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Dining Room Sideboard


DAB

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i have no idea.  it's actually 3 pieces, then attached the top piece (2" thick), then attached the end panel and hung the doors.  likely weighs over 200 pounds assembled.  it's not going anywhere.  top was scribed to the wall.  that was fun.  haul top up to house, scribe it.  take back down to shop (100 yards away), sand to line.  back to house, note any places that need more sanding.  back to shop, check final fit.  back to shop for finishing.....it's like work!

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45 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

Can you please post your design so that others can benefit.

 

 

as i noted in the coffee table thread, i don't have any designs that are postable.  i've given overall dimensions, you can adjust to suit your needs.

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8 minutes ago, Joeb41 said:

very nice job! That oak top is outstanding. What did you use for stain?

i think the stain was a custom blend to match the nearby dining table.  1/2 of one color, 1/2 of another color.  i don't recall the 2 colors, sorry.  one was too red, the other was too brown, but mixed together, it was close enough.

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30 minutes ago, DAB said:

 

as i noted in the coffee table thread, i don't have any designs that are postable.  i've given overall dimensions, you can adjust to suit your needs.

So, I'm not the only one here who works off of a pencil sketch on a post-it note! Usually, I'm adjusting on the fly. Sometimes it bites me in the butt, but it usually turns out ALL GOOD!

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14 minutes ago, Michael Thuman said:

If you could please share overall dimensions and something else like the door frames are W x H and made from 3/4 x 2 stock.  That would take me a long way toward creating a drawing of  your creation.

 

I think I see some inspiration for Michael coming from your original post Douglas...

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1 hour ago, Michael Thuman said:

If you could please share overall dimensions and something else like the door frames are W x H and made from 3/4 x 2 stock.  That would take me a long way toward creating a drawing of  your creation.

 

 

original post has the dimensions.  i'm pretty sure the rails and stiles on the doors are 2-1/2" wide, allowing for a 1/2" dado for the panel.

 

i was discussing this topic with my wife last night, and noted that the problem with a plan is that a laborer is confined to that exact project.  they do not know how to change dimensions on one part and know how that will affect other parts of the project.  they do not see how important proportions are, much less how narrowing or widening an opening will affect the shelf or drawer construction. 

 

a competent craftsman can see a pleasing piece, see the worth and beauty and utility of it, and figure out how to fill a space in his house with a similar project to meet a need of his.

 

so if you want to draft a set of plans for this, knock yourself out.  i will note that behind the far left set of doors are three pull out drawers for wine and booze.  the other doors hide shelves for flatware.  i'll bet you know that your cannot use the same type of hinges for each opening and expect the drawers to work properly.

 

and if someone didn't have 96" of space for such a sideboard, but only had say 60", he'd have to know how to adjust the plan to only have 4 doors (odd numbers of doors look weird).

 

and if you were to visit my house and see this piece in person, you would notice that the rails and stiles are out of continuous pieces of lumber, the grain jumps across the doors, and the vertical stiles that adjoin one another are from the same piece of wood.  little details that a laborer would not consider.

 

so knowing how to make components, how to make a cabinet frame, how to make a door, how to make a drawer, those are skills to learn and master, then you can combine those skills into a wide variety of projects.  and truth be told, most projects are just a box.

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Thanks sorry to bug you so much I would build this in Cherry for our house  and now that I have some basic dimensions I think I can do it.  Also the detail on the inside is critical.

I would think the stile and rail width is probably a bit narrower than the drawer height but I think I get it now thanks.

 

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its actually made up of 3 cabinets, all the same size, resting on a common base (another trick to discuss).  for cost savings and time savings, they are made of pre-finshed maple plywood, exposed edges are covered with heat glued on banding.  same for the shelves and drawers (mitered corners with biscuits).  those were built, set on the leveled sub-base (more plywood) that was scribed to the un-even floor, screwed together and to the sub-base and to the wall studs.  the top was then set on top, scribed to the wavy wall, and screwed to the frame from inside.  the end panel (just the exposed end) and the doors are all made the same way, 2-1/2" wide stock, created the dados and tenons on the table saw.  likewise the panels were also created on the table saw (this project does not require a router!).  our baseboards are 6 inches high, so the sub-base is 6-1/2 high, so the frame can be attached to the wall and rest above the top of the baseboard.

 

it looks like a simple project, but there are a lot of little details to keep track of as you go along.  i made a panel sled for the table saw so i could safely make the center panels.  i think i tilted the blade 20 degrees.

 

wood choice, door design details, overall sizes, interior fit out....all options you can change to suit your needs.  as usual, the shelves are adjustable on metal pins.

 

i'm not trying to be a jerk, but as the quote at the top of the page by Maloof says, it's impossible to create fully detailed plans for his chairs, and that holds true to other projects as well.  but if you learn the basics, you can make anything.

 

so get some cheap wood, go make a sample door, make a sample drawer.  the knowledge you gain from doing that will be worth the cost of the lumber.  there are plenty here that will help you and others out as best we can.

 

and lastly:  work safely.  please.  use your safety guards and gear.  always.

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