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Found 17 results

  1. Gerald

    Bearing Numbers

    Saw this piece on AAW forum and thought the bearing info may be of interest to some here. I had a bearing go out on my BS guides and used my last one to fix it . The old ones cost 7.50 each plus 7 shipping from Grizzley so I found 8 bearings for 7.95 on Amazon.I left the whole post intact so the thought of the post is complete. I am a fan of the MultiStar Super 32 live center that I bought from The Sanding Glove some years back. I like a revolving center with multiple tips. I'd burned out an Apprentice one some years ago and tried the MultiStar as it purported infinite life since the bearings could be changed. I believe the same applies to the other MultiStar live centers, but am not sure. The Sanding Glove dropped the line a couple of years ago, and I wondered about that. Apparently lack of supply. I now see that Peter Child in the UK has also dropped it and a German company claims to sell it soon, but not yet. I assume that the original corporation had troubles, despite a fine product. So I bit the bullet and took mine apart. I'm not a machinist but I do know how to remove a retaining ring with "pin pliers". Inside the body of the center I found three bearing races each with the code 6001Z. A Google of that designation gave me sources for the bearings, but my curiosity is endless so I researched the nature of the coding. Bearings are coded with a 7 digit number, but lead zeros are left out. For some reason the standard counts backwards, the "first digit" is the last (actually quite logical since it matches the "units" digit of our counting system). The 01 defines the ID of the bearing as 12mm (which matched my measurement with my calipers of 11.97mm). There was nothing in the coding to indicate the OD of the bearing, the third and fourth digits (the 60) designate the type of bearing. A bit more Googling and I found that the OD is in a standard pattern to the ID, as is the width. It also seems that the worldwide standards are metric, there are few makers of Imperial (inches) bearings even in the US. Remember that the bearing is internal to the device and can be of any standard it wants to be - except in the case where it is DIY replaceable, as the MultiStar is. I am going to place an order on Amazon from one or another of their advertised 6001Z bearings (advertised for specific products, but now I know the 6001Z is uniform). I will order three 6001Z bearings at about 5 bucks apiece and put them in reserve so that if my Super 32 dies I can bring it back to life. This isn't limited to the M/S Super 32, it can apply to any things involving bearings on our lathes. My brief research tells me that the markings on the bearings aren't brand specific, they are an international standard code (except that last letter). Best, Jon
  2. Ron Altier

    My Mini Tailstock Solution

    I got to work on my mini tailstock slippage. I went to our local farm store where they have larger washers than hardware stores. As you can see from the pictures of the pictures, small is original one piece, large is my assembly of 4 washers (42 cents) held together with JB weld. I had to do a small amount of filing to get a nice fit. I did some testing and it holds good. The clamping surface has probably doubled. The question is.........will JB weld hold. I was going to solder them and may have to if JB fails
  3. Any experience using Tite bond to glue'm ends back together that age broke apart? Cya
  4. Has anyone here had any experience repairing small chips in granite counter tops? I have a corner that is missing about a 1/4" section off the top corner. It's rough to the touch, not too noticeable, but it needs to be repaired, how do I repair this? Thanks guys!
  5. Ron Altier

    150+ years old table

    A friend brought over to me a small table........in parts. She said it has been in her family for more than 150 years. I could see where had been repaired before (maybe 3 times) with hide glue and even it was falling apart. She wanted to keep it as original as possible. The top was awful and it looked like it may have been replaced. There were nail holes on the underside that went in two rows. She said she believed it to be Walnut. When cleaning/sanding some areas, the dust was more reddish than Walnut and the wood was very light. However when I applied a finish to the top, it came out looking like walnut. Having never worked with really old wood like this, I don't know how it ages. Does Walnut act this way as it gets really old? Another thing I found that was unique was that the end of the post, where it goes up in the table, had a tapered slit. You put a tapered shim in and when you tapped the post in, it self tightened. Never even heard of that, but a great idea. The bottom mount board was split in 3 pieces with a forth piece missing, which I replaced. You can also see the red look on the underside of the top.
  6. There are a number of ways to repair minor damage or defects. What you choose is somewhat dependent upon when in the finishing process it appears and the type of damage. Dents Dents can occur in the raw wood (AKA white wood) or at any stage of finishing, including in a piece that’s finished and in use. You can often get out small dents, or at least 90% of the damage, by wetting the wood and steaming. In white wood you can just add in some water, let it soak for a while and applying some light heat with an old clothes iron over a damp cloth. (If you like being married, don’t just sneak your wife’s from the sewing room. I get mine as hand-me-downs when they need replacement). In a finished piece you can do the same thing, but you may need to poke some holes through the finish with a pin. If the wood has pronounced grain, like oak, you can reduce the pin prick look by hitting the open grain. Gaps or cracks Putty fill. There are a variety of putties, many in different colors and some even claiming to be “stainable.” Well, they do stain, but they often don’t look like wood when it’s stained (two parts of the wood might not even take the stain the same.) Perhaps a better approach is to stain and apply the first few coats of finish. Then get a colored putty or add some dye to a neutral colored putty, or several, and match the color near the crack. Apply the putty, let it dry, then apply the final coat of finish. Sawdust and glue. This may or may not work all that well. First, the sawdust will have significant portions of end-grain. Second, the glue may inhibit or alter the amount of stain absorbed. Some people have luck with this; I have not. Liquid epoxy Some people fill major damage such as cracks or knots with liquid epoxy. Poured in and sanded level when set. There is usually no attempt to match the color or grain but to use as an accent. Post –finish damage Wax sticks These are available in multiple colors. It can sometimes help to warm them slightly to make them softer. Again, you might mix several colors to mimic the wood graining. Most finishes don’t stick well to wax, so plan on using this after the finish, not during. Level by buffing. A piece of paper grocery bag works well for this. Epoxy putty or Polyester Filler These are good for larger damage, but you’ll need a way to restore the color and graining. The epoxy putty comes in sticks. Slice off a bit, mix with your fingers until uniform color and press into the damage. Depending upon the type it will harden in 5 – 60 minutes. While still soft, you can shape with an old credit card and soapy water. When partially set, it’s easy to trim with a chisel of razor blade. When fully set you can smooth with file or sandpaper. The polyester filler has a resin and a hardener. A common brand is Bondo. Mix together and apply to the damage. Shape when partially set with a chisel or razor blade and when set, with sandpaper. With both you’ll need to apply color to match. You can do this with marker pens made for touchup, colored toners, artists’ paints, colored pencils, or pigment powders. If the wood has open grain, you can restore this with very light cuts with a razor blade. Apply top coat finish when done. Burn-in repairs You do burn in repairs with a special stick of resin. You melt it with a heated knife and drip into the damage area. The knife is heated in an alcohol flame, a propane torch, a special "oven" or with an electric or butane knife. Then the fill is leveled with the knife. I find a “burn in balm” (sort of like Vaseline) helpful to keep the resin from smearing and the finish from being heat damaged. When level, abrade even with steel wool or sandpaper. I’ve seen a lot of people do these and no two seem to have the same technique. I’ve developed what has worked for me. When I was working full-time, I’d do these practically every day, sometimes up to 100 spots a day. There are two basic kinds of sticks, the traditional ones (originally called “shellac sticks”) that are hard and glossy, and the newer soft ones that have a lower sheen and are more resistant to impact damage. A good burn-in repair will be practically invisible if you get a good match on sheen, level, texture, graining, and color. Quick tutorial: But don't expect to get this right the first time. It takes some practice.
  7. Over the past week or two I've been working on a little bowl turning it from some ironwood a friend sent me. Being this was my first experience with this wood and not knowing how it would turn, it's been slowly progressing. Well I got it almost finished. Inside turned and sanded, outside turned and sanded all that was left was to finish off the bottom. I really liked the calabash rounded look for the bottom so I would need to chuck the piece to have full access to the bottom. A doughnut chuck seemed to be the best option. When I turned the lip, I knew it was a little thin, but it felt solid. Light passing thru the lip/side transition- I was so proud of myself- Nice shape, sanded much better than I usually do. And then it happened- I was just ready to switch over to the Easy Wood Finisher when I got a catch- The force of the catch cracked the rim lip- Too much time invested in this little bowl to pitch it out. But how to remount it? The tenon is gone and the rim is uneven. After some thought and 15 minutes of US Navy adjectives, I repurposed an old lathe jig into a jamb chuck adding a piece of rubber for friction/protection. Made a flat on the bottom of the bowl and then glued it to a wooden faceplate. After the glue set, I realized I should have made a "paper"glue joint for easier removal later. Not sure what I'm going to end up with- certainly not what I originally envisioned when I started!
  8. HandyDan

    Delta 46-460 Repair

    I received the new control board and potentiometer late yesterday from Delta. I was pleased that is came a lot sooner than they had said it would. Today I set about replacing it. I started with removing the knobs. The red on/off lever requires an Allen wrench to remove the screw found at the lever pivot location and the speed set knob had an Allen screw which tightened down on the potentiometer shaft. Both came off without any fuss. I removed the corner screws that hold the top cover on and remover it. Notice the rocker switch. The forward/reverse lever slides over it to change directions. I removed the potentiometer on the left and pushed it inside. To go any further the whole switch assembly had to be removed from the head stock. Four Phillips head screws hold it on. I was surprised at how little dust was inside. I do run the vacuum over the air circulation louvers on the back from time to time. There is a Phillips head screw on each corner. I removed them and noted that at least four wires needed to unplugged from the board. I cut a wire tie that was holding the wires in a bundle and went and got some masking tape and marked the wires so I knew where they went on the new card. The wires on the corner of the board had terminals marked M+ and M- marked on the board. The other two wires more to the center of the board were connecter to terminals marked AC1 and AC2 on the board. Marked the wires and removed them. The terminal plugs didn't have any locks holding them on but did require a strong pull to get them off. I didn't know if the board would come out yet because there were still four other wires running over the board. A couple of those looked like the board had to come out to unplug them so I gave it a shot. You can see an aluminum heat sink at the lower edge in the picture above and that is the side of the board that has to come up and out from under the wires first. A little fussy but not too bad. The new one went in without much trouble either. Plugged the wires in and mounted the potentiometer. The potentiometer had a locating pin so it can only go in one way. Reversed the removal process and mounted the switch assemble, installed the knobs and plugged it in. Hummed like a new one again. All smiles here.
  9. Steve Krumanaker

    The old wood forum archives

    When the "WOOD" magazine forums were getting ready to shut down I understood the content was to be deleted. I stumbled across an old post of mine from 2011 the other day. Don't know if all the content is still out there but this one is for sure. Replacing a round tenon Steve
  10. HandyDan

    R.I.P. Delta 46-460

    Yesterday I was enjoying a nice day in the shop when a flash of light and the Delta 46-460 started running faster than I had ever seen it before. Turns out a nice sunny day turned into an eight minute wind and rain storm that knocked over a dozen trees in the neighborhood. They brought down the power lines and I figure the electrical surge got the better of the speed controller. I never run the lathe if there is any lightening in the area for that reason and now I'm still screwed. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and as you see in the pictures the sun was back right after the storm. This one fell across the street in front of my house. This one is two doors down on the other side of the street. Two doors down the street, six trees fell over wires going to a house and pulled this pole over. On my side of the street the houses sit back 150 feet so another pole is added on the way to the house and that pole was broken too. The wires going to the two houses behind this pole were ripped off the houses including the meter boxes. This happened at 4:00 in the afternoon. The repair trucks came about 6:00 PM and had the power on about 4:00 AM Now the cleanup. Going to have to see what can be done with the lathe.
  11. Classes held at various locations around the US in wood and leather touch up and repair.
  12. John Morris

    Fixing a Loose Round Tenon

    While fitting arms to a rocker I am building, I pared down one side of the tenon a tad too far, and I had tenon that was too loose on side and too tight on the other. I did a little research and found a method that worked beautifully to fix this problem. Since the tenon is the last part that is shaped in the arm, this means I've already invested a bit of time in the arm, so I was not about to trash it over a loose tenon. So I wanted to salvage the arm. I had my own ideas on how to make this tenon tight, small un-viewable wedges in the mortise, among other ideas, but this idea I came upon was absolutely brilliant. Take note how loose the tenon is, then by eye use our block plane and round up a few shavings from it. The tenon below was shaped by hand, a combination of a hand saw and file, but one side of the tenon was had too much material removed. It looks pretty round, but when I fit it to the mortise, it was a horrible fit, especially after I tried to line up the arm with the front leg, it was angling in the wrong direction. Apply glue to the tenon, then wrap the tenon once with the shaving you produced from the hand plane, trim it, then wrap it again, build it up oversize, this way you can always reshape it. In this case, I wrapped it twice, (in the image below the tenon shoulders are shaped, I worked the shoulders to where I needed them thus the reason why it's a different look than the image above. But it's the same arm.) Trim the access off with a razor knife or other sharp implement of your choosing, and let it set. After I let it set for just an hour, I was able to re-shape the tenon and get the tight, exact fit I needed. It was a great recovery from what I first thought was a nearly hopeless situation. I wish I could quote or reference the source where I saw this fix, but in my haste to find a solution, I whizzed right through it, and out to the shop I went for the fix. I cannot take credit for this great idea, but I can show it off!
  13. oldwoodie

    kink in bandsaw blade

    Accidentally caught a pc. of wood and the blade jerked it sideways leaving a bend in it. Any way to straighten it out. I paid a good bit for it, so when you are cheap, cheap, you try to salvage it! Thanks!
  14. John Moody

    Repairs in the Shop

    It will be a short week in the shop. We head out to Indiana on Thursday. Trying to finish a couple of repairs before we leave. Rocking chairs seem to be finding their way to my shop. I have two on the bench to be repaired. One is just a glue up. Seems the old glue just gave way and it separated. It is now in the clamps and should be out of here today. The other one has a broken rocker. They watch the Gorilla Glue commercials and tried to repair it. Even Gorilla Glue will not hold a broken rocker. So I am making two new rockers for this one. I had an old coffee table brought in that a piece of the mahogany veneer had gotten pulled loose in a move. Thankfully they saved the piece and brought it with them. Got it glued back in place and fit as best as it would go together. Hope you all have a fun week in your shop.
  15. Kevin Wells

    Lathe pulley...

    Hi Folks, Its been several months since I last posted. We got moved and started the new job, Now that the house is unpacked, I have started setting up the new shop. I decided to take it slow and do some much neglected maintenance on each of my tools as I go along. Last weekend it was time for Lathe Maintenance. I had decided to replace the belt as the other was the original and had developed a memory leading to two humps in the belt which in turn created a wobble / vibration during turning. I bought one of those vibration-less link belts. All was going good till I took off the old belt, then it all went to heck. The motor side pulley slammed closed as the belt came off. I failed to recognize that the pulley was two parts , one side fixed and one side under tension. As I attempted to pry apart the two parts, the fixed side shattered into several pieces (dozen or so). I assume that since the lathe is variable speed, the motor side pulley expands or contracts (in turn adjusting the diameter of the pulley from 1 to 3 inches) as the speed is adjusted? My lathe is the predecessor to the grizzly 462 (according to the techs, only the tail stock changed, so the headstock side parts should be the same). So here's my question(s) Should I only replace the broken pulley or should I go ahead and replace all the parts along the motor shaft? What would you do? When it comes to mechanical, I'm not the best guy to work on it, So before I make any purchases or commit, I like to get several opinions. Here's a link to the schematic for reference http://cdn0.grizzly.com/partslists/g0462_pl.pdf  The part that has to be replaced is number 9, But I am wondering if I should go ahead and replace 17 through 24? Thanks Kevin Kevin Wells Chuckin' Wood www.chuckinwood.com
  16. The dog days of summer have certainly hit here in the South. It has been in the upper 90's every day with humidity of 70%. When you walk out side you are wearing the humidity. The air went out on my truck this week of all times and had to have it repaired. I was told there was a mixing gate behind the dash and they might have to pull the whole dash to change out the motor and if that was the case, it would be 800 to 900.00. Wow! But I got a call and they were able to change it out without pulling the dash and I got out for 250.00. Sure felt good going home yesterday when it was 98. So this week I finished the 100+ year old rocker and got it delivered to the owner on Wednesday night. It belonged to her Great Grandmother and had been passed down to her mother and now to her. The rockers were worn flat and one of them had cracked all the way through. So I made two new rockers out of white oak like the chair and rub it down with BLO, let it dry and then waxed it. The BLO was a nice match to the finish already on the chair. The back of the chair is the original backing but the bottom has been replaced. I also delivered another rocker that was made for a repair and got it delivered Wednesday night. I made a speaker cabinet last week and when he got it home the speaker didn't fit. He looked at the dimensions he gave me and they were inside, but he didn't tell me they were inside so I made them as the outside as I had done on the other two which were outside dimensions. So anyway, I rebuilt it for him and got it put together last night. It is sitting upside down, the opening will be on the bottom for the cables to pass through and connect to the sub woofer. And let me just say one more time that I really love the Bessey clamps. They are so nice and give such an even clamping. If you are ever looking to add clamps to your collections, I would recommend the Besseys. We are also finishing up another Green Egg table that will be delivered Saturday. So what are you Patriot Woodworkers doing in your shop this weekend? We here at TPW are always interested in what your are working on so please share your projects here with us. I'm waiting to see what you are doing.
  17. John Moody

    A Rocking Weekend

    I have had these two jobs on my board for a while and just seem to keep pushing them back. Saturday morning I got up early and headed to the shop to get some of these small jobs finished and out. I had a customer bring me a rocker that had broken on his old family rocker and ask if I could make a new one to match. He is going to stain to match the rocker and install so I just need to get it cut, smoothed and the mounting holes cut right for him. Here is the old one and the new one clamped to it. I also had this old rocking chair that is over 100 years old to make new rockers for. The old ones and worn flat and down to the point the post were about to come through the bottom. So I made two new ones for this rocker. The picture was before I drilled the holes and it seems I forgot to take one after I set it in them so I will post another picture tonight. All of the rockers were made of White oak. I made these for the old rocker a little thicker and it should rock for a long time now.

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