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Found 26 results

  1. Cutting, shaping, joinery, glue up and assy I can get that. If I mess up I just make another piece. But when all of that is done after maybe 50 hours of work and it is sitting there awaiting finish - I freeze. One mistake here and the entire project can turn into $250 in hard wood and 50 hours into tragedy. Am I mental? This is of course not at all out of the question. Is this typical or is it just me. Spray on - wipe on - brush on. Poly, oil, shellac, varnish, stain, polyshades. Uneven finish, runs, streaks. At times it feels like I am in a zombie movie and all of these issues are out to get me. So, I sit and look at the project in all of its unfinished glory and the more I look at it the more it seems it is looking at me and waiting.
  2. Often people beginning struggle with finishing. They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not. Sort of like using the same tool for every operation. In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.) https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
  3. I don't start many new posts here, but this one struck me as important enough to do so. I guess Kali is moving to eliminate DNA.
  4. Pauley

    Painting pine

    I’m sure this is an easy problem for the experts to answer. I’m not one to paint wood, but in this case I need to. I’m making a bedside table for my granddaughter. It’s made from (dare I say it....big box store pine). The reason why I used this pine is because she wanted it painted...anyhow. I know I can use something like Binz to keep the knots from bleeding through. I don’t have any, but I do have some shellac. Would that work? Or would you recommend something better.
  5. We are having our annual woodturner's club picnic this Saturday. I didn't go to the last one because I was fairly new to turning, they want each turner that attends the picnic to bring a turning for the spouses' raffle, and I didn't have enough confidence in my skills to bring something. The wives, spouses, or others get a raffle ticket whose sole purpose is to determine the order in which they get to pick out a turning and take it home. No money exchanges hands, all just for fun. These are the items I made for this year's picnic, which, BTW, I got asked to organize. Not having attended last year's picnic, and being a new member of the club, I am a little nervous about organizing this year's picnic, but we will see how things turn out. Anyway, these are my items, all turned from poplar procured by our club president, and finished with three coats of 2 pound cut garnet shellac and 2 coats of spray lacquer. A mortar and pestle, and two styles of rolling pins. Thanks for looking.
  6. I have missed a few Throw Back Thursday's simply because I didn't have anything that I had picked up lately with enough information to share with you all. But today I have a little information to share with you about a product you may use and if you don't, you may want to consider it. Shellac. As I am sure most of you know Shellac has been around and used by ancient Chinese and Indian civilizations for a long time. They used the dye extracted from lac fro dyeing silk and leather and as a cosmetic rouge and a coloring for head ornaments. In the 13th century, following the historical journey of Marco Polo ot the Orient, Shellac and its by products began making its way into European commerce and industry. Dating back as far as 1534 there are accounts that describe the cultivation, harvesting, processing and use of lac in extraordinary detail. Shellac resin, shellac dye and shellac wax we used with increasing frequency by the mid 17th century by painters to provide a protective finish. It wasn't until the mid 19th century that shellac was commonly used as a clear finish. The rich reddish purple colorant was highly prized and much sought after by the textile trade in both Europe and America since is was an excellent substitute for Cochineal, a dye imported from Spanish Colonies in Mexico. Henry Perkins, an English Chemist, in 1856 succeeded in synthesizing a mauve-colored dye from an aniline derivative of coal tar. This discovery changed the future of the Shellac industry forever. Production plants began springing up throughout Europe and Germany. They soon developed a reputation for the finest shellac manufactured in the world. Efforts were also underway to produce a colorless shellac William Zinsser, a bleaching foreman in Germany, confident of his technological skills and convinced that a good market for bleached shellac either existed or could be created in the United States, moved his family to New York in 1849. He settled in Manhattan on West 59th Street and setup a workshop in a building next to his home and began to bleach small quantities of shellac and sold it to fellow immigrants. From this humble beginning arose the first Shellac Bleachery in the United States. The production grew from a few pounds per day to thousands of gallons by the turn of the century. At this point Zinsser shellac was sold to vendors who packaged the product under their own label and name. In 1908 one of Zinssers' sons took over the company and began packaging their shellac under the Bulls Eye label. By 1920 there were several other manufactures of shellac in the U.S. The next eighty years witnessed a veritable explosion in the commercial applications of shellac. It was used extensively as a binder in the manufacturing of gramophone records, shoe polish, felt sizing for men's hats, hair spray, floor wax, pharmaceutical, candy (shiny coating on M&M's), printing inks, adhesives, grinding wheels, paper and foil coatings and electrical insulators. From the mid 1960's to the early 1990's shellac seemed forgotten by everyone except those who manufactured it and the contractors, hobbyists, and knowledgeable devotees who used it. All of the makers of shellac were out of business or existed as subsidiaries of the one remaining manufacture: William Zinsser & Co. While out doing a little Patriot Picking, I found this gallon can of Bulls Eye "Z" Shellac that is full and unopened. This is a vintage Zinsser can as it was before UPC codes were put on products. The "Z Bulls Eye Brand" Trademark was first used in 1/1/1913. Zinseer filed and registered the trademark 3/23/1965 and it expired 6/23/1985. The first UPC marked item ever scanned at a retail checkout was at Marsh supermarket in Troy, Ohio at 8:01 a.m. on June 26, 1974 and was a 10-pack (50 sticks) of Wrigley's Juicy Fruit chewing gum. The shopper was Clyde Dawson and the cashier Sharon Buckanan made the first UPC Scan. Patriot Picking on Throw Back Thursday!
  7. Characteristics summary. Remember, pick the characteristics you want and live with the rest of what you get. Product Application Curing Odor Protection Repairability Oil Cloth Slow Some Low 1 Moderate Oil-varnish Cloth Slow Some Some 3 Moderate Varnish Cloth, brush Slow Some High 9 Low Wax Cloth Fast Low Low 0 Moderate Shellac Cloth, brush, Fast Some Moderate 6 High or Spray Lacquer Brush, spray Fast High Moderately high 8 High Waterborne Brush, spray Fast Low Moderately high 8 Moderate -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stain Cloth, brush, Fast to Moderate* n/a n/a or spray* slow* Glaze Cloth, brush Slow Low 0 n/a Toner Spray Fast* Some to high* 5-8 * moderate * depending upon medium
  8. Back at the end of April of this year, went to an estate Auction. Won a bundle of saws.....one was a bit strange looking... Finally got around to rehabbing it a bit.....Filed the teeth as rip. Got a couple pieces of Cherry to make a blank for a handle.. Metal frame was wire wheeled until it was shiny. Red handle holds the file I used to sharpen the blade. let this mess sit over night Clamps were removed, sander set up. Shaped to fit my hands. . Drilled a couple holes, and installed a pair of saw bolts. Steel frame, merits steel bolts, right Operator needs trained on a proper grip.... It starts easy, cuts fast, and IF I hold it just right, straight cuts occur, like magic. Shellac and the brush was still upstairs (yes, I am now cleared for stairs) so I took this up and added a Amber Shellac finish. IF the sun should happen to reappear, I can let the Cherry soak up some rays, and get a "tan". Might be a decent enough, little Tool Box Saw....it is not a "perfection" saw.... That's ok, I already have one....by Atkins.
  9. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/shellac?utm_source=Canadian+Woodworking+Newsletter&utm_campaign=110acee0ab-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018-08&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_490231050d-110acee0ab-78334825
  10. About Shellac: Three Pros: + barrier for wax, silicone, odor, resins, water vapor. Seals those things in well. + fast drying. Usually dries in 30 minutes, less for spraying + easy to repair. Just add some more and it will melt in. Three Cons: - gloss only, but can be rubbed to lower glosses - susceptible to alkali, water. Being acidic, it does not do well with things like ammonia in Windex. - shelf life limited. Starts to degrade in as little as one year.
  11. I like to do shellac from flakes and have a couple bags (blonde and garnet) since 2014 or thereabout. Needed some garnet so set to make a 3# cut for about 3 oz. After 1 day the mix instead of having a clot of shellac in the bottom was like a suspension , not foamy but looking like that. The alcohol was from an old can or bottom of old can. Had this happen once before with the blonde but the next time it worked fine. Anyone know what is going on?
  12. I'm getting close to the finishing stage for a walnut mantle clock I've been working on, and I'm looking for suggestions for an appropriate finish. The clock will be on a shelf in the bathroom, and so will be exposed to the humidity coming from the shower. Would danish oil be a good finish, or should I go with a poly? Also thinking of a seal coat of shellac, followed by several coats of satin poly. The shellac would probably be from a rattle can, and the poly would be wipe-on. The clock shouldn't be subject to too much physical wear and tear, so I am just mainly concerned about the bathroom environment.
  13. Finally got back on my lathe. When my daughter saw this fruit bowl I had made for my wife, which I posted on back in October, she wanted something similar. This is what I came up with for her. It started out as four pieces of 8/4 poplar. I edge glued two pieces together, then edge glued the other two pieces together, then face glued those two chunks together to make a big blank. I wanted to try my hand at making a bowl that was pretty much at the maximum diameter allowed for my lathe. With that heavy of a blank, I was a little wary of it flying off the chuck. I screwed on a face plate and turned the bottom and the chuck mortise, then mounted it on the chuck, and turned the inside very gently until I had removed some of the weight. Finishing was a coat of Bullseye Sealcoat sanding sealer, followed by a coat of amber shellac, and then three coats of spray lacquer. I haven't given it to her yet; I hope she likes it. I turned it with a combination of Easy Wood Tools, and a traditional 3/8" bowl gouge I purchased from a gentleman on this site. This is my fourth bowl. Thanks for looking.
  14. Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
  15. This came across my feed today. And it's appropriate, I got approached Sunday by a neighbor's son who wanted a gift made for his mom (for Christmas). 1) they are always late for stuff and 2) Mom is a vet and lost her 33 year old horse that she had since teenhood (which was also very stressful for her) and 3) I already had a pretty full week planned. At first he wanted the 5x7 in the center of the horse cutout. Yikes, to scale it up would have made a 22x34" frame with a 5x7 opening. Redesigned. Finished it up right after lunch and second coat of shellac now drying. For last minute finishing, use one of these finishes: Lacquer, Shellac, and Waterborne. https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/christmas?did=203714-20171221&utm_campaign=wood_weeklyupdate_122117&utm_medium=email&utm_source=wdm-newsletter
  16. When spraying Bullseye shellac with a HVLP, should I thin it? If so, how much? Using DNA.
  17. Ok, so far...have about 4 coats of thinned Amber Shellac on the "Project" Next step is supposed to be a clear, gloss varnish..... 1: Do I also thin the varnish with the DNA? 2: How long do I leave the shellac "dry" before I brush on the varnish? Should I fine sand before the varnish, or not? have rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool.....will that be enough? Will "tack" things off, before the varnish. Rather a bit of a rookie, when using shellac.. No, this is not a "run" ... Actually, it is a bit of Curly Maple grain showing off. Varnish is Poly Gloss. I am used to using the stuff, just not over shellac.... Wet clothes may get tossed onto the top...doubt IF shellac would like that...
  18. Today we look at another type of common finish – Shellac The Product Shellac comes from the secretion of the lac bug in SE Asia. These secretions coat branches of trees. The branches are exposed to heat (e.g., a fire) and melts and drips off. This is called seed-lac, the least refined form and may contain contaminates such as dirt, bug parts, bark, etc. Following this, it may be refined and bleached, yielding more and more types of shellac – garnet, orange (AKA amber), lemon, blonde (AKA clear), super blonde. You can buy the product as “buttons” or as flakes, or you can buy it pre-mixed in its solvent. Native shellac has some amount of wax in it. If you are using shellac as a finish alone, it’s not a problem, but if you are going to top coat with another finish, you may want a dewaxed shellac to improve adhesion of the top coat. You can see the wax settle out to the bottom of a container of shellac as cloudy. Waxed shellac has less water--resistance than dewaxed. The solvent for shellac is alcohol. Normally we use denatured alcohol – ethanol (grain alcohol) with a bit of methanol (wood alcohol) added to render it unfit for human consumption Shellac, like lacquer, cures by evaporation of the thinner and will re-dissolve in it. As a benefit, when you apply multiple applications of a shellac, it melts into the lower layers and becomes in essence, one layer. Compare this with a varnish where the layers remain separate. Shellac was a common finish used in production furniture and cabinetry for 100 years until the introduction of lacquer following WWI. By WWII, lacquer had mostly replaced shellac as production finish. The introduction of synthetic varnishes following WWII for the hobbyist further reduced the demand. Zinsser if the major importer of shellac products from Asia via Germany where most of the refinement is done. There are a few “boutique” suppliers of shellac products. Characteristics Shellac is a fast drying and hard finish. It is slightly acidic. Shellac is usually listed by “cut.” For example, a 2 pound cut is two pounds of flakes in 1 gallon of alcohol. You don’t need to mix a whole gallon though, just as much as you need. For example, if you need a bit of 2 lb cut, mix ½ lb in one quart, or ¼ lb in one pint, etc. Add the flakes to the alcohol, mix or shake periodically and allow to sit for a few hours to overnight. Prior to use, filter with a finish filter to remove any impurities and undissolved resin. Do not use metal cans for this as the shellac can react with the metal. I like to use jars that pickles or tomato sauce has some in because the lids have an acid-resistant liner. You can dewax your waxed shellac by letting the wax settle out, then decanting off the top. However, I prefer not to throw away half the product when I can just buy dewaxed flakes. SealCoat and Zinsser Aerosol Shellac come dewaxed; Bulls Eye (also from Zinsser) Amber and Clear are waxed shellacs. Bulls Eye are 3 lb cuts and shelf life about a year. SealCoat is a 2 lb cut and longer shelf life. Canned and flake shellac: (photo credit Popular Woodworking / Bob Flexner) The price of shellac has increased in the last few years because of “crop failure.” It is slowly inching back down after some better years. One drawback of shellac is shelf life. Once dissolved, it slowly degrades by a process called esterification. The result is the finish will never fully harden. Test home-mixed shellacs after six months and watch carefully after 12 months. Test by putting a puddle on some wood and check in few hours. If it’s not hardened by then, it probably won’t ever fully harden, throw it out. So if you are mixing your own, don’t do more than you will need in the short-term and label the mix date. Pre-mixed shellac, Zinsser Seal Coat (used to, no longer does) guarantee 3 year shelf life from point of manufacture, and I’ve used some 4 years old with good results. Unfortunately, they, from time to time will change their dating code and what you pick up at Home Depot may already be past its “use by” date. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/user-unfriendly-zinsser-bulls-eye-shellac. If I’m refinishing a piece and even suspect silicone oil contamination from Pledge furniture polish, I’ll apply a coat of shellac before moving on to my selected finish. Also if I’m working on a resinous wood like teak or aromatic cedar (that can affect and soften finishes), I’ll add shellac as a barrier. If the wood smells, either on its own or by external factors such as urine, Shellac will seal it in. Shellac will seal in the resins of pine knots that will otherwise bleed through the finish (especially obvious with paint). I do a lot of water-borne finishes. These can be sort of cool, almost blue, unlike the amber that we’re used to. They may also not bring out some of the grain depth and shimmer (chatoyance) that we love to see. A coat of two of shellac under the w/b finish will add good looks to your finish, especially if you are not using a stain. Pros Very fast drying, 30 minutes or less Very fast application when spraying Color from clear to darker, depending on degree of refinement Hardness facilitates rubbing out to a high gloss sheen (or any other sheen) Easy to repair Easy to strip Compatible with almost any top coat (when shellac is de-waxed) Excellent “barrier coat” sealer for knot resins, odors, wood extractives, silicone contamination, wax, Seals in smoke, pet urine, or musty odors inside vintage case goods. Adds beautiful chatoyance to woods, adding depth and “dancing figure.” Can be used (highly thinned) as a wash coat to control stains Can be used as a sanding sealer coat No lingering smell so perfect for insides of boxes and cabinets Does not darken or orange with age Available in different colors from garnet to super-blonde Cons Generally only available in gloss, though you can rub out to a lower sheen. Not as much resistance to water, alkalis, or alcohol Applied too thickly, it can become brittle. Limited shelf life once dissolved. Application Like most finishes, there are three ways to apply shellac. I find the first coat of shellac will raise the grain a little bit. So I sand after it’s dried and has stiffened the fibers up (“burying the grain.”) Spray Spray on coats overlapping half as you go. It is not necessary for each coat to fully dry before adding another coat. Air movement will help the evaporation of the solvents. Shellac is available in aerosol cans for small jobs. Brush You can brush on shellac easily with a natural bristle brush. Just don’t put it on too heavy on each coat or it can curtain or run. Get it on and don’t keep going back over it because It dries so fast. You don’t even need to clean the brush, just let it dry and put in a can of denatured alcohol. If you do want to clean the brush, rinse in denatured alcohol. You can also mix up some TSP in water and wash the brush. The alkali in TSP will break down the shellac (and turn it purple.) Most foam brushes will not work for shellac. Cloth You can pad on shellac. I’ve used this to restore an old finish after cleaning, abrading, or removing blush. Lightly dampened rag wiped quickly. There’s also an advanced method called “French Polishing” that combines shellac, a bit of abrasive such as pumice, and a bit of oil for lubrication. Continuous wiping with a rag where the finish dries in what is described as “comet tails.” Essentially thousands of applications of the finish built up to a high-gloss, high-end finish. Not one I’ve even tried, no less mastered. Fixing Goofs Drips and runs are easy to repair. Let them harden, sand or scrape level and apply another application which will dissolve and blend into one coat. Another common problem is blushing. This occurs in hot & humid conditions where the water vapor gets trapped in the finish while the solvents evaporate. Finishes that have been on for many years tend to blush (water mark) easier. Wipe with a rag dampened in alcohol and the blush will normally disappear before your eyes. If you wish, pad on a top coat to restore the luster. Summary: Try it, you’ll like it. Further reading: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/the_case_for_shellac http://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing/502292-shellac-as-a-sealer-its-all-just-hype https://paulsellers.com/2011/04/how-to-apply-shellac-as-practical-wood-finish/ http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/shellac2.html
  19. Gerald


    From the album: Furniture and tables

    David Marks Design with cross added . Made in Cherry
  20. Gerald


    From the album: Furniture and tables

    Cherry side table design made by modifying a NYW plan for a shave stand and adding a drawer.
  21. This is my latest bank.  A customer wanted a Cardinal Bank for her son and this is what I came up with. The bank is 7 inches long x 9 inches tall x 3 3/4 inches thick.  I glued up 5 layers of clear pine to get the required thickness and then sanded and shaped the bank to its final shape.  I then painted it with water based acrylic paints then sealed with shellac.     DW
  22. I got a little shop time yesterday! So I thought I'd make a little something for our daughter's violin teacher, she has taken it upon herself to give our daughter lessons pro bono, but we could not have that so I told every now and then I'd get something out of the shop for her. We are starting small at first so I can get an idea of her tastes, once I know what she likes in her home (mountain cabin with cedar walls) then we'll get more extravagant. I decided on a simple little shaker style wall shelf with sliding dovetails. Of course every project starts out with a plank of wood! Then with a couple simple layout tools we can commence to just having some fun and layout some lines. It takes me a few tries before I get something that looks pleasing. It is purely a personal thing, and even after I do the layout and it all looks good on wood, I really don't know what I will think about it until I get it cut out and set it up to see how the proportions look. The idea here is to just have fun with it. After about a dozen tries I finally came out with some lines I enjoy. This photo is the bottom of the wall shelf. You can click on this one to view it larger to see the line. This next photo is the top of the shelf, I loved how this one turned out, I tried some tighter radius's and a thinner top portion, but then I went bold and just used my string bow for the radius. Click on photo for larger image. I cut the first half out on the band saw, I only like cutting up to the line about a 1/6th proud, I am horrible at following a line on the line, if I try to cut to the line I typically cut over it and blow the layout, I am one of those unfortunates that do not have a good eye and steady feed to be able to cut right to the line so I leave the line in place, and spindle sand or plane to the line. Below you'll see the first half is finished, and it is laid up over the second half to mark out. I am pleased with the appearance of the layout after it has been cut out. I have a Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jig that is really handy for these smaller jobs. I like to use the sliding dovetail feature instead of dadoing the shelves in. I like the way the sliding dovetail lends that extra level of assurance that the shelves will not separate from the sides of case work like this. Think about it, an interlocking shelf that with all your might you could not pull apart even before it is glued up, then you add glue, and it would take a herculean effort to pull the sides away from the shelf, I like to make projects to last lifetimes, to hand down to generations. I know this is just a simple shelf, but 150 years from now, it will still be in one piece bar any disaster such as fire or landfill. You could drop this from 10 feet up and it will not separate. I like to think that anything I do will age and gain a rich patina, and the marks of wear from a century of knick knacks along with salt and pepper shakers that will have inhabited the shelf. I like to do my runs in sets, to assure that the two Dovetail slots will line up perfectly. So I clamp my halves together and then I insert the halves in the jig. These halves will stay clamped together for the duration of the slotting operations. You want to be sure you position the clamp in a manner that you do not have to pull it off to make room for the next operation. If you do have to pull it off, you'll need to use a second clamp to secure the boards before you pull off the first clamp. Click on image to enlarge. Just another shot of the two boards in position, the dovetail slot is the longer narrow area in the middle of the template. Now the Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jighas a handy little feature just like the bigger jigs do, a router bit depth stop. The depth stop is marked out accordingly, 1/4" for routing dovetail slots in 1/2" lumber, 3/8" for routing slots in 3/4" lumber, and 1/2" for routing slots in 1" lumber. I forgot to say, the PC 4210 comes with bushings and a dovetail bit that are suited for this jig. In this case I set my router bit depth to 3/8", I planed my lumber for the sides to 5/8" to give the shelf some depth and difference in the parts, and I wanted the slot to be routed as deep as possible without compromising the integrity of the sides. Click image to enlarge. With the halves in place and the boards set to the line in the jig ,and the bit depth set, the operation was completed, I am sorry I did not get any pictures of the actual operation, but it would have been difficult to hold the camera in one hand and the router in the other! TIP:When you route the slot, come in from both sides as to prevent tear out. Start from one side, cut the slot length about 90 percent, back your router back down the slot to exit, then come in from the opposite side, this will prevent unsightly blow out of the edges. One slot cut one to go. As you can see the two halves are still clamped up! You want to keep them clamped up until your finished with the slot cutting operations. Now the two halves are rotated 180 degrees (on this piece because of the location of the slots, yours will differ) with some operations you can keep feeding the work in one direction until you run out of room or support, but with this small shelf, it had to be rotated. The opposite end is now in the jig, and just for assurance, even though I drew my lines out accurately, I check the board for squareness in relation to the jig. And the second slot is cut just as the first one was. TIP: Do any sanding of the surface of the slotted boards before you slot them! If you sand them after you slot them, you'll ruin the reference to the dovetailed boards, and you'll create an unsightly gap between the ends of the shelves and the surface of the slotted board. Now with my slots cut and clamp removed I set the two halves out of the way and I get set for the routing operation of the shelf ends for the dovetail style profile. I start off with a piece of scrap the exact same thickness as the shelves. TIP: If your going to thickness plane the shelves, make sure you plane a piece of scrap at the same time to use for a test run in this procedure. In my case, I did not plane the shelves, so I was able to use a cutoff from the band saw operation. This portion of the entire operation is the only time you'll need to make some minor adjustments. The routing of the slots is straight forward, it is what it is, set the depth of the bit, line em up and cut. Routing the ends of the shelves is where all adjustments are made. Set the scrap piece in the jig up to the template, keeping your router bit at the same depth throughout the entire procedure, make your first test cut. Remove your test piece and see how it fits! As you can see my first test run turned out a sloppy fitting joint. Click image to enlarge. To adjust this slop out, you'll need to adjust the black knob, then the brass knob, it only takes a slight twist clockwise of both knobs on each side of the jig to take up the slop, what this does is cut less of the material away by putting more of the lumber under the aluminum jig. You'll have to flip your test piece over or cut off the one end to make a new cut. Since I have slop, there is no re-using the same cut end. If it were too tight, I could turn the knobs counter clockwise, bring the board out from under the template thus cutting more away. Sorry for the poor picture quality on this one, but you can see the adjusting knobs. Ahhhh, perfect fit now!!! You don't want the fit to be snug, you want to be able to slide the piece with some resistance, but not a whole lot, you'll need some room for the glue, and if your doing a multiple shelf glue up you'll be thankful you gave yourself some room, if you don't leave the room, your glue can freeze up the joint before you get it all in place. Now we are ready for the actual shelf to be cut, the shelf is in place. And the first cut is performed. Click on image to enlarge. Once you get it all set up, the rest goes quickly, I routed the ends of my two shelves in 3 minutes. So, with the shelves now routed, the sides are slotted, we are getting ready for glue up. The rest is academic, we all know how to spread glue and insert board "A" into board "B". The only thing I would recommend here is to do a dry fit first, sometimes the boards might fit a little too snug, in which case all I do is wrap some 220 sandpaper around a paint stirrer sized stick and sand the insides of the slots to allow a little more room for the board to slide in. Use plenty of glue, to allow for lubrication while sliding the joints in place. The natural instinct is to use too little,we think that just because it is an interlocking joint that a lil dab will so ya. That may be so, but that lil dab will do ya philosophy will get you in trouble as you slide the joints in place and it freezes up on you half way through. Once the boards are in place, clamp it all up! This project up to this point took me about 2 hrs to complete, it is a simple project, fun to wind down with and you are able to freestyle it. No plans, just your eye. If I would change anything about this one, I would rip the board down to 4" instead of 6" for proportional sake only. Nevertheless I think she'll be happy with the small shelf for the wall of her mountain cabin. The dimensions are 28" tall by 18" wide and 6" deep. Though the routing setup and operation seemed like it took awhile in the tutorial, it actually only took about a half hr for setup, test cut, and final cutting. Once you get to know the jig just like with any jig, it all goes fast. Today I will sand it out to 180, apply some TransFast Early American Maple Dye and we'll talk about the rest of the finishing process in the next post! Thanks all for reading!
  23. I have a question about the printed labels from a Brother brand label maker - The labels are peel and stick and would there be a problem with the labels staying stuck on shellac? Thanks in advance,
  24. This is a side table I did based on a shaving stand Norm did on NYW. I used sliding dovetails for the side and bottom and to put the top on . The drawers have my first try at handcut dovetails. The only screws in the piece are in the base to attach it to the drawer box and in the drawer runners. The top had a nice figure in it which I did not see till I applied the shellac. Also my first time to french polish with shellac. The garnet shellac (the only finish) will even out the color of cherry so even the sapwood will not look so bright.
  25. Recently I was given a 12 inch wide 10 foot board that was 1 inch thick.  It was stored out in the weather for several years.  Upon cleaning up the board including all the cupping I found that this was a cedar board and that the grain had been brought out most dramatically. I decided to make a bowl with it.  This bowl is 10 inches in diameter and 3 3/4 inches tall.  This bowl was totally cut using the scroll saw.  The rings were cut at 22.5 degrees.  The bowl was sealed with tung oil then top coated with 4 coats of satin lacquer.     DW
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