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Found 77 results

  1. The first one was that little guy that hurt my hand to use. I thought if I made it larger to get a better grip it would be better. But not so, still was a pretty plane but not so pretty to use, Then I fixed it on the 3rd try. Pic 1. is the first one you have already seen. The last picture is a reject block plane I threw in to fill out the upload. For some reason the pictures loaded before my Text ??????? Herb
  2. What's on your work bench? This is the official topic for images and friendly chatter regarding that all important surface, the personal statement of your shop, the steadfast friend we can always count on, the space of your shop that nobody knows better than you, we are talking about the almighty "Work Bench". Submit your images now! That's right, don't clean it up, don't be embarrassed, the messier the better, or if there is nothing on it at all, that is fine too. If you have not touched your bench in years, and you have taken a break from woodworking and have boxes piled on it, we want that image too! All images are welcome. Spirit of Topic This is a Hit-n-Run topic, as you walk past your bench, whip out your camera or smart phone, and snap a shot, load it up here. No need for text explanations if you don't want too. To kick this off, walk out in your shop and snap a picture of your bench surface now, and lets get this topic rolling. This will be an ongoing topic, for you to share images of your bench top today, and every day. Types of benches Some of us have small benches, some of us have big benches, some of us use a space in our dining room, some may have a picnic table they use for a bench, and some of us may have a bench of all benches, the traditional joiners bench, or a beautiful full cabinet shakers bench. No matter what you call your work surface, no matter what your work surface looks like, we want to see images of your bench! Thank you in advance to the participants!
  3. Been a while since this was mentioned, so I thought I'd mention it again. I knew Patrick years ago when he was active on "old tools" mail list (predecessor of "forums") and how I'd waste my lunch time at work. Even before eBay drove up prices of old Stanleys, for a while. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
  4. Today I finish sanded 4 planes and got the 1st coat of shellac on them to see if any marks show up that I need to sand out.
  5. I got to thinking that maybe since I had a couple of plane blades left that I would make a couple more planes. This time I used some Russian Birch Plywood scraps I wanted to use up. Russian birch is not as good of a grade as Baltic birch, but there was a time not so long ago where the Chinese had bought up all the BB and we couldn't get any, so the lumber yards here stocked 4X8 sheets of Russian birch. Also I had a piece of Purple Heart that I have been trying to find a project to make out of it. I found out one thing when I finished the other planes I gave them a coat of shellac and sanded off the grain, then another coat of shellac and then went to the water based Acrylic 50/50 mix. On the purple heart plane I didn't want the yellow in the shellac messing with the purple color, I wanted that purple just like the raw wood. So I decided to seal it with the WB Acrylic. Big mistake , it turned the purple heart a dark greenish black , like swamp mud. so after messing with it,I finally sanded it down to raw wood and put 3 coats of shellac on it. Herb Herb
  6. As I posted in another thread I have started making 18-20 wooden block planes that I made 4 several years ago copied from a Wood magazine. Since I have a presentation at our local WW club, I plan on giving a presentation on how to make these. I figure if I give each member that comes to the meeting one of these to hold and examine while I go through the steps of building one, it might be more clear in their mind how to do it themselves. And they might not fall asleep during the presentation. Yesterday I showed the blocks glued up for the bodies, and the one I am using for the pattern. The next step was to roughcut out the 1/4" thick sides and sand edges to finish size. After they were sanded close to size I cut the blocks I had previously glued up 4" from the heel of the plane to the mouth of the blade slot on a 45°angle. The cut-off is then turned over and butted up tight to the heel piece,thus creating a "V" for the plane blade to rest in. and the sides are glued on to hold the assembly together. It takes lots of clamps to dlamp these up , I ran of two planes short and had to wait to finish the final two.
  7. but I don't hold a candle to these guys. I caught this on another forum and thought it might of interest here. The Japanese really take hand plane skills seriously. Skip to the 2 minute mark to get to the real stuff.
  8. Among the split-tip screwdrivers, all are one brand except the one at the bottom which is labelled "Klein"; the rest are Quick-Wedge. I still have a lot of work to do on the planes, as neither one has been really cleaned up well. The Reed & Prince is an old Craftsman i bought many years ago - note how the tip is much different from the look-alike Phillips.
  9. Stumbled upon this site while researching a Victor smoothing plane. Lots of good information here about dating tools, restoration, etc.
  10. Have ya'll heard of Jim Bode Tools, ya, pretty cool. They are advertised in the MWTCA Gristmill. Have fun! https://www.jimbodetools.com/collections/whats-new
  11. On another site, there was a thread about wanting to use a #8 Jointer plane....in making boxes and trays... I made up a little show & tell.....the OP has a #62 ( I think) and was wanting to buy a #8. A #5 Jack plane is roughly the same size as a #62, so.. In my case, this would be the Millers Falls #14 Jack plane sitting beside my Stanley #8.....bit of a size difference? Jack has a 2" wide iron, the #8 has a 2-5/8" wide cutter...Hmmm, maybe if we try a Jumbo Jack instead? An inch or so longer, and the cutter is a 2-3/8" wide....rather an "overweight" Jack plane? So, what would be a little easier to use than the #8? Couple of inches shorter...about a pound or so lighter, and has a 2-3/8" wide cutter..Stanley No. 7c, Type 9 See a difference? Which would YOU want to push around all day long? Well, there IS a shorter version out there.. Stanley called it a small jointer, a Stanley No.6c, type 10....about 6" shorter than the #8, and has a 2-3/8" wide iron... All three are indeed "Jointers" Which would you want to push around all day long....Me..I'd rather push the "Spare Tire" around.. 2 patent date, low knob Stanley #4.....tape is for a better grip. Sweaty hands, after a LONG day, I need the grip. That concludes the Show & Tell, for today...any questions?
  12. Like the title says.. Some have already seen this plane til....those block planes across the top? Are the main users. Half are low angle ones. Some of the "special" planes. The old block plane is great for knocking off excess dried glue.. There is one thing about these wood bodied planes...they weigh a bit less than the iron versions. That red jack? That is my "scrub" plane. The Big Guys. The Millers Falls #14 because it is used as a big smooth plane. A #8, another #7, and a #81 try plane. You need your Wheaties, before a full day of moving these around..... Somewhere in the shop, there is a third spokeshave.....I tend to treat them as planes. The #45....7 planes in one. IF anyone wants to see what is on that shelf.....I might bring them out into the daylight. Depending on the project, there are 6 or 7 planes that always seem to get used..... Depending on the size of the project....some will get swapped out for another size. The #7 may turn into a #6, or a #5-1/2. The #4 may get changed out to a #3 size. That #5 may get replaced by the 5-1/4 as a jack. The #5 has a bit of camber to the edge of the iron, the 5-1/4 does not. After a long day of pushing planes around...smaller ones tend to come out....old arms tend to get tired.
  13. Rehabs the rest of the weekend, maybe? One Garage sale...all it said was.."Tools" Boss spent more than I did...but, she wasn't buying tools. I spent around $9 this morning...picked five tools Just had to shine up that medallion, to see what this saw was. . Hmmm, ring a bell? Saw is 26" long, has 8ppi, a skew back, and is wickedly SHARP. Paid a dollar for it... This be a $2 all-steel Shelton block plane....next.. This be a Millers Falls No. 900, I think. made after the Mohawk-Shelbourne line was ended...mid 50s? $2.....have had to fix the rear handle, this time it was broke. Front knob has "issues" ( cracks), Lever cap was replaced. Both handle bolts are one piece..bolts. And they were bent. Now, how good is your French? These two were also $2 each. Logo on the iron? A single eyeball means this is about..1875 era. Goldenberg Acier Fondu ( cast steel) Warantie ( warranted) ) This is an adjuster, there is a pin from the iron, into the head of the bolt. Other end of the bolt engages two square nuts, these push against a notch in the bed for the iron. All this adjusts is to retract the iron. Irons are both 1-5/8" wide....bodies are about 9-1/2" long. Both have chip breakers.....neither of them are attach to the irons. These two will take a bit of time to fix up. Five items = $9.....I turned down three Handyman planes, a beat up mitre box and quite a few other "treasures"....figured I had done enough for one sale... Not too bad of a morning?
  14. I read with great interest and relief for the outlook that James Krenov had with his hand tools, and sharpening, and maintenance. For years I have been put off by the many sharpening gadgets, guides, holders, science, bevel up, bevel down, yadayadayada. I have always thought that folks can get wound waaaay too tightly over the science of woodworking, and tooling, so much so they forget the joy of the actual woodwork. James Krenov had a very lax position on the sharpening of his tools, specifically hand plane blades. He sharpened free hand, never spent too much time doing it, never worried about secondary bevels, or angles, and he used oil stones. Honestly, growing up as a teenager and learning woodwork in my dads shop, Krenov's method of sharpening is the exact way my dad taught me, just put the cutter up on an oil stone, keep the angle around 45 degrees, and do the fingernail test, if it looks good, it's ready. Here is a quote from Krenov that I love: What Krenov said about sharpening about sums it all up for many of us. I used to use a roller guide (on and off, depending on the latest fad) to support my chisels and plane irons for sharpening, not anymore, I have been free handing it most of my woodworking life and I am very happy with the results. I love James Krenov approach on this subject, basically he's just saying, get over it! It's just a tool! And have fun! My eyes glaze over when the sharpening gurus start talking about angles, micro bevels, body positioning, and more, jeez, get over it, it's just woodworking! If free hand sharpening on an old oil stone is good enough for Krenov, it's good enough for me, just like ol Dad taught me! And if you are a user of the sharpening guides, and it works for you, stick with it! There are many sharpening jigs out there for the woodworker and it's a great aid, I must admit I can get into the jigs really easy, but in my puritan quest as of late, I am liking free hand sharpening more and more.
  15. This past week I purchased this Stanley No. 71 Router plane and was glad to add it to my collection. I haven't done anything to it yet as far as cleaning it up. It has a patent date of March 4 '84. This is a Type 4 No 71 Router Plane. This plane was only made for a three year period in this configuration so this is a fairly rare plane to find. I already had a No 71 Type 8. They type 8 was made between 1908 and 1915. Also in the collection I had two Stanley No 71 1/2 planes. The first one is a No 71 1/2 Type 4. The 71 1/2 was made because the 71 originally had a closed throat and then they opened it up. So many of the guys liked the closed throat they brought it back out as a 71 1/2. My other 71 1/2 is a type 5. I am missing the depth gauge on one of them and I just noticed I dropped the blade out of one of them and it wasn't in the picture. Anyway, here is my Router Plane Collection. Looking forward to getting back out and doing more Patriot Picking!!
  16. On the road trip from the Lumberjocks get together......trying to make it around curves and over mountains...back end of the pickup truck was FULL. Kept looking for ANY Antique Stores / Malls......got back into OHIO before we even found one open. To even get out of the Shindig, we had to load up as much of Charles Neil's "scrap wood bin" as we could. This is about half of my "share"..the rest is further back in that corner. Anyway, this is about tools.. These two are the "keepers" of the BUNCH... This one is only for the handle, plate is junk. Not too sure about this thingy... Anyway, I sold Charles 3 saws, and fixed up another for him....I had to haul all the rest of his saws home.... There are TWO Butcher's saws on the bottom. Most of these will be for parts. (free saws...) There was a bit of trading going on. Charles had a top shelf of planes and tools he did not want...I got two planes.. That little piece of metal is my plane stop dog. The plane is a Type 7, No. 8 Stanley Jointer plane. Next.. Type 1, Millers Falls No. 11 Junior Jack.. Also tossed my way.. A No. 85 Stearns hinge gauge. A few irons for planes.. Not too sure about the block plane ones, there are 3 from IBC for bench planes. One still in the wrapper is a 2" wide one. Was a few other odds and ends....oh, about that Antique store? They also sold Guitars and accessories, too.... Had to make it a quick stop, though, had a nasty Thunderstorm headed that way. Made one $9.99 +tax buy in the store... It even had a twist drill bit made for this style of drill. Stanley 6" sweep brace. With a 7/16" drill bit. Long weekend, had a LOT of fun, had a great host. LOTS of food. Met some new people, too. Was told to edit Charles out of this picture, as for these other two Hooligans...(note the SMALL planer?) Radial arm saw now has a router instead of a saw....pretty country down there and another.. This was from US 50, on the way home to Ohio. Right after we passed a group of "bikers" setting up to pedal up and down these little hills... Not a bad weekend road trip...
  17. Day one is done.....took two trips to do that, and bring the stuff home. Along with all the normal Friday stuff... Planes? Paid for three of them.. These two and a Great Neck thing hat was shaped like a block plane. I switched the front knob over to the Stanley No.4c, from the Stanley Defiance No. 3. The #4c is a type 10. More about these two later... Saws? It is a Disston....for tree trimming. Ugly teeth award.. Meh...have a few branches that need to be trimmed back....and First of two $1 handsaws...this is the better of the two. It even has a nib... Both of these $1 saws are 26" long. As for number 2.. Warranted Superior on the medallion. Bought this just for the hardware....not the tape, though.. Not sure IF this is a bolt, or a rivet....goes all the way through. And next.. Between the pruning saw and these items, I spent $5.25 Found the hammer head in one box, the handle in another. iron was a quarter. Largest hex key is 5/16". Straight jaw is almost brand new... Then there was this box.. Wasn't a full box, but.. Left side of the box.. And the right side. There were tapered shank bits.. Handsome, ain't they? I'm still digging through the rest, but there were another type of bit.. The expansive bit is a Craftsman, and goes out to 1-1/4". haven't cleaned the others up yet. May go back and see IF a pair of almost brand new braces are still on a table, tomorrow. Day One is done, day Two is about to begin...
  18. I had an English made stanley #4 that I wasn't too fond of. Light blue japanning, kind of loose with the settings.. I had traded off the Sargent #3 Fulton for a Craftsman #4 that the owner wasn't able to fix up. It had those grooved sides, and the worst frog seat I have seen, somehow managed to get it to work.... So, today while out and about, I stopped in at a place, looking for Rusty & Krusty Tools.....Found a nice Stanley #4c on the shelf...checked the price tag...OUCH! $45?! Hmmm... Got to thinking while driving home ( not sure which is more dangerous, me driving, or me thinking..) Decided to pack up those two troublesome planes, and go back to do a little trading.... Set my two on the counter, went to the shelf..there was a second plane sitting there, right beside the Stanley....."Straight up trade? My two for these two? Deal?" Walked out of there with two decent planes.. So, here they are, before I started to clean up their act. Stanley #4c still with that $45 price tag....The one behind it is a Millers Falls No.9 About the same size. The stanley is still a made in England plane, but a lot older than the one I traded it for. Handles may be bakelite, but that is easy to change....That is a Model number and a "Made in England" cast behind the frog "Tropical Hardwood" for the handles....will do a bit of research to see what "Type" this is. Millers Falls is a smooth sole, the Stanley is "Groovy" Maybe after I get a table done, I can get these two fixed up? Straight up trade, 2 planes, for 2 planes, zero cash needed...not too bad a day?
  19. Used a few "other" tools on the Box of Pine Used this to skinny the lip on the box.. Due to how I made the lip, it needed to be quite thin. I also used a block plane to bevel the top edges just a bit.. Stanley 60-1/2 "Cordovan" behind it is a Yankee No. 41 North Bros. push drill and a stanley spokeshave. The spokeshave worked over the repaired end, to get it flat. The drill? With hinges this small, you need a pilot drill for those tiny screws,,,,,along with a tiny screwdriver.. Made by MillersFalls, I think it is a phillips No. 0 it is smaller than a #1 size phillips. Just a few tools...
  20. HARO50

    Old plane ID

    Trying to identify an old plane I've had for 40 years or more. The only markings are "No. 5" and "Made in England" Don't know if this was the original colour, or if it has been painted. And the fact that most of the name is missing doesn't help either! Any ideas? John
  21. This is the middle shelf in one of my cabinets. Most of the items here are small finger planes, but there are levels and bevel gauges and other things that need a place to rest. couldnt get get a good picture. I don't think I'm a horder yet!
  22. Well, a Work In progess for the frame for the top panel to sit in. Added a few jigs to the bench, to hold things still long enough to at least smooth the parts. And get them flat. Just a sample of what I had to clean up... And there was one one the wood jaws of the end vise. Both had a "V" notch in them as well..holds angled parts better getting ahead of meself here...anyway, I used a few bench planes to flatten the parts down A cambered jack took down the saw marks fast, then a follow up with either a #6c, or a #5-1/2 plane... I was wading about ankle deep in those thingys. Next, I needed to set up the sash cutter, and get it working.. Ok, a few things going on here: yes, that is where the screws go when this frame is put together. No. not enough room to use a vise for this work....fence issues. Cordless drivers drill the pilot holes, and install/remove the screws as needed. Rounded part of the sash molding is to the outside. A BIG rebate is going on the inside. Cutter only goes so wide, which leaves a "lip" back there. had to bring out a few other tools for that rebate.. Mainly that #78. The woodie also got used, as did the block plane. The shorter ends weren't too bad to do, but the longer ones... One of the fastest ways to get rid of the 1/2" wide lip on these was that #5c laying there. Then clean the mess up with the usual suspects. Got all the rails done, finally, and decided to try a test fit.. Hmmm, needed a better square cut.....BRB.....ah, drill a small pilot hole, install the screw, for now need to do the other three corners, add some glue, and decide on the center brace. The frame will get a center piece, front to back, to help with the middle of the plywood panel. All of that, next time, on this Batty Channel...stay tuned for part 2.
  23. Needed to cutter a couple rebates in the back corner posts of that dresser, to house a plywood back. Whether to use the 45...or..the 78? Clamped a side to the bench......but first, I needed to 1) dig the 78 out of it's box, and sharpen the cutter, 2) reset the 45 with the no. 17 straight cutter, and sharpen that cutter. The 78 also had a bit of rust starting to "bloom" so that got cleaned up, too. Set the 45 up Was trying to set the fence for a 5/8" wide cut...wound up being just over 1/2".....no biggie Next I set up the 78.. I got it a bit closer to that 5/8" wide. Yeah, got the first side in the clamps on the bench.. Almost too big? And then tried the Wards 78.. That big, old knot at the far end? the 78 just cut right on through there. Thumb did get a bit sore, trying to hold the plane steady. Have to keep the fence against the work, while making all of this mess.. Once the first couple passes are done with a finely set iron, then you can hog the rest off. Then a final fine pass. Ok, now for the 45. clamped the other side into the bench.. As you can see, it also cuts a decent rebate. This side had a pair of knots...the cutter on the 45 does not like knots, and chattered the entire time when going over them. still cut them, just protested. Lots of shavings as well, just...different.. As there isn't the adjustment for depth like on the 78. Once the depth is set, that's it, unless you want to stop and loosen and adjust and tighten back up. PITA. But, the plane is much easier on the left hand to hold and push the plane. Still have to push on the fence to keep it against the work. As for it's rebate? Both are about the same. I set things for a 1/4" depth and around 1/2" or so wide. IF you don't mind a very sore thumb, a Stanley/Wards No. 78 is a nice way to do these. It will also do this on the ends of a board, as it has a nicker for cross grain work. IF you have the Stanley #45 or it's relatives, it works nicely here as well. HEAVIER is all. The 78 seems to weigh about half what the 45 did today. The 45 is easier on the hands, though. Well, test is done, I have some other chores to finish up, today.. Need to cut a few panels, to finish up side #2....
  24. Between using that Stanley 45 and learning this new camera's tricks. Made the lumber Run today....Cheapest 2 x 4 x8' was..$3.15....at Lowes.. Got three and a 2'x4' panel of 1/4" plywood. Good thing I get a 10% discount for my Mil. ID... Got the "Treasures" down to the shop, and let them sit awhile....had other things to do... had four more blanks to surface S4S.. Used a couple larger planes for that job ( and you'll what the camera is doing, too) That be a Stanley No.5-1/2, sitting in front of a stanley No. 6c Apparently, the "Macro" setting was still on? Or not.. Anyway, i got the four blanks looking decent enough.. seems to be a lot of glare off the overhead light, too. Decided to give the Stanley 45 a good run for it's money... Got going too fast and rough on one edge...and the depth stop came off the cutter. Got to checking the cutter....yuck, instead of a flat bevel, it has a rounded bevel...like a beer belly. Will take the time tomorrow to straight that out. Decided I could drill a hole into each end( tenons go there, anyway) and attach the blank to the side of the bench. Needed to counter sink the holes a bit, so the fence won't hit the screws.. Need to resize this one down, camera makes too big a picture. Brace is a 6" Keen Kutter, by Millers falls. Anyway, Once the blank was set up.. I could pound away with the 45. Once each blank was done, time to make some tenons on the ends. BTW: I cleaned the rebate with an older plane.. So,..tenons. I used the first blank to mark out where the tenons would be. Took the blank around to the mitre box and cut the shoulders... Has a stop cut set just about right. Once both ends were cut, I could walk back around to the bench, and do the cheek cut.. And let the waste drop off. Cleaned up with a chisel.. Kept trying to find out which setting worked the best, depending on how close I was....not always working out. I got two with both edges done, and one for the bottom of the side. The bottom and top blanks only have one molded edge. Legs started to get crampy....and even the ribs. Time to call it a day. Of the two blanks left to do ( out of five) both will be either a bottom or a top blank. Too many knots. New 2x4 should be able to give me a few knot-free blanks, I hope. Too tired and sore right now, maybe tomorrow,eh?

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