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Found 24 results

  1. https://www.rockler.com/learn/Woodworking-Furniture-Joinery?fbclid=IwAR2Kaj03Ivy9n-kbwIklErbg7bqRSt-hPu-xQK07-DXKS1p3RPrMjAHU89Q What are the most popular furniture joints.pdf
  2. A good article on when and how to use biscuit joints. Glad to see someone else who does not believe the myth, "They are for alignment only and don't add any strength." https://www.wwgoa.com/article/using-a-biscuit-joiner/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=A6134 A_Biscuit_Joiner_Can_Be_Used_For_Almost_Anything.pdf
  3. I've got a closet in my spare bedroom (storage room) that I wanted to add another clothes hanger rod to. Among my scrap pieces I had two 1.25" diameter closet rod sections that together would be long enough, but neither was long enough on their own. The distance to span is roughly 22". This is a CNC-cut splice joint I came up with to solve the problem. Test cut on smaller scraps shown in the photos. I'm calling it my radial finger joint. Finished spliced rod now loaded with clothes and seems to be able to handle the weight with no complaint. If it does fail eve
  4. So just to get a little chatter going and I haven't ask one of these in a while, I thought today would be a good time. When you are doing or planning a woodworking project, what is your favorite part of the project? 1. Drawing a scale drawing 2. Building a prototype 3. Dimensioning the material 4. Layout 5. Joinery 6. Assembly 7. Sanding 8. Staining or finishing 9. Just seeing the end results!
  5. Yesterday I managed to extract myself from the busy life of Honey Do's and kids daily events and get a little time in the shop with our Claro Rocker. A week ago when I started laying out the arms ontop of the arm pads that are basically the top of the front legs, I realized I made a major mistake in my calculations for the arm rests to meet up at the proper height to the joint at the rear leg/backrest area. I was a full 1/4" too low, the joinery was not going to meet up where it was supposed to by my previously laid out joints. After much thinking and tinkering with ideas and layouts, I
  6. Here is a review of interesting joints (the good kind) that was sent to me. I hope it opens for you , it did for me. I never got to the end of it, just keeps going and going and going..........https://twitter.com/TheJoinery_jp Herb
  7. Good article on Lock Miter joints, applied to joints.   I was ready to spring for a bit until I saw the price.
  8. OK, OK, I'll start it. How do you make them? I've made some using an IncraJig and a router table with a straight bit. These worked well. I can probably make them with my SOB dovetail joining jig, but it's so complex, it makes my head hurt every time I use it . There was a video a couple of years ago about how to set up a guide on a table saw and dado blade. I used it once and it worked well and with little fussing. The idea was you set up an auxiliary miter gauge fence with a key that just fits the cut. Then use that key to offset the fe
  9. Since we have the best woodworks in the world right here, I have a question. I just took a job building a display case that will hang on the wall. The customer’s father was wounded in WWII in the South Pacific and apparently was to be part of a Japanese invasion force. He was carrying a silk double map of Honshu and this is the map that will be protected by the case. Side note: The map still has blood stains on it. Anyway, I’m thinking about a basic oak frame on all four sides with either glass or plexiglass on either side. Weight will be an issue because the map is 26” square. The map wil
  10. some months ago I used a big project to purchase a couple of pricey tools one was a milwaukee 18 volt circular saw. The weight took some getting used to as I was used to the old school heavy grade worm drive skillsaw. SO I've been using the thing. I gotta say I am really impressed. The prior experience I've had with cordless has all been bad. No power what power there is is fleeting and the batteries run down. They were awful so I didn't buy any. But I'd been reading lately that things have really improved. So I got one. Just one. The saw and two batter
  11. From the album: Dane Franco

  12. From the album: Dane Franco

  13. I was looking at some wood working sites and this came up. Don't know anything about it, it don't look strong. Anyone know how it was made?
  14. Last weekend the woodworking club had our annual seminar with Glen Huey of 360 Woodworking, previously of Popular Woodworking Magazine and custom furniture maker. He did demos of joint making, primarily dovetail and mortise and tenon variations. He recommend this book as his "bible" https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BPL7A309FJBR&coliid=I159ALHR7ZRP9R I got a copy and have been reading it. The first 60 or so pages are on wood properties and various joints. Not so much "how to do" but "what it looks like" with lots of var
  15. steven newman

    Full dovetails

    From the album: Shop Storage Dresser

    Details of the rest of the dovetails.
  16. steven newman

    1/2 dovetail

    From the album: Shop Storage Dresser

    Detail of the 1/2 dovetail. Top detail, showing the molded edge
  17. Think your dovetail and box joints won't come apart? My study of antiques says otherwise. But I have a solution to lock your dovetails and box joints permanently.This is my favorite woodworking tip and technique of all time. I hope you enjoy the video and find it helpful. I am looking forward to hearing feedback on experience and observations of these joints. Your friend in the shop-Todd A. Clippinger
  18. Picked this up from a friend on another site- http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21531/21531-h/21531-h.htm
  19. Well, got a center stile recut, as the first one was a 1/4" too short. Then cut a few grooves in it After taking a small hammer to the iron, to get it centered, again. Had it set a bit deep. You start at the far end and work your way backwards, until it quits cutting. Makes some nice curlie things jump out the side of the plane, too. Needed to size a couple panels to make the raised panels. While I do have the handsaws for this work, I don't have THAT much "Get-up-and-go" so A old, all metal Sears Craftsman circular saw did the work. Much faster than some olde pharte
  20. Ok got a few things done. One stile is now completed. Grooves and mortise cut, cut outs for the rails to snuggle into. GGrooves were cut with a Plough Plane From about 1860 or so. makes some nice curlies Got some mortises finshed up One for the bottom rail Top rail's mortise. Note a 45 degree cut? The rail will match this, will look like a mitered joint. The center Lock rail was a bit different Double tenons. Double 45s. Grooved on one side, will have a rebate on the other when things get put together. Checked the joint for square, then marked out for the teno
  21. I haven't made any box joints for a few years and had a project that I wanted to use them on. I have a very nice set of 2 Freud blades that make precision cuts. I set everything up and made a cut on scrap. Then used a digital mich to see how well it did. It measured o.30 and my precision cut wasn't so precision. I removed the blades, cleaned them and recut another one with the same results. Next I checked blade squareness vs miter and blade vs table. NO help. I disassembled my miter, readjusted to specs and tightened out any play. NO help. Then it dawned on me that I no longer have a belt dri
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