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Found 11 results

  1. Ok, I've mentioned this many times and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  2. Hi all, I'm looking for someone who might be able to find / make me a small pencil-holder type vessel out of African Blackwood. Any suggestions?! Thanks so much! -C.
  3. Maybe your old enough to remember your grandparents/great grandparents crank up "Gramophone" with the big horn phonograph or maybe they had the later "Victrola" with the internal horn built into the cabinet or if they had electricity they may have had an "Orthophonic Victrola" AKA as "Electrola" with the Electrola soundbox pickup introduced in 1925. I've been wanting to build a rolling cabinet for my Windows 11 Pro build computer/monitor/usb turntable and after talking a few times with my neighbor "Bruce" he mentioned why not build a "Victrola" style case. We're both fans of the "Golden Oak" era so I kind of liked the idea. The clincher came when Bruce pulled out an old store display of none other than the "Nipper" that stands about 2.5 ft. tall. (I'm still trying to talk him out of that!) That and the fact that I have access to Bruce's salvage furniture pieces he's collected over the years which included this lid and other items. The case will fit on the Larkin desk I'm rebuilding/refinishing which has castors. Guess I'd have to say I heard "His Masters Voice" and the build is on. Here's some of those "Salvage" and "Curb Shopping" items. I've been getting a little done here and there working around the weather and vehicle problems but will have to take some photos later to show what I've got done later when I can. SWMBO is done with car, so I better go change that window regulator so the window will stay up.
  4. Had a request from the church manager back in early November to build a set of steps to the stage. Note there is a set build in on both sides and a portable set on one side for the pastor. Turns out the worship leader (used to be music director ) wanted a set on his side of the sanctuary also. I basically copied the design from the existing. They used a treated stringer and now I wish I had not taken the easy route but that is what we have. The existing used brads for construction and I used screws and pocket screws. I did a glueup for the sides to attach to stringer via screws from inside. Yes this is the part I later had second thoughts about , attaching dry lumber to wet PT wood. Already a crack on one side but it is small. Did not have any larger dimensional lumber so U cut up a step scrap for the back stretcher. Here you also see the screws attaching the riser to the step center. Pocket screws did all the other connections to steps and riser. Front view with extra touch. That strip of walnut was inserted instead of oak to bring the riser up to height. Stair treads were also rounded on the ends. the completed unit And the stain applied. Was fortunate to find straight grain red oak. Got the wood at Lowes and after purchase looked at Marketplace on FB. Sooo much red oak and a lot cheaper than I paid, Oh well that is life. Will probably use Polyurethane as the hard coat next week.
  5. Building these for our turning club. Needed shelves over our lathes for turning wood or other small things. In the historic building we meet in cannot put nails or screws so this is overbuilt. Note this is like shop furniture and not fancy, unusual but not fancy. this is metal is from my shop shelves which were broken when I got them so used the wood and saved these. Did not realize plan was in pic. These are the finished ends for one shelf. The ends of the x was being cut in first pic. Plan is to have two of these facing each other in room and a bar between them to stabilize.
  6. First of all, who decided "Pyrography" would be a good name for wood burning. I can't even spell it, at least as far as the spell checker is concerned. Anyway I have been futzing around in the basement shop supposedly cleaning and reorganizing, well, at least until something to play with catches my attention. I came across a battery charger I was given for parts because it didn't work and I thought someday maybe I could use it to build a wood burning machine. Well that day or I should say days finally came. I opened it up and found the transformer still worked and that is the heart of the machine. The malfunction of the charger happened in the circuit board but I found online that I could eliminate it so I did. The diodes are there to make a correct DC voltage and they are still good but decided just to eliminate the board all together. Here is that circuit board I removed. I noticed the store bought machines had plug in pens and used plugs that appeared to be the same as audio connectors. I didn't want to go out to the store if I didn't have to. Being the pack rat I am I looked around and found what I needed. I drilled the needed holes and installed a jack I had removed from God knows what and hooked the transformer wires to them. To control the heat a standard dimmer switch is connected to the AC power in wire on the hot side. A dimmer switch that powers on as the knob is turned would be preferred over the push on push off style. The heat is adjusted by "slowly" turning the knob and the push type can be inadvertently turned to the highest heat before it is pushed on and blow the fuse. Yep, you know how I know that. Here is a picture of the front with dimmer switch. I put the audio jacks on the back due to space restraints. To make the pens I took some brass rod and used the Unimat hobby lathe to make connectors. I had some small fiberglass pop up tent poles that I cut in pieces for the hand hold. Soldered some audio cables to the tips. I used both available conductors in the wire to carry the current. In use the wires get quite warm and I may have to go to larger wires. I am going to use it as is and see what happens. I'll keep an eye on it and it is not high voltage. 12v. For making the burning tips Nichrome wire is needed. Nichrome wire is what is used for making heating elements. I used a piece from a small space heater. I saved the wire for this purpose when I had a heater I was discarding. Just bend it to what ever shape you want. Comes in different diameters if you choose to buy it. This is just a 6-Amp charger but is more than enough power. I can melt the wire with it. I have played with it a little and found the wire does not need to be red hot for burning but the continuous power is there and holds an even heat. The tip was hot but not red hot when I did this. I'm sure I will need to practice some. Any questions? Ask away.
  7. Years ago our Toshiba big screen went out and we bought a flat screen but never really set it and the stereo equipment back up. I'm thinking floating shelves using $8.99 framing squares bolted to the studs for support or is there another way. I have access to the back of the wall under the stairs... Have some Bamboo ply I would like to use...
  8. So I'm looking around but haven't seen anything that looks complete enough without getting too fancy. As I mentioned before I'm trying to get the shop more compressed and workable...Any links or photos? Not fancy just needs to be the most sensible. I saw these but don't need to laminate and need to combine to be one complete table...
  9. Well, last drawer is DONE! Soooo, how about a few pictures as a PIP? Fancy-schmansy top? Wondering WHAT the Amber Shellac will do to this view? Thinking the "build" part is done....now on to the finishing part... Just a fun, simple little project...better than IKEA ones, though?
  10. As I went out to Lowes to buy some more Gold Plated Pine.... A 2 x 4 x 8'.....a 1 x 4 x 8', and a 1 x 8 x 8'.....$20.26 counting my Mil. ID 10% discount. I could have driven the 28 miles to Menards, and saved about a dollar a board, but Menards doesn't do the Military ID discount. And the gas for the round trip......Lowes is here in town, just 2 miles away. Letting the boards sit in the shop for a day, maybe. Need to crosscut , joint, and glue up for a top. Rip the 2x into four leg blanks. I thought about turning the legs...until I looked at all the junk laying ON the lathe...might just taper two sides instead. 1x4 for the aprons. I could even add a drawer, as I have some plywood stock left over. give it a day or two, and I'll start up the build thread, again... Stay tuned...
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