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Michael Thuman

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Everything posted by Michael Thuman

  1. I converted my TS, Planar and Jointer to be 220 V becuase on 110 they would commonally trip a breaker on start up. I do not use more that once machine at a time. The 220 V consumes 1/2 the amperage that 110 does and produces less heat in the motor thus extending its life. I have 2 220 circuits one for the tools and one for the DC which draws 13 AMP at 220. Both are on a 20 amp circuit. The breaker must be the failure point so if 20 A you must use 12 or larger wire. I have a armored cable 10ga that I use as an extension cord between the 3 220 machines. It has never even felt warm. I would convert all tools (that are capable) to 220V. They start up quicker, heat is less and less drawn thru you main panel to the supplier. Thus they are cheaper also sort of what you pay for is KW and that is pretty much a wash.
  2. I used the tempered board from Lowes and it works great. I would not however use the toggle that wood used I would tie the string thru one hole one end then on the other put in saw curfs then flex the bow and tie off the string. Took 4 tries but got it perfect by measuing from end of the string where I was to where i needed to go.
  3. All thanks a million. Instead of the IC glue and tape you are bonde the tape to the tape so counting on the adheason of the tape adheasvive to stick to the tape. I would prefer to try the DS light from ACE the PeteM wrote about. I think was I was using was meant for permanent adheason and for hanging picutres. I like was bonding them to gether to get the same arc profile sanded. Keeping the boards parallel and square is important. Both the IC glue with activator and blue tape and DS light seem to be the way to go.
  4. Acetone, mineral spirits, alchol all failed. The only thing that worked was to bake it 200F for 30 min. Probably could have gone to 250F for 45. Then with considerable force I could move the peices apart limitedly. I think slipped in a thin knife and cut the glue in half. And it worked I parted them then got most of the glue off. Lesson learned never use this stuff again. Actually logging a correct Acetone is the solvet but you could not get enough of it in the joints to remove the adheavise. While attempt to clean the knife the Acetone works ge
  5. Would the solvent pollute the wood? I am sort of afraid of exposing the air dried oak to 200F. If the solvent won't harm the wood I will try that route.
  6. I used some double sided tape to sitick my peieces togeher while I sanded the arc I had cut smooth and I cannot unstick them. Directions say heat the surfaces with a heat gun and once to hot to touch the tape should be pliable enough to peel them apart. My question is how to I heat the wood without hurting it. Bake it at 200F or use a heat gun and risk leaving burn marks. Help please
  7. All thanks much for all the replies. The formica looks like the best of what I have avaialble. A thin strip of cherry, ash, maple, or knot free pine would work also. 1/4" luan is too stiff. Maybe I will save the masonite for work tables. Thanks I will let you know how it goes.
  8. All Lowes and HD had .115 4 x 8 sheets but is only finished on one side will this work? Ash I do not have and Maple I do have but it is plain sawn.
  9. I need to build a fairing stick to put a gracefull arc on a board. They say use tempered hard board but i cannot find it anywhere. What else can I use or where can I find tempered hard board?
  10. Thanks all I will experiment with and overall blog then spit it out if required.
  11. Thanks I will give that a shot. Do you think I should make seperate blogs for M&T joints and corrections. Then how to properly prepare flat stock with machines (Joint then plane then rip Plus 1/16" then plane to size. Going back to the source board re joint the edge before ripping off another. Then the best method to cut to size. (Cutting sled or mitre gage or shop saw). For M&T joints Make sure you have flat and square stock. Mark the mortize and cut the mortise (mine wil show my DP attachment). Measure with a calipers the location of the mortise and note that (it should be centered within .002. Load a cross cut saw in the table saw. Set and lock the height exactly to correspond to the mortise measured dimensions. Use a cross cut sled or mitre gage (verify it is squared) and cut the first wide and the corresponding short edge at the height of the tennon. Turn over the work Adjust the blade to compensate and cut the other 2 sides. Put tennon jig in the saw. Confrim square and planar. Move very slowly to the mortise side and leave it .002 to .005 heavy (tight). Turn the wood over and adjust then cut the same as before. Test the fitment in the mortise and against the overall placement in the mating peice (should line up exactly). Work around if you cut the tennon to thin (it should need a slight tap of a hammer to go in). It is slide in or falls in it is too loose. buld it back up with cut offs of the same species and tune your tennon again.
  12. Hi all I will be creating a step by step disertation on building a curio cabinet and wold like to know should this go in here or the wiki?
  13. QS WO rough milled. Face and edge and grain no. I save that for the small plane.
  14. I got it tuned up or at least producing shavings but was wondering should the blade be coplaner with the bottom of the shoe or do you stick it a little further down? I guess it goes to a turorial on the user of the plane does anyone have one or directions?
  15. Thanks for the information. Now I see the micro edge is a great idea! Thanks and I had the chip breaker up to high. Thanks again. Also I had the bevel up not down because how else would it find wood to lift up. But I see (lightbulb) this is a smoothing plan to when it finds a ridge it will shear it off. Thanks a million.
  16. I would put 1 dowel each at differing heights into the side skirt from the leg. (But then how do you get them in?) Then epoxy where the steel is from the threaded bolt then yellow glue for the dowles and to put the leg back on. You could also introduce more steel and replace the dowels with screws from the outside of the leg into the skirts. Hide and plug the heads and paint to match. The screws create less of a bending plane and should help prevent further breakage. Why the skirts were never M & T into the legs is another matter.
  17. Once tuned up, this tool felt similar to the vintage Baileys I’ve used for years. After I replaced the stock blade with a 1/8-in.-thick Lie-Nielsen blade and chipbreaker, this plane produced a consistently thin shaving in dense hardwood. Is the blade and chip breaker that comes with the plane defecient? I will have to re sharpen to 25 deg tonight as I mistakenly did 30 deg.
  18. Do you mean put the chip breaker away from the taper of the 25 degree angle to the iron full thickness and back further by 1/32 - 1/1/6"? Maybe a picture would help?
  19. I have a stanely 12-904 and questions. What angle should the blade be sharpened to 30 or 25 degrees? What is the main use for this plane? I am having trouble getting this plane to work any help appreciated! Is this a smoothing or jack plane?
  20. Be careful if you ever take your wooden jeep on public roads the local police may stop you and ask for registration.
  21. Herb, would you consider selling some of those planes to me. I am looking for a jointer plan, and everything else down to my small palm plan for cross grain chamfers. Your work is outstanding and highly regarded and want what you build in my shop.
  22. If ou sand the long grain to 150 sand the end to 400. Be careful not to round off corners or profiles. You can use sand paper backed by fingers or a sponge that is weak enough to be easily depressed into the profile. Also when you finish please consider dye for the first phase it will color uniformly the long and end grains.

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