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Found 23 results

  1. A good article on when and how to use biscuit joints. Glad to see someone else who does not believe the myth, "They are for alignment only and don't add any strength." https://www.wwgoa.com/article/using-a-biscuit-joiner/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=A6134 A_Biscuit_Joiner_Can_Be_Used_For_Almost_Anything.pdf
  2. I've got a closet in my spare bedroom (storage room) that I wanted to add another clothes hanger rod to. Among my scrap pieces I had two 1.25" diameter closet rod sections that together would be long enough, but neither was long enough on their own. The distance to span is roughly 22". This is a CNC-cut splice joint I came up with to solve the problem. Test cut on smaller scraps shown in the photos. I'm calling it my radial finger joint. Finished spliced rod now loaded with clothes and seems to be able to handle the weight with no complaint. If it does fail eventually I'll report back. 4D
  3. So just to get a little chatter going and I haven't ask one of these in a while, I thought today would be a good time. When you are doing or planning a woodworking project, what is your favorite part of the project? 1. Drawing a scale drawing 2. Building a prototype 3. Dimensioning the material 4. Layout 5. Joinery 6. Assembly 7. Sanding 8. Staining or finishing 9. Just seeing the end results!
  4. Yesterday I managed to extract myself from the busy life of Honey Do's and kids daily events and get a little time in the shop with our Claro Rocker. A week ago when I started laying out the arms ontop of the arm pads that are basically the top of the front legs, I realized I made a major mistake in my calculations for the arm rests to meet up at the proper height to the joint at the rear leg/backrest area. I was a full 1/4" too low, the joinery was not going to meet up where it was supposed to by my previously laid out joints. After much thinking and tinkering with ideas and layouts, I finally came to the conclusion that I'll simply increase the height of the arm rest by adding a 1/4" block to raise up the arm rest. Since this is walnut, the newly added pad will be un-noticeable. In some regards these rockers are un-forgiving in errors, but in many regards these rockers are also very forgiving in the sense that this is in essence a sculpted work, so errors and mis-steps often times can be carved, shaped, and filed away or to blend, and in this case, it is a forgiving error/ Images below are not exciting, they simply show my modified pad glued up to the top of the front leg pad to increase the height of the arm rest. First image shows my pad glued up and secured with my quick grips just to get them in place. One thing I like to do is save sawn cut-outs from a piece I shape so we can use them as clamping cauls, you'll notice the blocks at the bottom of the shaped arm pad, they were initially cut out for the the preliminary shaping of the arm rest block, I held on to them to use as I clamp up the arm rest to the block, but I was also able to use them in this fix for clamping cauls. Next images show the clamps all in place on both arm rests pads. Unrelated to the arm rest FUBAR, are more images showing the preliminary shaping of the front leg seat joints. I rough and blend the joints in with a 4.5" right angle grinder. But first I need to secure the chair to my bench. Next I take to grinding the general shape of the joint. As it takes shape I'll then finish it up with a combination of my ROS and some files. Image below shows the joint blended and formed, no gaps in the glue joint either, this is a successful chair joint. To reach the other side of the joint, I need to position the chair on the floor, and brace it with my legs and feet, and work on the joint from a comfortable height as I sit. The joint is not finished, but it's coming along. I use the same technique as I did with the other side of the joint in images above. Thanks for following along, now contrary to popular propositions and laws being formed and voted on, I feel these are some "joints" we can all get behind!
  5. Here is a review of interesting joints (the good kind) that was sent to me. I hope it opens for you , it did for me. I never got to the end of it, just keeps going and going and going..........https://twitter.com/TheJoinery_jp Herb
  6. Good article on Lock Miter joints, applied to joints.   I was ready to spring for a bit until I saw the price.
  7. OK, OK, I'll start it. How do you make them? I've made some using an IncraJig and a router table with a straight bit. These worked well. I can probably make them with my SOB dovetail joining jig, but it's so complex, it makes my head hurt every time I use it . There was a video a couple of years ago about how to set up a guide on a table saw and dado blade. I used it once and it worked well and with little fussing. The idea was you set up an auxiliary miter gauge fence with a key that just fits the cut. Then use that key to offset the fence from the machine's rip fence. I tried it recently on that sewing machine box and by the time I got twenty or so cuts, the cumulative error was enough that it didn't fit all that well. My dado set up was not a precise fractional amount, I think. I have some friends that made a jig that you wind a threaded rod with a nx16 thread so that every turn advanced the guide 1/16" I don't make them often enough to justify a couple of days making a jig. And I call finger joints and box joints the same thing. Apparently, Stick does not. ?
  8. Since we have the best woodworks in the world right here, I have a question. I just took a job building a display case that will hang on the wall. The customer’s father was wounded in WWII in the South Pacific and apparently was to be part of a Japanese invasion force. He was carrying a silk double map of Honshu and this is the map that will be protected by the case. Side note: The map still has blood stains on it. Anyway, I’m thinking about a basic oak frame on all four sides with either glass or plexiglass on either side. Weight will be an issue because the map is 26” square. The map will be suspended by gold clips inside and a gold chain to hang the case. Here’s the question. Because of the weight the case has to be strong so what type of joinery on the corners? It is too narrow for dovetails or box joints.
  9. some months ago I used a big project to purchase a couple of pricey tools one was a milwaukee 18 volt circular saw. The weight took some getting used to as I was used to the old school heavy grade worm drive skillsaw. SO I've been using the thing. I gotta say I am really impressed. The prior experience I've had with cordless has all been bad. No power what power there is is fleeting and the batteries run down. They were awful so I didn't buy any. But I'd been reading lately that things have really improved. So I got one. Just one. The saw and two batteries ( two because I still didn't have faith that they had any staying power) and the charger. Well I ended up never using that second battery but one time. The thing is rugged and powerful. One time I ran the battery down on a single job. I was cutting 6" wide dados in several 6 x 6 in beams to use as interlocking joinery. I sliced hundreds of cuts and then used a chisel to make the dadoes. Other than that one time I've never run a battery down. I never noticed any flagging of power in the tool. So now I guess I'm sold on cordless. So I just got a milwaukee half inch drill / driver. And playing with that a little I am very happy with the tool's capability and power.
  10. Dane Franco

    Walnut Chair Joinery 2

    From the album: Dane Franco

  11. Dane Franco

    Walnut Chair Joinery 1

    From the album: Dane Franco

  12. I was looking at some wood working sites and this came up. Don't know anything about it, it don't look strong. Anyone know how it was made?
  13. Last weekend the woodworking club had our annual seminar with Glen Huey of 360 Woodworking, previously of Popular Woodworking Magazine and custom furniture maker. He did demos of joint making, primarily dovetail and mortise and tenon variations. He recommend this book as his "bible" https://www.amazon.com/dp/1565233697/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BPL7A309FJBR&coliid=I159ALHR7ZRP9R I got a copy and have been reading it. The first 60 or so pages are on wood properties and various joints. Not so much "how to do" but "what it looks like" with lots of variations. The next 50 pages are on various "sub-assemblies" -- using the joints listed before, how to do things like doors, drawers, and cases. The last 200+ pages are all sorts of furniture designs. Each is covered in two pages that lists various style options (Shaker, Danish modern, colonial, etc), a few references for published plans and an exploded drawing showing joinery and critical dimensions. If you are like me and have a general idea of what and how to build but are looking for some ideas to push you in the right direction,this is quite the ticket. While probably not for the rank beginner, for those with some experience to look at a drawing and know where to start, this is a great book.
  14. steven newman

    Full dovetails

    From the album: Shop Storage Dresser

    Details of the rest of the dovetails.
  15. steven newman

    1/2 dovetail

    From the album: Shop Storage Dresser

    Detail of the 1/2 dovetail. Top detail, showing the molded edge
  16. Think your dovetail and box joints won't come apart? My study of antiques says otherwise. But I have a solution to lock your dovetails and box joints permanently.This is my favorite woodworking tip and technique of all time. I hope you enjoy the video and find it helpful. I am looking forward to hearing feedback on experience and observations of these joints. Your friend in the shop-Todd A. Clippinger
  17. Picked this up from a friend on another site- http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21531/21531-h/21531-h.htm
  18. Well, got a center stile recut, as the first one was a 1/4" too short. Then cut a few grooves in it After taking a small hammer to the iron, to get it centered, again. Had it set a bit deep. You start at the far end and work your way backwards, until it quits cutting. Makes some nice curlie things jump out the side of the plane, too. Needed to size a couple panels to make the raised panels. While I do have the handsaws for this work, I don't have THAT much "Get-up-and-go" so A old, all metal Sears Craftsman circular saw did the work. Much faster than some olde pharte by hand. Laid out some lines to start making the bevels for the panels One inch in from each edge. There is also a stop line on the edge to show ABOUT where to stop the bevel at. A Stanley Four Square #5-1/4 Junior jack was set a bit deep. The trick is to do the end grain ends first. at a diagonal to the grain. Going from "high" to low". After a few minutes of scrapping away We have a decent bevel. Do the other end grain end, then set up for the long grain sides And repeat until all four edges have a bevel. I cleaned things up with a low angle block plane, too. Now, I do need to make a rebate on the back side of these panels, so.. A Wards #78 was setup to do the rebates. Same as the beveled sides, end grain first, then the long grain sides. Time for a test fit, or two? Well there is one fitted. Took a bit of trimming to get this one to fit just right. Re-marked the second panel, from lessons learned on the first one. After awhile, and a lot of this stuff on the floor Igor had to sweep the floor four times this morning! Grumbling about wanting a raise, too.... Well, I got the second one a little bit better made, so all the parts can go together Not too bad? The joints will get draw-bored tight, and wedged. Doubt IF I will need any glue. Top half still needs a rebate to house the screen/storm window. Then a coat of primer then paint, then hung in the doorway. So far, so good.... Who knows, maybe I will get some 5/4 stock, and make a new backdoor as well? First things first... Lunch and a shower, then off to my "Day Job" at 1900 tonight. Work the next two nights 1900-0710hrs
  19. Ok got a few things done. One stile is now completed. Grooves and mortise cut, cut outs for the rails to snuggle into. GGrooves were cut with a Plough Plane From about 1860 or so. makes some nice curlies Got some mortises finshed up One for the bottom rail Top rail's mortise. Note a 45 degree cut? The rail will match this, will look like a mitered joint. The center Lock rail was a bit different Double tenons. Double 45s. Grooved on one side, will have a rebate on the other when things get put together. Checked the joint for square, then marked out for the tenons. Not too bad, so far. Need to cut a few tenons next. Then locate WHERE a middle stile will go. Make that part, and measure for a couple raised panels. Might do one big panel, rip it to size, and have a book-matched panel for the bottomof the door. So far, mainly hand tools...LOTS of them. List of "Toys" so far: Mortise Chisels 3/16" and 1/4" Firmer chisels BIG hammer, as the wood mallet just won't drive the Mortise chisels Couple of squares Marking/cutting guage Plough plane, 1/4' x 1/4" grooves Low angle Block plane, #1455 Gents Saw, crosscut/miter cuts Backsaw, filed rip. For rip cuts Full sized handsaw, 8ppi crosscut, cut the boards to length. ( cheated on some, got out the Craftsman 7-1/4 circular saw) Tape measure, of course. Might come in handy? Stay tuned, the CUSSING is just beginning...
  20. I haven't made any box joints for a few years and had a project that I wanted to use them on. I have a very nice set of 2 Freud blades that make precision cuts. I set everything up and made a cut on scrap. Then used a digital mich to see how well it did. It measured o.30 and my precision cut wasn't so precision. I removed the blades, cleaned them and recut another one with the same results. Next I checked blade squareness vs miter and blade vs table. NO help. I disassembled my miter, readjusted to specs and tightened out any play. NO help. Then it dawned on me that I no longer have a belt drive saw, instead I now have direct drive saw. I checked the run out on the blades there was my problem Each one had the same problem due to the motor bearings having a tiny bit of play. Oh well I guess I'll set up a box joint jig to use on my router. Sure wish I had my old huge cast iron sears belt drive. Just did't have the room for it.
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