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Hi, my mother-in-law has a storage shed on her property. It’s about 27 years old, neighbors tree fell on shed, roof no longer rain tight. Shed was an cheapie, did a great job lasting this long. Doors are sagging/rotting, roof has moss growing on it, particle board has become fall-aparticle-board. So I’m trying to find out whether it’s more cost advisable to buy a new, already made one(probably not), buy a precut kit, and assemble (maybe, but quality could still be an issue), or just get a set of plans build it myself, well with some help of course (I’m thinking this is the most inexpensive, and fun, but also most work). To price out the build it myself, I need plans. Due to my MIL’s yard/driveway layout, we’re looking for a shed that is 8 feet X 12 feet. We need the door to be one the 8 foot end, and maybe a window or two for light. I found a set of plans that do this, but the rafters, joists, etc seem to be 24 inches on center, I think for strength and snow loads up here in NE I’m wanting 16 inches on center. So any recommendations for where I can get good plans would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for any help or suggestions, Artie PS I have checked the laws/rules/regulations and no permit is required for sheds 120 sq feet or less.

Ladies and Gents, I intend to spend time in the shop this summer. Time to tool up. I have a standard marking gauge, the kind with the spike on it. I don't like it much, it follows the grain. I see a lot of youtubers using a metal marking gauge with a rotary cutter on it. Who uses one of these, do you like it, and what brand do you recommend? Same question for saws. If I were buying a tenon saw or panel saw, what brands should I consider?

Hi, I am hoping that some of our very knowledgeable members here will share their bountiful wisdom with me. (Did I lay it on too thick?) A good friend of mine has a small cabinet in his bathroom that matches their medicine cabinet. It appears that the wrong hinges were used on this cabinet. For the cabinet door to lay flat against the face of the cabinet, the hinges would need to be spaced out from the face by 1/8-3/16 of an inch. My friend tried to force it shut, and well........ the door didn’t take kindly to that. So the advice part.... I believe this is what is called a raised panel door. I have a cheap raised door panel router bit set coming from MLCS. I’m planning on making the door frame out of Poplar, and was thinking that a 3/4 piece of Baltic Birch could be the raised panel. The total dimensions of the door is 13x16x3/4. Will wood movement between the Poplar, and the BB (on account of them being different woods) doom my work? I have never glued up boards to make a panel yet, and it seems cutting a piece of BB square would be fairly easy (you know, for someone like me ). Is using a router bit ( I know to make small cuts, and sneak up onto my final dimensions) on BB worse for the bit, with the glue of BB versus glued up Poplar? This is a cheap cabinet, and I know it would be much cheaper to buy a new one, but I want to make this, and get me some new learning in. As always any thoughts, advice, opinions, are welcome. Thank you. Artie

I'm not a turner but, I subscribe to Ron Brown's newsletter. He often publishes content applicable to general woodworking. This one is such a case. Hope you all find it as interesting as I did. If not, well it's only a few minutes lost. Choices I heard an artist on the radio voice his disgust over his recent interaction with the owner of an art gallery. It seems that the gallery owner had put stipulations on the kind of work he would accept – imagine the audacity! The artist was insulted that he wouldn’t be able to do whatever he wanted and go wherever his artistic leading took him. He felt that the gallery owner should just accept anything the artist did and give him space in the gallery just because he worked hard and was very passionate about his art. Here is a hard truth: You can’t make people like your artwork just because you like to make it. Regardless of the amount of time and effort you put into something, people don’t have to like it and some won’t. The obvious solution here is that he open his own gallery and fill it with whatever he chooses assuming he can afford it. Or, meet the demands of the gallery owner. Years ago, I made wooden furniture and sold it to a specialty retail store which sold it to the public. I learned quickly to make items which sold well and were relatively easy to make at an affordable cost. I learned to make things that the customers of this particular store wanted to buy regardless of whether I liked them or not. I tried introducing pieces I thought were beautiful and the owner allowed me to stock a limited number of my own creations. Most of them bombed horribly. If you have followed me for some time, you have undoubtedly seen products listed on my website for a while, and then mysteriously vanish. I was certain that they would be run away best sellers and some are. Many more are not. Still, I keep trying. So here is the decision: If you are turning because it makes you happy and provides an outlet for your creativity, do anything you want to and can afford. If, however, you expect to earn money from at least some of your turning, make what people what to buy, not what you want to sell them. I realize that most of you don’t sell things you turn and that turning is simply a creative outlet for you. But for those of you who would like to earn some extra cash, a lot or a little, make what people want to buy. Make it the size they can use, in the colors or wood species they like and at a price they are willing to pay and that you are willing to accept. I met a fellow at a wood show one time that made mostly simple wooden pens. He had three large cases of pens, about 50 pens in each case. The first case was full of pens in maple, oak and walnut. Case #1 was offered at “All pens for $10ea – your choice”. Case #2 contained some more figured wood and was offered at “All pens for $15ea – your choice”. And case #3 contained more exotic woods and was offered at “All pens at $25ea – your choice”. I remarked that his prices seemed too low for the amount of work he put into these beautiful, but simple pens. Then he told me that he went to a flea market each weekend and sold out every week. He was OK with the prices where they were since pen turning was a hobby and he had a regular full time job to pay the bills. Now there was a fellow who knew his customers, what they wanted, and what he was willing to sell his work for. I wouldn’t change a thing. If you are your own customer pleasing just yourself, do exactly what you want. If the public is your customer, do what they want and are willing to pay for because wherever you go there you are.

October already but the weather is more like early September. At least it isn't raining! Please checkout @John Morris's announcement concerning the Easy Wood Tools ornaments. Let's all pitch in and help load up the Easy Wood Tools lobby Christmas tree! You don't have to be the most experienced turner to create some neat items for their tree. Here's a couple of really easy spindle type items- Remember, you don't have to paint/decorate the turnings. @Jim from Easy Wood Tools told me they have volunteers who can do that. Our Patriot Turners- @Jim from Easy Wood Tools has been honing his hollowing skills. Check out this beauty- his first attempt! Jim posted his description here and received lots of positive feedback- @Ron Altier has created another gorgeous ornament. Ron always finds creative ways to embellish his turnings. He received lots of comments and Ron exposes his source for some of his materials- @RustyFN posted a fantastic seam ripper he made as a gift. Lots of interest in his technique and he answered questions about how he produced such an awesome finish- We had a couple of questions this week. @hawkeye10 asked about purchasing turning chisels. The group is pretty much split between the standard tools (gouges, etc.) and the newer carbide tools. Please head on over to Hawkeye's post and give him your insights and experiences. Hawkeye also posted images of his newly cleaned/restored lathe. It sure is a beauty- @Ron Altier asked about the cushioned micromesh sanding abrasives. Ron was curious about sanding speeds and what materials could be sanded with this product. Check his post and the responses. If you have any tips or hints that will help him, please give him the information- @Gerald posted two excellent videos on lathe maintenance. I know I need to do preventative maintenance more often. From The Internet- Our friends from Easy Wood Tools shared a video from Tracey Malady. In this one, she turns a bowl with an internal rim. You get to see the EWT hollowing tools in action! On my old lathe, I had a honing wheel mounted to the "left" side of the headstock. It was really handy for honing tools during turning. Mike Peace demonstrates how to make one of these for sanding or honing- Tim Yoder put up a video about turning a pumpkin. I'm sharing it here not so much for the project but for Tim's concern for safety when turning large pieces. Everything Else- I did get to spend a little time at the lathe. I'm working on the last two ornaments to send to Jim Luley for the EWT Christmas tree. The first one is made from a piece of spalted maple. The "finials' are also maple but ebonized with india ink. The second one is from a blank I glued up a while back that was intended for salt/pepper grinders but that never happened. It's a combination of walnut, maple and cherry. I used a jig designed by Mr. David Reed Smith to create the balls. Everything was completely turned with Easy Wood Tools. Safe Turning

Guys, I need a doweling jig. Seems to be many to choose from. Any recommendations? Rick Sexton

Hi, I am in need of advice from those more knowledgeable than me (so everybody). I’ve been looking on the various used items websites and have found two scroll saws I think I’m interested in. One is a 2004 Hegner Unimax, listed as brand new. This soon not seem to be sold any longer. They are asking $250 for it. Will it serve the needs of a newbie, and yet maybe last into journeyman status, or if I take to scrolling will it not be adequate in the future? Two is an RBI Industries scroll saw, used, and model number not listed. It also looks like the upper bar that holds the safety/clamp (I’m sure my naming of the parts is incorrect). That is next to the upper bar that holds the blade is missing. I have not received any contact back from the lister. This one is being sold for $75 which would give me some leeway parts wise. I got a lucky break over the weekend and got a $300 windfall, so either of these does not come out of the family budget (at least that’s what I’m telling myself LOL). Option 3 is wait till refund from taxes enters bank account, and dip into that for $250 and buy a new DeWalt 788 from Grizzly. I think that’s around $530 total, with shipping, stand and light. Any and all opinions wanted, and welcome. Thanks Artie

I may need to replace my inexpensive B&D jigsaw soon, it really heats up after about 15 minutes of use (130 degrees). I am looking for personal experience here I can google reviews or look on Amazon, but I want real reviews not cheerleaders. So, a couple of questions: 1. T or U? 2. Brand and model please. Thanks in advance. My usage is occasional, but when I do use it, it will be for hours at a time. The current project is cutting out large (38") snowflakes for the bosses wife (local winter fund raiser) 2 full sheets of 5/8 plywood. 4 sizes of snowflakes, at least 4 of each size.

My old faithful PC sander for 20 years finally went belly up. I need some suggestions for a replacement. Thanks for any help.

Any commerical solutions that work at low cost for dust collection of my sliding miter saw. Also what are your homemade and proven dust collection for a miter saw solutions.

I bought it new in 1997 and used it off and on for the first 17 years but in the last 3 I have used it a lot, sometimes daily. It has always run fine but today I turned it on and it ran for 1/2 a second then quit. Here's what I know: 1) It is getting power, I even switched to different circuit altogether 2) I pulled the switch out to verify that it is good 3) The brushes, though original, are still 1/2" long and show no signs of chipping or abnormal wear 4) The wires on the brushes are intact and the springs have plenty of tension 5) The motor is easy to spins (took the side covers off to verify) 6) The 18 amp built-in breaker on the top of the motor is in the position it should be in 7) In shining a light onto the commutator I see no chips or bridged arcs between segments I don't really want to spend the money on a new planer and would rather get this one running again. I can order new brushes just to rule that out but again, the current ones look fine to me. Ideas? David

Hi, I have an Unisaw and I bought it second hand about 10 years ago. Up until a few days ago it was opperation fine. But after ripping a few boards, when turing the saw on, the blade rotated slowly and then the 20 Amp breaker tripped. I attempted this a few more times and the same thing happened. I have a planer on the same circut and it worked fine. I took out the capacitor and the other fuse and had them tested at a motor shop and they told me that they were fine. I will attempt to switch the breaker on that line with another, but with this information, what else should I look a that would cause it to draw more amps than normaol on start up? The brushes? Also when I took the capacitor out, it was chuck full of saw dust and I had to take a tool to get the sawdust cleard out to see the connectors on the capacitor. Do you think this may have been an issue, sawdust on the points? Best regards, Ron

I need to lengthen a water supply line to a sink. The ½” copper supply line routs up through the bottom of the cabinet. Questions: 1) To lengthen the supply line I wanted to add a coupling, an extension, and a shut-off valve. What is the minimum distance I should try to maintain between the sweated on coupling and the sweated on shut-off valve? When I sweat on the shut-off valve I do not want to create a leak at the previous sweated on coupling . 2) What is the minimum distance I should have between the cabinet floor and the shut-off valve? I do not have anything which is fire retardant to help protect the cabinet from the torches heat/flame. The coupling and supply extension will be installed after the old cabinet is removed and before the new cabinet is installed. The shut-off valve will be installed after the new cabinet is installed. I want to be able to sweat the fittings, but I only have a few successes under my belt. I am willing to learn and do. Looking for your advice. Thanks Danl

I am in the Market for a dust collector. I need 785 CFM for my Thickness Planar. 6" main line, 4" drops 2 x 2 1/2 drops (router and Chop saw) Will only use 3' of flex near tool then transition to rigid back to the dust collector. Static loss around 3" 1. Priority low noise. 1A. Hepa or 1 mciron. 2. Priority Cyclone separator 3 Priority must fit in 8' floor to ceiling. 4. Yes I only use one tool at a time now but if this build goes well I may have friends over running 2 to 3 devices. Total CFM then ~1500 CFM. 5. Blast gates will be used and two 4" must be open to properly supply the 6" main. 6. Floor sweep will remain open most always unless multiple machines are in operation. So far Jet Looks reasonable what do you think? http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jcdc-2-cyclone-dust-collector-2hp-230v/717520 no CFM rating on this machine. Any experience with this machine? Any used ones or similar out there?

So, I just broke another blade. What's the best one for the money for 14" Rockwell saw? Not interested in bi-metal ones. Anybody used a HF one? If so, would you do it again? Thanks!

Want to install glass into an old grandfather clock door but found the door frame was warped,how do I straighten the frame? Thanks

I need to add solid sides to my trailer so that I can pick up mulch. Please review my idea and let me know your thoughts. Purchase 3/8 x 4 x 8 CDX sheet of plywood. Purchase 2 X 1x4x8' of treated lumber. 1. Cut the plywood to fit the trailer length and width. 2. Cut the 1x4 into 3/4" square and mill a 3/8 deep by plywood thickness width dado down the middle. 3. on the top cord taper so water will drain. 4. on the top cords bottom install two saw curfs 1/16" deep 1/16" in both sides. (Water drip edge). before glue 5. on the bottom cord top taper to the edge so water will not sit on the surface. 6. on the bottom cord bottom install two saw curfs 1/16" deep 1/16" in both sides. 7. The vertical cord on the ends of the plywood would fit under the top and bottom cords. 8. Wrap the CDX with the 1x4 glue with poly. 9. install a 1/4" tapered bead of latex caulk to the joints.5. 10. Paint the assembly with a good external acrylic paint. 11. During install on the trailer use carriage bolt in the wood and thru the metal rail then double nutted. Use SS fasteners I will send in pictures once I get to the build. Do you think this will last for years or months? The idea is to properly seal so that the plywood and 1x4 will last. Is this over kill?

I am looking at two different lathes. I am looking at the Delta 46-460 and the Rikon 70-220VS. They both have 12.5 swing over the bed, 1hp motor, 5 year warranty, same price and same speed ranges. The Rikon can turn a 20 inch spindle and I think the Delta is only 16 inches. I would like to hear the good and bad from anybody that has experience with one of these lathes. I am leaning toward the Rikon because it is a little longer.

Hi I am new here buy want to use this site for info on wood working. I want to start using box joints for some small boxes I want to build. I plan on using my table saw. with a sled Want to be able to do 1/4" and 3/8" joints. So here is my questions. How do I tell which size opening I need to use. Related to the width of the wood. All the videos I have watched no body says a thing about how they came up with the proper spacing on the last cut. Jeff

What is the trick to getting the roping into the slots when replacing screen on doors? Thanks!

Neighbor picked up a screen door that is 1" thick, has plastic frame. It looks like it has never been used. She has no hinges, and I am wondering what type I should use. Thanks!

I'm looking for a lawn roller and need some help. I've been looking at both Poly and Steel. I've read that poly will give alittle and may not get some of the humps out. I've read that the Steel most of them have weak frame work and need bearings (which they don't come with) and rust out easily. Both the poly and steel really don't get very good reviews at all. I'm so confused at which one to get. It seems as if it doesn't matter which manufacture you go with they will all sooner or later going to need to be reinforced or fixed up. I'm going with either 24"x 48" or 18"x 24" roller Any help what so ever will be appreciated.

I bought the Dewalt 733 planer seems like in 2000 and at the time I thought how I should take care of it... And my answer to a post the other day was completely wrong for I have never applied any kind of slickum to the base or table where the wood lays while the rollers are pulling the wood through the blades, never. The reasoning back then and still now.... A person should plane both sides of a board and try to take off the same amount of wood from each side. So the board gets flipped back and forth swapping sides until the ruffness and thickness is achieved.... Each time a person flips the board over to plane the other side if he has applied wax to the table the rollers will be getting some of that wax each time the board is flipped.....and soon , in my thinking the rollers will collect enough wax to make them too slick to pull the wood........ All these years all I do is keep the table clean with soap and water.....and make sure the soap is removed completely for that will help rust form.....The Johnsons Paste Wax I do use on the threaded rods and that is the only place. Good or bad idea thats for you to decide but so far I have never had any trouble with the 733. I am on my sixth set of blades and I do have a machine especially to sharpen the planer blades but I decided long ago a new set of blades are easier for me than to set the machine up each time and hope for the best... And for those who are new to using a planer and wonder why a person should take off the same amount of wood from each side you can do an experiment... Take a good flat board , kiln dried, and take off say an 1/8" off of one side only, not all at once but a very small amount each pass, and lay it back somewhere for a few days and see what happens. Most all the time that board will warp something terrible... And most of the time it is not fixable.

I have a craftsman 10 inch compound miter saw (model MODEL NO. 137.212360 SN#041300896). A few weeks back i noticed that when adjusting the angle of the blade it was becoming increasing hard to turn the blade assembly whether it be to 45 degrees right or left. today I got motivated and disassembled the (part X3RS - TABLE) from the (part X3SS - BASE). There is a (part X3SQ - SLIDE PLATE) between the two. I noticed that it looks like the saw has been 'rubbing' one side of the slide plate to the point where it has made a groove in the metal. The table now falls into this groove and is what is making it so difficult to turn. I tried lubricating it to cut down on the friction which made it slightly better but didn't solve the problem so I am asking the larger community for any suggestions. I looked up the part and while it is an inexpensive fix I would still like to know why its doing this. parts diagram attached. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/flagshipone/Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png <a href="http://s36.photobucket.com/user/flagshipone/media/Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/flagshipone/Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png" border="0" alt=" photo Untitled_zpsviypp5vt.png"/></a>

Reading the post from Ron with his mortise and tenon joints got me to wondering. How many of us use a hollow chisel mortise versus hand chopping the joint the traditional way? I bought the Delta mortiser years ago when I built my workbench, and to the best of my feeble recollection, that is the only time I have used it. But then, I haven't done many M/T joints, either. Any thoughts?