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  1. I have this set for a couple years and we have about 8 of them at the furniture bank. This is a great price and don't forget to file registration for the lifetime service agreement (that also covers batteries)
  2. Does anyone use a drill doctor? I need a part and can't find one locally or on line> Model #750SP. The part # I need is #PPO1426PF, sharping tube. drilldr>com is not a good e-mail, it is up for sale. Preston
  3. I am almost embarrassed to say I have gotten by with a Harbor Freight table top drill press for 5-6 years and as I advance my wood working it just isn't good enough anymore. It is difficult to change speeds. The chuck is too wobbly. The 2 1/2" stroke is just too short. In fact nothing about it is good enough. I need to be protective of floor space but I am willing to go to a floor model if a suitable table top model isn't out there. Suggestions?
  4. Spent a bit of cash today...found out I'm a bit out of shape for walking 6 blocks round trip...cramps in me toes, cramp in the left calf....NOT a nice walk home.....at least I didn't fall flat on the sidewalk, this time So..what did just over $9 get me? Used to be $10....price was lowered to $7. The 2 extra bits were $2....then clean things up Top one is a Russel Jennings #9 (9/16") Bottom one is a James Swan # 5-1/2 (3/8") No idea about who made either the brace, or the #6 (3/8") bit... It did clean up nice enough.. It uses a thumbscrew to clamp the bit in place. Not too bad of a day?
  5. I have a buncha shelf pin holes to drill, and decided to start with a little shop project: the vertical mirror guide. I'm sure you've seen the idea. But I'll bore you with a picture anyway because it's...expected. The key for me was finding a really cheap mirror. Now what I found (link below) is really a plastic reflective surface, and if you ever see your face in it, you'll be off to your dermatologist. Assuming they're open. Anyway the plastic is marginal as a mirror, but more than sufficient as a drill guide. And fun to see how many reflections of a drill bit you can create at different angles. I got the mirrors for about $2.50 each, right in my range. Mounted them (DS tape) on scrap plywood, used rubber cement and a piece of cloth for a hinge. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYXQ7E8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. I've used the Makita drill set and know it's a workhorse for around $240. Is there anything truly comparable on the less than $240 side? I prefer Dewalt but not familiar with the new stuff...
  7. I got tired of having my quick changers bits and tips in different places so I put 'em all together in one handy dandy little box with a magnet closure. Plus I made a little awl with a tungsten ( very very hard) point from a TIG welding electrode. The little short ones are held in place with magnets the drills don't need it.
  8. Restoring a Walker Turner (Rockwell) 20" Drill Press Model 70-400 Model Number: Labeled 70-400 but actually a 70-410 because it is has an MT3 taper Type: Drill Head Only Serial Number: 1350495 (1964) Spindle Size: MT3 Power Feed: No Slow Speed: No Number Of Belts: 1 Date of Restoration: June to August 2018 The previous owner installed a single phase 120VAC motor from a Jet drill. He also gave me the motor that was installed when he bought it, but I dont think it is an original WT motor. It is 3 phase but has no label. I installed a Baldor 3HP single phase 120VAC motor (because I like big motors). I dont have 3 phase service, but I am in the process of building a rotary phase converter. I will be restoring a Powermatic 1150 drill press in the future. A few years ago I restored a DeWalt table saw. It still works great. To disassemble the drill: 1. Start disassembly: Remove the chuck Remove the belt cover Release the belt tension Slip the belt off the motor pulley Remove the large handle that raises and lowers the chuck NOTE: I tried to remove one of the 3 arms and ended up damaging it with a pipe wrench. It refused to come out. The 3 black balls came off easily. Remove both side plates (Where the power feed would be attached) Remove on/off switch assembly Remove the left 2 bolts holding the motor to the motor bracket (You cant get to them after the drill is layed on its left side) Ensure the bottom collar is clamped tighly onto the column (To prevent head from falling to the bottom of the column) Remove the huge nut on the right side that clamps the head to the column Remove the lever that raises and lowers the head Remove the assembly that the lever is attached to (4 bolts) Tighten bolt so the head will not swivel 2. Continue disassembly: Lay drill on its left side Remove motor Remove motor bracket from head (1 bolt) Remove column base Slide column out of head 3. Prepare to remove the quill: Remove chuck depth adjusting bolt Remove front knob, assembly, and set screw (This holds the chuck in position) Use a magnet to remove the inner piece Use a flatblade to remove the 2 large screws on the front Use a flatblade to remove the 2 inner pieces Use a magnet to remove 2 more inner pieces 4. Remove the quill: Remove the top head cap (3 bolts) (This might be difficult. Be careful not to break it.) Remove the belt Loosen the set screw on the pulley DANGER: The quill might fall out of the head when the next 2 steps are performed. NOTE: The large spring that holds the quill up will uncoil on the next step. Remove the large lever and assembly that raises and lowers the chuck Pull the gear shaft out of the head Remove the quill and spindle (You may need to knock it out from the top with a piece of wood) (The pulley will not move. Only the shaft will come out) 5. Remove the 2 quill bearings: Remove the spacer from the spindle (2 set screws) Remove the spindle from the quill using a piece of wood and a big a** vise opened at the correct width so the shaft will slip out of the quill and bearing assembly (This is difficult. It takes a lot of force. Place the piece of wood on top of the shaft, on the spline end, and hit the wood with a BIG hammer. The 2 bearings should remain inside the quill) Beat the 2 bearings out of the quill with a brass rod 6. Remove the pulley assembly from the head: Use a long piece of wood (12" long) to knock the pulley assembly out of the head (Place the wood piece in the area where the quill was located. Mark the wood piece before you hit it, to indicate how much it moves. This is difficult. It takes a lot of force to knock the bearing cap out of the head.) NOTE: This pulley assembly consists of a bearing sitting on top of the pulley, and a bearing and cap on the bottom of the pulley. The previous step should have knocked the cap out of the head, thus enabling the entire assembly to be removed. The outside diameter of this cap is approximately 2 1/2".) 7. Remove the 2 pulley bearings: Use a vise to press the inner sleeve in both directions to remove the top and bottom pulley bearings 8. Clean it and paint it: Use a wire brush head (one on a drill and one on a bench grinder) to remove the old paint Use a Dremel to remove the old paint around the 2 badges Paint it. I used Rustoleum Satin Sage spray paint 9. I cant find a parts manual for the 70-400 20" drill. But I believe the later 1100 20" drills use most of the same parts. My drill press had these 4 bearings: Bearing on top of pulley: Norma 205PP - Same as SKF 6205ZZ Bearing just below pulley: Norma 205PP - Same as SKF 6205ZZ Bearing inside top of quill: MRC 204SF - Same as SKF 6204Z Bearing inside bottom of quill: SKF 170372 (1-70372) 10. Cost: 70-400 Used from craigslist.........................................$250.00 I bought these 3 parts in June 2018 from wtsmllc@juno.com (The Walker Turner Serviced Machinery LLC) (These 3 parts arent sold anywhere else that I know of) P/N 70372 Double Row RBI Sealed - Special Bore Double Sealed.......$ 64.95 P/N 80857 Spacer (required for above bearing)......................$ 2.50 P/N 3600 V-Belt standard direct drive 5-speed pulley config 61.5"..$ 23.50 S&H USA.............................................................$ 7.40 Total for above 3 items.............................................$ 98.35 3 Bearings 6204ZZ 6205ZZ 6205ZZ (from popular auction website)......$ 25.95 Paint (Rustoleum Satin Sage)........................................$ 31.20 New Baldor 3HP motor from craigslist................................$150.00 Grand Total.........................................................$653.85 Was it worth all the work? You bet!
  9. A few weeks back, I posted a thread about a pick that included a Black & Decker corded drill kit. I also have alluded to the fact I may have a problem when it comes to the number of corded drills in my possession. Since the temperature is dropping and we alternate between white-out snow then momentary sunshine and now darkness, I thought I would present this thread for your entertainment, amusement, amazement and harassment. Enjoy the show. WARNING: Proceeding beyond this point is at your own risk. The content of this thread is not advised for those with rational thought processes or hoarding phobias. Some restrictions apply. Void where prohibited. Must be 18 to enter. So it began one December 7th many years ago for my 17th (maybe 18th??) birthday I think. I received my first power-tool. A Skil, 3/8" VS Model 569 drill. Who knew this would eventually lead to an addiction. I did replace the swithc once several years ago. Shortly there-after, my dad also gave me a 1/4" Mall Model 143 drill that had belonged to my grand-father. It has to be from the late 1940's to early 1950's. The original cord finally disintegrated. I replaced it 35+ years ago with the current cord which now needs replaced. I need to search out cord strain reliefs although the spark plug boots i used to use worked pretty well. These were my primary drills for years both at home and occasionally in my work life. The Mall has a piece missing in the replaceable handle portion which is the way I inherited it. That nugget of information is relevant later on in this drill dynasty. Next up is my Black & Decker 1/2" VS, Model 7210. It's story begins in the first JD Dealership I worked. That was in 1973. The drill was already in service and likely had been purchased in the late 1960's from Grainger's. The dealer eventually closed so we parted ways for a year or so. A new dealer reopened the dealership and I was recruited as the Service Manager Low and behold the drill and I was reunited as most of the tooling from the old dealership had been purchased. Some time later, one of the "rookie" mechanics pushed this drill beyond its limits. The armature windings separated from the commutator bar. A replacement was needed immediately and as luck had it, the Mac Tool Rep had just began carrying a new line called Makita. We purchased a 1/2", VSR double insulated drill upon his recommendation. We sent the B&D in for repair evaluation estimate. The cost to replace the armature, brushes and refurb the drill came back more than the new Makita so this drill got tossed back in the cabinet. Several years later during a clean-up session the drill was set out to be trashed. I asked if I could have it and was granted the request. It laid in a box at home for a number of years. I finally made a trip to the old B&D Service Center in Indy, bought an armature, couple set of brushes for around $35 at the time. Finally had to replace the cord a few years back. While doing some remodeling work at my daughters, either my ex SIL or oldest grandson apparently dropped the drill on the "nib" on the upper back handle breaking it in the mounting screw/rear bearing housing. Calling B&D/DeWalt Service Centers all over the country yielded no parts available. I eventually was able to locate a "parts donor" drill but not before lots of searching which leads to a long tale yet to come. I have the original manual and dead-man handle for the drill also. It was and still is a great drill...low RPM and lots of torque. In the midst of the above I acquired this old Sioux, 1/4" in-line drill. It was given to me by a former mechanic. Probably from the 50's. The switch was bad as was the original cord (dry rot). It is the same frame and motor unit as the old Sioux hard-seat grinder. Instead of the angle seat driver head, Sioux offered an alternative drive head. I came upon a used hard seat grinder the Mac Tool Rep had traded for. The gears were bad, but the was switch good...gave a couple bucks for it. Replaced the switch. This drill still gets a lot of use running a carbon cleaning brush and other wire wheel attachments. Probably will need a new cord in the not to distant future. Somewhere in the 90's, I had a need for a D-handle 1/2" drill; something that would do heavier duty work than the 1/2" B&D. My wife bought me this Craftsman for Christmas one year. VSR model. Actually my first reversible corded drill. I primarily have used it to run a paddle to mix drywall compound and thin set mortar. Maybe have drilled a couple dozen 5/8" dia. holes in steel with a twist bit. The (3) on the right followed. The left one is a 1/4" Dunlap made for Sears; circa late 40's early 50's; bought at a flea market for a couple of bucks; it works fine, just needs disassembled, cleaned, new gear grease and the aluminum body polished; The middle is another Mall 143; another flea market find for $3; I originally bought it to use for parts my old 143 however it works great, so again just disassemble, clean, re-lube and polish. The one on the right is an old Montgomery Ward given to me by my late FIL. He got it in a box of crap treasures at an auction. Obviously needs a cord and the normal clean & re-lube. I've had it for years; just need to find round-to-its for all three. Close up view of the Dunlap tag. Also a Did just a little preliminary buffing to see how it would polish up. The Mall 143 tag. The "three amigos", oppoosite side on the far right. You can see they remain in their natural wild state...now where are those round-tu-its? Now back to the quest finding a replacement handle section for the B&D 1/2" VS. So I watched flea markets, yards sales, and even a few auctions to no avail finding a parts donor to repair this drill. Even eBay was coming up empty. Finally a hit on eBay...I won an auction for a 1/2" (one owner). If I recall about $14 with the shipping. However, when I got the drill, it was so pristine, I couldn't bring myself to cannibalize it. It had the dead-man handle but the cord had been replaced. It's the one on the left; I'm pretty sure it's a U-126 like the one on the right. Only single speed, but a very nice drill. The one on the right came later in the parts quest. Found it at a flea market for $8 with some weird coupling attachment in place of the chuck, but pristine other-wise. I bought a Jacobs chuck from H-F. $10 less 20% coupon so $8 for a new chuck bringing the total to $16. The parts quest continued...the one on the far right I believe to be a model 7120 although might be an 1161; both are 3/8" VS models. Anyways won that bid on eBay as a parts only drill...if I recall, it was ~$9 with shipping; might have been less...when I received it, as stated it did not work. Began disassembling to swap the handles and noticed a loose wire in the switch and wires not in the right locations; straighten all that out, and it works fine...so the quest rolls on. The one on the left is a Model U-100, 1/4", single speed; a little different rear handle design without the nub, but interchangeable. Picked that one up for a couple bucks...did the normal disassembly/clean-up; works great...the quest continues... While I continued to watch eBay, after two purchases all of a sudden these style drills began popping up like mushrooms. Seems every flea market I had tried before now were crawling with them... These 2 were next; a 7110 I think, 3/8" single speed in the original metal B&D box for $5. Another U-100 for $3 but needed a cord. H-F has 10' neon orange and sometimes green extension cords on sale for ~$4 from time-to-time. I keep a supply of them as replacement cords; far cheaper than actual replacement cords. Both of these work great and needed minimal clean-up. Next in the quest to find a handle were the two on the right. Finally, success. I gave $3 for the pair. Robbed the handle off the top one. The bottom one while it will run, the front bearing is shot. However I could take these two and make one good usable drill should I need an extra. Unfortunately, by this time the disease had over taken me so.................................... At one of my favorite flea infestations, I stumbled on this Skil 599. Now knowing how hard finding replacement parts for the B&D had been, I justified this purchase figuring the cord and switch would interchange with my first drill if needed. Since it was only $5. As dumb luck would have it, this is a hammer, scraper, drill VSR, 3/8". It all works so.... The drill on the right beckoned me and since I didn't own a plain ole, 3/8" VSR and it was only $5, I succumbed. Knowing how hard parts might be to get for it, the left one appeared at a yard sale. It was in a bucket, chuck down with about an 2" of water...well the cord & switch is probably good and for $2...dang the luck, it cleaned up pretty nice except for a little erosion on the nose housing, works like a champ so... This one in the original case although missing some of the accessories..still needs refurbed when I find some of those round tuits so... This orphan needed a good home and for $8 in the original case with accessories and then.... This trio actually preceded the two sets above. The one on the far right is a U-203; kinda' rare; 1/4" 2 speed. I use it a lot with various brushes to do cleaning and polishing. A slightly different version of the U-100 in the middle, then I'm not sure of the model on the left, but a 3/8" VS. Of course when the first B&D 1/2" went down, I needed an immediate, budget friendly replacement so H-F to the rescue with this 1/2" VSR model....with a coupon it was $24 and some change with tax. It works great and have used it to mix thin set and drywall compound also. So.... It all started when this drill handle failed....so....... There is one more to this stable but current weather conditions prevent me from moving stuff out to get to the cabinet. It's an old Montgomery Ward (I think), D handle with a 1/2" pipe dead man, 5/8" chuck that belonged to my grand-dad I inherited when my dad passed. That drill cost me $200 about 50 years ago. I'll update this saga with it's unique story in the future. These of course are just my corded drills and does not include any of the cordless, screw-guns or drill presses. Once I get over my shame for this post and ya'll recover from the shock and trauma of reading this post, maybe I'll entertain you in another show. Just so you know, I have put back many other drills to allow others around the world to the joy of owning a corded drill if only for a moment. Assuming you remained conscious to this point, thanks for following along. BTW, if you were counting you should have come up with 26 drills total. I may have a problem???
  10. Folks, I am in the market for a set of brad points. Namely in the smaller size sets, say from 1/4" to 1/2" so I guess that would be a set containing four bits? 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and a 1/2". Or something in that manner. I am looking for very sharp clean holes, which all brad points will do for a period of time, but this is what separates poor from great, sharpness retention. If you use brad points, what do you use? Thanks folks!
  11. Had a bit of Holiday Cash to spend.....headed to an Antique Mall in Springfield, OH.....called the "Heart of OHIO".....and spent a few hours walking around....turned down a Stanley 45, type 2/3....was "only" $200 + tax..... Spent about $15 + tax for two items... $8 for the Keen Kutter No. 104, 10" sweep brace...handle had a dab of black paint.. Wood is Walnut. The two metal bands are Pewter....fancy chuck.. Able to use even normal twist drill bits...gives me two such chucks....Millers Falls also had this chuck...for the 1050-1054 series.. The other half of the pickings? Turned down an all-metal one, because it was missing the bolt in it's handle....the bolt on this one? Interesting....Compared to the one I have been using... Methinks the lever one is a Stanley...the newest one is a smaller version of.. At least these look better than the others in the til... "Plastic Fantastic.." I'll stick with the wood ones. There are at least 8 bays in the place...along with display cases down the middle of the aisles...plan for at least 1/2 a day just to walk around in the place... Was a nice day....
  12. I would like to know what the purpose of this tool is, and how it's used. Thanks for any help!
  13. I stopped by a yard sale this morning and picked up 7 braces, 3 clamps, a Red Head eggbeater drill and a boxful of new Schlage hinges, handles and miscellaneous hardware for $30. The box of hardware isn't shown. All of the braces will be shipped to the country of Malawi where we have a missions group. The Malawi men are amazing carpenters and braces are very desirable.
  14. Picked up a 20 volt drill yesterday off of Craigslist. It was still sealed in the box. Paid $40.00 for it because I paid that much for a replacement 19V battery a while back. He had another one that was opened and charged up. It features a pulse mode instead of a hammer mode. I left it in the box, thinking I might give it as a Christmas gift. I though it was made in Germany, but it was from China.
  15. Well, yard sales are over around here, until next spring.....there is a store downtown that has a basement section...called Junk Rescue... Finally had a little extra in my pocket.....decided to buy a few items... Sooo, THIS is what $20 + Tax will get ya.... Might need a little clean up....Chisel? Sold as "Clearcut" 1-1/4" wide Firmer Chisel....that rusty gear box? On the now cleaned crank handle.....Defiance...Made in USA...need a few drops of oil to get things moving.... Yep, two bits for a dollar.....inflation? They did clean up nicely.. Three are 4/16", one is a 5/16" Left a few things down there, but....save those for another day.
  16. Bought this at the local resale for 3 bucks. It had ugly rubbery green paint with nicely brown painted rosewood handles. I stripped all of that and did a complete disassemble, clean, and grease of all parts. The crank handle had a crack that I welded and re-ground. My final paint scheme of Oliver tractor green and black may not be a correct original but I like the way it turned out. I have a little green residue to clean from the gear teeth to call this one done. Does anyone happen to have a similar parts drill that would have a protective cover for the level glass? It is unfortunately AWOL!
  17. On the way back from the Doctor's office.....was feeling good about the arm...noticed a sign that said BARN SALE///my kind of sales got out of the van....I could smell the rust...but where? Nothing for me IN the barn....walked around to the side....ahh...RUST! Only had $7 in the pocket....had to picke things over....didn't NEED two more Millers Falls No. 120 breast drills ( got one now)nor a few other things..... Hmmmm...a Minty Craftsman eggbeater drill? $5? Sold.. Cap was tight...only needed a little oil to get things purring along.. Decent label, even had a drill bit inside, along with the one they left in the chuck... Gear box has a Millers Falls feel to it....might be a No. 78? 1971-79? I think I can find some use for it... Twas a very good morning....
  18. A few smaller toys.. 6" square for "scale". Pliers on the right are just pot metal castings, with a loose rivet....not even good tweezers This drill bit? At one time, I had a string full of cutters for this thing....all I think I have left is this 13/16" cutter. As for the last item...built by an importer of straight razors... A Mr. H ( Hermann) Boker & Co. of Germany. One half was "pierced" to let the other half through, then they were pinned together... When the jaws are closed up, profile is a hex shape. Tips of the handles have a "finger curve". May just set these aside....
  19. First off, I am not cheap,.....merely frugal... Picked a few things today, spent about $8.50.... I have a complete Metric set of these 3/8" drive sockets. My son needed a set of SAE Deep well sockets. $5 Original price was $1.99, yard sale price was $0.50 . I will use these more to clean up any "details" a beading plane may leave. NO, I do NOT carve... Bag #1, and.. Dollar for the two of them, gave me nine hinges....only Bag#2 had screws, though...wound up with three styles, three each.. I wonder where I can use these.... Next, sitting UNDER those two bag was this thingy Did not see the chuck key anywhere...drat. A 1/4" drill bit will not fit in that chuck. marked as George A. Terry, of Buffalo, NY. More for working on MAC aircraft...might make some use out of it The Boss spent way more than I did....oh well.
  20. In today's Email.....Paul Sellers was doing a review of a new drill from Aldi's.....18v Lithium ion. Seemed very pleased with it. Cost him about 24 pounds ( English money). Seems to think it will do the same as his DeWalt 18v. Seem to be about the same size. I guess I will have to keep a eye out around this side of the "pond" and see what they look like. Just a heads up...
  21. Here is an interesting video of what a woodworker can do when necessity calls. Herb
  22. I have converted my drill press to variable speed using a 3-phace motor and a VFD. I have a digital speed readout using a Hall Effect sensor and a magnet on the quill shaft pulley. Right now, I have a speed range of ~60 to 2650 RPMs. Will this be adequate for most woodworking tasks? I still have a couple of changes using the step-pulleys but I haven't measured the speeds available.
  23. Went and bought the latch today. And even some holders. The holders had bolts,, need to go and buy some screws for them. About like the "tabs" you turn to replace a screen in the screen door. Will adapt them.. So, I got out that little No.6 eggbeater, and drilled some pilot holes. Had to use the smallest #1 Phillips screwdriver I had handy to drive four screws... I think this will just have to do. i did try to get a better picture of that lid. Camera kept trying to say it is yellow.....adjusted photo to show it more like what it really is in colour.. The only sap wood I had in the shop was either Cherry or Walnut. Might have gotten a little of each. Cherry heartwood for the center stripe.
  24. Well, determined that something in the wall had chewed through the wires to the porch light. Not wanting to go digging into said wall.....decided to go around the problem. Length of the better kind of E-Cord, a handy box, and a single pole switch were picked up. Decided to move the light fixture to the north a bit, to get away from the Gazebo's top. Placed it right above the back door, where it is UNDER the overhang of the roof. Snipped off the fancy end of the cord. Running from a wall outlet up to the handybox......and fight to get the wire through it. Made a short loop and then hooked the switch up. Black wire to the switch. Big 1/2" "D" handle heavy duty drill ( NOT about to use a brace & bit up there) with a 16" long 1/2" drill bit. Made a mark about half way between the door casing and the ceiling. Drilled straight through to the outside of the wall. Pushed the cut end of the cord through the hole. Things were going way too easy.......hmmm. A few staples to hold the cord in place. Went outside, and put a ladder up. Location looked GOOD! ( bad sign) Got the light fixture down from it's old spot....forgot to check something....wired the fixture in place. Assembled the Jelly Jar fixture onto the wall....went in to get a good bulb......wait for it....went to screw the bulb into the fixture......nothing to screw into......WTH?????? Well, left this mess un-plugged for tonight. Will have to go to Lowes or Wallie World tomorrow and BUY a new jelly jar fixture. #@#$$#@###@!!!. Just KNEW something was going way too good. maybe tomorrow, I can switch out the two fixtures, and THEN maybe, just maybe...have a back porch light that actually works. Somedays, ya just need to stay in bed....
  25. Well, yesterday was the 75 cent Push drill, Buck Rogers No.100 Today's little drive about.. Price sticker says $2 Stamped as a Made in USA PEXTO. Almost minty, very little rust spots to brush out. Has "PEXTO" stamped there, inside an oval. Chuck is a "Holdall" style. Jaws still have their springs, and work jut fine. Wood appears to be a Rosewood. Might be Walnut, but it is full of black streaks in the grain. remains of a grayish label on the sweep handle. This is an 8" sweep brace. Has a good ratcheting action. There are, though, three phillips headed screws to hold the top knob in place. Not too hateful, for $2? Kind of a slow weekend...
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