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Found 86 results

  1. Often people beginning struggle with finishing. They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not. Sort of like using the same tool for every operation. In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.) https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
  2. Here we are on the first Friday of a brand new year. I trust everyone survived all of the New Year’s festivities. I wonder how long it will take us to write 2019 instead of 2018....... This year rings in with a full range of shop activities for yours truly. Tomorrow, I have an appointment to measure a semi circular mantle for a home renovation here in town. It should be challenging but fun. I have a California king bed to build and a pair of cherry bookcases for a local dentist’s office. So, Happy New Year! What’s on you Patriot Woodworker Weekend Agenda?
  3. John Moody is on the road today so I’m filling in. Last weekend, we did a large holiday show on Saturday. It was a 7 hour show with 168 vendors and over 2700 people came through the doors. We did very well at the show AND I was able to get a piece delivered this week that I had been building. Right now I'm building 6” cheese boards since I sold 32 of them last Saturday. Tomorrow we have a charity auction to attend and rest on Sunday. So, what’s on your weekend Agenda?
  4. Can you believe that we’re into November already? The good news is that in 5 days we can retake our televisions from the politicians. As I’ve mentioned before, I’m on the local election board so this is a very busy season for me. This afternoon is poll worker training and Monday is traveling board to vote the shut ins and Tuesday is the general election. I’ve been building a unit for a customer and today was stain day. Hopefully, I can shoot the first coat of Endurovar Sunday afternoon. It is scheduled to be picked up on the 14th. I think I may make it. The pix are with stain only. so tell me, what’s on Your Weekend Agenda?
  5. Mr. Moody is busier than a one armed paper hanger and has asked to do his Friday post. It is crunch time in Indiana. I’m on the local election board and we have been prepping for the November elections. Plus, I’m building a shelved cabinet that has to be out the door by December 1st and I have a show to do on November 10. Busy, busy, busy. Today I’m rebuilding a door for the cabinet because I just didn’t like the way the other one looked. The customer wants inset doors to match an existing piece of furniture and that piece isn’t exactly high quality. It’s been a chore. So gang, what’s on Your Weekend Agenda?
  6. I know of three ways to match a color. Probably more, but we're on the three things track: 1. Mix together multiple stains (in the can). To do this, you need a few stains, a good color eye, samples, and careful measuring and recording. Here is a good article on this. If you have some UTCs or dyes, you could add these to off-the-shelf stains (assuming they are solvent compatible). This would be a good choice for a large project, for example a room's walls, a dining set, bedroom set where you are trying to match some existing stuff. If you are doing a one-off, for example the top-only of a nightstand, this seems like a lot of work, expense and waste. After a bunch of trials, you might end up with a bunch of stain you won't ever use. 2. Have someone else do it. If you go to a good paint store with a good color matcher, they might make a custom stain for you that will be a reasonable match. They, with an experienced color eye, are essentially doing #1. 3. Layers. I have a set of about eight stains and another set of colors that I can add. I call this using the stain to get to the right church and using a toner or glaze to get to the right pew. Try to get the stain a bit lighter and the right base color. I generally go with glazes because I can manipulate them while applying -- a little more, a little less, wipe off and try another, or add a second one in process. I have a number of glazes that I've smeared on some acrylic sheet that I can hold over the stained wood and get an idea what adding the glaze will do. You can spray on a toner to adjust colors. Another way is to add a base coat of dye, then add a wiping stain. Giant sample board -- dyes on columns, wiping stains on rows. It ain't over until it's over. You can adjust color mid-flight. You can always add dark, but it's really hard to add light. When adjusting color, take tiny steps. Glaze testing and a bit of toner on the bottom half. Glaze board Another way of layering is to use layered and manipulated water-soluble dyes. Concepts: Color matching can be a very difficult process, particularly for us males that might be a bit color-blind. The surrounding colors and ambient light can shift colors. The base wood, its color and texture, and overlying finish affect the color. Same stain (two different vendors with a stain named "Golden Oak") on different wood species. Also notice the splotching on the second from the top (Minwax on poplar). Jeff Jewitt describes it, "When it comes to color matching, there is simply no substitute for practice. And the practice will go more smoothly if you make some stain boards and understand some basic color theory* to point you in the right direction." (Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing, p.163) * In upcoming TGIFs Stain board (on maple) bottom - no finish, middle - one coat of finish, top - two coats of finish. AKA "Step board" Stain colors written on back or edges. In my training the instructors said, "Two often, three sometimes,four never." The principle was if you have to add 4 things together, you are probably not going to get the right color, but you often needed two or three. (c) 2018 Keith Mealy
  7. Last week we learned that red, yellow and blue are the primary colors that can make all other colors. Now we apply that knowledge. When you mix two primary colors, you get secondary colors. green = blue + yellow purple = blue + red orange = yellow + red Now comes the important part. If you have a finish that has too much of one color, you add the color opposite to neutralize it, and a (mnemonic) to remember Color opposites Red <> Green (Christmas) Yellow <> Purple (Easter) Blue <> Orange (sorry, you're on your own here, unless like me you are a University of Illinois Alumnus) If you forget, just remember that the opposite of a primary color is a secondary by mixing the other two colors, and vice-versa. So, for example, if your color is too red, you can add some green to neutralize it. But in wood finishing, we have some "earth tones" that correspond to some of these colors Red - burnt sienna (brighter red) or burnt umber (darker red) Yellow - yellow ochre or raw sienna Purple - cordovan The finisher's color wheel shows what happens when you combine two of its colors. Unfortunately, unless you go to a non-big-box paint store, you are likely not to find these on a label, but rather, cordovan might be called "mahogany" or some other nickname. Although I knew this is theory, it became apparent when in a refinishing class one of the other students was working on a table he'd brought in. It was a really orange color after initial staining. The instructor made up a pure blue glaze and smeared it on. Immediately the ugly orange turned to a nice brown.
  8. There are three major types of products that color wood. 1. Dye 2. Pigment 3. Chemical Dye Dyes are chemicals that dissolve into its solvent,that could be water, alcohol, petroleum distillates, or oil. You can find dyes at concentrates as liquids (such as TransTint), powders that you dissolve (Lockwood), or even as part of a canned stain (Minwax Golden Oak). Dyes are dissolved and do not settle out. If you are looking at a can of stain and stir with a paint stick, you will not find any solids at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount by which it is diluted. You can start with a full dose, then dilute part of it to various degrees (half, quarter, etc.) to get the amount of color you want. Keep careful records so you can replicate it if you are making your own dye solutions. Dyes give a very clear coloring, but are more prone to fading over time. Lightfast is more of a relative term. If you get the color too dark, you can wipe with the appropriate solvent and pull out some of the color or you can even add another color to adjust darkness, neutralize (e.g., too red, too yellow, etc.) Pigment Pigments are powders that are suspended in a carrier. Pigments lodge in the grain and pores of the wood (and the sanding marks if you are not careful). And as such, pigments tend to blotch on certain woods due to their varying porousness. Pigments will settle out to the bottom and if you stir a pigmented stain with a paint stick, you will find a muddy residue at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount you wipe off. You can also buy pigments in powder form to make your own products, you can even smudge some powder onto problem spots and lock in place with a spray. Or add pigments on a finishing wiping cloth and pad in some color. These methods are used in touchup. Pigments are usually more lightfast than dyes. Chemicals Chemicals change the color of the wood by chemical reaction. Generally these are acids or alkalis such as ammonia (fumes), lye, potassium permanganate, bichromate of potash, potassium dichromate, iron dissolved in vinegar (iron acetate). The resulting color is not reflected in the color of the solution and the same solution may work differently (or not at all) on different woods due to their different composition. Heartwood and sapwood may also color differently even on the same board. You "control" the color saturation by trials, length of treatment, and in some cases the concentration of the chemical. There are several disadvantages to chemical stains It's a "ready, fire, aim" approach. Run trials. but in many cases, it's going to do what it's going to do and you are not going to stop it. Wood from one tree may not color the same as wood from another tree. Many of these chemicals are toxic or caustic to your skin, eyes, and lungs. Do research and use carefully and with PPE and ventilation. They may be hard to find a place to purchase. A good application of some of these is in inlay work where a chemical may color some of the species, but not others. Again, research, choose woods carefully, and run a trial before slapping on and ruining weeks of work. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=12&amp;ved=2ahUKEwitk4DxgczcAhWk6YMKHVmTBbsQFjALegQIABAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Femgw.org%2FResources%2FDocuments%2FPapers%20and%20Articles%2FChemicalStains.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0l3kGfTTJa7DxfVTrNs7oH An oddball colorant that does not really fit neatly into any of the above is Gilsonite, AKA asphaltic tar. You can use roofing tar dissolved in paint thinner/mineral spirits to get a mid- to dark-brown color. This is the colorant used in some "walnut" Danish Oil products. It's a nice color that is hard to get with the above. (c) 2018 Keith Mealy
  9. Waterborne finishes have come a long way since first introduced 25 or so years ago. They were pretty awful then, but very good now. Pros: + fast drying - usually, you can sand and re-coat in about an hour + low odor - other fast-drying finishes like lacquer and shellac can have some strong solvent odor while drying. So it works well if you are finishing in a house or baswement + no added color - perfect when you want a non-ambering finish such as one over a white stain (pickled finish) or other non-wood tone color Cons: - less chemical resistance - not quite as resistant to common solvents as some of the other finishes - does not cure well in cold, needs at least 65 degrees or so for several days - lacks amber color that we're used to so some woods can appear washed out, or even bluish, unless a stain or under-coat of shellac applied.
  10. There is not a lot of things to say about wax finishes, so only three things, not three pros and three cons. I am not talking about waxed finishes, but simply using a wax as the one and only finish. Some waxes are light amber, but you can get waxes in a variety of darker colors where the color has been added. Wax is an evaporative finish, meaning with the thinner or solvent evaporates, you are left with the finish. No more chemistry happens. Usually the solvent is mineral spirits, but sometimes, as in the original Briwax, it's something else, in that case tolulol (aka toluene). (So the original Briwax can be a bit too aggressive for new finishes as it's meant more of a restorative wax over a finish, that is, a waxed finish). Waxes are one or more of three types: - Animal (e.g., beeswax) - Vegetable (e.g., carnauba) - Mineral (e.g., paraffin) Three things: + easy to apply - to quote a movie, wax-on, wax-off. Let most of the solvent dry, then buff out. I like to say you want a finish just a few molecules thick, so take off as much as you possibly can, then buff a little more. Wax build-up can attract dirt and not be very attractive. + easy to repair - Just add some more - wax on; wax off - minimal protection - while wax can beautify a wood, it does not do much to protect it from moisture, soiling, etc. It would be appropriate for things that don't get much contact such as art turning, picture frames, etc.
  11. Indedendence Day 2018 is now in the books and all of the dogs are beginning to calm down. Fortunately, our heat wave has broken here in Indiana also. Grandpa Dave, did I pick a good year to install a new HVAC system, or what! It’s been a slow week in the shop. I built and delivered a double sided map case to a friend and it was a labor of love. We decided to make it a desk mount, though. Nothing planned for the shop for me this weekend. How about y’all. What’s on Your Weekend agenda?
  12. Three things about oil finishes and closely related oil-varnish finishes. The latter is simply a blend of (three things) oil (usually linseed) varnish (alkyd, urethane, or phenolic or a mix of these) thinner The proportions vary a lot and these three things mix in any proportion the manufacturer or you want. You can even make your own; most people start with equal amounts of each. When I was a newbie, I even took a commercial Danish Oil and added varnish to it to "beef it up a bit." Oil and oil-vanish blends are probably the most mislabeled or misleading labeled products. For example, when you buy a "Tung Oil Finish" there may be not tung oil at all - it might be an oil-varnish blend, or just a thinned wiping varnish. And what about "teak oil finish," "Danish oil finish," "Val-oil," "Antique Oil," or a "Oil-urethane blend" (that is actually just a thinned wiping varnish? How do you tell what you have? The best way is to put a drop or two on some glass and let it cure. If it's smooth and hard, it's a varnish. If it's soft and wrinkly, it's an oil And if it's smooth and hard in the middle and wrinkly around the edge, it's a blend. The more wrinkly, the higher percent of oil. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use Anyway, on with the show: Three things: Pros + easy to apply - simply wipe on, wait a few minutes (more for pure oils, less for oil-varnish blends) wipe off, repeat (a day later). Does not have brush marks, drips, runs, and dust nibs if you wipe excess. + easy to refresh - wipe on, wipe off another coat even years later + soft, "in the wood" finish - does not form a film finish so the texture of the wood is visible and tactile Cons - needs refreshing - over time the finish can dull and look listless. Some say it crystallizes and sloughs off - minimal protection - very little protection from abrasion, water, soiling, and other contaminates - can’t build film - you cannot build a film that you can provide more protection. If you try, you can end up with a soft and sticky surface. On ring-porous woods like oak, you can also get some bleed-back that forms little dry bubble globs if you leave it on too thick. On these woods, you may need to come back every few hours after application and wipe again.
  13. Summer is flying by. Here we are headed into the final weekend in June and we’re looking at Independence Day next week. Shop wise, I started a small job this week. I’m building a double sided glass shadow box for a friend of mine. His dad was a WWII Purple Heart vet and served in the South Pacific. He was carrying a silk AAF map of Japan with him when he was hot in the arm and I’m building a case for the map. BTW, the map still bears the blood stains of his father. Originally we were going to build the case to hang on the wall but with a weight of 24 pounds he opted to make a desk mount. Unfortunately, I failed in convincing him to let me put UV archival glass in it. Too costly he felt. Sigh. Anyway, they’re calling for excessive heat warnings for Indiana so I’m planning not to stray far from the A/C. What’s on your Patriot Woodworker agenda?
  14. Three things about lacquer: Pros (which is why they are often used in production furniture) + Fast drying, even the slow drying "brushable" lacquers dry in 30 minutes or less + Wide variety of sheens available from flatter than dead flat to high gloss (0 - 85+) and hard enough you can adjust sheens easily with abrasives or polishing compounds + Easy to repair because adding more melts into existing Cons - High odor during application - Not quite as resistant as varnish to chemical damage - solvents and white water rings - Can blush in high humidity application
  15. It’s been a light week here at Above and Beyond WoodWorks. I completed a small bookcase that I have up for sale and I’m mentally thinking through a two sided hanging map display that I have been commissioned to build. The enjoyment of the week came yesterday when my daughter brought our 12 year old granddaughter and her cousin over to spend the night. Our daughter is an elementary school art and music teacher and she has a knack for getting dear old dad roped into projects. Usually, I go willingly. She brought over a rolled oats container that was half full of hardened epoxy. Mixed into the epoxy was a random group of colored pencils. We peeled the cardboard off the outside, mounted it to a faceplate and gave her a lesson in turning. Remember that I usually turn out of necessity but this was fUn because we did it together. The bowl had a few air pockets in it but we together. It’ll be a guitar pick holder so a couple holes won’t hurt it. As for the weekend, there’s no shop time. We still have the granddaughter through Saturday and Sunday is worship and the the LOML and I are headed to Indy to a Doobie Brothers and Steely Dan concert. So gang, What’s on Your Weekend Agenda?
  16. Last day of spring here, heat index over 100 and about the 10th day of high temps and humidity. Ready for fall. Three Things about Varnish: Pros + Very protective + Higher chemical & abrasion resistance + Cheap and readily available. Just about any hard goods store, even groceries, will carry some varnish. Cons - Slow to apply & cure - takes days vs. minutes or hours - Not very repairable compared to most other finishes - Can add amber color
  17. A good Friday morning to all of you Patriot Woodworkers. If you've been keeping up on the forums, it has been a very busy week for y'all and it appears that many projects are in the works. This week, my wife and I broke down and bought new phones. My carrier had a BOGO on iPhone 8s so we're now learning the nuances of the new toys. Also this week, I built a small bookcase, just because. Just because I had a half sheet of plywood in the corner and it was more fun to build something with it than move it around. The case is only 24" wide and 48" tall and I'll probably put it up for sale at my next show. Its been fun because I really didn't know what color(if any) to dye or stain it so I made a sample board and threw it out on my Facebook page as a poll. As of now, its either golden oak or red oak stain. The weather here is predicted to be extremely hot and my son and I are going to build an 80' fence on his new property that is now totally houseless. So gang, what's on your agenda for this weekend? Starting a new project, finishing one or simply relaxing?
  18. About Shellac: Three Pros: + barrier for wax, silicone, odor, resins, water vapor. Seals those things in well. + fast drying. Usually dries in 30 minutes, less for spraying + easy to repair. Just add some more and it will melt in. Three Cons: - gloss only, but can be rubbed to lower glosses - susceptible to alkali, water. Being acidic, it does not do well with things like ammonia in Windex. - shelf life limited. Starts to degrade in as little as one year.
  19. Sitting here by the pool in east central Indiana watching the hummingbirds feed. This morning is cool, crisp and damp and the coffee is hot. We finally got some much needed rain last night so all is right with the world. This has been a laid back week with just a little shop time even though my to do list is long. I am retired after all! On Wednesday, Dorothy and I took our two youngest granddaughters to Shipshewana Indiana to attend a large flea market and see the sights. Shipshewana is Amish country filled with shops and amazing food. If you're ever in northern Indiana, it is a great place to spend the day. I did manage to make some progress on a few gun display cases this week and will finish them today. The oak one is sold already and since I was building, I made a cherry and walnut one for stock. The oak case will also have the owner's ID and badges from his lifetime as an arson investigator. On a side note, the pistol laying in the case is the least favorite gun I own. It is a Ruger P95 and shoots fine but it has an odd feel to m y hand. It does make a stellar demo for the case. No big plans for the weekend so far but what's on your Patriot Woodworker agenda for this weekend?
  20. First off, there is a difference between a thinner and a solvent. A solvent dissolves things. A thinner thins things DUH (reduces the solids and alters the viscosity). What makes thins even more confusing is they way they name things. Lacquer thinner both dissolves and thins (because it contains both solvents, co-solvents, and thinners). Paint Thinner thins varnishes, but dissolves waxes. But anyway, (chemistry lesson) 1. Distillates generally of petroleum. Common ones are mineral spirits and naphtha. Less commonly used ones are kerosene, xylene (xylol), toluene (tolulol), benzene (a carcinogen), and benzine, and even turpentine (a distillate of pine sap). These have different evaporation rates, oiliness, and smells. These generally thin (oil-based) varnishes and are in some lacquer thinners. Xylene will soften cured water-borne finishes. Most of these will dissolve waxes, oils, and some adhesives. d-Limonene is a distillate of citrus rinds; it's found in some cleaners/polishes/degreasers/adhesive removers. 2. Alcohols and Ketones. Alcohols include ethanol, methanol, and isopropyl. "Denatured alcohol" is ethanol (grain alcohol - everclear booze) with enough methanol (wood alcohol) added to make it poisonous to drink (and so it does not need to be taxed as booze). Chemically, a ketone is an oxidized alcohol. Common ones are acetone and MEK. Alcohol is a solvent for shellac and alcohols and ketones are often part of lacquer thinners. 3. Glycol Ethers are a large class of chemicals and are in water-borne finishes. Two major classes are ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. They soften and make sticky the large resin molecules. As the glycol ethers evaporate the resin molecules bond together. Cellosolve is a trademark for a glycol ether.
  21. Well gang, we are ushering in a new month as June is upon us. I trust your holiday shortened week has treated you well. As many of you already know, last Sunday was race day for my son and I as we sweltered in the 92 degree heat with 300,000 of my closest friends. One of the many traditions at the Indy 500 during the pre-race ceremonies is the blowing of taps to pay honor to those who gave their lives fighting for this country. Just across the track from us is the infamous "Snake Pit" where 30,000 highly intoxicated people listen to rack music instead of watch the race. Interestingly, during the pre-race festivities all music stopped but there was still lots of crowd noise. However, when taps were blown the entire speedway was stone silent. You could hear absolutely nothing and it was one of those solemn moments I'll never forget. My week has been light as I played lifeguard in our pool for the grand-kids but I did manage to get a good start on three pistol display cases. One cherry, one oak and a walnut. Tomorrow I've volunteered to help my son build a 12 X 16 shed. So, Patriot Woodworkers, what's on your weekend agenda?
  22. Cleaning a varnish brush, three steps. 1. Wipe off excess on a rag or paper towel 2. Use the three-jar (or two-jar) method. * The first jar (labelled III (or II)) contains the previously used mineral spirits / paint thinner. Dip in the brush and slosh it around. Take it out and wipe it off on a rag. * Repeat the process with the remaining jar(s). * Put a lid on the jars and save them for next time. * When the first jar becomes full of crud, pour off any clear on top into the next jar. Then throw the first jar away. Demote jar II to jar III (just add a "I") If you are just using two jars, then I becomes II. 3. Rinse with lacquer thinner. This will remove the oiliness of the mineral spirits. Wrap in original wrapper or a paper bag strip with rubber band and let dry.
  23. Well folks, we have made it through the week and we're staring at the first holiday weekend of the summer of 2018. Memorial Day always conjures up memories for me. I have a picture around here of me when I was about 8 years marching in my Cub Scout uniform toward the cemetery on Memorial Day. We always made the tour of the cemeteries to place flowers on the graves of our relatives and Dorothy and I still do. Back then the Indy 500 was run on Memorial Day, not the Sunday before and I would sit on the front porch listening on a static laced AM radio imagining the action in my mind. Those dreams did come true and I have attended the race many times and have only missed it 3 times since 1964. Twice when I was serving for my favorite uncle (Sam) and last year when my seatmate and son had emergency gall bladder surgery 3 days before the race. This year's race is forecast to be a hot one with the high coming in around 90. Couple that with the track temperature of about 130 degrees, it will be toasty in row EE of turn #3. The picture below is close to where we sit so here's our view. So Patriot Woodworkers, what's on your agenda this Memorial Day weekend? Woodworking, picnic, nothing?
  24. Three techniques for good varnish finish Thin the finish. Most varnishes will flow out better if you thin them a bit. I like to thin the first couple finishes a lot (50:50), then move to 60:40, then 90:10 for subsequent coats. Stir well to bring the flatteners into suspension and regularly during application because they will settle out faster in a thinner finish. I like to pour out the varnish into a separate container so I don't contaminate the can. Brush technique. First, use a good, natural bristle brush. "Condition" it before use by wetting with mineral spirits, then wiping with a clean rag. Dip the brush into the varnish and remove excess on the side of the container. Start the strokes away from edges or you'll get a run on the edge. Work from one end to the other. When the whole surface is covered, wipe the varnish off the brush, hold it nearly vertical and "tip-off" the finish by lightly passing the brush from one end to the other. This fills the dry spots and cuts down the heavy spots. Sand between coats. Let the finish dry at least overnight. Sanding will remove the defects like dust, lint, and bubbles in the slow-drying finish. A good sandpaper is 3M's 216U, sold as "Sandblaster." P400 grit is a good one to use. This will level and remove the defects. A follow up with light gray Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Fine Hand Pad 7448 will provide an even dullness. Remove the dust with a cloth dampened in mineral spirits or naphtha. Steel wool can leave shards that might eventually rust.
  25. This has been a beautiful week in east central Indiana. The trees are fully leafed, the temperature has averaged in the high 70's and most importantly, its racing time in Indiana. I'm a huge Indycar fan and since we live in the mecca of open wheel racing, I have to attend. I've missed only 3 Indy 500's since 1965. Two when I was serving time with my favorite uncle (Sam) in SE Asia and last year. My son and seatmate had emergency gall bladder surgery a couple days before the race last year and we opted to watch it on TV. Just isn't the same. You don't get the smell of the burnt fuel and the lunacy of the Snake Pit drunks. I have 5 tickets so if you ever get the yen to go, let me know. Yesterday, we completed our part of the de-construction of my son's house and we're waiting on a local guy to show up and rip the concrete slab out and take it away. I spent a little time in the shop this week building a pair of cherry veteran's burial flag cases but all in all it has been pretty calm. Patriot Woodworkers, what's on your weekend agenda?

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Operation Ward 57 Challenge Coin Display Project

We are a woodworking community with an emphasis on sharing and learning the skilled craft of woodworking and all of its related disciplines. Our community is open to everyone who wishes to join us. We support our American veterans and active duty, being a veteran is not a prerequisite to join. Join us now!


Air Force Command Center Plaque

Of course just like most online woodworking communities we are centralized in the arts, crafts, and trades that are woodworking. But, we have another focus in our Patriot Woodworker community, we are the only woodworking community that was founded on our care and concern for our disabled veterans.


Patriot Woodworker Volunteers

The Patriot Woodworkers are an all volunteer community, from the staff and hosts who run our online woodworking community to the members who frequent our forums, you'll find volunteers in all of us. We are not on a payroll, unless you consider the spiritual rewards gained from volunteering, as compensation.



One of the many projects we are working on is a wiki for our online community. A wiki is a great way for woodworkers and enthusiasts to share their knowledge to others, and to impart their knowledge for others to learn from, and utilize as well for their own benefit. We hope you'll consider being a wiki contributor.