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What's on your work bench? This is the official topic for images and friendly chatter regarding that all important surface, the personal statement of your shop, the steadfast friend we can always count on, the space of your shop that nobody knows better than you, we are talking about the almighty "Work Bench". Submit your images now! That's right, don't clean it up, don't be embarrassed, the messier the better, or if there is nothing on it at all, that is fine too. If you have not touched your bench in years, and you have taken a break from woodworking and have boxes piled on it, we want that image too! All images are welcome. Spirit of Topic This is a Hit-n-Run topic, as you walk past your bench, whip out your camera or smart phone, and snap a shot, load it up here. No need for text explanations if you don't want too. To kick this off, walk out in your shop and snap a picture of your bench surface now, and lets get this topic rolling. This will be an ongoing topic, for you to share images of your bench top today, and every day. Types of benches Some of us have small benches, some of us have big benches, some of us use a space in our dining room, some may have a picnic table they use for a bench, and some of us may have a bench of all benches, the traditional joiners bench, or a beautiful full cabinet shakers bench. No matter what you call your work surface, no matter what your work surface looks like, we want to see images of your bench! Thank you in advance to the participants!
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When last seen, these were what was left of the stash of Ash.. Not enough wide stuff, too many narrow things...sort through this and see what I can make.. Trim these, and maybe build a pair of doors? Try and have these 2 as the ends? Thin panel is too thin...the other? maybe rip down the center line, and make the 2 sides from them? Hmmmm...ok...Had Laundry Detail, today.... So...while I was down there....work on a few items...like the rough edges of the door parts.. Millers Falls No. 11, Type 2...works nicely as a jointer on small stuff...THEN trim for length, with the jointed edges against the mitre gauge.. Spread some glue along the mated edges, add some clamps and cauls... Door #1 is glued up...repeat for door #2. Then set both aside, for a day... While I work on a few other items ( waiting on the rinse cycle?) Saw was busy, today.... Wide panel has been ripped, the 2 end pieces were then ripped to match....was having trouble with one end piece...could not get it flat....and was getting too thin to work out..scrapped that one...need to resaw a new one......set up the tablesaw to cut a kerf...so that one side would match the existing sides/end Something like this..only, the saw blade can't reach all the way to the middle...we have ways... Saw about 1/2 way down, turn over, and saw from the other end.. Hardest part was keeping the saw from hitting the top of the vise... Needed to match this for thickness..came close...then cut away the worst parts, and match up to that other end piece... Wasn't quite flat,, We have ways.. Edges were a tad rough, too...saw marks.. Not a problem..planes were busy, today.. Ya think? Until the doors or done, this is about as far as I can go...need to size the box to the doors...first. then decide and a choice of corner joints...and whether to add a bread board edge to the doors. 90 minute in the shop, today...still have to bring the clothes upstairs from the dryer.. Stay tuned..
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3 planes...first 2 were easy... Handsome, ain't they...spent about $10 for these three "gems"...In the front is a Sargent V.B.M. #5408/408c (Stanley #3 sized) mainly a lot of wire wheel work, a few spots needed a spritz of PBblaster to loosen bolts up....sole was "groovy" Yeah....refinished the wooden parts...old finish was flaking off.... NOT Rosewood, Sargent used East African Mahogany. Base has a coat of penetrating oil...later was wiped down and a fresh coat of black was sprayed on.. Made about 1917. Metal parts were shined up, chipbreaker mated to the back of the iron. Iron's back was flatten, a single 25 degree bevel was sharpened and stropped.. Test drive showed a few nicks still remained in the edge...will remove those in the next sharpening...meanwhile The second plane is a Stanley No. 4, Type 20 (1962-67) with the dark, Royal Navy blue colour scheme... This spot was packed solid in nasty wood fibres, spider nests....and just plain dirt...wire wheels and wire brush to clean out... Lever was frozen in place, both of them ( Goop-off soak, then oiled) Grinder has a 6" brass wire wheel installed... Been sitting a while. Edge was chewed up a bit...new grinder to regrind the 25 degree bevel needed....then 2 oil stones, 2 grits of sandpaper (1,000 and 2,000 grit) then stropped on the buffer wheel on the old grinder.. Bolt for this wheel was wire wheeled clean, along with the rusty stuff. Brass shined up, dab of oil on the threads... Same with the rest of the metal parts....plated stuff was buffed out. Threads cleared and oiled up...test track set up..again.. BTW...The flaky black paint of the handles? Gone, replace by a coat of Gunstock stain, and then a few coats of BLO... Test tracks, one of Pine.. Took a few tries to get the setting just right... And, since I also do a lot of work with Ash.. 1 x 2 is now smooooth and flat.. Looks more like a plane, now. I left the yellow logo alone, the cleaned up Royal Navy Blue was given a wipe down with a thin coat of 3in1 oil.. Which brings us to the third plane... With "Issues" Lots of issues... Made by Millers Falls, sold at your local Sears store as a Craftsman....turned out, this plane had been broken in two...then brazed back together... Wasn't too bad on the right side ( biggie blob inside, though) but the left side? Not his best work.....checked that sole for flat....was more like a banana, or, high in the middle, low on the ends ( OHIO?) well, we have a beltsander, with 60-80grit belt onboard....took a long time (for me) checking with a straight edge every 5 minutes ( and let the cast iron cool down a bit...) Finally..other than a hollow up front, and a little spot on the "fantail" I think I can live with that...flat the rest of the sole. All this done with the frog and handles still in place...the frog? Needed a soak, and a hammerdrill, to loosen two bolts. Frog was too far forward, made it hard to fully engage the slots in the bolts. Once they were loose enough, the frog was slid to the rear..then removed. End of troubles? Nope....took the wheel off, or tried to....got almost to the end of the threads...bolt had come loose, too.....Backed the bolt out of the wheel, clean the rusty blob out of the threads. At least it made it easier to clean up the rest of the frog.. OEM chipbreaker was too rusted on the end..tossed it, found a 2" wide spare....mated it to the cleaned and straighten iron. Iron was bent, curved, pitted...Ball pean hammer time! grind the pitted edge away, started a new bevel. derusted the now straight iron. Back is NOW flat... Cleaned the hardware..brass had been plated..had. New spritz of blue into the logo...then wiped away the excess.... I was going to sharpen the iron...noticed the cup of water was empty...and, I was covered in cast iron grinding dust...even me beard was black...decided that was enough, closed the shop. The Sargent plane took a couple hours, took longer to sharpen. The Stanley? 90 minutes, total....The Craftsman? still working on it....will be a while.. Stay tuned
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Hi, I have four hand planes that I 'd like to sell, but unfortunately I don't know much about hand planes. even the identification / model can be a job to figure out I'm finding out. I've had these since new, early to mid 80's I'm guessing, and never really used them. There is no rust on them, all in pretty good condition in my opinion. Two of them are Stanley's, and the other two are Sears, all of them were made in England. The Stanley bench plane is a 14", and the Sears bench plane is a 9". The Stanley block plane is a low angle, and the Sears is a regular block plane. Any idea of the approximate worth of these planes ? Or do you need more info ?
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Spotted these in the background of a sale ad that is selling other items and have sent a note to the seller asking if they are for available as they appears to have a price tag in the photo. Picture shows poor details and is the only 1 I have available. Anybody recognize these items and are they significant in any way such as value or usefulness. They look specialized like they run in a guide a a miter plane would. I have not seen any planes quite like this before and not sure what they are? It looks like the left one is two pieces I.e. plane and track or slide while right one appears reverse of left but I can’t see place for an iron on the one so?.. Anyone offer any sage advise here? I would like to be smarter about them if they are available. They look a bit incomplete and in disrepair. Maybe not even wood tools...? The strange stuff likes to suck me in and as luck would have it, I have the day off and could pursue these...I apologize that the picture kinda sucks....
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Meandered down to the shop this evening.....decided to at least try a few things out.....tried the Aldi's crosscut saw to make four pieces of pine parts... It do cut fast, and it even tried to cut me thumb. Got two small holes. It had hopped up out of a cut. The 1x6 I am using was a little out of....focus. Needed a plane to bring things back into line.. I planed the two matching sides together, edge grain and end grain. I wanted them to match, and be at least close to square...Plane didn't do too bad on the end grain.. Millers Falls No. 11 junior jack plane. Once all of that was done. I got out the combo square, and marked a line 1/2" in from the face of each board. Bandsaw time... Not the greatest resaw cut, but it needs a new blade...someday. Opened this one up like a book.. Well, we have ways. Grabbed the old cambered jack plane.. Going right across the grain, this isn't the time for see-through shavings. Once it was close to flat, a second plane came out... Have a bit of trouble with that old knot....but, I kept at it. Finally got the four of them close enough to work with... Will let this set a day or so. IF they want to move a bit. I can come back and mill them flat for joinery work. Igor, clean up on Aisle #1! Lower back says it be "Quitting Time!" So I guess I' meander back upstairs. Knee held up decently, lower back didn't. And, somehow, I picked up a cut on the back of my hand.....didn't feel a thing, looked down and had a leak going on. Yep, time to quit for the day. Next up? Finger joints by mallet & chisel. Stay tuned...
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I have been posting some of my furniture builds. Here are are few of the tools I have made. There are details and pictorial on my website for those interested in making their own: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/index.html A few of these have been featured in Fine Woodworking magazine. This is one - a bridle plough plane ... The plough is based on the Mathieson Bridle Plough. The “bridle” is the method in which the fence is attached to the arms. For centuries many methods have been offered to ensure that the fence runs parallel to the skate. The bridle appears to have been one of the best, but it is difficult to build, and so few were produced. The wood is West Australian She-oak. Its box plus set of 8 irons ... Since we are on boxes, the box alongside was an entry in tool-making competition across Australia in 2009. I think it placed third. Not great images, my apology ... Jarrah box with drawer (containing drill bits and drivers) ... Inside the box is a small brace (throw of 5") and a screwdriver in She-oak. This was carved from a solid billet. The hand rest is Tasmanian Blackwood. Regards from Perth Derek
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So I had hoped to get to Lee Valley while in Vancouver before we left for our Alaskan Cruise but the promise of going to Butchart Gardens one day took the whole day and the flight from DC to Vancouver left the first day with us exhausted so there was no getting to Lee Valley as hoped. And flying back from Fairbanks niched any chance. So as much as I wanted to I'm lead to deciding on a low angle block plane which I intend to use for taking the edge off some corners and for planing end grain which I hear it does quite well. Better than sanding if truth be told. I need it to be perfectly flat on the sides for end grain and using a homemade sled which Lee Valley shows works quite well using plywood and making the groove for the plane. Of course they show this for use with their special shooting plane but should work equally well for the bench plane I would think, maybe a slight variation if needed. The second plane I see a need for would be a nice dado plane. Now maybe not totally necessary but I can see a real need for its use in some of my works and plans for other projects. I'm trying to blend hand tools with these wonderful machine I already have. Along those lines I'll need to start thinking of a good rip saw, crosscut saw, and dovetail saw. For now I'm working on the hand planes. With the #4 Smoothing plane and the #62 Jack Plane already secured I think these next ones will fit fine. Just need to determine which ones. From what I saw at the Woodworking Show a few months back the Lee Valley Low Angle Block plane should do very well. Any corrections? Suggestions otherwise? The Dado Plane, well I haven't looked at any so I'm wide open to good suggestions. I rather get one good one then something that really isn't worth it. Old/new, really doesn't matter. Doing a good job is what I'm interested in. Good quality. Thanks for listening..... -Steve
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Today I finished another batch of 8 wooden planes so I will bore you with the pictures. Herb
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Lee Valley Custom Shop is now open...
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The first one was that little guy that hurt my hand to use. I thought if I made it larger to get a better grip it would be better. But not so, still was a pretty plane but not so pretty to use, Then I fixed it on the 3rd try. Pic 1. is the first one you have already seen. The last picture is a reject block plane I threw in to fill out the upload. For some reason the pictures loaded before my Text ??????? Herb
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Been a while since this was mentioned, so I thought I'd mention it again. I knew Patrick years ago when he was active on "old tools" mail list (predecessor of "forums") and how I'd waste my lunch time at work. Even before eBay drove up prices of old Stanleys, for a while. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
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I got to thinking that maybe since I had a couple of plane blades left that I would make a couple more planes. This time I used some Russian Birch Plywood scraps I wanted to use up. Russian birch is not as good of a grade as Baltic birch, but there was a time not so long ago where the Chinese had bought up all the BB and we couldn't get any, so the lumber yards here stocked 4X8 sheets of Russian birch. Also I had a piece of Purple Heart that I have been trying to find a project to make out of it. I found out one thing when I finished the other planes I gave them a coat of shellac and sanded off the grain, then another coat of shellac and then went to the water based Acrylic 50/50 mix. On the purple heart plane I didn't want the yellow in the shellac messing with the purple color, I wanted that purple just like the raw wood. So I decided to seal it with the WB Acrylic. Big mistake , it turned the purple heart a dark greenish black , like swamp mud. so after messing with it,I finally sanded it down to raw wood and put 3 coats of shellac on it. Herb Herb
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As I posted in another thread I have started making 18-20 wooden block planes that I made 4 several years ago copied from a Wood magazine. Since I have a presentation at our local WW club, I plan on giving a presentation on how to make these. I figure if I give each member that comes to the meeting one of these to hold and examine while I go through the steps of building one, it might be more clear in their mind how to do it themselves. And they might not fall asleep during the presentation. Yesterday I showed the blocks glued up for the bodies, and the one I am using for the pattern. The next step was to roughcut out the 1/4" thick sides and sand edges to finish size. After they were sanded close to size I cut the blocks I had previously glued up 4" from the heel of the plane to the mouth of the blade slot on a 45°angle. The cut-off is then turned over and butted up tight to the heel piece,thus creating a "V" for the plane blade to rest in. and the sides are glued on to hold the assembly together. It takes lots of clamps to dlamp these up , I ran of two planes short and had to wait to finish the final two.
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but I don't hold a candle to these guys. I caught this on another forum and thought it might of interest here. The Japanese really take hand plane skills seriously. Skip to the 2 minute mark to get to the real stuff.
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Have ya'll heard of Jim Bode Tools, ya, pretty cool. They are advertised in the MWTCA Gristmill. Have fun! https://www.jimbodetools.com/collections/whats-new
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On another site, there was a thread about wanting to use a #8 Jointer plane....in making boxes and trays... I made up a little show & tell.....the OP has a #62 ( I think) and was wanting to buy a #8. A #5 Jack plane is roughly the same size as a #62, so.. In my case, this would be the Millers Falls #14 Jack plane sitting beside my Stanley #8.....bit of a size difference? Jack has a 2" wide iron, the #8 has a 2-5/8" wide cutter...Hmmm, maybe if we try a Jumbo Jack instead? An inch or so longer, and the cutter is a 2-3/8" wide....rather an "overweight" Jack plane? So, what would be a little easier to use than the #8? Couple of inches shorter...about a pound or so lighter, and has a 2-3/8" wide cutter..Stanley No. 7c, Type 9 See a difference? Which would YOU want to push around all day long? Well, there IS a shorter version out there.. Stanley called it a small jointer, a Stanley No.6c, type 10....about 6" shorter than the #8, and has a 2-3/8" wide iron... All three are indeed "Jointers" Which would you want to push around all day long....Me..I'd rather push the "Spare Tire" around.. 2 patent date, low knob Stanley #4.....tape is for a better grip. Sweaty hands, after a LONG day, I need the grip. That concludes the Show & Tell, for today...any questions?
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Like the title says.. Some have already seen this plane til....those block planes across the top? Are the main users. Half are low angle ones. Some of the "special" planes. The old block plane is great for knocking off excess dried glue.. There is one thing about these wood bodied planes...they weigh a bit less than the iron versions. That red jack? That is my "scrub" plane. The Big Guys. The Millers Falls #14 because it is used as a big smooth plane. A #8, another #7, and a #81 try plane. You need your Wheaties, before a full day of moving these around..... Somewhere in the shop, there is a third spokeshave.....I tend to treat them as planes. The #45....7 planes in one. IF anyone wants to see what is on that shelf.....I might bring them out into the daylight. Depending on the project, there are 6 or 7 planes that always seem to get used..... Depending on the size of the project....some will get swapped out for another size. The #7 may turn into a #6, or a #5-1/2. The #4 may get changed out to a #3 size. That #5 may get replaced by the 5-1/4 as a jack. The #5 has a bit of camber to the edge of the iron, the 5-1/4 does not. After a long day of pushing planes around...smaller ones tend to come out....old arms tend to get tired.
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Day one is done.....took two trips to do that, and bring the stuff home. Along with all the normal Friday stuff... Planes? Paid for three of them.. These two and a Great Neck thing hat was shaped like a block plane. I switched the front knob over to the Stanley No.4c, from the Stanley Defiance No. 3. The #4c is a type 10. More about these two later... Saws? It is a Disston....for tree trimming. Ugly teeth award.. Meh...have a few branches that need to be trimmed back....and First of two $1 handsaws...this is the better of the two. It even has a nib... Both of these $1 saws are 26" long. As for number 2.. Warranted Superior on the medallion. Bought this just for the hardware....not the tape, though.. Not sure IF this is a bolt, or a rivet....goes all the way through. And next.. Between the pruning saw and these items, I spent $5.25 Found the hammer head in one box, the handle in another. iron was a quarter. Largest hex key is 5/16". Straight jaw is almost brand new... Then there was this box.. Wasn't a full box, but.. Left side of the box.. And the right side. There were tapered shank bits.. Handsome, ain't they? I'm still digging through the rest, but there were another type of bit.. The expansive bit is a Craftsman, and goes out to 1-1/4". haven't cleaned the others up yet. May go back and see IF a pair of almost brand new braces are still on a table, tomorrow. Day One is done, day Two is about to begin...
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I had an English made stanley #4 that I wasn't too fond of. Light blue japanning, kind of loose with the settings.. I had traded off the Sargent #3 Fulton for a Craftsman #4 that the owner wasn't able to fix up. It had those grooved sides, and the worst frog seat I have seen, somehow managed to get it to work.... So, today while out and about, I stopped in at a place, looking for Rusty & Krusty Tools.....Found a nice Stanley #4c on the shelf...checked the price tag...OUCH! $45?! Hmmm... Got to thinking while driving home ( not sure which is more dangerous, me driving, or me thinking..) Decided to pack up those two troublesome planes, and go back to do a little trading.... Set my two on the counter, went to the shelf..there was a second plane sitting there, right beside the Stanley....."Straight up trade? My two for these two? Deal?" Walked out of there with two decent planes.. So, here they are, before I started to clean up their act. Stanley #4c still with that $45 price tag....The one behind it is a Millers Falls No.9 About the same size. The stanley is still a made in England plane, but a lot older than the one I traded it for. Handles may be bakelite, but that is easy to change....That is a Model number and a "Made in England" cast behind the frog "Tropical Hardwood" for the handles....will do a bit of research to see what "Type" this is. Millers Falls is a smooth sole, the Stanley is "Groovy" Maybe after I get a table done, I can get these two fixed up? Straight up trade, 2 planes, for 2 planes, zero cash needed...not too bad a day?
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Trying to identify an old plane I've had for 40 years or more. The only markings are "No. 5" and "Made in England" Don't know if this was the original colour, or if it has been painted. And the fact that most of the name is missing doesn't help either! Any ideas? John
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This is the middle shelf in one of my cabinets. Most of the items here are small finger planes, but there are levels and bevel gauges and other things that need a place to rest. couldnt get get a good picture. I don't think I'm a horder yet!
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Needed to cutter a couple rebates in the back corner posts of that dresser, to house a plywood back. Whether to use the 45...or..the 78? Clamped a side to the bench......but first, I needed to 1) dig the 78 out of it's box, and sharpen the cutter, 2) reset the 45 with the no. 17 straight cutter, and sharpen that cutter. The 78 also had a bit of rust starting to "bloom" so that got cleaned up, too. Set the 45 up Was trying to set the fence for a 5/8" wide cut...wound up being just over 1/2".....no biggie Next I set up the 78.. I got it a bit closer to that 5/8" wide. Yeah, got the first side in the clamps on the bench.. Almost too big? And then tried the Wards 78.. That big, old knot at the far end? the 78 just cut right on through there. Thumb did get a bit sore, trying to hold the plane steady. Have to keep the fence against the work, while making all of this mess.. Once the first couple passes are done with a finely set iron, then you can hog the rest off. Then a final fine pass. Ok, now for the 45. clamped the other side into the bench.. As you can see, it also cuts a decent rebate. This side had a pair of knots...the cutter on the 45 does not like knots, and chattered the entire time when going over them. still cut them, just protested. Lots of shavings as well, just...different.. As there isn't the adjustment for depth like on the 78. Once the depth is set, that's it, unless you want to stop and loosen and adjust and tighten back up. PITA. But, the plane is much easier on the left hand to hold and push the plane. Still have to push on the fence to keep it against the work. As for it's rebate? Both are about the same. I set things for a 1/4" depth and around 1/2" or so wide. IF you don't mind a very sore thumb, a Stanley/Wards No. 78 is a nice way to do these. It will also do this on the ends of a board, as it has a nicker for cross grain work. IF you have the Stanley #45 or it's relatives, it works nicely here as well. HEAVIER is all. The 78 seems to weigh about half what the 45 did today. The 45 is easier on the hands, though. Well, test is done, I have some other chores to finish up, today.. Need to cut a few panels, to finish up side #2....
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