January 8, 201412 yr To start the "Tips and Tricks" off on a good note, I thought of what basics we should all be aware of and some tips to make the best cuttings we can. Remember, guys and gals, there is NO right or wrong answer to any of our topics. What best works for you is the way it should be. That being said, I think we can always learn a little from our fellow scrollers. Please chime in with your suggestions of your ways of doing things. It will always be appreciated by all. BLADE ALIGNMENT We all realize that the blade should be perpendicular to the table unless we are doing angle cuts. Great blade alignment is "required" in stack cutting (which we discuss later). What we don't normally check is front to back alignment, "fore/aft" movement of the blade, and "wobble". Â Let's take them one at a time and see what we can come up with. LEFT/RIGHT ALIGNMENT I have seen several ways, over the years. Â Most of them work pretty well. I use a machinest's right angle to set my blades. Â However, for some reason, this doesn't always work on my machine. Cut into a block of wood, back it out of the kerf, move the cut to the back of the blade and see it lines up. Using a scrap piece of 3/4" stock, cut a piece out, then move the cut side to the opposite side of the blade and see if it is aligned. Cut a small circle out of 3/4" stock and see if the bottom and the top of the hole are the same size. FORE AND AFT ALIGNMENT I generally use the machinest square for this one. BLADE WOBBLE This is when the blade moves either left or right from the top to the bottom of the cut. Problem could be either rails bent, misalignment of machine, or as simple as alignment in the blade holders. Need much more help on this one. YOUR IDEAS ? ? ? ? ? ?? The Eclipse scroll saw is the only saw that I know of that has solved the above problems. This saw design has gone back to some "ole timey" machines. Belt driven, with a "perfectly aligned" plunger system.
January 8, 201412 yr For me LEFT/RIGHT I use a block of wood 1 1/2 tall. Mark a cut tine with a square and cut into it maybe 1/2". Back out the kerf and compare it to the back side of the blade. If you have trouble seeing the cut, fill it with white chalk, black blades stand against this back ground very well. This is most accurate if you joint the top and bottom of the test piece before cutting into it. FORE/AFT I prefer to use the machinist square only. Not normally an adjustment I have to worry about till I start stack cutting, then this becomes more delicate and critical. Blade Wobble The only way I know to check it is using a dial indicator mounted on a block and fastened to the table with a clamp. You have to operate the blade through its up and down cycle by hand which is a royal pain in the seat cushions if your drive motor is hard to get through. You have to unplug the saw to be on the safe side of course. I check mine maybe once a year for this. Unless I am having some type of issue.
January 8, 201412 yr Author Wayne - forgot about the dial indicator - great idea - and thanks for the input.
January 9, 201412 yr Author Gene - I think the initial Tips and Tricks thread is a success. Over 80 views of the thread with one alternative. That, folks, is the intention of this series. Thanks. Look for us again, next week.
January 11, 201412 yr Fred, I find this comment rather interesting. "The Eclipse scroll saw is the only saw that I know of that has solved the above problems. This saw design has gone back to some "ole timey" machines. Belt driven, with a "perfectly aligned" plunger system." Sounds like a bit of history repeats itself. Larry Edited November 13, 20187 yr by Larry Buskirk
September 12, 201411 yr OMG i will be getting writers crud from all these tips,but they sure will help me out,since its time to start christmas ornaments.
September 8, 20187 yr Moved out of the archives up to our tips, still great suggestions by our Scroll Saw Forum Host @Fred Wilson.
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