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Found 99 results

  1. Here we are on the last day of May and it isn’t raining in Indiana.......yet. We have been deluged with rain for the past 6 weeks and the farmers here are in panic mode. I have a good friend that farms 3,000 acres and he has zero crops in the ground. This has been an interesting week. Sunday was race day and all weather forecasters predicted a rain shortened race. They were wrong. In fact, they got the whole race in. I’ve finished and installed a cabinet this week and today I’ve spent the whole day building a prototype keepsake box for a customer that wants 15 boxes built as a memorial to her 3 month old grandson who died suddenly. I found a piece of buried walnut to make the top from. My oldest granddaughter graduates high school Sunday so this weekend is chock full of graduation festivities. So, what’s on your Patriot Woodworker Weekend Agenda?
  2. Show season is upon us. I had one last Saturday and John Moody is setting up today for a large 3 day juried show in Florence, Alabama so he’s asked me to hang a post for him. I’ve spent the week running between grand-daughter school events as the school year closes down and the oldest one graduates in a couple of weeks. The only shop time I’ve had this week was dealing with quotes. I quoted a. Murphy bed, 15 keepsake boxes and polishing out a table for a local fire station. So, what’s on your Patriot Woodworker Weekend Agenda?
  3. Hey gang, welcome to the weekend. This is NRA convention weekend in Indiana but I was forced to stay home because I’ve been fighting a minor eye issue. I did get credentials though. I’ve been building some accessory cabinets for the local Elk’s lodge here in town and I just finished cabinet number 3 of 6. So, I have to ask, “Whats on your Patriot Woodworker agenda for the weekend?”
  4. I don't care much for it, but if you wish to engage in this (and it might just be a current fad). There are some ways to simulate it. https://www.familyhandyman.com/woodworking/how-to-make-your-own-barn-wood/?fbclid=IwAR2F_PJvolB7RU4HKeUJp9hz6OD4WZQMazed_RwCmvJNEZe6wpcJRhbYmXY&trkid=soc-fhm-facebook or a "weathered wood stain."
  5. Interesting article came across my feed this morning https://www.popularwoodworking.com/editors-blog/watco-waterlox-and-deft-are-known-by-their-brand-names-alone/?utm_content=buffere7d88&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer&fbclid=IwAR3kn-ONW0oZr0mDJMZ0EQG4LIxZZ-WdB30d7VQzFejf1viTl8Ed85Ny4Mg Couple of comments: Watco. It has gone through a number of owners since the original, Watco-Dennis was sued because some idiot burned down his house due to spontaneous combustion of the rags and sued them. The last I looked at the SDS it was roughly 2/3 mineral spirits, 2/9 linseed oil, and 1/9 varnish. Some versions have coloring added. Waterlox. If you look at their web site, they consistently talk about "tung oil" almost everywhere except for one obscure page that says something like "What we make is a varnish. It has always been a varnish." They have some new lines of products that I've not looked into nor used yet. So maybe that has disappeared." Deft has introduced a new line of waterborne finishes and the top line is still "Deft Clear Wood Finish" and you have to read the tertiary lines to determine if it's the solvent- or water-borne versions. Ripe for one of those clickbait, "Only 4% of people can pass this test, can you?"
  6. kmealy

    Blushing

    Got sent some child's Windsor-style chairs that "had white paint smeared all over the seats." I don't know how old these are but since the church was started in 1894, I'm guessing they are about as old as I am. These were popular when I was a kid and was my very first refinishing project when I was about 14. Well, a quick rub with a "white ring remover cloth" showed that it was water in the (old) finish that blushed it. Very common with old lacquer or shellac. A padding with a cloth dampened in denatured alcohol cured the rest of the stains in no time. I should have taken a photo. (But I'll attach some before and after of a job I did a while back where the antique barrister's bookcase sat in a leaky moving van, under a mover's blanket on a hot summer week. Same procedure. Owner was worried it might need to be refinished "and destroy the antique value." Took about 10 minutes.) One of them was really loose in the joints and the DPR (dreaded prior repairer) had gone wild with Gorilla Glue. I hate that stuff when it comes to failed repairs.
  7. Here were are on the first day of March! The calendar says spring is on the way, the groundhog says that spring is on the way, but Mother Nature didn’t get the memo. We’re supposed to get 4 - 6 inches of the white stuff this weekend, but it is basketball sectional time in Indiana. Grandpa Dave will understand the previous statement. Speaking of basketball, our local team, the Blackford Bruins (22-4) take on the #1 ranked Delta Eagles (26 - 0) in the sectional tonight. Our Bruins have a Sophomore by the name of Luke Brown that is averaging 36 points a game and on track to breaking the state scoring record. Google it and watch his videos because he’s an amazing young man. As for woodworking, I’ve been trivet making this week and just started building a California king bed for a client. She’s not in a hurry and neither am I. So, what’s on your Patriot Woodworker Weekend Agenda?
  8. I spent about 4 hours yesterday wiping stain on three cabinets I'm building. I think there's about 7 sheets of plywood in there, plus some trim, and both insides and outsides and lots of little corners. I usually wipe on stains with a rag. That was working, but some of the surfaces had to be one vertically and there were lots of drips (luckily I had rosin paper and drop cloths down). To get into the concave crevices I finally got a foam brush. And about half-way through, I just started to use it on the vertical surfaces as it seemed to go faster. and fewer drips. But by the time I was done, it was pretty much shreds. While cleaning up, I remembered a tip to use a piece cut off a grout sponge. Duh! I had those in the next room where I keep finishes. I've used this for applying dyes but not for pre-canned stain. I'll remember that next time and save myself a lot of time and mess.
  9. A good comparison of linseed vs. tung oil One other difference is that if you apply subsequent coats of tung oil before what's there has fully cured, it will fog up and nothing will fix it except stripping and starting over. Be aware that many products are called Tung Oil Finish that are either linseed oil or linseed oil-varnish blends. If there is anything that looks like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons, etc. in the SDS, it's probably the latter and not really tung oil. Blame the huckster Homer Formby for starting this massive mis-representation. On another forum this week someone asked about finish for a wooden cup. One responder recommended "organic flaxseed oil." I don't think he realized two things: - this is just another name for raw linseed oil, that the article states takes weeks to cure - that after a few weeks of curing, linseed oil has 0 moisture excluding efficiency See chart 16-3
  10. A collection of articles by Woodsmith on finishing. My only caution is that "pre-stain conditioners" don't always work as advertised, or as shown in the example. I just saved you $7.95
  11. Often people beginning struggle with finishing. They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not. Sort of like using the same tool for every operation. In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.) https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
  12. Here is an article on cold weather finishing. Note that it is supplied by a vendor so they lean toward their product. Remember that finishes "cure" by one of three methods Evaporation of the solvent (spaghetti) lacquer, shellac, and wax Chemical reaction with oxygen (tinkertoys) varnishes (that also contains a dilutent that evaporates off first) and oils Bonding of large molecules that have been softened (soccer balls) water borne The first dry fast (minutes) but to fully cure take a bit longer, the second and third get solid in a few hours, but can take up to 21 days to fully cure. Note that most chemical reactions double their speed with every 18F (10C) rise in temperature, conversely take twice as long when temperature drops, or may stop completely.
  13. A decent article on some furniture repair. This seems to work best on heavily colored finishes. https://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_repair_broken_corners_on_furniture?utm_source=Ron's+Weekly+Newsletter&utm_campaign=9a1da10e2d-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2019_02_03_12_43&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_39db751e08-9a1da10e2d-21654377 Is it too obvious that Minwax is a sponsor? There are much better touch up products -- Mohawk, Guardsman, etc. Lacquer based. I've done a few of these. I had a dog chew up a big section of base molding on a buffet cabinet once. It took several layers and a lot of carving and shaping to get it all back to looking good. When I showed it to the customer for approval, he said, "Wow, you sure got the color right." OK, 45 minutes of Bondo and shaping and a couple of minutes of spraying on a toner. Whatever, I'll take it.
  14. The big big thaw is on in east central Indiana! It’s a balmy 17 degrees and I suspect the robins will be flying in at any time. Last night the temps began to rise and we got 5 inches of snow. The coldest we got this week was -17 but it was bearable because I keep my shop heated. This week I had 2 major accomplishments other than staying warm. Last Monday, I braved the snow and picked up a Dewalt 735 planer 5hat I bought and I managed to complete a mantle for a client. I’ll install it next week and add a bit of trim to match. So, Patriot Woodworker’s, what’s on your weekend agenda?
  15. This was an oft-referenced article on Wood, then Steve's store,Hardwood Lumber & More, then Steve's personal site, all of which have gone away. I hope this is fair use: PAINT ON A CLEAR EXTERIOR FINISH By steve@AskHLM.com on 3/22/2014 Paint On A Clear Exterior Finish We woodworkers (especially when it comes to finishing) are creatures of habit; we use the finishes we use because they are the finishes that we have always used. But, from time to time it's good to step back and examine old "truths" just to see if they really are true. The use of marine varnish to finish exterior elements in non-marine applications is one of those "truths" that has long needed to be revisited. That is the purpose of this article. Several years ago when I began participating in the WOOD Magazine Finishing & Refinishing Forum we regularly saw questions from homeowners and others asking for advice on the best way to finish exterior doors, especially those exposed to the weather and subject to high UV. The options then were Helmsman Spar Urethane (and its polyurethane look-alike competitors), expensive marine varnish, and exterior paint. Over the years little has changed except that, thankfully, more and more woodworkers today understand just how poorly any finish that contains urethane resin will perform when exposed to UV. Even with only partial exposure to direct sunlight polyurethane will fail quickly, often peeling like a bad sunburn before the end of even a single season. Marine varnish, then as now, was the recommendation of choice offered by a number of contributors. There is no arguing that quality marine varnishes will outperform polyurethane "spar varnishes" if UV resistance is the only objective. But, good marine varnish is very expensive; and, in reality it offers no reprieve from regular, on-going maintenance. You must still tend to the finish every year in full-sun environments; you must inspect, sand damaged areas, and recoat. Further, even those who regularly recommend marine varnish products will tell you that a minimum of 5 or 6 coats is required to obtain the full benefit of these finishes. So, not only are you applying two to three times more varnish; you are applying a product that costs two to three times more, and your maintenance schedule is unchanged. Further, it is important to understand that marine varnish is "long-oil" varnish; varnish that is softer and much less resistant to moisture in the form of water-vapor than regular or "short-oil" varnish. Moisture movement into and out of the wood with seasonal changes in relative humidity is every bit of destructive to joinery as UV is to wood. These quality marine varnishes are excellent finishes in their intended environment. If I owned a wooden boat I would use nothing else. But, we are not talking about maintaining a boat; our objective is to apply a durable finish to a front door and to use a finish that will offer maximum protection along with minimum maintenance. Quality oil-based exterior paint, sans the pigment, is ideally suited to this application. Exterior oil-based paint, after all, is little more than exterior oil-based varnish with a lot of pigment added. Remove the pigment and you have a very durable exterior varnish with additives that benefit the finish on your front door. These additives, intended to discourage insects such as wasps and wood boring bees, and prevent the growth of mold and mildew, would be useless in a marine environment; but, we aren't talking about a marine environment. We are talking about your front door. With this as a background permit me to introduce you to my friend Jim Kull. Jim was the owner of a successful refinishing shop in Southern California prior to his retirement and move to Texas. His retirement gave him a bit more time to experiment so he conducted and posted the results of the following test on the WOOD Magazine Finishing & Refinishing Forum where he served as the host. When Jim decided to step down from his host duties he was instrumental in my becoming host of that forum.Here then is Jim Kull's original post edited slightly for clarity: "In a recent post my friend, Steve (Mickley), made reference to my tests of doggie sprinkling on exterior finishes. I figure after almost a year of testing it is time to post some interesting discoveries. As a preface, allow me to set the stage. Almost daily there is a posting about clear, exterior finishes for doors, chairs, signs and such. Responses run the gamut from diehard marine finishes to apply a coat of primer and then paint. Each of these has a bit of a problem. Marine finishes are not always the easiest to find, and it grieves me to think of a lovely oak, teak, mahogany, fir, redwood or similar nice wood door painted in mauve goop. Bob (from Florida) inspired me with his continuing and accurate statements about the failings of a clear coat and the advantages of a good quality exterior paint. I decided after lots of reflection that he really was right but there was always the picture of mauve in my mind. So, how could one take advantage of his advice and yet capitalize on the beauty of a nice wood? I began to reflect on the characteristics of paint. Now comes the boredom... There were several things I knew about paint: Exterior paints contain a mildewcide and a fungicide that a (marine) varnish does not. The best quality paints will contain a UV (inhibitor) and trans-oxide pigments in very high percentages. Almost all paint is custom mixed by the store. The retailer maintains a large supply of base products that are used to achieve the desired color. There are generally four base products and the specific one for your paint is determined by your color choice. These base products are either named or numbered. They are named pastel, deep, tint and neutral. If numbered it is cleverly 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the exception of Olympic who numbers 1, 2, 3 and 5. Olympic is unaware that "4" comes before "5". Pastel and/or 1 is virtually a pure white and used for the lightest of colors. The others are slightly color altered from white and more translucent than pastel. These are used for succeeding deeper colors. All of this comes to neutral, 4 and/or 5. These are clear and used for (mixing) the darkest colors. In the can they are somewhat opaque but dry more or less clear. Now comes the testing. I bought 4 oak exterior doors. Each door was given one coat of the same MinWax Stain. On 3 of the doors, I applied 2 coats of "base" to the 6 sides of each door (3 coats on the top and bottom edges). Each of these three doors had a different type of exterior neutral, 4 or 5 base. The fourth door was finished with a consumer "spar" varnish from my local friendly paint/hardware store. The bases for the 3 painted doors were an exterior semi-gloss acrylic, an exterior semi-gloss oil-based polyurethane floor paint, and a semi-gloss oil-based trim and siding paint. The doors were set up, slightly inclined, in mostly direct sunlight under a pecan tree in the backyard. (My wife just loved that one.) Daily, the sprinklers managed to hit the doors. The birds in the pecan tree used the doors for target practice. And, yes, the dogs did anoint the doors on a regular basis. My blonde Cocker, Zazu, was particularly enamored with the doors. Over the course of the test the doors experienced lots of Texas sunlight, rain and snow. The temperature went from below freezing to over 100. The advantage to the inclined position of the doors was the snow, ice, water from the sprinklers and the rain tended to collect in the raised panel areas. I feel these doors were subjected to far more severe environmental conditions than would be expected from normal use. The results were interesting. The "spar" varnish (initially) looked fabulous; but, after about 2 weeks it began to develop small cracks. In rapid order the door began to turn black, started to mold and the smell was enough to knock a buzzard off of a manure wagon. The water-based acrylic is milky in the can like a water-based poly. It dried to a more or less water clear surface but was a bit cloudy. It tended to wash out the stain a bit. Over time it became cloudier and ultimately become almost white. But, it remained solid and protected the wood. The oil-based bases are also a bit opaque in the can but dried to a clear finish that is almost identical to a spar varnish - they added an amber tone to the doors. Both the oil-based poly floor paint and the oil-based trim and siding paint remained "clear" over the entire test period. The testing came to an end with a bit of encouragement. My wife said something clever like,"Get those damned doors out of the backyard!" She does not understand science. The floor poly had some minor checking and a thinned coat of the same base over the surface made that disappear. The door with the oil-based trim and siding paint was perfect, other than it had lost a bit of the gloss. So, I am with Bob - paint the door. My preference is the oil-based products. If you are predisposed to a water-based use an acrylic rather than latex. One thing you will find when you go out shopping for your product is a lack of knowledge on the part of the salesperson. Not many of these folk are aware that their neutral or 4 base will dry clear. If you want to have some fun, spring it on them. They will suggest you are full of Donkey Dust. Ask them to shake a can and put some on a stir stick. Dry it and voila, it is clear." Jim Kull One final admonition; if you decide to try the paint solution you must understand that you are applying it like varnish, not like paint. Use a good natural fiber brush, keep your coats thin, (emphasis added; keep the coats thin! We recommend thinning with paint thinner to improve flow-out and leveling.) and brush the paint-base out into a thin, uniform film. If you apply the paint-base too heavily you will get a cloudy finish. Addendum to Earlier Article Several important things have changed since this article was originally written. Perhaps the most important development has been the advent of low VOC products. Many of the oil-based exterior paints still on the market have been reformulated to meet the more stringent VOC requirements. While these products will still work it is important to understand that thinning these products introduces new requirements. The low VOC paint bases can not be thinned with mineral spirits/paint thinner. You must thin with naphtha. If you do not; if you attempt to thin with traditional mineral spirits/paint thinner the finish will remain tacky literally for days and will never cure properly. The second and somewhat more frustration development is that oil-based products are becoming more and more difficult to find. They are available, primarily in paint stores that cater to the trade; but, they will require more searching, possible even beyond city, county or even state borders. The oil-based paint bases remain superior. Even though some water-borne finishes will work they simply will not last as long. Copyright 2003-2010 Steve Mickley, Copyright 2007-2010 Hardwood Lumber & More…Ltd. All rights reserved. No unauthorized reproduction of any images or content without permission. All logos are Copyrights of their respective companies. Author steve@AskHLM.com Copyright 2014 by Ask HLM
  16. Here we are on the first Friday of a brand new year. I trust everyone survived all of the New Year’s festivities. I wonder how long it will take us to write 2019 instead of 2018....... This year rings in with a full range of shop activities for yours truly. Tomorrow, I have an appointment to measure a semi circular mantle for a home renovation here in town. It should be challenging but fun. I have a California king bed to build and a pair of cherry bookcases for a local dentist’s office. So, Happy New Year! What’s on you Patriot Woodworker Weekend Agenda?
  17. John Moody is on the road today so I’m filling in. Last weekend, we did a large holiday show on Saturday. It was a 7 hour show with 168 vendors and over 2700 people came through the doors. We did very well at the show AND I was able to get a piece delivered this week that I had been building. Right now I'm building 6” cheese boards since I sold 32 of them last Saturday. Tomorrow we have a charity auction to attend and rest on Sunday. So, what’s on your weekend Agenda?
  18. Can you believe that we’re into November already? The good news is that in 5 days we can retake our televisions from the politicians. As I’ve mentioned before, I’m on the local election board so this is a very busy season for me. This afternoon is poll worker training and Monday is traveling board to vote the shut ins and Tuesday is the general election. I’ve been building a unit for a customer and today was stain day. Hopefully, I can shoot the first coat of Endurovar Sunday afternoon. It is scheduled to be picked up on the 14th. I think I may make it. The pix are with stain only. so tell me, what’s on Your Weekend Agenda?
  19. Mr. Moody is busier than a one armed paper hanger and has asked to do his Friday post. It is crunch time in Indiana. I’m on the local election board and we have been prepping for the November elections. Plus, I’m building a shelved cabinet that has to be out the door by December 1st and I have a show to do on November 10. Busy, busy, busy. Today I’m rebuilding a door for the cabinet because I just didn’t like the way the other one looked. The customer wants inset doors to match an existing piece of furniture and that piece isn’t exactly high quality. It’s been a chore. So gang, what’s on Your Weekend Agenda?
  20. I know of three ways to match a color. Probably more, but we're on the three things track: 1. Mix together multiple stains (in the can). To do this, you need a few stains, a good color eye, samples, and careful measuring and recording. Here is a good article on this. If you have some UTCs or dyes, you could add these to off-the-shelf stains (assuming they are solvent compatible). This would be a good choice for a large project, for example a room's walls, a dining set, bedroom set where you are trying to match some existing stuff. If you are doing a one-off, for example the top-only of a nightstand, this seems like a lot of work, expense and waste. After a bunch of trials, you might end up with a bunch of stain you won't ever use. 2. Have someone else do it. If you go to a good paint store with a good color matcher, they might make a custom stain for you that will be a reasonable match. They, with an experienced color eye, are essentially doing #1. 3. Layers. I have a set of about eight stains and another set of colors that I can add. I call this using the stain to get to the right church and using a toner or glaze to get to the right pew. Try to get the stain a bit lighter and the right base color. I generally go with glazes because I can manipulate them while applying -- a little more, a little less, wipe off and try another, or add a second one in process. I have a number of glazes that I've smeared on some acrylic sheet that I can hold over the stained wood and get an idea what adding the glaze will do. You can spray on a toner to adjust colors. Another way is to add a base coat of dye, then add a wiping stain. Giant sample board -- dyes on columns, wiping stains on rows. It ain't over until it's over. You can adjust color mid-flight. You can always add dark, but it's really hard to add light. When adjusting color, take tiny steps. Glaze testing and a bit of toner on the bottom half. Glaze board Another way of layering is to use layered and manipulated water-soluble dyes. Concepts: Color matching can be a very difficult process, particularly for us males that might be a bit color-blind. The surrounding colors and ambient light can shift colors. The base wood, its color and texture, and overlying finish affect the color. Same stain (two different vendors with a stain named "Golden Oak") on different wood species. Also notice the splotching on the second from the top (Minwax on poplar). Jeff Jewitt describes it, "When it comes to color matching, there is simply no substitute for practice. And the practice will go more smoothly if you make some stain boards and understand some basic color theory* to point you in the right direction." (Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing, p.163) * In upcoming TGIFs Stain board (on maple) bottom - no finish, middle - one coat of finish, top - two coats of finish. AKA "Step board" Stain colors written on back or edges. In my training the instructors said, "Two often, three sometimes,four never." The principle was if you have to add 4 things together, you are probably not going to get the right color, but you often needed two or three. (c) 2018 Keith Mealy
  21. Last week we learned that red, yellow and blue are the primary colors that can make all other colors. Now we apply that knowledge. When you mix two primary colors, you get secondary colors. green = blue + yellow purple = blue + red orange = yellow + red Now comes the important part. If you have a finish that has too much of one color, you add the color opposite to neutralize it, and a (mnemonic) to remember Color opposites Red <> Green (Christmas) Yellow <> Purple (Easter) Blue <> Orange (sorry, you're on your own here, unless like me you are a University of Illinois Alumnus) If you forget, just remember that the opposite of a primary color is a secondary by mixing the other two colors, and vice-versa. So, for example, if your color is too red, you can add some green to neutralize it. But in wood finishing, we have some "earth tones" that correspond to some of these colors Red - burnt sienna (brighter red) or burnt umber (darker red) Yellow - yellow ochre or raw sienna Purple - cordovan The finisher's color wheel shows what happens when you combine two of its colors. Unfortunately, unless you go to a non-big-box paint store, you are likely not to find these on a label, but rather, cordovan might be called "mahogany" or some other nickname. Although I knew this is theory, it became apparent when in a refinishing class one of the other students was working on a table he'd brought in. It was a really orange color after initial staining. The instructor made up a pure blue glaze and smeared it on. Immediately the ugly orange turned to a nice brown.
  22. There are three major types of products that color wood. 1. Dye 2. Pigment 3. Chemical Dye Dyes are chemicals that dissolve into its solvent,that could be water, alcohol, petroleum distillates, or oil. You can find dyes at concentrates as liquids (such as TransTint), powders that you dissolve (Lockwood), or even as part of a canned stain (Minwax Golden Oak). Dyes are dissolved and do not settle out. If you are looking at a can of stain and stir with a paint stick, you will not find any solids at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount by which it is diluted. You can start with a full dose, then dilute part of it to various degrees (half, quarter, etc.) to get the amount of color you want. Keep careful records so you can replicate it if you are making your own dye solutions. Dyes give a very clear coloring, but are more prone to fading over time. Lightfast is more of a relative term. If you get the color too dark, you can wipe with the appropriate solvent and pull out some of the color or you can even add another color to adjust darkness, neutralize (e.g., too red, too yellow, etc.) Pigment Pigments are powders that are suspended in a carrier. Pigments lodge in the grain and pores of the wood (and the sanding marks if you are not careful). And as such, pigments tend to blotch on certain woods due to their varying porousness. Pigments will settle out to the bottom and if you stir a pigmented stain with a paint stick, you will find a muddy residue at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount you wipe off. You can also buy pigments in powder form to make your own products, you can even smudge some powder onto problem spots and lock in place with a spray. Or add pigments on a finishing wiping cloth and pad in some color. These methods are used in touchup. Pigments are usually more lightfast than dyes. Chemicals Chemicals change the color of the wood by chemical reaction. Generally these are acids or alkalis such as ammonia (fumes), lye, potassium permanganate, bichromate of potash, potassium dichromate, iron dissolved in vinegar (iron acetate). The resulting color is not reflected in the color of the solution and the same solution may work differently (or not at all) on different woods due to their different composition. Heartwood and sapwood may also color differently even on the same board. You "control" the color saturation by trials, length of treatment, and in some cases the concentration of the chemical. There are several disadvantages to chemical stains It's a "ready, fire, aim" approach. Run trials. but in many cases, it's going to do what it's going to do and you are not going to stop it. Wood from one tree may not color the same as wood from another tree. Many of these chemicals are toxic or caustic to your skin, eyes, and lungs. Do research and use carefully and with PPE and ventilation. They may be hard to find a place to purchase. A good application of some of these is in inlay work where a chemical may color some of the species, but not others. Again, research, choose woods carefully, and run a trial before slapping on and ruining weeks of work. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=12&amp;ved=2ahUKEwitk4DxgczcAhWk6YMKHVmTBbsQFjALegQIABAC&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Femgw.org%2FResources%2FDocuments%2FPapers%20and%20Articles%2FChemicalStains.pdf&amp;usg=AOvVaw0l3kGfTTJa7DxfVTrNs7oH An oddball colorant that does not really fit neatly into any of the above is Gilsonite, AKA asphaltic tar. You can use roofing tar dissolved in paint thinner/mineral spirits to get a mid- to dark-brown color. This is the colorant used in some "walnut" Danish Oil products. It's a nice color that is hard to get with the above. (c) 2018 Keith Mealy
  23. Waterborne finishes have come a long way since first introduced 25 or so years ago. They were pretty awful then, but very good now. Pros: + fast drying - usually, you can sand and re-coat in about an hour + low odor - other fast-drying finishes like lacquer and shellac can have some strong solvent odor while drying. So it works well if you are finishing in a house or baswement + no added color - perfect when you want a non-ambering finish such as one over a white stain (pickled finish) or other non-wood tone color Cons: - less chemical resistance - not quite as resistant to common solvents as some of the other finishes - does not cure well in cold, needs at least 65 degrees or so for several days - lacks amber color that we're used to so some woods can appear washed out, or even bluish, unless a stain or under-coat of shellac applied.
  24. There is not a lot of things to say about wax finishes, so only three things, not three pros and three cons. I am not talking about waxed finishes, but simply using a wax as the one and only finish. Some waxes are light amber, but you can get waxes in a variety of darker colors where the color has been added. Wax is an evaporative finish, meaning with the thinner or solvent evaporates, you are left with the finish. No more chemistry happens. Usually the solvent is mineral spirits, but sometimes, as in the original Briwax, it's something else, in that case tolulol (aka toluene). (So the original Briwax can be a bit too aggressive for new finishes as it's meant more of a restorative wax over a finish, that is, a waxed finish). Waxes are one or more of three types: - Animal (e.g., beeswax) - Vegetable (e.g., carnauba) - Mineral (e.g., paraffin) Three things: + easy to apply - to quote a movie, wax-on, wax-off. Let most of the solvent dry, then buff out. I like to say you want a finish just a few molecules thick, so take off as much as you possibly can, then buff a little more. Wax build-up can attract dirt and not be very attractive. + easy to repair - Just add some more - wax on; wax off - minimal protection - while wax can beautify a wood, it does not do much to protect it from moisture, soiling, etc. It would be appropriate for things that don't get much contact such as art turning, picture frames, etc.
  25. Indedendence Day 2018 is now in the books and all of the dogs are beginning to calm down. Fortunately, our heat wave has broken here in Indiana also. Grandpa Dave, did I pick a good year to install a new HVAC system, or what! It’s been a slow week in the shop. I built and delivered a double sided map case to a friend and it was a labor of love. We decided to make it a desk mount, though. Nothing planned for the shop for me this weekend. How about y’all. What’s on Your Weekend agenda?
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