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Found 28 results

  1. Furniture Repair & Refinishing (Creative Homeowner Ultimate Guide To. . .) by Brian D. Hingley Note there is a revised version now that is a shorter book (from what I've heard). Buy a used copy if you can find one (and there are some out there, but not the $66 one). As the title hints, there are two parts to the book. The second half is good and talks about stripping and refinishing. Something most of the other 'finishing' books don't dedicate a lot of space to. The first half is a gem. I bought this when I was starting out in the repair business and found it very useful. He covers how to repair all sorts of damage to furniture and is well-illustrated. As an aside, there is a YouTuber, Wooden That Be Nice that does single topic posts on various furniture repairs. He seems to do most of the work in the shop, so making parts is common and he likes to use Minwax stains and poly, something that's not as practical for an on-site job that you need to get in and out in about an hour. But it's useful for someone doing their own (or friends) repairs in their shops. Look for this cover:
  2. Hey everyone,got a good question?how do fix warped cedar,I have an old cedar chest my parents left me and the top got wet an warped the wood top,now it looks like a pirates chest LOL,need ideas on how to un warp it
  3. I received the new control board and potentiometer late yesterday from Delta. I was pleased that is came a lot sooner than they had said it would. Today I set about replacing it. I started with removing the knobs. The red on/off lever requires an Allen wrench to remove the screw found at the lever pivot location and the speed set knob had an Allen screw which tightened down on the potentiometer shaft. Both came off without any fuss. I removed the corner screws that hold the top cover on and remover it. Notice the rocker switch. The forward/reverse lever slides over it to change directions. I removed the potentiometer on the left and pushed it inside. To go any further the whole switch assembly had to be removed from the head stock. Four Phillips head screws hold it on. I was surprised at how little dust was inside. I do run the vacuum over the air circulation louvers on the back from time to time. There is a Phillips head screw on each corner. I removed them and noted that at least four wires needed to unplugged from the board. I cut a wire tie that was holding the wires in a bundle and went and got some masking tape and marked the wires so I knew where they went on the new card. The wires on the corner of the board had terminals marked M+ and M- marked on the board. The other two wires more to the center of the board were connecter to terminals marked AC1 and AC2 on the board. Marked the wires and removed them. The terminal plugs didn't have any locks holding them on but did require a strong pull to get them off. I didn't know if the board would come out yet because there were still four other wires running over the board. A couple of those looked like the board had to come out to unplug them so I gave it a shot. You can see an aluminum heat sink at the lower edge in the picture above and that is the side of the board that has to come up and out from under the wires first. A little fussy but not too bad. The new one went in without much trouble either. Plugged the wires in and mounted the potentiometer. The potentiometer had a locating pin so it can only go in one way. Reversed the removal process and mounted the switch assemble, installed the knobs and plugged it in. Hummed like a new one again. All smiles here.
  4. I made this ornament 2 years ago. It recently to a trip down the steps and damaged some of wood trimmings on it. I wanted to turn it down again to make it slimmer, however I'd probably destroy it trying. So I settled for filling in the missing areas and covering with glitter.
  5. Accidentally caught a pc. of wood and the blade jerked it sideways leaving a bend in it. Any way to straighten it out. I paid a good bit for it, so when you are cheap, cheap, you try to salvage it! Thanks!
  6. So my old drill press is having issues; high pitch bearing whine at top speed (which I use a lot for drilling scrollsaw fretwork patterns), 40+ years old off brand (bought used 40 years ago), chuck just failed, one tooth lower than the other two, can't center a bit. don't know if I can get the morse taper out now (had to use loctite, lowest strength, to get the chuck to stay in the machine) at the time, 30 years ago, I was using a drum sander in the press and any side pressure would make the chuck fall out. loctite fixed it and it has not been removed since. So fix or replace? Brand recommendations for a chuck would be nice. This is not a production machine just general usage and holes for fretwork. If I replace it I want a press that has the same type of table that I currently have, i.e. round table with a round mount/clamp. Tractor Supply has a low end model for $269. All the higher end models I've seen have the square/cantilevered tables, don't really want that style. Thoughts?
  7. Any experience using Tite bond to glue'm ends back together that age broke apart? Cya
  8. How should I go about repairing the tear out to this hard maple top? The board has not been sanded yet. All measurements are approximates. Danl
  9. Sorry as I seemed to redirect from the original posting. This chair is actual an old children's rocking chair dated 1912 that was given to my Mother-in-Law as a yound child. My wife now has this chair and from the first time I remember seeing it the seat has been cracked. Further investigation shows the crack in probably the worst location as it goes through where the back post is attached. So from the attached pictures you can see the extent of the crack and it seems I would need to remove at least two of the screws on the bottom plate holding the bottom together, glue the crack and then clamp and screw it back down? Or is it maybe better to use a filler and try to match the finish? Maybe both? Add some filler with the glue? I've never attempted to repair this old a piece of furniture and being a family piece I'd really rather not mess it up. Just saying, the wife wouldn't say anything but I'd be highly disappointed in myself if I caused more harm than good. Her parents were very much family to me as well and they are both gone now.
  10. I received a message from a friend asking for advise on how to repair this broken child chair. It appears from the pic that the chair stretchers do not have tenons. Looking for suggestions to make the joint stronger than just doing the obvious of gluing the broken piece back on. In the 2nd pic the broken leg is being held in place. Thanks Danl
  11. A decent article on some furniture repair. This seems to work best on heavily colored finishes. https://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_repair_broken_corners_on_furniture?utm_source=Ron's+Weekly+Newsletter&utm_campaign=9a1da10e2d-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_02_03_12_43&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_39db751e08-9a1da10e2d-21654377 Is it too obvious that Minwax is a sponsor? There are much better touch up products -- Mohawk, Guardsman, etc. Lacquer based. I've done a few of these. I had a dog chew up a big section of base molding on a buffet cabinet once. It took several layers and a lot of carving and shaping to get it all back to looking good. When I showed it to the customer for approval, he said, "Wow, you sure got the color right." OK, 45 minutes of Bondo and shaping and a couple of minutes of spraying on a toner. Whatever, I'll take it.
  12. so i have this chair that i had to cut the legs back a bit to fit under my desk. not critical but i would like to add some of the detail back i had to take off. but i have to match to current pattern. I was thinking some sort of mold-able clay or something similar. Any thoughts. It has to be able to wrap a bit so i do not think cutting it to match from wood will work. the detail was carved in prior. any thought or ideas would be appreciated.
  13. I have two battery powered LED lamps with clamping and magnets for mounting. After a couple of years, they just quit. yesterday I disassembled one and in doing so I destroyed the lamp housing. When I disassembled it, I discovered that the neg side of each LED made pressure contact only and that handling/usage causes these contacts to dislodge. I soldered a good copper wire to each and fashioned a lamp case on the lathe. I soldered the wires and gooped the end for a tight fit. Works just fine now.
  14. Relatives have been here this week not much shop time. Our Patriot Turners- @Gerald Posted an offset platter he has turned. It's a beauty! Gerald talks about the size and finish in his post- Gerald also showed us a captive ring goblet he just completed. Captive rings are are fun to make but a pain to sand! Gerald describes his turning- Gerald mentioned Mike Peace's video on making the special tool for his turning. If you would like to create your own tool, here is the video- Gerald is our big contributor this week with a third post! He explains how he made a "soft touch" to protect a turning from damage by the tailstock center. His post has some great photos showing what he did- @Ron Altier turned a small vase/box to hold his wife's knitting needles. Ron really makes use of exotic wood when he creates a project. Check out Ron's post- Ron also followed up on his lathe tailstock repair, from sometime back. Read how he managed to solve the problem- What’s Coming Up- The Virginia Woodturners are holding their symposium on November 3 and 4, 2018 at Expoland, Fishersville, VA. For registration and more information see- http://www.virginiawoodturners.com/index.htm From The Internet- My least favorite part of any lathe project is sanding. I will go so far as to say- I hate sanding. That's probably why I am so terrible at finishing a turning. Here's a video by the "Wyoming Woodturner" describing sanding techniques for turning projects. The video is a little long but hopefully you can glean something from it. Mr. David Reed Smith has been working on turning/creating small birds and bird houses. This link is to an article/gallery of his pieces. In the article, he discusses an upcoming tutorial on how he makes them- http://davidreedsmith.com/Gallery/Birds/Birds.html Everything Else- @DuckSoup was on a road trip and saw this in a shop- Now that's a lathe project!! I've had this idea for making a turning using casting resin and manzanita. It started out OK but I think it may be a colossal failure. The root mounted on a sacrificial block- The end flattened and hollowed about an inch and filled with Alumilite- The root turned away to expose the resin and the resin hollowed to form what I envisioned to be the top of a wine glass. Unfortunately the shape isn't very pleasing. When I began sanding the resin, which is a little over 1/16" thick, the heat from the friction is softening the casting. I can only sand for a few seconds at a time and then wait for it to cool. I have tried using a canned air duster, held upside down, to cool the resin. That works but I really don't think I'm going to be able to get the resin "glass clear". Maybe this will end up being a lidded box. Oh, Well. Safe Turning
  15. I had some repair work to do on some of my faces. The calypso guy was mounted on a stump, up about 3 feet and the stump fell over. Busted him up real good. Fortunately, I found all the pieces.
  16. Saw this piece on AAW forum and thought the bearing info may be of interest to some here. I had a bearing go out on my BS guides and used my last one to fix it . The old ones cost 7.50 each plus 7 shipping from Grizzley so I found 8 bearings for 7.95 on Amazon.I left the whole post intact so the thought of the post is complete. I am a fan of the MultiStar Super 32 live center that I bought from The Sanding Glove some years back. I like a revolving center with multiple tips. I'd burned out an Apprentice one some years ago and tried the MultiStar as it purported infinite life since the bearings could be changed. I believe the same applies to the other MultiStar live centers, but am not sure. The Sanding Glove dropped the line a couple of years ago, and I wondered about that. Apparently lack of supply. I now see that Peter Child in the UK has also dropped it and a German company claims to sell it soon, but not yet. I assume that the original corporation had troubles, despite a fine product. So I bit the bullet and took mine apart. I'm not a machinist but I do know how to remove a retaining ring with "pin pliers". Inside the body of the center I found three bearing races each with the code 6001Z. A Google of that designation gave me sources for the bearings, but my curiosity is endless so I researched the nature of the coding. Bearings are coded with a 7 digit number, but lead zeros are left out. For some reason the standard counts backwards, the "first digit" is the last (actually quite logical since it matches the "units" digit of our counting system). The 01 defines the ID of the bearing as 12mm (which matched my measurement with my calipers of 11.97mm). There was nothing in the coding to indicate the OD of the bearing, the third and fourth digits (the 60) designate the type of bearing. A bit more Googling and I found that the OD is in a standard pattern to the ID, as is the width. It also seems that the worldwide standards are metric, there are few makers of Imperial (inches) bearings even in the US. Remember that the bearing is internal to the device and can be of any standard it wants to be - except in the case where it is DIY replaceable, as the MultiStar is. I am going to place an order on Amazon from one or another of their advertised 6001Z bearings (advertised for specific products, but now I know the 6001Z is uniform). I will order three 6001Z bearings at about 5 bucks apiece and put them in reserve so that if my Super 32 dies I can bring it back to life. This isn't limited to the M/S Super 32, it can apply to any things involving bearings on our lathes. My brief research tells me that the markings on the bearings aren't brand specific, they are an international standard code (except that last letter). Best, Jon
  17. I got to work on my mini tailstock slippage. I went to our local farm store where they have larger washers than hardware stores. As you can see from the pictures of the pictures, small is original one piece, large is my assembly of 4 washers (42 cents) held together with JB weld. I had to do a small amount of filing to get a nice fit. I did some testing and it holds good. The clamping surface has probably doubled. The question is.........will JB weld hold. I was going to solder them and may have to if JB fails
  18. Has anyone here had any experience repairing small chips in granite counter tops? I have a corner that is missing about a 1/4" section off the top corner. It's rough to the touch, not too noticeable, but it needs to be repaired, how do I repair this? Thanks guys!
  19. A friend brought over to me a small table........in parts. She said it has been in her family for more than 150 years. I could see where had been repaired before (maybe 3 times) with hide glue and even it was falling apart. She wanted to keep it as original as possible. The top was awful and it looked like it may have been replaced. There were nail holes on the underside that went in two rows. She said she believed it to be Walnut. When cleaning/sanding some areas, the dust was more reddish than Walnut and the wood was very light. However when I applied a finish to the top, it came out looking like walnut. Having never worked with really old wood like this, I don't know how it ages. Does Walnut act this way as it gets really old? Another thing I found that was unique was that the end of the post, where it goes up in the table, had a tapered slit. You put a tapered shim in and when you tapped the post in, it self tightened. Never even heard of that, but a great idea. The bottom mount board was split in 3 pieces with a forth piece missing, which I replaced. You can also see the red look on the underside of the top.
  20. There are a number of ways to repair minor damage or defects. What you choose is somewhat dependent upon when in the finishing process it appears and the type of damage. Dents Dents can occur in the raw wood (AKA white wood) or at any stage of finishing, including in a piece that’s finished and in use. You can often get out small dents, or at least 90% of the damage, by wetting the wood and steaming. In white wood you can just add in some water, let it soak for a while and applying some light heat with an old clothes iron over a damp cloth. (If you like being married, don’t just sneak your wife’s from the sewing room. I get mine as hand-me-downs when they need replacement). In a finished piece you can do the same thing, but you may need to poke some holes through the finish with a pin. If the wood has pronounced grain, like oak, you can reduce the pin prick look by hitting the open grain. Gaps or cracks Putty fill. There are a variety of putties, many in different colors and some even claiming to be “stainable.” Well, they do stain, but they often don’t look like wood when it’s stained (two parts of the wood might not even take the stain the same.) Perhaps a better approach is to stain and apply the first few coats of finish. Then get a colored putty or add some dye to a neutral colored putty, or several, and match the color near the crack. Apply the putty, let it dry, then apply the final coat of finish. Sawdust and glue. This may or may not work all that well. First, the sawdust will have significant portions of end-grain. Second, the glue may inhibit or alter the amount of stain absorbed. Some people have luck with this; I have not. Liquid epoxy Some people fill major damage such as cracks or knots with liquid epoxy. Poured in and sanded level when set. There is usually no attempt to match the color or grain but to use as an accent. Post –finish damage Wax sticks These are available in multiple colors. It can sometimes help to warm them slightly to make them softer. Again, you might mix several colors to mimic the wood graining. Most finishes don’t stick well to wax, so plan on using this after the finish, not during. Level by buffing. A piece of paper grocery bag works well for this. Epoxy putty or Polyester Filler These are good for larger damage, but you’ll need a way to restore the color and graining. The epoxy putty comes in sticks. Slice off a bit, mix with your fingers until uniform color and press into the damage. Depending upon the type it will harden in 5 – 60 minutes. While still soft, you can shape with an old credit card and soapy water. When partially set, it’s easy to trim with a chisel of razor blade. When fully set you can smooth with file or sandpaper. The polyester filler has a resin and a hardener. A common brand is Bondo. Mix together and apply to the damage. Shape when partially set with a chisel or razor blade and when set, with sandpaper. With both you’ll need to apply color to match. You can do this with marker pens made for touchup, colored toners, artists’ paints, colored pencils, or pigment powders. If the wood has open grain, you can restore this with very light cuts with a razor blade. Apply top coat finish when done. Burn-in repairs You do burn in repairs with a special stick of resin. You melt it with a heated knife and drip into the damage area. The knife is heated in an alcohol flame, a propane torch, a special "oven" or with an electric or butane knife. Then the fill is leveled with the knife. I find a “burn in balm” (sort of like Vaseline) helpful to keep the resin from smearing and the finish from being heat damaged. When level, abrade even with steel wool or sandpaper. I’ve seen a lot of people do these and no two seem to have the same technique. I’ve developed what has worked for me. When I was working full-time, I’d do these practically every day, sometimes up to 100 spots a day. There are two basic kinds of sticks, the traditional ones (originally called “shellac sticks”) that are hard and glossy, and the newer soft ones that have a lower sheen and are more resistant to impact damage. A good burn-in repair will be practically invisible if you get a good match on sheen, level, texture, graining, and color. Quick tutorial: But don't expect to get this right the first time. It takes some practice.
  21. Over the past week or two I've been working on a little bowl turning it from some ironwood a friend sent me. Being this was my first experience with this wood and not knowing how it would turn, it's been slowly progressing. Well I got it almost finished. Inside turned and sanded, outside turned and sanded all that was left was to finish off the bottom. I really liked the calabash rounded look for the bottom so I would need to chuck the piece to have full access to the bottom. A doughnut chuck seemed to be the best option. When I turned the lip, I knew it was a little thin, but it felt solid. Light passing thru the lip/side transition- I was so proud of myself- Nice shape, sanded much better than I usually do. And then it happened- I was just ready to switch over to the Easy Wood Finisher when I got a catch- The force of the catch cracked the rim lip- Too much time invested in this little bowl to pitch it out. But how to remount it? The tenon is gone and the rim is uneven. After some thought and 15 minutes of US Navy adjectives, I repurposed an old lathe jig into a jamb chuck adding a piece of rubber for friction/protection. Made a flat on the bottom of the bowl and then glued it to a wooden faceplate. After the glue set, I realized I should have made a "paper"glue joint for easier removal later. Not sure what I'm going to end up with- certainly not what I originally envisioned when I started!
  22. When the "WOOD" magazine forums were getting ready to shut down I understood the content was to be deleted. I stumbled across an old post of mine from 2011 the other day. Don't know if all the content is still out there but this one is for sure. Replacing a round tenon Steve
  23. Yesterday I was enjoying a nice day in the shop when a flash of light and the Delta 46-460 started running faster than I had ever seen it before. Turns out a nice sunny day turned into an eight minute wind and rain storm that knocked over a dozen trees in the neighborhood. They brought down the power lines and I figure the electrical surge got the better of the speed controller. I never run the lathe if there is any lightening in the area for that reason and now I'm still screwed. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and as you see in the pictures the sun was back right after the storm. This one fell across the street in front of my house. This one is two doors down on the other side of the street. Two doors down the street, six trees fell over wires going to a house and pulled this pole over. On my side of the street the houses sit back 150 feet so another pole is added on the way to the house and that pole was broken too. The wires going to the two houses behind this pole were ripped off the houses including the meter boxes. This happened at 4:00 in the afternoon. The repair trucks came about 6:00 PM and had the power on about 4:00 AM Now the cleanup. Going to have to see what can be done with the lathe.
  24. While fitting arms to a rocker I am building, I pared down one side of the tenon a tad too far, and I had tenon that was too loose on side and too tight on the other. I did a little research and found a method that worked beautifully to fix this problem. Since the tenon is the last part that is shaped in the arm, this means I've already invested a bit of time in the arm, so I was not about to trash it over a loose tenon. So I wanted to salvage the arm. I had my own ideas on how to make this tenon tight, small un-viewable wedges in the mortise, among other ideas, but this idea I came upon was absolutely brilliant. Take note how loose the tenon is, then by eye use our block plane and round up a few shavings from it. The tenon below was shaped by hand, a combination of a hand saw and file, but one side of the tenon was had too much material removed. It looks pretty round, but when I fit it to the mortise, it was a horrible fit, especially after I tried to line up the arm with the front leg, it was angling in the wrong direction. Apply glue to the tenon, then wrap the tenon once with the shaving you produced from the hand plane, trim it, then wrap it again, build it up oversize, this way you can always reshape it. In this case, I wrapped it twice, (in the image below the tenon shoulders are shaped, I worked the shoulders to where I needed them thus the reason why it's a different look than the image above. But it's the same arm.) Trim the access off with a razor knife or other sharp implement of your choosing, and let it set. After I let it set for just an hour, I was able to re-shape the tenon and get the tight, exact fit I needed. It was a great recovery from what I first thought was a nearly hopeless situation. I wish I could quote or reference the source where I saw this fix, but in my haste to find a solution, I whizzed right through it, and out to the shop I went for the fix. I cannot take credit for this great idea, but I can show it off!
  25. It will be a short week in the shop. We head out to Indiana on Thursday. Trying to finish a couple of repairs before we leave. Rocking chairs seem to be finding their way to my shop. I have two on the bench to be repaired. One is just a glue up. Seems the old glue just gave way and it separated. It is now in the clamps and should be out of here today. The other one has a broken rocker. They watch the Gorilla Glue commercials and tried to repair it. Even Gorilla Glue will not hold a broken rocker. So I am making two new rockers for this one. I had an old coffee table brought in that a piece of the mahogany veneer had gotten pulled loose in a move. Thankfully they saved the piece and brought it with them. Got it glued back in place and fit as best as it would go together. Hope you all have a fun week in your shop.
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