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My Clubs and Organizations

  1. Cutting, shaping, joinery, glue up and assy I can get that. If I mess up I just make another piece. But when all of that is done after maybe 50 hours of work and it is sitting there awaiting finish - I freeze. One mistake here and the entire project can turn into $250 in hard wood and 50 hours into tragedy. Am I mental? This is of course not at all out of the question. Is this typical or is it just me. Spray on - wipe on - brush on. Poly, oil, shellac, varnish, stain, polyshades. Uneven finish, runs, streaks. At times it feels like I am in a zombie movie and all of these issues are out to get
  2. Often people beginning struggle with finishing. They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not. Sort of like using the same tool for every operation. In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.) https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
  3. I don't start many new posts here, but this one struck me as important enough to do so. I guess Kali is moving to eliminate DNA.
  4. Pauley

    Painting pine

    I’m sure this is an easy problem for the experts to answer. I’m not one to paint wood, but in this case I need to. I’m making a bedside table for my granddaughter. It’s made from (dare I say it....big box store pine). The reason why I used this pine is because she wanted it painted...anyhow. I know I can use something like Binz to keep the knots from bleeding through. I don’t have any, but I do have some shellac. Would that work? Or would you recommend something better.
  5. We are having our annual woodturner's club picnic this Saturday. I didn't go to the last one because I was fairly new to turning, they want each turner that attends the picnic to bring a turning for the spouses' raffle, and I didn't have enough confidence in my skills to bring something. The wives, spouses, or others get a raffle ticket whose sole purpose is to determine the order in which they get to pick out a turning and take it home. No money exchanges hands, all just for fun. These are the items I made for this year's picnic, which, BTW, I got asked to organize. Not having attended l
  6. I have missed a few Throw Back Thursday's simply because I didn't have anything that I had picked up lately with enough information to share with you all. But today I have a little information to share with you about a product you may use and if you don't, you may want to consider it. Shellac. As I am sure most of you know Shellac has been around and used by ancient Chinese and Indian civilizations for a long time. They used the dye extracted from lac fro dyeing silk and leather and as a cosmetic rouge and a coloring for head ornaments. In the 13th century, following the
  7. Characteristics summary. Remember, pick the characteristics you want and live with the rest of what you get. Product Application Curing Odor Protection Repairability Oil Cloth Slow Some Low 1 Moderate Oil-varnish Cloth Slow Some Some 3 Moderate Varnish Cloth, brush Slow Some High 9 Low Wax Cloth Fast Low Low 0 Moderate Shellac Cloth, brush, Fast Some Modera
  8. Back at the end of April of this year, went to an estate Auction. Won a bundle of saws.....one was a bit strange looking... Finally got around to rehabbing it a bit.....Filed the teeth as rip. Got a couple pieces of Cherry to make a blank for a handle.. Metal frame was wire wheeled until it was shiny. Red handle holds the file I used to sharpen the blade. let this mess sit over night Clamps were removed, sander set up. Shaped to fit my hands. . Drilled a couple holes, and installed a pair of saw bolts. Steel frame, merits steel bolts, righ
  9. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/shellac?utm_source=Canadian+Woodworking+Newsletter&utm_campaign=110acee0ab-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018-08&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_490231050d-110acee0ab-78334825
  10. About Shellac: Three Pros: + barrier for wax, silicone, odor, resins, water vapor. Seals those things in well. + fast drying. Usually dries in 30 minutes, less for spraying + easy to repair. Just add some more and it will melt in. Three Cons: - gloss only, but can be rubbed to lower glosses - susceptible to alkali, water. Being acidic, it does not do well with things like ammonia in Windex. - shelf life limited. Starts to degrade in as little as one year.
  11. I like to do shellac from flakes and have a couple bags (blonde and garnet) since 2014 or thereabout. Needed some garnet so set to make a 3# cut for about 3 oz. After 1 day the mix instead of having a clot of shellac in the bottom was like a suspension , not foamy but looking like that. The alcohol was from an old can or bottom of old can. Had this happen once before with the blonde but the next time it worked fine. Anyone know what is going on?
  12. I'm getting close to the finishing stage for a walnut mantle clock I've been working on, and I'm looking for suggestions for an appropriate finish. The clock will be on a shelf in the bathroom, and so will be exposed to the humidity coming from the shower. Would danish oil be a good finish, or should I go with a poly? Also thinking of a seal coat of shellac, followed by several coats of satin poly. The shellac would probably be from a rattle can, and the poly would be wipe-on. The clock shouldn't be subject to too much physical wear and tear, so I am just mainly concerned about the bathro
  13. Finally got back on my lathe. When my daughter saw this fruit bowl I had made for my wife, which I posted on back in October, she wanted something similar. This is what I came up with for her. It started out as four pieces of 8/4 poplar. I edge glued two pieces together, then edge glued the other two pieces together, then face glued those two chunks together to make a big blank. I wanted to try my hand at making a bowl that was pretty much at the maximum diameter allowed for my lathe. With that heavy of a blank, I was a little wary of it flying off the chuck. I screwed on a fa
  14. Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My ver
  15. This came across my feed today. And it's appropriate, I got approached Sunday by a neighbor's son who wanted a gift made for his mom (for Christmas). 1) they are always late for stuff and 2) Mom is a vet and lost her 33 year old horse that she had since teenhood (which was also very stressful for her) and 3) I already had a pretty full week planned. At first he wanted the 5x7 in the center of the horse cutout. Yikes, to scale it up would have made a 22x34" frame with a 5x7 opening. Redesigned. Finished it up right after lunch and second coat of shellac now drying.
  16. When spraying Bullseye shellac with a HVLP, should I thin it? If so, how much? Using DNA.
  17. Ok, so far...have about 4 coats of thinned Amber Shellac on the "Project" Next step is supposed to be a clear, gloss varnish..... 1: Do I also thin the varnish with the DNA? 2: How long do I leave the shellac "dry" before I brush on the varnish? Should I fine sand before the varnish, or not? have rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool.....will that be enough? Will "tack" things off, before the varnish. Rather a bit of a rookie, when using shellac.. No, this is not a "run" ... Actually, it is a bit of Curly Mapl
  18. Today we look at another type of common finish – Shellac The Product Shellac comes from the secretion of the lac bug in SE Asia. These secretions coat branches of trees. The branches are exposed to heat (e.g., a fire) and melts and drips off. This is called seed-lac, the least refined form and may contain contaminates such as dirt, bug parts, bark, etc. Following this, it may be refined and bleached, yielding more and more types of shellac – garnet, orange (AKA amber), lemon, blonde (AKA clear), super blonde. You can buy the product as “buttons” or as flakes, or you ca
  19. Gerald

    bookstandmed.JPG

    From the album: Furniture and tables

    David Marks Design with cross added . Made in Cherry
  20. From the album: Furniture and tables

    Cherry side table design made by modifying a NYW plan for a shave stand and adding a drawer.
  21. This is my latest bank.  A customer wanted a Cardinal Bank for her son and this is what I came up with. The bank is 7 inches long x 9 inches tall x 3 3/4 inches thick.  I glued up 5 layers of clear pine to get the required thickness and then sanded and shaped the bank to its final shape.  I then painted it with water based acrylic paints then sealed with shellac.     DW
  22. I got a little shop time yesterday! So I thought I'd make a little something for our daughter's violin teacher, she has taken it upon herself to give our daughter lessons pro bono, but we could not have that so I told every now and then I'd get something out of the shop for her. We are starting small at first so I can get an idea of her tastes, once I know what she likes in her home (mountain cabin with cedar walls) then we'll get more extravagant. I decided on a simple little shaker style wall shelf with sliding dovetails. Of course every project starts out with a plank of
  23. I have a question about the printed labels from a Brother brand label maker - The labels are peel and stick and would there be a problem with the labels staying stuck on shellac? Thanks in advance,
  24. This is a side table I did based on a shaving stand Norm did on NYW. I used sliding dovetails for the side and bottom and to put the top on . The drawers have my first try at handcut dovetails. The only screws in the piece are in the base to attach it to the drawer box and in the drawer runners. The top had a nice figure in it which I did not see till I applied the shellac. Also my first time to french polish with shellac. The garnet shellac (the only finish) will even out the color of cherry so even the sapwood will not look so bright.
  25. Recently I was given a 12 inch wide 10 foot board that was 1 inch thick.  It was stored out in the weather for several years.  Upon cleaning up the board including all the cupping I found that this was a cedar board and that the grain had been brought out most dramatically. I decided to make a bowl with it.  This bowl is 10 inches in diameter and 3 3/4 inches tall.  This bowl was totally cut using the scroll saw.  The rings were cut at 22.5 degrees.  The bowl was sealed with tung oil then top coated with 4 coats of satin lacquer.  
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