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For anyone that needs help finding parts or other things for their tools, this list is for you. Below is a list of companies I have come across in my personal search for parts and repairs. Some of them I have used, some not. Feel free to add to the list or let me know about corrections that need to be made. ManualsLib - Owners manuals for just about everything you can think of. Kauffman Tool Repair - Online parts, in-person repairs in VA (Amazing customer service!!!) Renovo Parts - Complete Source for Delta and Rockwell Parts Hammerscale - Delta Reproduction parts M & M Tool Parts - Online parts for most major manufacturers Repair Clinic - Online parts Parts Warehouse - Online parts eReplacement Parts - online parts (for just about everything, not just tools) Mike's Tools - Owners manuals, parts diagrams, and online parts Sulphur Grove Tool - Urethane band saw tires, tools, accessories, etc. Gates Belts - Belts Belt Store - Belts for anything Guide Kits - Band saw guide upgrade kits Wisconsin Knife Works - Cutters, cutterheads, blades, router bits, etc. Router Bit World - Router bits, saw blades, shaper cutters, planer/jointer knives Lee Valley Tools - Hock irons, woodworking tools Schwaiger Woodworks - Sanding supplies, blades, knives -
Someone posted on a refinishing/repair forum that she had a table she'd like to repair. Of the 350 replies, over half recommend more sanding, belt sander, 40-60 grit, hand plane. Sure recipe for blowing thru the veneer. How do I know it's veneer? Look at the edge banding. Solid wood top would never look like that. Look at the grain pattern, it's not edge glued planks. Geez oh pete. Just for reference, strip with chemicals, apply oxalic acid bleach, sand lightly with about 220, and refinish.
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I have a drill press attachment for my mortising machine. I recently had to create a thru mortise on a 2-5/8" think piece (the feet on the bench I am creating. Once bored and my tenons fit I noticed the tenon was too thick given the mortise. I had ridges in the mortise so I took my knife and cut them away but I guess I was cutting not straight. So now the tenon once sanded equally on both side would start in the mortise but then after an inch in it wold drop to the bottom. I am planning on doing the following. I will from the back side of the thru mortise fill the gap with shims then glue them in after the tenon is installed and glued in place. Some of my mortise width is also wider than desired again on the back side only so again insert the tenon glue it in then pack the sides with shims Then glue them in and trim them off then sand smooth. Please note if the tenons were too thin I would of course glue back on the cut offs and recut then them. But in this case I found the mortise to be tapered. Is my proposal sound?
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Have noticed over the past week or so....vise on the end of my bench was getting a bit of the wobbles.....seems a couple screws into the end of the bench have stripped out, yet again....rather than tear the bench apart....decided on something else...Still had a chunk of 1 x 6 Ash.....cut and ripped it to close to size....but it was a tad too thick...we have ways Set this up...blade all the way up, still did not meet up in the center of the board...D8 Rip saw finished the job.. That just might work. Not sure about the thin piece, yet...Had to remove the sliding part of the vise..to drill and counter sink a few holes... There are no holes in the middle, as the steel jaw of the vise is there...Before I installed the moving part of the vise...a drop of 3in1 oil on the rods and the threads...works with just one finger, now.. Tried out a different vise.. Wentworth No. 1.....and it's 2 x stand....checking that this stays put...got a spotlight at the ready, too... Because there are some tiny teeth involved here... Saw is a Jackson 12", 14ppi (yes, I counted) Backsaw...and in the time it took to write this blurb up.... Saw file is back there in the tool tray...saw has been test driven....no binding observed...ready to go back to work... One vise is fixed..the other in use....while trying to get things sharpened and put away... Stay tuned...
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So my daughter has several chairs to repair. I've done this before, so most of the joints have no mystery. However the seat frame has these clever rib tenons that aren't going to come easy (on the non-broken side). My current thought is to just cut the corner brace with my vibro-multitool, fill in the grooves with glue and inserts, maybe add a 1/8~1/4 plate over the inserts, then just use a metal corner bracket. Any suggestions? And if you say "rotate it 180, shame on you!!! :-)
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Our Patriot turners have been busy in their shops this week with a wide range of project! Our Patriot Turners- @Steve Krumanaker accepted his club president's challenge for making gnomes or "gonks". Steve received lots of comments and questions. Please check out his post for more images and ideas- Steve also showed us a new toy he bought. I have to say, I'm kinda partial to this one myself Sooner or later it happens to all of us. @Gerald was turning a bowl and disaster struck. But undaunted, Gerald pressed on and salvaged what otherwise would have been firewood. Check out what he did and the end results at- New member @Reese Aukee posted some of her awesome turnings. Reese is new to turning but it looks like she is a natural and a real eye for creativity!! She shared more of her work here- @Ron Altier is finally getting back into the shop after a brief hiatus as caregiver. As for most of us, woodturning is our relaxation and meditation- All did not goes as planned for Ron. As often happens, "the best laid plans of mice and men..." This post by @Headhunter reminded me that we really haven't promoted our "Ringmaster Sub-Forum" very often. Check out this post for some fantastic creations! Here is the link to the Ringmaster sub-forum- https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/forum/98-ringmaster-turning/ What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for the links to registration and more information- From the AAW- From a social media post by Rebecca DeGroot- For The Newbies- From Carl Jacobson, a video covering some tools that make turning easier- Turning a thin walled bowl has a bit of a learning curve but they are beautiful and elegant. However, thin walled bowls are rather fragile and may not be suitable for utilitarian use. Here, Kent from Turn A Wood Bowl, demonstrates how to have to the best of both worlds. Mike Peace shows us we don't need a chainsaw or a chunk of log to make a bowl- Expand Your Horizons- Some turning, some carving and a lot of sanding when Tim Yoder tackles a Manzanita root- This one's for @Ron Altier. Ron turns crochet hooks for his Mrs. This video, from Alan Stratton, shows how to turn quilting tools. New Turning Items- Woodturners wonders have their Lathe Track System on sale. Check it out at- https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/lathe-track Mentioned this before. Ruth Niles sold her business to Carl and Robin Jacobson. Ruth is holding a clearance sale to avoid having to ship a lot of stock from Pennsylvania to Oregon. Here are some examples of the savings available- Click on the image for the link to more sale items. The sale ends April 3!!! Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- Cherry burl/wood platter from a piece of wood I got at the Nittany Woodturners Club meeting a while back-
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Sometime ago, I was working at the bench, with this opened case on the bench....just as I noticed it was walking towards the edge of the bench.....too late. In the wreck damage....it had torn the lid off the case...taking a bit of wood with it....just enough that I couldn't just re-attach it..stripped out the screwholes, to boot. The only thing that could hold the lid shut was the latch out front.....after a few projects of messing around with that loose lid....time had come to settle matters..... Looked around in the spares box....found a short length of "Piano" hinge....but no screws....kept looking, found a small bag of screws that MIGHT work. Already had the pilot hole drill set up...just had to find the right screwdriver..... Tried to center this up, with the barrel of the hinge right over the "break-out" area. Couple of clamps to hold the lid in place on the box...could hear something rattling around inside. 6 small Phillips head screws...just long enough that the pointy end does not poke through the 1/2" thick sides. Now, about that rattle noise? Yes, these did come with a screwdriver. And it was moving around inside the box. Plane is a Stanley No. 45, Type 5...... You can also see where it hit the concrete floor at....top right corner.. Should be all set for the next job...
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He swung at me a couple of times with his shovel. I guess I was not gluing him back together fast enough!!! He winked at me a couple of times as I was finishing up on him. I did glue that shovel back where he couldn't use it no more on my head.
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Well, last Wednesday in September. Hasn't been a great week, maybe a new month will chase away Mr. Murphy. Our Patriot Turners- @Gerald had some misfortune while turning a hollow form- He was looking for some suggestions on how to have the repair enhance the turning. Check out his post and see if you can offer any ideas- @bradleyheathhays is looking for suggestions on which type of bowl scraper to buy. Several of our turners added their thoughts; what are yours @Masonsailor turned some items for his reloading area. He shows us more of what he did in this post- A week or so ago @Gerald posted about a jam chuck. We are still getting input and inquiries about the chuck. If you made that chuck, please add your input to the conversation- I made a post asking for recommendations on air filtration masks. I really appreciate the input. I haven't decided on the route I want to take. I subscribe to the Alton Brown philosophy that every item should be a multitasker but they should also do those things well. If you have any ideas to add to the already suggested items, I would appreciate it- What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links to registration and more information- For The Newbies- Mike Waldt works on that ash bowls. This is a live demonstration with questions and lots of good tips- Expand Your Horizons- If you are considering learning to cut threads, Mike Peace demonstrates a few tricks for setting up a thread cutting jig- New Turning Items- The Woodturning Tool Store has the NEW Elio-DR Safe Drive- See more at- https://woodturningtoolstore.com/product/elio-dr-safe-drive-2/?receiptful=614cfd7b710e56003dbee782&utm_source=CM Commerce&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter-121&utm_term=newsletter&utm_content=other&receiptfultype=newsletter Everything Else- Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- Been fighting computer problems for the past several days so shop time has been non-existent. Before everything went south, I did manage to get the last batch of rolling pins shaped but not sanded- probably a good thing as I am still hawking up lugies and haven't gotten better dust protection. After the rolling pins are pretty much round and dimensioned, the tapering jig is used to shape them. I used to do this free hand but getting consistent results proved difficult. The base of the jig holds the taper guide at the bottom/back. The cutting is done with a handheld, sliding fixture that houses the HHS cutter and an adjustable follower (bolt). The cutter is removable for sharpening. I'm using a 5/16" square tool stock now. It seems to make a better cut that the 1/4" square cutter I use originally. Cutter and follower bolt- Cutter closeup- After the overall shaping is finished, The tapering jig is removed. Each end of the pin gets the shoulders rounded. I use either a small spindle gouge or the Easy Wood Tools rougher with an R2 cutter. The pins are now ready for sanding. Safe turning and stay well
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Furniture Repair & Refinishing (Creative Homeowner Ultimate Guide To. . .) by Brian D. Hingley Note there is a revised version now that is a shorter book (from what I've heard). Buy a used copy if you can find one (and there are some out there, but not the $66 one). As the title hints, there are two parts to the book. The second half is good and talks about stripping and refinishing. Something most of the other 'finishing' books don't dedicate a lot of space to. The first half is a gem. I bought this when I was starting out in the repair business and found it very useful. He covers how to repair all sorts of damage to furniture and is well-illustrated. As an aside, there is a YouTuber, Wooden That Be Nice that does single topic posts on various furniture repairs. He seems to do most of the work in the shop, so making parts is common and he likes to use Minwax stains and poly, something that's not as practical for an on-site job that you need to get in and out in about an hour. But it's useful for someone doing their own (or friends) repairs in their shops. Look for this cover:
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Hey everyone,got a good question?how do fix warped cedar,I have an old cedar chest my parents left me and the top got wet an warped the wood top,now it looks like a pirates chest LOL,need ideas on how to un warp it
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I received the new control board and potentiometer late yesterday from Delta. I was pleased that is came a lot sooner than they had said it would. Today I set about replacing it. I started with removing the knobs. The red on/off lever requires an Allen wrench to remove the screw found at the lever pivot location and the speed set knob had an Allen screw which tightened down on the potentiometer shaft. Both came off without any fuss. I removed the corner screws that hold the top cover on and remover it. Notice the rocker switch. The forward/reverse lever slides over it to change directions. I removed the potentiometer on the left and pushed it inside. To go any further the whole switch assembly had to be removed from the head stock. Four Phillips head screws hold it on. I was surprised at how little dust was inside. I do run the vacuum over the air circulation louvers on the back from time to time. There is a Phillips head screw on each corner. I removed them and noted that at least four wires needed to unplugged from the board. I cut a wire tie that was holding the wires in a bundle and went and got some masking tape and marked the wires so I knew where they went on the new card. The wires on the corner of the board had terminals marked M+ and M- marked on the board. The other two wires more to the center of the board were connecter to terminals marked AC1 and AC2 on the board. Marked the wires and removed them. The terminal plugs didn't have any locks holding them on but did require a strong pull to get them off. I didn't know if the board would come out yet because there were still four other wires running over the board. A couple of those looked like the board had to come out to unplug them so I gave it a shot. You can see an aluminum heat sink at the lower edge in the picture above and that is the side of the board that has to come up and out from under the wires first. A little fussy but not too bad. The new one went in without much trouble either. Plugged the wires in and mounted the potentiometer. The potentiometer had a locating pin so it can only go in one way. Reversed the removal process and mounted the switch assemble, installed the knobs and plugged it in. Hummed like a new one again. All smiles here.
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So my old drill press is having issues; high pitch bearing whine at top speed (which I use a lot for drilling scrollsaw fretwork patterns), 40+ years old off brand (bought used 40 years ago), chuck just failed, one tooth lower than the other two, can't center a bit. don't know if I can get the morse taper out now (had to use loctite, lowest strength, to get the chuck to stay in the machine) at the time, 30 years ago, I was using a drum sander in the press and any side pressure would make the chuck fall out. loctite fixed it and it has not been removed since. So fix or replace? Brand recommendations for a chuck would be nice. This is not a production machine just general usage and holes for fretwork. If I replace it I want a press that has the same type of table that I currently have, i.e. round table with a round mount/clamp. Tractor Supply has a low end model for $269. All the higher end models I've seen have the square/cantilevered tables, don't really want that style. Thoughts?- 14 replies
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Any experience using Tite bond to glue'm ends back together that age broke apart? Cya
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How should I go about repairing the tear out to this hard maple top? The board has not been sanded yet. All measurements are approximates. Danl
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Sorry as I seemed to redirect from the original posting. This chair is actual an old children's rocking chair dated 1912 that was given to my Mother-in-Law as a yound child. My wife now has this chair and from the first time I remember seeing it the seat has been cracked. Further investigation shows the crack in probably the worst location as it goes through where the back post is attached. So from the attached pictures you can see the extent of the crack and it seems I would need to remove at least two of the screws on the bottom plate holding the bottom together, glue the crack and then clamp and screw it back down? Or is it maybe better to use a filler and try to match the finish? Maybe both? Add some filler with the glue? I've never attempted to repair this old a piece of furniture and being a family piece I'd really rather not mess it up. Just saying, the wife wouldn't say anything but I'd be highly disappointed in myself if I caused more harm than good. Her parents were very much family to me as well and they are both gone now.
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I received a message from a friend asking for advise on how to repair this broken child chair. It appears from the pic that the chair stretchers do not have tenons. Looking for suggestions to make the joint stronger than just doing the obvious of gluing the broken piece back on. In the 2nd pic the broken leg is being held in place. Thanks Danl
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A decent article on some furniture repair. This seems to work best on heavily colored finishes. https://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_repair_broken_corners_on_furniture?utm_source=Ron's+Weekly+Newsletter&utm_campaign=9a1da10e2d-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_02_03_12_43&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_39db751e08-9a1da10e2d-21654377 Is it too obvious that Minwax is a sponsor? There are much better touch up products -- Mohawk, Guardsman, etc. Lacquer based. I've done a few of these. I had a dog chew up a big section of base molding on a buffet cabinet once. It took several layers and a lot of carving and shaping to get it all back to looking good. When I showed it to the customer for approval, he said, "Wow, you sure got the color right." OK, 45 minutes of Bondo and shaping and a couple of minutes of spraying on a toner. Whatever, I'll take it.
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so i have this chair that i had to cut the legs back a bit to fit under my desk. not critical but i would like to add some of the detail back i had to take off. but i have to match to current pattern. I was thinking some sort of mold-able clay or something similar. Any thoughts. It has to be able to wrap a bit so i do not think cutting it to match from wood will work. the detail was carved in prior. any thought or ideas would be appreciated.
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I have two battery powered LED lamps with clamping and magnets for mounting. After a couple of years, they just quit. yesterday I disassembled one and in doing so I destroyed the lamp housing. When I disassembled it, I discovered that the neg side of each LED made pressure contact only and that handling/usage causes these contacts to dislodge. I soldered a good copper wire to each and fashioned a lamp case on the lathe. I soldered the wires and gooped the end for a tight fit. Works just fine now.
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I had some repair work to do on some of my faces. The calypso guy was mounted on a stump, up about 3 feet and the stump fell over. Busted him up real good. Fortunately, I found all the pieces.
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I got to work on my mini tailstock slippage. I went to our local farm store where they have larger washers than hardware stores. As you can see from the pictures of the pictures, small is original one piece, large is my assembly of 4 washers (42 cents) held together with JB weld. I had to do a small amount of filing to get a nice fit. I did some testing and it holds good. The clamping surface has probably doubled. The question is.........will JB weld hold. I was going to solder them and may have to if JB fails
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A friend brought over to me a small table........in parts. She said it has been in her family for more than 150 years. I could see where had been repaired before (maybe 3 times) with hide glue and even it was falling apart. She wanted to keep it as original as possible. The top was awful and it looked like it may have been replaced. There were nail holes on the underside that went in two rows. She said she believed it to be Walnut. When cleaning/sanding some areas, the dust was more reddish than Walnut and the wood was very light. However when I applied a finish to the top, it came out looking like walnut. Having never worked with really old wood like this, I don't know how it ages. Does Walnut act this way as it gets really old? Another thing I found that was unique was that the end of the post, where it goes up in the table, had a tapered slit. You put a tapered shim in and when you tapped the post in, it self tightened. Never even heard of that, but a great idea. The bottom mount board was split in 3 pieces with a forth piece missing, which I replaced. You can also see the red look on the underside of the top.
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There are a number of ways to repair minor damage or defects. What you choose is somewhat dependent upon when in the finishing process it appears and the type of damage. Dents Dents can occur in the raw wood (AKA white wood) or at any stage of finishing, including in a piece that’s finished and in use. You can often get out small dents, or at least 90% of the damage, by wetting the wood and steaming. In white wood you can just add in some water, let it soak for a while and applying some light heat with an old clothes iron over a damp cloth. (If you like being married, don’t just sneak your wife’s from the sewing room. I get mine as hand-me-downs when they need replacement). In a finished piece you can do the same thing, but you may need to poke some holes through the finish with a pin. If the wood has pronounced grain, like oak, you can reduce the pin prick look by hitting the open grain. Gaps or cracks Putty fill. There are a variety of putties, many in different colors and some even claiming to be “stainable.” Well, they do stain, but they often don’t look like wood when it’s stained (two parts of the wood might not even take the stain the same.) Perhaps a better approach is to stain and apply the first few coats of finish. Then get a colored putty or add some dye to a neutral colored putty, or several, and match the color near the crack. Apply the putty, let it dry, then apply the final coat of finish. Sawdust and glue. This may or may not work all that well. First, the sawdust will have significant portions of end-grain. Second, the glue may inhibit or alter the amount of stain absorbed. Some people have luck with this; I have not. Liquid epoxy Some people fill major damage such as cracks or knots with liquid epoxy. Poured in and sanded level when set. There is usually no attempt to match the color or grain but to use as an accent. Post –finish damage Wax sticks These are available in multiple colors. It can sometimes help to warm them slightly to make them softer. Again, you might mix several colors to mimic the wood graining. Most finishes don’t stick well to wax, so plan on using this after the finish, not during. Level by buffing. A piece of paper grocery bag works well for this. Epoxy putty or Polyester Filler These are good for larger damage, but you’ll need a way to restore the color and graining. The epoxy putty comes in sticks. Slice off a bit, mix with your fingers until uniform color and press into the damage. Depending upon the type it will harden in 5 – 60 minutes. While still soft, you can shape with an old credit card and soapy water. When partially set, it’s easy to trim with a chisel of razor blade. When fully set you can smooth with file or sandpaper. The polyester filler has a resin and a hardener. A common brand is Bondo. Mix together and apply to the damage. Shape when partially set with a chisel or razor blade and when set, with sandpaper. With both you’ll need to apply color to match. You can do this with marker pens made for touchup, colored toners, artists’ paints, colored pencils, or pigment powders. If the wood has open grain, you can restore this with very light cuts with a razor blade. Apply top coat finish when done. Burn-in repairs You do burn in repairs with a special stick of resin. You melt it with a heated knife and drip into the damage area. The knife is heated in an alcohol flame, a propane torch, a special "oven" or with an electric or butane knife. Then the fill is leveled with the knife. I find a “burn in balm” (sort of like Vaseline) helpful to keep the resin from smearing and the finish from being heat damaged. When level, abrade even with steel wool or sandpaper. I’ve seen a lot of people do these and no two seem to have the same technique. I’ve developed what has worked for me. When I was working full-time, I’d do these practically every day, sometimes up to 100 spots a day. There are two basic kinds of sticks, the traditional ones (originally called “shellac sticks”) that are hard and glossy, and the newer soft ones that have a lower sheen and are more resistant to impact damage. A good burn-in repair will be practically invisible if you get a good match on sheen, level, texture, graining, and color. Quick tutorial: But don't expect to get this right the first time. It takes some practice.
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When the "WOOD" magazine forums were getting ready to shut down I understood the content was to be deleted. I stumbled across an old post of mine from 2011 the other day. Don't know if all the content is still out there but this one is for sure. Replacing a round tenon Steve
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