3 minutes ago, Dovetail said:

Are marking knives preferred because the line is distinct, thin, and the wood is not inked?

Thin line but a little more difficult to see. When laying out the dovetail "length", around the boards, a marking gauge with a blade (round or other) cuts a line that makes registering the chisel, for waste removal, much easier.

Do any of these look familiar and well-paged from your own libraries?

 

        

The Complete Manual of Woodworking has been the required book for my beginning woodworking class for the last several years.  I picked up the Joint Book thanks to an Amazon.com recommendation and we have a copy on the bookshelf at the fab lab (shop/classroom) for students to peruse.  Many do.

4D

I'm pretty sure I have a copy of Woodworking Basics. IIRC, purchased used at Goodwill or maybe another Thrift Store.. It like most of my others are stored away. 

Hmm..kind of a mess, at the moment..

Took the drawers apart. Dry and cracking in places but usable with a bit of glue and clamps. Second project,  repurpose the parts into this engine compartment stowage box assembly.   It'll sit on the vacant secondary battery shelf.

 

Run, Rabbet, Run! The base fits into the handy dado original to the drawers. Wow, cutting that plywood brought a real smell of age to the room!

 

Found the pegs and reamer. I'll try putting in a few pegs. They are ebony, not ideal, since the sides are a very dry pine - really good for carving. Clean up the edges, maybe use a little pine & glue filler, probably set a two-part hinged lid - plenty of c.1930 hinges in the basement. Final exterior sanding, sealer, and call it a rag box. for checking the oil. Maybe stow the 25-Torx driver and a couple H11 bulbs as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Discovered I can use my scraper and a couple of Sharpie dots as a guide to mark all of the peg holes. Look, Ma! No ruler! 

 

 

Trimming pegs with S'Newmanesque flair . . .

(I started on the bench disc sander but realized I was cheating)

 

There is a jig in my shop...for use when adding handles to the drawers of a Chest of Drawers...

Just 2 sticks, 90 degrees to each other...3 holes are for the bolt holes the hardware uses...

Center hole is for single knobs...the other 2 are for a two post handle...when done, all the handles in a 5 drawer chest of drawers will  line up.  

Can be adjust for location on the drawers..up, down, in or out.

Wow, pushing the plane through ebony pegs, there's got to be a trick to it. Oh yeah, sharper blade, maybe an actual bench vise, and younger muscle. 

 

Without seeing Steve N's image of trimming his box joint end grain by hand plane, I would have taken an easier way out.   Although the block sander at final did feel a little like cheating. I'll get a sharper edge on my No.102 before the next box.

 

 

1 hour ago, steven newman said:

Can be adjust for location on the drawers..up, down, in or out.

 

 

+1

 

I use something similar that is shop made as well.  Have one made specific to drawer handles I make for shop use only.  

Peg and dowel trimming..is usually the job for a low angle Block plane....like a Stanley No. 60-1/2....takes them right down flush.   Usually helps IF you saw 90% of the pin or dowel, or plug off first....Flush cut saw, riding on a piece of paper to protect the "good" wood..  

 

I make my own plugs, trying to match the surrounding grain...then a sharp chisel gets one whack, and most of the waste goes flying...then the block finishes up the job...makes a LOT of thin wafers, too...

I've shaved boxwood bushings wafer-thin with chisel, right to the finished surface. These ebony pegs go right deep into the adjoining wood; I knew there's be issues with soft / hard. Well, I approached it with no fear of failing.   Now to get those pesky machined-sanding marks out. And stop using the bench sander! And buy a rabbetting plane!

 

3 hours ago, Dovetail said:

Trimming pegs with S'Newmanesque flair . . .

(I started on the bench disc sander but realized I was cheating)

 

It ain't cheatin' if it works!

AND....

"Discovered I can use my scraper and a couple of Sharpie dots as a guide to mark all of the peg holes. Look, Ma! No ruler!"

Yea! another convert! 

7 hours ago, Dovetail said:

Discovered I can use my scraper and a couple of Sharpie dots as a guide to mark all of the peg holes. Look, Ma! No ruler! 

 

 

 

 

 

We use a reamer such as that to ream out the spout of powder horns to fit the plug (usually a fiddle plug also). The 2 my buddy has have been in countless powder horns over the years......and to say that they are sharp is an understatement. His are made by Herdim out of Germany. Superb quality tools. 

I've also got a cello peghole reamer. 1:25 taper. Wish I had more sizes, for the various endpins.

 

My plane is a low angle but a smaller version of the 60 1/2. It wants sharpening, methinks.

 

Today I ripped an astragal of sorts from this drawer face. Cleaning it up, shaving the lip underside, gave me my decade-allotment of lead dust.    But I find that after planing the paint off, the wood is different from the drawer side components used for the rest of the box. 

 

No rush, I'll likely go to Plan B, join more wood together and do some figuring. Make a lap joint between the two hinged sides of the lid maybe  Or heck, paint the astragal fire engine red, like a racing stripe. 

 

 

 

Gave up on that lid. Then spent mucho time leveling the bottom, the top, and the lid. In the finest S'Newmanesque manner. Rockin'and'a'planing.

 

Whenever I try something, I give it 100%. Setting the hinges was a 100% failure.  Another chance to plane the top sides of the box. Remove the hinge mortises. OK, one side lower. Going round and round again. 

 

 

Finally retrieve advice Steve N offered regarding how to plane the top level. Turns out with assorted planes, doing it by eye, and not getting too finicky, it came out fine. Wonderful!

 

Making the Lid, Round III.  Soon to come: Doin' some gluin'.

 

Wow, a joiner would sure make this easier!   

 

3 hours ago, Dovetail said:

Wow, a joiner would sure make this easier!   

I take that back. Better setup allows use of the Stanley Handyman. Perfect and ready for joinery.