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Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety

Member reviews, safety tips, research and best deals. Check in here before you buy, submit your reviews, and share your safety tips so others may benefit from your wisdom.

Subforums

  1. This forum was moved from our old community to our new community, the software change made much of our old content disheveled and the layout looking poor. But we are keeping this forum intact, as we slowly but surely move the old content, to our active Tools Forum.

  1. Cliff
    Started by Cliff,

    Fewer hightly stressed moving parts. Less to go wrong. Cheap like 800 dollars cheaper And I have seen worn out festool dominos. They do wear.

    Fred W. Hargis Jr
  2. kmealy
    Started by kmealy,

    Wondering about this https://uueze.com/products/fixture?fbclid=IwAR267iPDeAruVTvTq6hEgd8acaFvYxqwFfZehzYasV-rWqqf4zSsCyErNZ4

  3. Buckaroo
    Started by Buckaroo,

    Seems like a new/old process. All sorts & $'s of jigs. Some hand cut theres. DIFFERENT BITS. Differences bout ALL OF IT. JUST A SUGGESTION, OK.

  4. Ron Dudelston
    Started by Ron Dudelston,

    John Moody and I were talking today about dovetail jigs. We both have the Peachtree version and the discussion got around to replacement bits and it looks like the Amana bit for the Keller system is identical to the Peachtree bit. I heard that Keller's patent ran out and Peachtree copied it. Any input on this? Anyone have a Keller system?

    • 4 replies
    • 9.1k views
  5. Dadio

    I ordered a hole drilling jig for my dowel hinges from Rob Cosman a couple of weeks ago and Rob actually called me up and notified me he had shipped it and thanked me for ordering it. It is well machined and in it's own little wood tray. It has 1/2",3/8",5/16",and 1/4" cups, with 2 mandrels. One is for a 1/16" drill bit,and the other for 1/8"drill bit,plus the allen wrench to set the drill bits to depth. You cut the dowel segments to length, and turn on the drill and push it into the cup, turn it around and do the other end. If you leave it like that then cut the pins, 1" long and stick one in each end of the dowel, it will stick out in…

  6. Rick S
    Started by Rick S,

    Guys, I need a doweling jig. Seems to be many to choose from. Any recommendations? Rick Sexton

  7. Cliff
    Started by Cliff,

    I have an ancient craftsman 4 horse compressor. It won't die. I want to replace it, but it won't die. I put it in a rather inaccessible location and ran hoses and a remote switch. Draining it was a PITA till I figured out that there's no harm in a little leaking air from the drain plug so I just leave it cracked a scosh. So I don't drain it.

  8. Lost Oki
    Started by Lost Oki,

    Got a great deal on a Dremel rotary saw with flex shaft at an estate sale. Flex shaft Model 961 requires an insert that did not come with the saw. Per Dremel, this model was discontinued in 2004. Does anyone have this saw and shaft? if so, can you post a pic of the insert along with rough dimensions?

    Grandpadave52
  9. kmealy
    Started by kmealy,

    Just read a story about Dremel's new oscillating multi-tool (OMT), called the "Velocity" (Nov 2016 Family Handyman) I don't use my OMT often, but when I need it, it comes in handy. Differences between this and the competition: - 5 degree swing so faster cutting - shoe base to help get square cuts - bigger motor https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-VC60-01-Velocity-Hyper-Oscillating-Remodeling/dp/B01CYDA5PU/ref=sr_1_1/157-8410337-4345846?ie=UTF8&qid=1475877655&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+velocity

  10. Ron Altier
    Started by Ron Altier,

    My drill chucks are causing me problems by coming loose. I may be one of the few that didn't know this.

    • 1 reply
    • 383 views
  11. steamshovel
    Started by steamshovel,

    Does anyone use a drill doctor? I need a part and can't find one locally or on line> Model #750SP. The part # I need is #PPO1426PF, sharping tube. drilldr>com is not a good e-mail, it is up for sale. Preston

    • 2 replies
    • 848 views
  12. Rex
    Started by Rex,

    Hi all, I'd like to build a drill press cabinet and have never done anything like this. I'm a wood turner so this is new. I use it to drill pen blanks, not know what else it can do (tho I'd like to find a good book or website that tells what it can do!) I have a floor length one and I'd like this to be on wheels. What do I need to consider, how tall should the drawers be, how tall do I make the cabinet, do I make it as part of the drill press table and fence, is there a standard size width like 15 inches width. What thickness are the walls, can I use 1/4 or 1/2 inch plywood with 3/4 on the bottom for the wheels, is there a plywood better for this than oth…

    John Morris
  13. Dadio
    Started by Dadio,

    I have a small HF drill press that had a plastic collar to hold the depth stop. It was too flexible to be accurate, so I made a new one out of a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum. Herb

  14. Wichman3
    Started by Wichman3,

    I needed to mount various vices and jigs to my drill press; this is what I came up with: I mounted a 1 1/2" floor flange to 3/4 ply with #14 screws, ground one side of a 1 1/2" nipple to fit the clamp on the DP. Now when I need to change jigs I loosen the DP clamp, lift the current jig and replace with what I need tighten and away I go. thoughts?

    Fred W. Hargis Jr
  15. Gunny
    Started by Gunny,

    Someone gave me a box of what they called "junk". A lot of nuts and bolts and such but this little guy caught my eye. I had seen this used once at the Boat Repair place. When I asked what it was he told me important not a toy. Okay I got that a lot. On my JET 17 inch drill press they have the quill stop lock as two knurled nuts you tighten. Don't know what thread but it takes forever to run them up and down. Would be nice to have something easier. Sure they offer some but the ones I found were wrong size and $35. So this stop is 1/2 - 20. I have threaded rod that fits it. Tried the regular zinc and found the fit rather sloppy. Whe…

    • 1 reply
    • 1.5k views
  16. Ron Dudelston
    Started by Ron Dudelston,

    So, my inherited 10” Craftsman bench drill press is on the ropes. The motor is losing power and wants to stall but the drill is good other than that. I looked at replacing the motor (113.219100) but I can’t find a suitable replacement. Buying a new one isn’t an issue but two things are critical. Overall height and spindle travel. The 10” fits nicely on my bench (not too tall) and has a full 3” spindle travel. Unfortunately, many of the new one only have 2” of spindle travel. With all of that do y’all have any suggestions with either a replacement motor or a new press?

    Ron Dudelston
  17. Michael Thuman
    Started by Michael Thuman,

    I have a morse and taper shaft on my drill press that is constantly falling out. Especially when I need it to cut mortise. Is it misalignment in my mortise attachments that are causing the M&T to slip out? I do not not think so. But then why won't it stay in. I will google it but you gents are my favorites with multiple options.

  18. Texaswally
    Started by Texaswally,

    I have converted my drill press to variable speed using a 3-phace motor and a VFD. I have a digital speed readout using a Hall Effect sensor and a magnet on the quill shaft pulley. Right now, I have a speed range of ~60 to 2650 RPMs. Will this be adequate for most woodworking tasks? I still have a couple of changes using the step-pulleys but I haven't measured the speeds available.

    • 3 replies
    • 770 views
  19. BillyJack
    Started by BillyJack,

    So I'm looking around but haven't seen anything that looks complete enough without getting too fancy. As I mentioned before I'm trying to get the shop more compressed and workable...Any links or photos? Not fancy just needs to be the most sensible. I saw these but don't need to laminate and need to combine to be one complete table...

  20. Wichman3
    Started by Wichman3,

    So my old drill press is having issues; high pitch bearing whine at top speed (which I use a lot for drilling scrollsaw fretwork patterns), 40+ years old off brand (bought used 40 years ago), chuck just failed, one tooth lower than the other two, can't center a bit. don't know if I can get the morse taper out now (had to use loctite, lowest strength, to get the chuck to stay in the machine) at the time, 30 years ago, I was using a drum sander in the press and any side pressure would make the chuck fall out. loctite fixed it and it has not been removed since. So fix or replace? Brand recommendations for a chuck would be nice. This is not a pro…

    Fred W. Hargis Jr

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