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Found 19 results

  1. I posted this picture a few years ago and I thought with all the new members, I'd post it again. I just wonder how much that thing weighs. thisiscarpentry.com
  2. Last summer we took a trip to Lake Tahoe and toured the surrounding areas as well, this image is inside the Donner Museum, and I am standing next to a 48" big bad blade. Now what I cannot remember if this was a blade to cut through ice in the nearby Donner Lake, or if it was used in a mill, I don't think this would cut wood very well, so I am leaning towards it being an ice blade to cut ice blocks for the local towns refrigerating needs. But it is was impressive either way. I was going through some memories today of 2014 and found this.
  3. Just received an email for Shopsmith dado stacks, not bad on the pricing! Considering the high quality of their regular table saw blades, I bet these dado sets are pretty nice too. See here at: This Week's Deal! WWW.SHOPSMITH.COM Special Limited-Time Savings From Shopsmith
  4. Guys, I need to improve the quality of blade for my Stanley #7, I've tried everything to fix the cap iron re-beveled it sharpened to not allow any light thru but the chips still get in between. Thinking of getting a set of Hock pieces was looking for input or/and a good place to buy. Best price quick shipping and so on. Thanks Pat
  5. Need to make a few of these by you know when....I" thick maple is way too think for these small skinny letters..did some resawing to make sure when I cut out one of these letters I will be able to push it out one direction or the other.. These are a few of the resawed 12"x12" I needed for these logo's. Even though my maple has been in my shop for about 15 years and when I bought the large amount of the ruff lumber they said it had been milled some 10 years before the auction.. But any time I resaw 1" lumber I am parting some wood that has never been out in the air so I take no chances for warping to take place. I clamp it up so it will all stay straight until I start using it.. Now I'm waiting on some real small blades which has been ordered way too long and not gotten here yet...I hope they don't have to drive over to Germany to pick them up... They should have had them in stock anyway... The letters are only about 1/2" tall so I gotta hide the booze for the next few days. These shaky hands needs to calm down... I've cut out some of the bigger items and I might add when cutting things like this, once you start sawing, don't stop until you get back to the starting point cause if you do it will show up big time. I also have found over the years to get the best results I only go in one direction..that means I'm always turning the wood clockwise as I saw.... One good thing about using decient blades is when I finish scroll sawing I never have to give any attention to the flat areas the blade cut only the edges might need rounding a hair or not depending on the look a person is after. The blades make the flat areas smoother than what a person can make them with sand paper. If the blades are used too long a smell of burnt wood will give you a hint and burn marks will start to appear.. I've been using blades that are .013 wide and am waiting on some .011 wide. I've never cut out anything like this for the letters are out in the middle of no where so mistakes will show big time...
  6. To start the "Tips and Tricks" off on a good note, I thought of what basics we should all be aware of and some tips to make the best cuttings we can. Remember, guys and gals, there is NO right or wrong answer to any of our topics. What best works for you is the way it should be. That being said, I think we can always learn a little from our fellow scrollers. Please chime in with your suggestions of your ways of doing things. It will always be appreciated by all. BLADE ALIGNMENT We all realize that the blade should be perpendicular to the table unless we are doing angle cuts. Great blade alignment is "required" in stack cutting (which we discuss later). What we don't normally check is front to back alignment, "fore/aft" movement of the blade, and "wobble". Â Let's take them one at a time and see what we can come up with. LEFT/RIGHT ALIGNMENT I have seen several ways, over the years. Â Most of them work pretty well. I use a machinest's right angle to set my blades. Â However, for some reason, this doesn't always work on my machine. Cut into a block of wood, back it out of the kerf, move the cut to the back of the blade and see it lines up. Using a scrap piece of 3/4" stock, cut a piece out, then move the cut side to the opposite side of the blade and see if it is aligned. Cut a small circle out of 3/4" stock and see if the bottom and the top of the hole are the same size. FORE AND AFT ALIGNMENT I generally use the machinest square for this one. BLADE WOBBLE This is when the blade moves either left or right from the top to the bottom of the cut. Problem could be either rails bent, misalignment of machine, or as simple as alignment in the blade holders. Need much more help on this one. YOUR IDEAS ? ? ? ? ? ?? The Eclipse scroll saw is the only saw that I know of that has solved the above problems. This saw design has gone back to some "ole timey" machines. Belt driven, with a "perfectly aligned" plunger system.
  7. From mid summer to recent when I'm in the Emerald City and as time allows, I try to stop by Habitat for Humanity Restore and a few of the indoor flea markets...Below is stuff that followed me to my truck. As always, keep your arms & legs inside the ride at all times and be sure your safety harness is buckled. No Smoking is allowed and you must be 18 to enter or accompanied by an adult. This offer is not valid in all areas. If you call now we'll double your order, just pay a separate fee. Immediately discontinue use and contact your doctor if a rash appears or you have trouble breathing. Some restrictions apply and never feed the animals. Restrooms are on the right. In the unlikely event we have to abandon ship please make sure you are wearing clean underwear. Thank-you for using our services. We hope you had an enjoyable experience. Please take time to fill out the survey at the end. Left over projects from the old HD Kid's Workshop they used to hold on Saturday mornings. (2) of each, Toolbox & Sail Boat. Hopefully my two grandsons can help me assemble these next spring/summer Cost me 50 cents/each Local flea market...Craftsman Marking Gauge complete with blue marking chalk dust. Circa 1960's...How much was it? It you answered $2.14 you are correct. State of Indiana gets their 7%. It was only a buck...'er buck o seven. Any markings & etchings eroded away. Surprisingly, it's nearly dead on at 6" I'm thinking a Stanley but ???? This was after I had buffed off the worst of the rust. 25 cents each, scale not included...only for demonstration purposes; finials are white oak I had to dig deep for these treasures. The two reamers, center punch which appears to be a reground broken pin punch, the 6 (no name) and 10 (Irwin) and the old rubber band totaled 50 cents The ratcheting screwdriver,no name, but marked Made in USA (maybe a Dunlap) also 50 cents. The (3) countersinks + the rubber band another 50 cents. 2/3 never used or minimal. The other, maybe it will work in wood or plastic. Cornucopia of treasures between a flea market & H4H Restore. Biscuits, 10 cents/container; miter gauge marked $2; 50 cents; large zip-tye bundle 10 cents; collet wrench-quarter, 1/4"-1/2" tap t-handle 50 cents' 1/4" chuck key, dime, large pencil boxes, new (6 total) 50 cents/ea, Stanley Handyman ratcheting screwdriver w/ #2 bit, missing cap, 50 cents; brown jersey gloves, priceless; that & they were from home inventory Craftsman BS Blade, NIP, marked $3; discount orange tag made it $1 Quarter/each Little 6" tri-square before picks; Two more 12" combo squares; blue head one is a Stanley 46-222; circa late 1970's-1980's; other Made in USA; Combo squares have been re-conditioned & will be appearing in a separate thread coming soon to your neighborhood. Price what you see is it not counting Indiana's 7% "finders fee." Didn't need them that's for sure...probably should seek counseling or something. (2) 11/32 x 1/4" dr shallow sockets (those were for my brother he lost his) and 1/4" x 10mm shallow (for me in my spare collection) & what turned out to be a Sargent Block plane but it looks almost identical to Dunlap block; dime each for the sockets, quarter for the Craftsman ignition wrench and a buck for the plane. Cast know is broken; slightly different than the Dunlap...maybe an older version??? Dunlap on the right. It's been in the re-furb shop for some time...one of these days??? Could be twins. Yes that is 30o on the Dunlap iron. You don't want to hear why? I won't make the same mistake on the Sargent. Well probably not. Yeah, I bought another one of these B&D's...I'm up to an embarrassing number now. Is was missing the chuck key which I had; buffed the rust off the chuck for the photo shoot. Came with the 7/32" bit...it needs sharpened; Thorsen combination box end wrench belonged to my grandfather. I've had it over 50 years. 3/8" single speed; still needs dis-assembled, gear head cleaned, grease replaced, but works great. A whole lot of spindles and such...25 cent/bag. I think 29 bags total Couple more pencil boxes...Grandson's each got one (not pictured) to start school. O yeah, a Disston 12" back saw...thought I took a picture of the saw, but just the tag...saw is a little rough, needs cleaned and sharpened...$1...pictures in the next episode of Poor Man's Pickings. Well there you have it...keeps me off the golf course, out of bars, jail and money, but hey, somebody's got to do it. Until next time...Y'all hurry back now. Ya hear? And don't forget boys & girls, mail in your box tops along with $99.99 and receive a box of genuine, farm fresh, sawdust where you can make your own chip board. Some assembly required. Wood glue not included. Oh yeah...Survey! What survey? We don't need no stinking survey!
  8. Cleaning up my garage today, I was going through my blade collection. I've had this blade hanging on my wall for about 15 years. I never could figure out the oversized arbor hole. Till now! Seems my Shopsmith destiny was written long ago! Note logo at top. Just today I noticed the logo.
  9. First of all, when I use the term "trimming", to me, it means making the cut just a little bit wider. In scrolling there is no "untrimming" Let me put a picture up that might help: The red line is the blade and the blue line is my cut. I am cutting on 3/4" maple with some pretty hairy cuts. The blade I chose is a Flying Dutchman UR3. As you can see, the needed cut is a little over twice the width of the blade. My first cut is down the left side from A to B. Then I back the blade up and "trim" the right side from A to B. This was working great until, all of a sudden, this didn't work any more. Couldn't perform the task. SOOOOO, being the resourceful guy I am (and cheap) - (ops - meant frugal), instead of changing the blade I tried reversing the procedure. First cut down the right side and then followed up on the left side. Worked like a charm. OK, guys, what changed??????????????
  10. I have a question about scroll saw blade nomenclature. I am doing a project that requires some scroll saw blade work, and the plans specify a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. I understand the reverse tooth, but what does the #2 signify? I was looking at a scroll saw blade selection chart on the Olson blade web site, and every specification that I could imagine was listed on the chart, along with a Universal Number column. Any ideas?
  11. Picked this "gem" today while on a rust hunt....yes I found rust, too... That is the blade that was with it. There is a thumbscrew to tighten things in place... It has a smooth, curve "bottom" Those "teeth" on the blade are not from a breakage.. They have been filed that way. The only markings seems to ba a "Patented DEC (#) 15......as in Dec of 1915. The "day" part is a bit scratched up. One other edge is straight (almost) and the other has a slight curve to it. Thumbscrew seems to match a Stanley made one. What is it?
  12. I need to find a chainsaw grinder blade and wheel 5/8 arbor for wood carving. Any place some one would recommend. Thanks Preston
  13. Just wanted to throw another topic out there for us to discuss. Blade Preparation. Do you do anything to your blades when you put a new one in your saw? Most of the time, I DO prep the blade. Our blades are fresh from the factory and usually contain all kinds of stuff on them - even though the manufacturers do a great job of getting 99% of it off. Probablyh even chromium blades have stuff on them. The blades are secured in our machines by friction - meaning we tighten the screws down onto the blades tightly. I see quite a few threads about blades coming loose at all the wrong times (Murphy's Law). That being said, I have gotten into a routine of prepping my blade before inserting a new one. Let me explain: 1. Cleaning top and bottom (especially bottom). I have my Dremel tool hanging on a nail right close to my saw. Use it mainly to get rid of any feathers I might find (saves me from getting up to get it ). I use it to also clean both sides of my blades (as shown in the pictures below. By doing this, I get rid of any residual oils and crud that may be on the blade itself and there by not transferring any to the screw heads. Keeps the blades good and secure when cutting ( don't come loose any more). The blade on the left is fresh out of the factory bag and the one on the right is shined up. Takes about 5 seconds to do both sides. 2. The blades have a square end on them. When putting a #3 blade into a #60 pilot hole don't ya see. (Hense, putting a square peg into a round hole.) Of course, I have come up with a quick way to take care of this as well. Whilst having my trusty Dermel in my hand, I simply "shave" off a little steel on one side. Makes it a whole lot easier to insert. See pix below. 3. And finally - our blades also have a square back on them. Sometimes these are very sharp when cutting tight corners and will, therefore, try to cut into the wood. Quite often, this dull cutting edge might burn the wood. How do I prevent this, you ask? By "honing" the back edge when first putting the blade in and tightening it down. Takes only a minute of your time but well worth it in my opinion. I keep a little "diamond" honing pad next to the machine, turn the saw on, lay the pad next to the blade, a little on each back edge and it's done. Hope this helps some folks out that may be experiencing these problems. OF COURSE, comments are always enjoyed on this forum. We want to know what Y'ALL think, too. Ciao - back to make some talcum power sawdust.
  14. I saw this posted on Facebook and had to share it. Really ingenious design to make boxes and joints using a stacked dado set and this new design specialty blade. This is NOT on the market yet as the designer has a patent pending for it and is soliciting tool manufacturers. Very cool looking! http://www.homesteadnotes.com/one-cut-with-this-blade-makes-a-corner/2/
  15. We were approached by a viewer at Lumber Jocks asking for the Shop Notes plans to build this guard at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46742 The member on LJ's is our own Mike Dillen, he has the signature with our community site in it, how cool is that, so the fellow who contacted us asking for the Shop Notes edition with the plans, is under the impression he can see the plans from us, I know it's confusing, but hey, we want to help the fellow. Apparently he tried getting in touch with Mike, but had no luck. So now he's asking us, he is a woodworker in Mexico, they don't have much down there in the way of woodworking retail stores, so he wants to build his own guard. Any help is appreciated!
  16. A thought occurred to me yesterday whilst sawing on some 1/4" Baltic Birch, stacked to 2. "I have been using this same blade for quite some time and it's still working. When will I know when it's time to change?" My answer to myself "The blade will let you know, dummy." I know, I know, talking to myself whilst cutting/sawing. Admit it, guys, you have done the same thing only you were taking to the wood or the tool or the blood spurting from a fresh cut. Anyhow, I thought it would be a great topic. I will reserve MY thoughts until a few others have chimed in. No, I'm not backing out of the thread, I have my own thoughts on this one but want to make sure you have a chance to put your 2% of a buck in the thread first. Awaiting your responses.
  17. I have been using carbide tip saw blades for many years and have not had a tip fly off. I've had tips broken or chipped off. A friend told me he had one fly off and found it embedded in his ceiling, he thinks. He said it was a cheap blade he was using to cut junk wood. Do they fly off? Ever have it happen to you? If you inspect your blade could you see anything that could mean one may fly off?
  18. I am thinking about putting a small blade (5") on my 10" table saw. If I can find one for a five eights arbor. Then create a zero clearance throat plate for that blade. The reason for this strange set up is that I want precision cuts in small pieces. I would make small push sticks for this set up. Can anyone see anything wrong or give me their thoughts pro or con? Thanks
  19. I have been using a Woodworker II for quite a few years and it has served me well. Well almost. I returned it to the factory for sharpening and they blew it. I sent it back and they did it again. Each time they left silver solder bubbles on the teeth they replaced. The saw blade has never been the same. Any way my subject is; If you was going to buy a good 10" combination table saw blade, what would it be? Would it be thin or thick cerf? I'd like to get it for a reasonable price too. I paid $120 for the old one and I would like to get a nice one for a lot less. Since sharpening is costly and may not come back sharpened properly I'd rather just buy a new on Your thoughts are appreciated
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