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Found 20 results

  1. While rearranging one of my work bench drawers, I came across what is obviously a plane iron, but it doesn't fit any of my planes. Does anybody recognize this iron, or have any idea of what brand, make, model, etc of plane it might belong to? The blade is 3 5/8" long by 2" wide by 1/8" thick. The only plane I have that uses an iron even close to that short is a cheap Harbour Freight plane I purchased to make into a scrub plane, and this iron is just a hair too wide to fit that body, and nothing in that blade matches up to the adjustment mechanism for that plane. Any ideas?
  2. I have been using a Woodworker II for quite a few years and it has served me well. Well almost. I returned it to the factory for sharpening and they blew it. I sent it back and they did it again. Each time they left silver solder bubbles on the teeth they replaced. The saw blade has never been the same. Any way my subject is; If you was going to buy a good 10" combination table saw blade, what would it be? Would it be thin or thick cerf? I'd like to get it for a reasonable price too. I paid $120 for the old one and I would like to get a nice one for
  3. Guys, I need to improve the quality of blade for my Stanley #7, I've tried everything to fix the cap iron re-beveled it sharpened to not allow any light thru but the chips still get in between. Thinking of getting a set of Hock pieces was looking for input or/and a good place to buy. Best price quick shipping and so on. Thanks Pat
  4. I posted this picture a few years ago and I thought with all the new members, I'd post it again. I just wonder how much that thing weighs. thisiscarpentry.com
  5. Last summer we took a trip to Lake Tahoe and toured the surrounding areas as well, this image is inside the Donner Museum, and I am standing next to a 48" big bad blade. Now what I cannot remember if this was a blade to cut through ice in the nearby Donner Lake, or if it was used in a mill, I don't think this would cut wood very well, so I am leaning towards it being an ice blade to cut ice blocks for the local towns refrigerating needs. But it is was impressive either way. I was going through some memories today of 2014 and found this.
  6. Just received an email for Shopsmith dado stacks, not bad on the pricing! Considering the high quality of their regular table saw blades, I bet these dado sets are pretty nice too. See here at: This Week's Deal! WWW.SHOPSMITH.COM Special Limited-Time Savings From Shopsmith
  7. Need to make a few of these by you know when....I" thick maple is way too think for these small skinny letters..did some resawing to make sure when I cut out one of these letters I will be able to push it out one direction or the other.. These are a few of the resawed 12"x12" I needed for these logo's. Even though my maple has been in my shop for about 15 years and when I bought the large amount of the ruff lumber they said it had been milled some 10 years before the auction.. But any time I resaw 1" lumber I am parting some wood that has never been out in the air so I take no chances for war
  8. To start the "Tips and Tricks" off on a good note, I thought of what basics we should all be aware of and some tips to make the best cuttings we can. Remember, guys and gals, there is NO right or wrong answer to any of our topics. What best works for you is the way it should be. That being said, I think we can always learn a little from our fellow scrollers. Please chime in with your suggestions of your ways of doing things. It will always be appreciated by all. BLADE ALIGNMENT We all realize that the blade should be perpendicular to the table unless we are doing a
  9. From mid summer to recent when I'm in the Emerald City and as time allows, I try to stop by Habitat for Humanity Restore and a few of the indoor flea markets...Below is stuff that followed me to my truck. As always, keep your arms & legs inside the ride at all times and be sure your safety harness is buckled. No Smoking is allowed and you must be 18 to enter or accompanied by an adult. This offer is not valid in all areas. If you call now we'll double your order, just pay a separate fee. Immediately discontinue use and contact your doctor if a rash appears or you have trou
  10. Cleaning up my garage today, I was going through my blade collection. I've had this blade hanging on my wall for about 15 years. I never could figure out the oversized arbor hole. Till now! Seems my Shopsmith destiny was written long ago! Note logo at top. Just today I noticed the logo.
  11. First of all, when I use the term "trimming", to me, it means making the cut just a little bit wider. In scrolling there is no "untrimming" Let me put a picture up that might help: The red line is the blade and the blue line is my cut. I am cutting on 3/4" maple with some pretty hairy cuts. The blade I chose is a Flying Dutchman UR3. As you can see, the needed cut is a little over twice the width of the blade. My first cut is down the left side from A to B. Then I back the blade up and "trim" the right side from A to B. This was working great until, all of a sudden, this di
  12. I have a question about scroll saw blade nomenclature. I am doing a project that requires some scroll saw blade work, and the plans specify a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. I understand the reverse tooth, but what does the #2 signify? I was looking at a scroll saw blade selection chart on the Olson blade web site, and every specification that I could imagine was listed on the chart, along with a Universal Number column. Any ideas?
  13. Picked this "gem" today while on a rust hunt....yes I found rust, too... That is the blade that was with it. There is a thumbscrew to tighten things in place... It has a smooth, curve "bottom" Those "teeth" on the blade are not from a breakage.. They have been filed that way. The only markings seems to ba a "Patented DEC (#) 15......as in Dec of 1915. The "day" part is a bit scratched up. One other edge is straight (almost) and the other has a slight curve to it. Thumbscrew seems to match a Stanley made one.
  14. I need to find a chainsaw grinder blade and wheel 5/8 arbor for wood carving. Any place some one would recommend. Thanks Preston
  15. Just wanted to throw another topic out there for us to discuss. Blade Preparation. Do you do anything to your blades when you put a new one in your saw? Most of the time, I DO prep the blade. Our blades are fresh from the factory and usually contain all kinds of stuff on them - even though the manufacturers do a great job of getting 99% of it off. Probablyh even chromium blades have stuff on them. The blades are secured in our machines by friction - meaning we tighten the screws down onto the blades tightly. I see quite a few threads about blades coming loose a
  16. I saw this posted on Facebook and had to share it. Really ingenious design to make boxes and joints using a stacked dado set and this new design specialty blade. This is NOT on the market yet as the designer has a patent pending for it and is soliciting tool manufacturers. Very cool looking! http://www.homesteadnotes.com/one-cut-with-this-blade-makes-a-corner/2/
  17. We were approached by a viewer at Lumber Jocks asking for the Shop Notes plans to build this guard at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46742 The member on LJ's is our own Mike Dillen, he has the signature with our community site in it, how cool is that, so the fellow who contacted us asking for the Shop Notes edition with the plans, is under the impression he can see the plans from us, I know it's confusing, but hey, we want to help the fellow. Apparently he tried getting in touch with Mike, but had no luck. So now he's asking us, he is a woodworker in Mexico, they don't have much down there
  18. A thought occurred to me yesterday whilst sawing on some 1/4" Baltic Birch, stacked to 2. "I have been using this same blade for quite some time and it's still working. When will I know when it's time to change?" My answer to myself "The blade will let you know, dummy." I know, I know, talking to myself whilst cutting/sawing. Admit it, guys, you have done the same thing only you were taking to the wood or the tool or the blood spurting from a fresh cut. Anyhow, I thought it would be a great topic. I will reserve MY thoughts until a few others have chimed in. No, I'm not b
  19. I have been using carbide tip saw blades for many years and have not had a tip fly off. I've had tips broken or chipped off. A friend told me he had one fly off and found it embedded in his ceiling, he thinks. He said it was a cheap blade he was using to cut junk wood. Do they fly off? Ever have it happen to you? If you inspect your blade could you see anything that could mean one may fly off?
  20. I am thinking about putting a small blade (5") on my 10" table saw. If I can find one for a five eights arbor. Then create a zero clearance throat plate for that blade. The reason for this strange set up is that I want precision cuts in small pieces. I would make small push sticks for this set up. Can anyone see anything wrong or give me their thoughts pro or con? Thanks
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