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Found 22 results

  1. For you guys that's worried about trying to decide what it is I do, I don't know either but I sure have fun in the shop at doing what ever it is. This new stuff is from Michaels and is less that 1.50 for a 2 ounce bottle after the discount...so I got 20 different colors.. With and with out the flash!!!! I haven't put any clear on yet. The stains I've been using for years is what I brought when we moved from the last house so I thought I would see what new products have come along since back yonder.. I didn't buy any wood color stains this time for I still have plenty.. The only thing wood color was some oak for his feet. Wife wants a dark purple background and lighter purple frame.. I used about a 1/20 of an ounce or less from each bottle for this project. Yes there is much higher priced dyes and stains to do the same thing, or close to the same...so what ever turns on each other...please choose your medicine by yourself.. I did get three bottles that has glitter added but there is hardly any stain in the solution so I will not get anymore of that and if I want glitter I will use glitter only on top and in between clear coats if that is to be added over the stained colors...
  2. When finished with the last one I immediately thought I could do better..not just in a place or two. Maybe because it was easier than most of my projects. But maybe the reason I already had glued up and prepared the slab for the next project...and I think I wanted more wild color for the ole rooster to stand out in that crowd. So I'm at this stage right now.. I had already used biscuits between the boards so I am starting to see the row of boats again. I tried to stay above them but the edge tapering is bringing them out.
  3. This morning I looked over what I did last night by bringing up the man chicken to the top. When I do things I have no plans for the next step as Paul Harvey would say.. I show what I mean by not thinking...See the parts of three biscuits up top inside the frame..I put them 1/4" from the bottom of the 1" thick maple.. All these pieces will be glued on to the 1/2" BB which I installed to the back side of the frame so I can have something to carry around as I go from station to station doing all kinds of shaping of the pieces of wood..I didn't need biscuits to start with but that's just a habit I acquired when edge joining all my wood.. So whats my plan?? Don't know till I get back out there and see where I can do the least amount of damage and make it look like I am always under control... Now I am thinking I can make these funny shaped things look like UFO's have invaded the fowl ranch.... Another strange thing happened this morning...I took this picture this morning.. I down loaded it this morning then after eating breakfast I come over here and started this post and tried to find the picture..No luck so I go back out to the shop and take another picture and come in and load it. I tried to find it to post here and couldn't find it.. Come here wife and help me for this computer is being strange this morning....I screw around for an hour or so then I looked down and notice the date is Feb 1,,,,,, so that is where my pictures went for I been looking under January... and they start a new series of pictures each month. Like I said I am slow and sometimes I am dead stopped...Now I am sorry to say all these feathers will all be different when I get through playing and as I said before I have no plan.. so as long as the colors and stains last I will keep having fun experimenting. Never done a man chicken before so I hope I shape things in the right directions.. Got to look up UF0's before I go to the shop.. I got some round dowels I could turn in to wheels and tires but not too many pictures of them being built that way???
  4. So how do y'all attach a backing to a fretwork piece? Specifically, how do you apply the adhesive so that it dosen't get on the finished sides? Additionally I would like to use a waterproof glue (Welcome sign for the front door), polyurethane comes to mind but it seems to be pretty messy and ugly if too much is applied. Thoughts?
  5. So, if you use a scrollsaw, what brand, make or model do you use? Pros and cons appreciated. I'll start; Delta Model 40-560 Type II with quick clamp, blade clamp. Pros, not terribly expensive, Two speed, very fast blade clamp/unclamp (important for fretwork), up front tension release/adjustment , fast tension release. Cons, some vibration, small table, never use the slow speed, adjusting the blade clamp for different blades cumbersome.
  6. Finally get to deliver this today and exchange it for an older model!
  7. From the album: small basket

    This is a small item I make to use up scrap and provide an anti suicide message. I give these away free at craft shows to anyone who wants or needs them. Look up the semi colon initiative.
  8. To start the "Tips and Tricks" off on a good note, I thought of what basics we should all be aware of and some tips to make the best cuttings we can. Remember, guys and gals, there is NO right or wrong answer to any of our topics. What best works for you is the way it should be. That being said, I think we can always learn a little from our fellow scrollers. Please chime in with your suggestions of your ways of doing things. It will always be appreciated by all. BLADE ALIGNMENT We all realize that the blade should be perpendicular to the table unless we are doing angle cuts. Great blade alignment is "required" in stack cutting (which we discuss later). What we don't normally check is front to back alignment, "fore/aft" movement of the blade, and "wobble". Â Let's take them one at a time and see what we can come up with. LEFT/RIGHT ALIGNMENT I have seen several ways, over the years. Â Most of them work pretty well. I use a machinest's right angle to set my blades. Â However, for some reason, this doesn't always work on my machine. Cut into a block of wood, back it out of the kerf, move the cut to the back of the blade and see it lines up. Using a scrap piece of 3/4" stock, cut a piece out, then move the cut side to the opposite side of the blade and see if it is aligned. Cut a small circle out of 3/4" stock and see if the bottom and the top of the hole are the same size. FORE AND AFT ALIGNMENT I generally use the machinest square for this one. BLADE WOBBLE This is when the blade moves either left or right from the top to the bottom of the cut. Problem could be either rails bent, misalignment of machine, or as simple as alignment in the blade holders. Need much more help on this one. YOUR IDEAS ? ? ? ? ? ?? The Eclipse scroll saw is the only saw that I know of that has solved the above problems. This saw design has gone back to some "ole timey" machines. Belt driven, with a "perfectly aligned" plunger system.
  9. this is not the same box but is the way I start building one. I have to print out 10 exact patterns. The tenth one is just solid with no holes for drawers. All the pieces I cut out for the drawers are later glued together except for the front of the drawer and the back of the drawer. I use dowels to line up everything . If I don't use the dowels when clamping two pieces together it could slip just a hair one way or the other and cause lots of extra sanding or cause for the trash can. Each set of holes has to be in a different place than the next side of the pieces. And you can't drill the next side until the first side is marked and drilled and glued. Drawers are somewhere around 5 1/2 to 6" deep. The body being one solidly glued up mass with no cuts joining each drawer keeps it all from warping from season changes.. I use brasing or stainless steel rods for drawer pulls before I start spraying the clear lacquer so they will stay looking good and not tarnish. I also put a wider drawer front on to cover up the possible gaps from sanding and creating a back looking mess. And here also the dowels help to line up the drawer fronts. So far, all the sawing was with the scroll saw so the reason I call my boxes scroll saw jewelry boxes. Now before I glue the front of the drawer on and the back of the drawer on I first mark where the cavity of the drawer will be and cut that area out with a band saw. Then using the dowel holes I first pt in the pieces I can now glue the on and they will have bee lined up before the cavities of the drawers were sawn in... Its not a good idea to be drinking beer when all this is taking place for all these holes I drill has to have a stop set on the drill press or else... There is way more preparation in one of these boxes and a few more weeks involved.. I cut the last 4 boxes I made out outside my motor home while sitting in an rv park in Colo.. I had all the wood glued together for each piece I needed and would only glue on one pattern one at a time as I started to scroll saw each piece out... Gluing a pattern on two or three days before the sawing takes place the pattern will shrink and stretch and some might ruin to not be usable. I always took two or three extra patterns and pieces of prepared wood just in case... I have also found two different printers will make different size patterns even though I use the same pattern in two different printers..Not good when I am having to make multiple patterns and needing some more away from the printer I first used. When cutting out this many of the same thing and needing them as close to each other as I can get them, I find I have to start my scroll saw cutting from the same place and go in the same direction on all the pieces... Going two different directions on two different pieces a person has a tendency to lean or push the wood just enough to make differences and I get get bad line up problems and then add that many more pieces it gets too wild....Yes it ruined my very first wide box because of this... Using the dowel system where at least 3 dowels and most of the time 4 dowels on each side of all the pieces I can get things more manageable when its time to sand it all smooth on the inside and the outside and all the drawers.. All these have to stay in line as to how they were sawn so lots of marking goes on and off. Don't even know if this is understandable or not?? And I can sure see the difference in my sawing from starting in the morning or just before I quit at night. Those lines can sure get wavy. Jess
  10. This is an early project I did for the bosses office. Last week he paid me high praise when he said he'd always thought I did it on the laser.
  11. Posted this last year, might have to make a few more this time around... Only takes a 1 x 6 x 8' to make all four of these.....need to find the patterns again, and the other supplies.... This one is a bit "blocky", I have been known to use a router table and a 3/8" round-over bit, to round things out.. Big red bow, and a red nose. Black sharpie for the eyes. Nails and glue to hold things in place. Hot-melt glue to hold the "antlers" ....just in case Rudolph should fall over. Hot melt will give way before any of the wood will. Usually stain the antlers a dark walnut. Sometimes, I will even use real Walnut. depending on what I use to cut out the parts, each Rudolph will take about,...1/2 an hour to do..
  12. I guess I'll have to dig around for the patterns, again.. Usually made out of a 1x6 pine board, a few nails, and some red things. Sometimes, I even use real walnut for the antlers.... Hot melt glue to hold the antlers in place....because the hot melt will give way before the wood will, IF it is knocked onto the floor Eyes were done with just a Sharpie. Bow was held in place by a dab of hot melt glue. This one is a bit plain, other times, I have fired up the router table, with a 3/8" round-over bit, and gave Rudolph a more rounded body. Just 6 pieces of pine...could usually get 5 or 6 of these out of an 8' 1x6 board. Might dig around to see IF I can find the old pattern for a sleigh, as well....got a few months yet....
  13. We have 3 church families, 2 with son's that are deployed overseas and 1 lady that beat breast cancer 9 years ago. I have some left over 1/4" BB plywood and with the weather and the shop warm enough to get out I cut these for them. We'll give them out Sunday.
  14. Here is a family of Easter Bunny banks that I made for a customer for her daughter.  My customer is teaching her daughter to save so there are banks for Pennies, Nickles, Dimes, Quarters, Dollar Bills and Foreign Coins.   The purple bunny is bigger than the rest it is 10 inches tall x 14 inches long x 5 inches wide.  All the other are 8 inches high x 10 inches long x 3 3/4 inches wide.     DW
  15. I finally got a scrollsaw up and working and adjusted so I can start playing around with it and do stuff like this:
  16. I've been following some other Scroll Sawing forums and it sounds like Mike has retired and sold his business to Wooden Teddy Bear. It sounds like it was on his terms so enjoy your retirement, Mike!
  17. A thought occurred to me yesterday whilst sawing on some 1/4" Baltic Birch, stacked to 2. "I have been using this same blade for quite some time and it's still working. When will I know when it's time to change?" My answer to myself "The blade will let you know, dummy." I know, I know, talking to myself whilst cutting/sawing. Admit it, guys, you have done the same thing only you were taking to the wood or the tool or the blood spurting from a fresh cut. Anyhow, I thought it would be a great topic. I will reserve MY thoughts until a few others have chimed in. No, I'm not backing out of the thread, I have my own thoughts on this one but want to make sure you have a chance to put your 2% of a buck in the thread first. Awaiting your responses.
  18. Had found a busted up shelf thingy a while back. After some fussing and cussing, got almost back together. It was missing a couple parts, was loose in a few others. Decided to just build a copy of it in pine. Went out to Lowes with a $20 bill in hand, came back home with 65 cents. Had a decent stack of thin "project" pine boards. Used a couple parts of the old unit to serve as patterns. The two middle shelves were easy to do, just trace the part out, scrollsaw it out, and set it aside. However, the top and bottom shelves were wider than any of the boards I bought. So a few glue ups were done. Last one was done tonight. Took it out of the clamps, block plane to level things up. Traced out the pattern and watched the scrollsaw do it's things. Left a bit of the line, and clamped the part in the vise. Well both parts went into the vise. The rounded corners were belt sanded to match each other. Took LIGHT shavings, one, because I AM taking things easy, and two, didn't want to get carried away. Laid out some notches on the middle shelves and the two uprights. Of course, I had to cut two uprights to length, first. Cordless mitresaw.. Laid out the lines for some notches. Scrollsaw to make a pair of cuts, per notch. Tap a chisel to break out the waste, and a little paring to clean up. Knocked the parts together as a dry fit Not too hateful? Still need to frame in the front for a glass door. Add a couple pilars at the back corners, and figure out how to attach the old trim pieces. Taking things slowly, moving at the speed of smell, I think. Maybe another week, and I can think about a finish...... Til then, stay tuned.
  19. Time to make a few "Rudolphs". Bandsaw is long gone. I did pick up a scrollsaw last spring ( @ $10) so maybe try it out? Just six pieces of scrap pine. Then just a few nails to hold the "legs" to the body. Maybe a drop of glue as well. Used to run these parts over the router table, to round over the outside edges. Don't have such a thing set up, nowadays. 1" beltsander to smooth the edges, and round them over just a tad. Stain the body a light colour, and the antlers a darker colour. Add a few extras.. And we have Rudolph! Used to be able to get maybe 5 of these out of a 1x6x 8' pine board. Now, I just used scraps of pine. Another look Handsome critter, ain't he? Guess I better dig up them plans I had for a sleigh......
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