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Found 85 results

  1. What's on your work bench? This is the official topic for images and friendly chatter regarding that all important surface, the personal statement of your shop, the steadfast friend we can always count on, the space of your shop that nobody knows better than you, we are talking about the almighty "Work Bench". Submit your images now! That's right, don't clean it up, don't be embarrassed, the messier the better, or if there is nothing on it at all, that is fine too. If you have not touched your bench in years, and you have taken a break from woodworking and have boxes piled on it, we want that image too! All images are welcome. Spirit of Topic This is a Hit-n-Run topic, as you walk past your bench, whip out your camera or smart phone, and snap a shot, load it up here. No need for text explanations if you don't want too. To kick this off, walk out in your shop and snap a picture of your bench surface now, and lets get this topic rolling. This will be an ongoing topic, for you to share images of your bench top today, and every day. Types of benches Some of us have small benches, some of us have big benches, some of us use a space in our dining room, some may have a picnic table they use for a bench, and some of us may have a bench of all benches, the traditional joiners bench, or a beautiful full cabinet shakers bench. No matter what you call your work surface, no matter what your work surface looks like, we want to see images of your bench! Thank you in advance to the participants!
  2. 3 planes...first 2 were easy... Handsome, ain't they...spent about $10 for these three "gems"...In the front is a Sargent V.B.M. #5408/408c (Stanley #3 sized) mainly a lot of wire wheel work, a few spots needed a spritz of PBblaster to loosen bolts up....sole was "groovy" Yeah....refinished the wooden parts...old finish was flaking off.... NOT Rosewood, Sargent used East African Mahogany. Base has a coat of penetrating oil...later was wiped down and a fresh coat of black was sprayed on.. Made about 1917. Metal parts were shined up, chipbreaker mated to the back of the iron. Iron's back was flatten, a single 25 degree bevel was sharpened and stropped.. Test drive showed a few nicks still remained in the edge...will remove those in the next sharpening...meanwhile The second plane is a Stanley No. 4, Type 20 (1962-67) with the dark, Royal Navy blue colour scheme... This spot was packed solid in nasty wood fibres, spider nests....and just plain dirt...wire wheels and wire brush to clean out... Lever was frozen in place, both of them ( Goop-off soak, then oiled) Grinder has a 6" brass wire wheel installed... Been sitting a while. Edge was chewed up a bit...new grinder to regrind the 25 degree bevel needed....then 2 oil stones, 2 grits of sandpaper (1,000 and 2,000 grit) then stropped on the buffer wheel on the old grinder.. Bolt for this wheel was wire wheeled clean, along with the rusty stuff. Brass shined up, dab of oil on the threads... Same with the rest of the metal parts....plated stuff was buffed out. Threads cleared and oiled up...test track set up..again.. BTW...The flaky black paint of the handles? Gone, replace by a coat of Gunstock stain, and then a few coats of BLO... Test tracks, one of Pine.. Took a few tries to get the setting just right... And, since I also do a lot of work with Ash.. 1 x 2 is now smooooth and flat.. Looks more like a plane, now. I left the yellow logo alone, the cleaned up Royal Navy Blue was given a wipe down with a thin coat of 3in1 oil.. Which brings us to the third plane... With "Issues" Lots of issues... Made by Millers Falls, sold at your local Sears store as a Craftsman....turned out, this plane had been broken in two...then brazed back together... Wasn't too bad on the right side ( biggie blob inside, though) but the left side? Not his best work.....checked that sole for flat....was more like a banana, or, high in the middle, low on the ends ( OHIO?) well, we have a beltsander, with 60-80grit belt onboard....took a long time (for me) checking with a straight edge every 5 minutes ( and let the cast iron cool down a bit...) Finally..other than a hollow up front, and a little spot on the "fantail" I think I can live with that...flat the rest of the sole. All this done with the frog and handles still in place...the frog? Needed a soak, and a hammerdrill, to loosen two bolts. Frog was too far forward, made it hard to fully engage the slots in the bolts. Once they were loose enough, the frog was slid to the rear..then removed. End of troubles? Nope....took the wheel off, or tried to....got almost to the end of the threads...bolt had come loose, too.....Backed the bolt out of the wheel, clean the rusty blob out of the threads. At least it made it easier to clean up the rest of the frog.. OEM chipbreaker was too rusted on the end..tossed it, found a 2" wide spare....mated it to the cleaned and straighten iron. Iron was bent, curved, pitted...Ball pean hammer time! grind the pitted edge away, started a new bevel. derusted the now straight iron. Back is NOW flat... Cleaned the hardware..brass had been plated..had. New spritz of blue into the logo...then wiped away the excess.... I was going to sharpen the iron...noticed the cup of water was empty...and, I was covered in cast iron grinding dust...even me beard was black...decided that was enough, closed the shop. The Sargent plane took a couple hours, took longer to sharpen. The Stanley? 90 minutes, total....The Craftsman? still working on it....will be a while.. Stay tuned
  3. Hi, I have four hand planes that I 'd like to sell, but unfortunately I don't know much about hand planes. even the identification / model can be a job to figure out I'm finding out. I've had these since new, early to mid 80's I'm guessing, and never really used them. There is no rust on them, all in pretty good condition in my opinion. Two of them are Stanley's, and the other two are Sears, all of them were made in England. The Stanley bench plane is a 14", and the Sears bench plane is a 9". The Stanley block plane is a low angle, and the Sears is a regular block plane. Any idea of the approximate worth of these planes ? Or do you need more info ?
  4. Spotted these in the background of a sale ad that is selling other items and have sent a note to the seller asking if they are for available as they appears to have a price tag in the photo. Picture shows poor details and is the only 1 I have available. Anybody recognize these items and are they significant in any way such as value or usefulness. They look specialized like they run in a guide a a miter plane would. I have not seen any planes quite like this before and not sure what they are? It looks like the left one is two pieces I.e. plane and track or slide while right one appears reverse of left but I can’t see place for an iron on the one so?.. Anyone offer any sage advise here? I would like to be smarter about them if they are available. They look a bit incomplete and in disrepair. Maybe not even wood tools...? The strange stuff likes to suck me in and as luck would have it, I have the day off and could pursue these...I apologize that the picture kinda sucks....
  5. Meandered down to the shop this evening.....decided to at least try a few things out.....tried the Aldi's crosscut saw to make four pieces of pine parts... It do cut fast, and it even tried to cut me thumb. Got two small holes. It had hopped up out of a cut. The 1x6 I am using was a little out of....focus. Needed a plane to bring things back into line.. I planed the two matching sides together, edge grain and end grain. I wanted them to match, and be at least close to square...Plane didn't do too bad on the end grain.. Millers Falls No. 11 junior jack plane. Once all of that was done. I got out the combo square, and marked a line 1/2" in from the face of each board. Bandsaw time... Not the greatest resaw cut, but it needs a new blade...someday. Opened this one up like a book.. Well, we have ways. Grabbed the old cambered jack plane.. Going right across the grain, this isn't the time for see-through shavings. Once it was close to flat, a second plane came out... Have a bit of trouble with that old knot....but, I kept at it. Finally got the four of them close enough to work with... Will let this set a day or so. IF they want to move a bit. I can come back and mill them flat for joinery work. Igor, clean up on Aisle #1! Lower back says it be "Quitting Time!" So I guess I' meander back upstairs. Knee held up decently, lower back didn't. And, somehow, I picked up a cut on the back of my hand.....didn't feel a thing, looked down and had a leak going on. Yep, time to quit for the day. Next up? Finger joints by mallet & chisel. Stay tuned...
  6. I was asked in 2015 to bring some old tools in for a presentation as part of our local library centennial celebration. While not an expert, I am somewhat versed in the subject as a hobby and so I presented for about 15 minutes that night about tools at the turn of the century. Fast forward 4 years and I was asked to return. I talked for 90 minutes on basic hand tool design and use, makers marks, electrolysis rust removal, refinishing and whatever else came out in questions. My 11 y.o. Daughter helped me at the first showing and spent 10 minutes talking with the crowd about her planes and 4H woodworking projects this time. Crowds aren’t really large at our little small town library but those in attendance seemed interested in my slightly “different” subject matter and conversation was good! All in all, a great night! This is us in 2019 (top photo) and our first attempt in 2015 in the lower photo. Notice that 220 Stanley in purple and yellow! “Black is too boring when you are nine!” was her quote when we painted it and when she showed it the other evening!
  7. I have been posting some of my furniture builds. Here are are few of the tools I have made. There are details and pictorial on my website for those interested in making their own: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/index.html A few of these have been featured in Fine Woodworking magazine. This is one - a bridle plough plane ... The plough is based on the Mathieson Bridle Plough. The “bridle” is the method in which the fence is attached to the arms. For centuries many methods have been offered to ensure that the fence runs parallel to the skate. The bridle appears to have been one of the best, but it is difficult to build, and so few were produced. The wood is West Australian She-oak. Its box plus set of 8 irons ... Since we are on boxes, the box alongside was an entry in tool-making competition across Australia in 2009. I think it placed third. Not great images, my apology ... Jarrah box with drawer (containing drill bits and drivers) ... Inside the box is a small brace (throw of 5") and a screwdriver in She-oak. This was carved from a solid billet. The hand rest is Tasmanian Blackwood. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. So I had hoped to get to Lee Valley while in Vancouver before we left for our Alaskan Cruise but the promise of going to Butchart Gardens one day took the whole day and the flight from DC to Vancouver left the first day with us exhausted so there was no getting to Lee Valley as hoped. And flying back from Fairbanks niched any chance. So as much as I wanted to I'm lead to deciding on a low angle block plane which I intend to use for taking the edge off some corners and for planing end grain which I hear it does quite well. Better than sanding if truth be told. I need it to be perfectly flat on the sides for end grain and using a homemade sled which Lee Valley shows works quite well using plywood and making the groove for the plane. Of course they show this for use with their special shooting plane but should work equally well for the bench plane I would think, maybe a slight variation if needed. The second plane I see a need for would be a nice dado plane. Now maybe not totally necessary but I can see a real need for its use in some of my works and plans for other projects. I'm trying to blend hand tools with these wonderful machine I already have. Along those lines I'll need to start thinking of a good rip saw, crosscut saw, and dovetail saw. For now I'm working on the hand planes. With the #4 Smoothing plane and the #62 Jack Plane already secured I think these next ones will fit fine. Just need to determine which ones. From what I saw at the Woodworking Show a few months back the Lee Valley Low Angle Block plane should do very well. Any corrections? Suggestions otherwise? The Dado Plane, well I haven't looked at any so I'm wide open to good suggestions. I rather get one good one then something that really isn't worth it. Old/new, really doesn't matter. Doing a good job is what I'm interested in. Good quality. Thanks for listening..... -Steve
  9. Today I finished another batch of 8 wooden planes so I will bore you with the pictures. Herb
  10. Lee Valley Custom Shop is now open...
  11. The first one was that little guy that hurt my hand to use. I thought if I made it larger to get a better grip it would be better. But not so, still was a pretty plane but not so pretty to use, Then I fixed it on the 3rd try. Pic 1. is the first one you have already seen. The last picture is a reject block plane I threw in to fill out the upload. For some reason the pictures loaded before my Text ??????? Herb
  12. Been a while since this was mentioned, so I thought I'd mention it again. I knew Patrick years ago when he was active on "old tools" mail list (predecessor of "forums") and how I'd waste my lunch time at work. Even before eBay drove up prices of old Stanleys, for a while. http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan0a.html
  13. Today I finish sanded 4 planes and got the 1st coat of shellac on them to see if any marks show up that I need to sand out.
  14. I got to thinking that maybe since I had a couple of plane blades left that I would make a couple more planes. This time I used some Russian Birch Plywood scraps I wanted to use up. Russian birch is not as good of a grade as Baltic birch, but there was a time not so long ago where the Chinese had bought up all the BB and we couldn't get any, so the lumber yards here stocked 4X8 sheets of Russian birch. Also I had a piece of Purple Heart that I have been trying to find a project to make out of it. I found out one thing when I finished the other planes I gave them a coat of shellac and sanded off the grain, then another coat of shellac and then went to the water based Acrylic 50/50 mix. On the purple heart plane I didn't want the yellow in the shellac messing with the purple color, I wanted that purple just like the raw wood. So I decided to seal it with the WB Acrylic. Big mistake , it turned the purple heart a dark greenish black , like swamp mud. so after messing with it,I finally sanded it down to raw wood and put 3 coats of shellac on it. Herb Herb
  15. As I posted in another thread I have started making 18-20 wooden block planes that I made 4 several years ago copied from a Wood magazine. Since I have a presentation at our local WW club, I plan on giving a presentation on how to make these. I figure if I give each member that comes to the meeting one of these to hold and examine while I go through the steps of building one, it might be more clear in their mind how to do it themselves. And they might not fall asleep during the presentation. Yesterday I showed the blocks glued up for the bodies, and the one I am using for the pattern. The next step was to roughcut out the 1/4" thick sides and sand edges to finish size. After they were sanded close to size I cut the blocks I had previously glued up 4" from the heel of the plane to the mouth of the blade slot on a 45°angle. The cut-off is then turned over and butted up tight to the heel piece,thus creating a "V" for the plane blade to rest in. and the sides are glued on to hold the assembly together. It takes lots of clamps to dlamp these up , I ran of two planes short and had to wait to finish the final two.
  16. but I don't hold a candle to these guys. I caught this on another forum and thought it might of interest here. The Japanese really take hand plane skills seriously. Skip to the 2 minute mark to get to the real stuff.
  17. Among the split-tip screwdrivers, all are one brand except the one at the bottom which is labelled "Klein"; the rest are Quick-Wedge. I still have a lot of work to do on the planes, as neither one has been really cleaned up well. The Reed & Prince is an old Craftsman i bought many years ago - note how the tip is much different from the look-alike Phillips.
  18. Stumbled upon this site while researching a Victor smoothing plane. Lots of good information here about dating tools, restoration, etc.
  19. Have ya'll heard of Jim Bode Tools, ya, pretty cool. They are advertised in the MWTCA Gristmill. Have fun! https://www.jimbodetools.com/collections/whats-new
  20. On another site, there was a thread about wanting to use a #8 Jointer plane....in making boxes and trays... I made up a little show & tell.....the OP has a #62 ( I think) and was wanting to buy a #8. A #5 Jack plane is roughly the same size as a #62, so.. In my case, this would be the Millers Falls #14 Jack plane sitting beside my Stanley #8.....bit of a size difference? Jack has a 2" wide iron, the #8 has a 2-5/8" wide cutter...Hmmm, maybe if we try a Jumbo Jack instead? An inch or so longer, and the cutter is a 2-3/8" wide....rather an "overweight" Jack plane? So, what would be a little easier to use than the #8? Couple of inches shorter...about a pound or so lighter, and has a 2-3/8" wide cutter..Stanley No. 7c, Type 9 See a difference? Which would YOU want to push around all day long? Well, there IS a shorter version out there.. Stanley called it a small jointer, a Stanley No.6c, type 10....about 6" shorter than the #8, and has a 2-3/8" wide iron... All three are indeed "Jointers" Which would you want to push around all day long....Me..I'd rather push the "Spare Tire" around.. 2 patent date, low knob Stanley #4.....tape is for a better grip. Sweaty hands, after a LONG day, I need the grip. That concludes the Show & Tell, for today...any questions?
  21. Like the title says.. Some have already seen this plane til....those block planes across the top? Are the main users. Half are low angle ones. Some of the "special" planes. The old block plane is great for knocking off excess dried glue.. There is one thing about these wood bodied planes...they weigh a bit less than the iron versions. That red jack? That is my "scrub" plane. The Big Guys. The Millers Falls #14 because it is used as a big smooth plane. A #8, another #7, and a #81 try plane. You need your Wheaties, before a full day of moving these around..... Somewhere in the shop, there is a third spokeshave.....I tend to treat them as planes. The #45....7 planes in one. IF anyone wants to see what is on that shelf.....I might bring them out into the daylight. Depending on the project, there are 6 or 7 planes that always seem to get used..... Depending on the size of the project....some will get swapped out for another size. The #7 may turn into a #6, or a #5-1/2. The #4 may get changed out to a #3 size. That #5 may get replaced by the 5-1/4 as a jack. The #5 has a bit of camber to the edge of the iron, the 5-1/4 does not. After a long day of pushing planes around...smaller ones tend to come out....old arms tend to get tired.
  22. Rehabs the rest of the weekend, maybe? One Garage sale...all it said was.."Tools" Boss spent more than I did...but, she wasn't buying tools. I spent around $9 this morning...picked five tools Just had to shine up that medallion, to see what this saw was. . Hmmm, ring a bell? Saw is 26" long, has 8ppi, a skew back, and is wickedly SHARP. Paid a dollar for it... This be a $2 all-steel Shelton block plane....next.. This be a Millers Falls No. 900, I think. made after the Mohawk-Shelbourne line was ended...mid 50s? $2.....have had to fix the rear handle, this time it was broke. Front knob has "issues" ( cracks), Lever cap was replaced. Both handle bolts are one piece..bolts. And they were bent. Now, how good is your French? These two were also $2 each. Logo on the iron? A single eyeball means this is about..1875 era. Goldenberg Acier Fondu ( cast steel) Warantie ( warranted) ) This is an adjuster, there is a pin from the iron, into the head of the bolt. Other end of the bolt engages two square nuts, these push against a notch in the bed for the iron. All this adjusts is to retract the iron. Irons are both 1-5/8" wide....bodies are about 9-1/2" long. Both have chip breakers.....neither of them are attach to the irons. These two will take a bit of time to fix up. Five items = $9.....I turned down three Handyman planes, a beat up mitre box and quite a few other "treasures"....figured I had done enough for one sale... Not too bad of a morning?
  23. I read with great interest and relief for the outlook that James Krenov had with his hand tools, and sharpening, and maintenance. For years I have been put off by the many sharpening gadgets, guides, holders, science, bevel up, bevel down, yadayadayada. I have always thought that folks can get wound waaaay too tightly over the science of woodworking, and tooling, so much so they forget the joy of the actual woodwork. James Krenov had a very lax position on the sharpening of his tools, specifically hand plane blades. He sharpened free hand, never spent too much time doing it, never worried about secondary bevels, or angles, and he used oil stones. Honestly, growing up as a teenager and learning woodwork in my dads shop, Krenov's method of sharpening is the exact way my dad taught me, just put the cutter up on an oil stone, keep the angle around 45 degrees, and do the fingernail test, if it looks good, it's ready. Here is a quote from Krenov that I love: What Krenov said about sharpening about sums it all up for many of us. I used to use a roller guide (on and off, depending on the latest fad) to support my chisels and plane irons for sharpening, not anymore, I have been free handing it most of my woodworking life and I am very happy with the results. I love James Krenov approach on this subject, basically he's just saying, get over it! It's just a tool! And have fun! My eyes glaze over when the sharpening gurus start talking about angles, micro bevels, body positioning, and more, jeez, get over it, it's just woodworking! If free hand sharpening on an old oil stone is good enough for Krenov, it's good enough for me, just like ol Dad taught me! And if you are a user of the sharpening guides, and it works for you, stick with it! There are many sharpening jigs out there for the woodworker and it's a great aid, I must admit I can get into the jigs really easy, but in my puritan quest as of late, I am liking free hand sharpening more and more.
  24. This past week I purchased this Stanley No. 71 Router plane and was glad to add it to my collection. I haven't done anything to it yet as far as cleaning it up. It has a patent date of March 4 '84. This is a Type 4 No 71 Router Plane. This plane was only made for a three year period in this configuration so this is a fairly rare plane to find. I already had a No 71 Type 8. They type 8 was made between 1908 and 1915. Also in the collection I had two Stanley No 71 1/2 planes. The first one is a No 71 1/2 Type 4. The 71 1/2 was made because the 71 originally had a closed throat and then they opened it up. So many of the guys liked the closed throat they brought it back out as a 71 1/2. My other 71 1/2 is a type 5. I am missing the depth gauge on one of them and I just noticed I dropped the blade out of one of them and it wasn't in the picture. Anyway, here is my Router Plane Collection. Looking forward to getting back out and doing more Patriot Picking!!
  25. On the road trip from the Lumberjocks get together......trying to make it around curves and over mountains...back end of the pickup truck was FULL. Kept looking for ANY Antique Stores / Malls......got back into OHIO before we even found one open. To even get out of the Shindig, we had to load up as much of Charles Neil's "scrap wood bin" as we could. This is about half of my "share"..the rest is further back in that corner. Anyway, this is about tools.. These two are the "keepers" of the BUNCH... This one is only for the handle, plate is junk. Not too sure about this thingy... Anyway, I sold Charles 3 saws, and fixed up another for him....I had to haul all the rest of his saws home.... There are TWO Butcher's saws on the bottom. Most of these will be for parts. (free saws...) There was a bit of trading going on. Charles had a top shelf of planes and tools he did not want...I got two planes.. That little piece of metal is my plane stop dog. The plane is a Type 7, No. 8 Stanley Jointer plane. Next.. Type 1, Millers Falls No. 11 Junior Jack.. Also tossed my way.. A No. 85 Stearns hinge gauge. A few irons for planes.. Not too sure about the block plane ones, there are 3 from IBC for bench planes. One still in the wrapper is a 2" wide one. Was a few other odds and ends....oh, about that Antique store? They also sold Guitars and accessories, too.... Had to make it a quick stop, though, had a nasty Thunderstorm headed that way. Made one $9.99 +tax buy in the store... It even had a twist drill bit made for this style of drill. Stanley 6" sweep brace. With a 7/16" drill bit. Long weekend, had a LOT of fun, had a great host. LOTS of food. Met some new people, too. Was told to edit Charles out of this picture, as for these other two Hooligans...(note the SMALL planer?) Radial arm saw now has a router instead of a saw....pretty country down there and another.. This was from US 50, on the way home to Ohio. Right after we passed a group of "bikers" setting up to pedal up and down these little hills... Not a bad weekend road trip...
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