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Found 26 results

  1. I had one small block of ugly ply that I haven't used because it is ugly. Drab colors and it didn't seem to be worth working with. It was among several blocks that I received as a gift. So I again tried to make a difficult, time consuming project. (Covid 19 isolated shop work) As I progressed, it didn't get any prettier and remained ugly. Then I got the bright (no pun intended) idea of using paint and glitter on the inside. Worked good. I added a center swing ball and it started to look better. It is actually a lot brighter than the picture shows. I prefer natural wood, but thats all of the UGLY colored ply left
  2. A friend of my wife called and asked how to thin latex paint. She was using one of those hobby paints and the container may hold a TBS. I told her to add a few drops of water, stir and continue until thin. She said that wouldn't work, she tried it and it was too dry to thin. Then my wife told her to thin it with Hydrogen Peroxide drop at a time and stir. Worked like a charm. The chemical symbol for water is H2O and for peroxide is H2O2. I guess the extra 2 Oxygen molecules made a big difference.
  3. Whatever poisonous garbage the Chinese are putting on Harbor frieght chisels is dangerous stuff. I smoked just a little of it off welding the bases of their 4" brick chisels. The stuff made my shop all smoky and like when one burns rubber there were weird floaties of black goo floating in the air. Then the sickness set in. My throat became terribly raw and I have sinus issues. I've never had a paint do this. I can't even guess what they used.
  4. I think I will let the moms and dads worry about teaching them where the other two lessor states are!!. Gloss and glitter used on the states and satin used over the acrylic paint around the states. The glitter shows up more than the picture shows......
  5. How do I paint a floating panel without effectively gluing it to the frame? I've seen many such panels split by humidity. Is it nothing more than paint it, then score the paint with a knife?
  6. This was an oft-referenced article on Wood, then Steve's store,Hardwood Lumber & More, then Steve's personal site, all of which have gone away. I hope this is fair use: PAINT ON A CLEAR EXTERIOR FINISH By steve@AskHLM.com on 3/22/2014 Paint On A Clear Exterior Finish We woodworkers (especially when it comes to finishing) are creatures of habit; we use the finishes we use because they are the finishes that we have always used. But, from time to time it's good to step back and examine old "truths" just to see if they really are true. The use of marine varnish to finish exterior elements in non-marine applications is one of those "truths" that has long needed to be revisited. That is the purpose of this article. Several years ago when I began participating in the WOOD Magazine Finishing & Refinishing Forum we regularly saw questions from homeowners and others asking for advice on the best way to finish exterior doors, especially those exposed to the weather and subject to high UV. The options then were Helmsman Spar Urethane (and its polyurethane look-alike competitors), expensive marine varnish, and exterior paint. Over the years little has changed except that, thankfully, more and more woodworkers today understand just how poorly any finish that contains urethane resin will perform when exposed to UV. Even with only partial exposure to direct sunlight polyurethane will fail quickly, often peeling like a bad sunburn before the end of even a single season. Marine varnish, then as now, was the recommendation of choice offered by a number of contributors. There is no arguing that quality marine varnishes will outperform polyurethane "spar varnishes" if UV resistance is the only objective. But, good marine varnish is very expensive; and, in reality it offers no reprieve from regular, on-going maintenance. You must still tend to the finish every year in full-sun environments; you must inspect, sand damaged areas, and recoat. Further, even those who regularly recommend marine varnish products will tell you that a minimum of 5 or 6 coats is required to obtain the full benefit of these finishes. So, not only are you applying two to three times more varnish; you are applying a product that costs two to three times more, and your maintenance schedule is unchanged. Further, it is important to understand that marine varnish is "long-oil" varnish; varnish that is softer and much less resistant to moisture in the form of water-vapor than regular or "short-oil" varnish. Moisture movement into and out of the wood with seasonal changes in relative humidity is every bit of destructive to joinery as UV is to wood. These quality marine varnishes are excellent finishes in their intended environment. If I owned a wooden boat I would use nothing else. But, we are not talking about maintaining a boat; our objective is to apply a durable finish to a front door and to use a finish that will offer maximum protection along with minimum maintenance. Quality oil-based exterior paint, sans the pigment, is ideally suited to this application. Exterior oil-based paint, after all, is little more than exterior oil-based varnish with a lot of pigment added. Remove the pigment and you have a very durable exterior varnish with additives that benefit the finish on your front door. These additives, intended to discourage insects such as wasps and wood boring bees, and prevent the growth of mold and mildew, would be useless in a marine environment; but, we aren't talking about a marine environment. We are talking about your front door. With this as a background permit me to introduce you to my friend Jim Kull. Jim was the owner of a successful refinishing shop in Southern California prior to his retirement and move to Texas. His retirement gave him a bit more time to experiment so he conducted and posted the results of the following test on the WOOD Magazine Finishing & Refinishing Forum where he served as the host. When Jim decided to step down from his host duties he was instrumental in my becoming host of that forum.Here then is Jim Kull's original post edited slightly for clarity: "In a recent post my friend, Steve (Mickley), made reference to my tests of doggie sprinkling on exterior finishes. I figure after almost a year of testing it is time to post some interesting discoveries. As a preface, allow me to set the stage. Almost daily there is a posting about clear, exterior finishes for doors, chairs, signs and such. Responses run the gamut from diehard marine finishes to apply a coat of primer and then paint. Each of these has a bit of a problem. Marine finishes are not always the easiest to find, and it grieves me to think of a lovely oak, teak, mahogany, fir, redwood or similar nice wood door painted in mauve goop. Bob (from Florida) inspired me with his continuing and accurate statements about the failings of a clear coat and the advantages of a good quality exterior paint. I decided after lots of reflection that he really was right but there was always the picture of mauve in my mind. So, how could one take advantage of his advice and yet capitalize on the beauty of a nice wood? I began to reflect on the characteristics of paint. Now comes the boredom... There were several things I knew about paint: Exterior paints contain a mildewcide and a fungicide that a (marine) varnish does not. The best quality paints will contain a UV (inhibitor) and trans-oxide pigments in very high percentages. Almost all paint is custom mixed by the store. The retailer maintains a large supply of base products that are used to achieve the desired color. There are generally four base products and the specific one for your paint is determined by your color choice. These base products are either named or numbered. They are named pastel, deep, tint and neutral. If numbered it is cleverly 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the exception of Olympic who numbers 1, 2, 3 and 5. Olympic is unaware that "4" comes before "5". Pastel and/or 1 is virtually a pure white and used for the lightest of colors. The others are slightly color altered from white and more translucent than pastel. These are used for succeeding deeper colors. All of this comes to neutral, 4 and/or 5. These are clear and used for (mixing) the darkest colors. In the can they are somewhat opaque but dry more or less clear. Now comes the testing. I bought 4 oak exterior doors. Each door was given one coat of the same MinWax Stain. On 3 of the doors, I applied 2 coats of "base" to the 6 sides of each door (3 coats on the top and bottom edges). Each of these three doors had a different type of exterior neutral, 4 or 5 base. The fourth door was finished with a consumer "spar" varnish from my local friendly paint/hardware store. The bases for the 3 painted doors were an exterior semi-gloss acrylic, an exterior semi-gloss oil-based polyurethane floor paint, and a semi-gloss oil-based trim and siding paint. The doors were set up, slightly inclined, in mostly direct sunlight under a pecan tree in the backyard. (My wife just loved that one.) Daily, the sprinklers managed to hit the doors. The birds in the pecan tree used the doors for target practice. And, yes, the dogs did anoint the doors on a regular basis. My blonde Cocker, Zazu, was particularly enamored with the doors. Over the course of the test the doors experienced lots of Texas sunlight, rain and snow. The temperature went from below freezing to over 100. The advantage to the inclined position of the doors was the snow, ice, water from the sprinklers and the rain tended to collect in the raised panel areas. I feel these doors were subjected to far more severe environmental conditions than would be expected from normal use. The results were interesting. The "spar" varnish (initially) looked fabulous; but, after about 2 weeks it began to develop small cracks. In rapid order the door began to turn black, started to mold and the smell was enough to knock a buzzard off of a manure wagon. The water-based acrylic is milky in the can like a water-based poly. It dried to a more or less water clear surface but was a bit cloudy. It tended to wash out the stain a bit. Over time it became cloudier and ultimately become almost white. But, it remained solid and protected the wood. The oil-based bases are also a bit opaque in the can but dried to a clear finish that is almost identical to a spar varnish - they added an amber tone to the doors. Both the oil-based poly floor paint and the oil-based trim and siding paint remained "clear" over the entire test period. The testing came to an end with a bit of encouragement. My wife said something clever like,"Get those damned doors out of the backyard!" She does not understand science. The floor poly had some minor checking and a thinned coat of the same base over the surface made that disappear. The door with the oil-based trim and siding paint was perfect, other than it had lost a bit of the gloss. So, I am with Bob - paint the door. My preference is the oil-based products. If you are predisposed to a water-based use an acrylic rather than latex. One thing you will find when you go out shopping for your product is a lack of knowledge on the part of the salesperson. Not many of these folk are aware that their neutral or 4 base will dry clear. If you want to have some fun, spring it on them. They will suggest you are full of Donkey Dust. Ask them to shake a can and put some on a stir stick. Dry it and voila, it is clear." Jim Kull One final admonition; if you decide to try the paint solution you must understand that you are applying it like varnish, not like paint. Use a good natural fiber brush, keep your coats thin, (emphasis added; keep the coats thin! We recommend thinning with paint thinner to improve flow-out and leveling.) and brush the paint-base out into a thin, uniform film. If you apply the paint-base too heavily you will get a cloudy finish. Addendum to Earlier Article Several important things have changed since this article was originally written. Perhaps the most important development has been the advent of low VOC products. Many of the oil-based exterior paints still on the market have been reformulated to meet the more stringent VOC requirements. While these products will still work it is important to understand that thinning these products introduces new requirements. The low VOC paint bases can not be thinned with mineral spirits/paint thinner. You must thin with naphtha. If you do not; if you attempt to thin with traditional mineral spirits/paint thinner the finish will remain tacky literally for days and will never cure properly. The second and somewhat more frustration development is that oil-based products are becoming more and more difficult to find. They are available, primarily in paint stores that cater to the trade; but, they will require more searching, possible even beyond city, county or even state borders. The oil-based paint bases remain superior. Even though some water-borne finishes will work they simply will not last as long. Copyright 2003-2010 Steve Mickley, Copyright 2007-2010 Hardwood Lumber & More…Ltd. All rights reserved. No unauthorized reproduction of any images or content without permission. All logos are Copyrights of their respective companies. Author steve@AskHLM.com Copyright 2014 by Ask HLM
  7. For our house remodel we found the windows are preprimed white over pine. They are still is great condition and no drafts or moisture so replacing them is not in the cards. We are going to be changeing the doors, door trim, base molding and shoe molding to be all stained oak. But the Windows we want to leave white. What do you guys think? I am a little aprehensive.
  8. For our house remodel we found the windows are preprimed white over pine. They are still is great condition and no drafts or moisture so replacing them is not in the cards. We are going to be changeing the doors, door trim, base molding and shoe molding to be all stained oak. But the Windows we want to leave white. What do you guys think? I am a little aprehensive.
  9. We have a house new to us and it has painted wood trim (pine) white that does not fit the character of the ranch house. I am replacing that trim with the following. Doors flutes, rosettes, and plinth blocks Windows flutes, rosettes, jamb, sill Baseboards , plain board 4 to 6" tall then quarter round on the floor and cove molding on the top. In your humble opinion should I invest in real wood mouldings (oak stained and dyed to highlight the grain) or MDF painted white. The investiment will be substantial and I need to know which this community would like to go for. IF natural more detail work to get everything tight and looking good. If mdf (cheaper than oak) and white trim can be flubbed with caulk.
  10. Best to invest in a good hard wood trim or mdf painted white?
  11. Have you ever seen this technique for applying paint? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSoiCo-lA&feature=youtu.be Herb
  12. Few weeks ago my Dad brings me this dilapidated looking wooden box. Cracked sides, falling apart and has that musty stale air smell. Tells me he needs this fixed up and make sure it will be able to handle rough use, use screws he tells me. He is in a K-9 Search and Rescue Unit so they are on the move and have to set up, then move out again. Have no idea what goes in it. Took it apart, pieces broke, a real mess. The top, useless, nothing salvaged. Hinges and hardware, a disaster just chunked them. Replaced the bottom and ends with some 3/4 ish plywood scrap I had as well as the lid. Used some of the old broken pieces to make the frame for the lid and glued it up. Same with the box part. Since Dad mentioned screws I added them as well, ya know just to be sure. Then looked at it and decided to have some fun and proceeded to use the entire box of 2 inch screws, 50 in all. The plywood was scrap so I used the nice looking sides on the inside and clear coated them with 3 coats of Helmsman Urethane. Not a furniture finish but I use it on stuff that goes outside like shovel handles and such. The outside I got creative. He had mentioned to make it visible and something he would notice at a glance. Looking through my collection I found this smoke gray, perfect for bottom, oil based and durable. Check. The top, hey purple is cool people!!! To finish it off I added his initials in bright white, he said be noticeable!! The handles are webbing for a weed eater long since retired. To make the holes for the 1/4 bolts I used to attach them I took a piece of 1/4 round stock and made a sharp point. Heated it up with a torch and then slid the webbing over it. Makes a perfect hole and will not rip. Should last a lifetime. All in all a fun project. I can imagine the looks it will get when he breaks this out next search.
  13. I wanted to try using latex paint to fade from one tint to another. I used the multi color ply and some maple. I kept tinkering until I liked the effect and sprayed it with poly. The one thing that is missing is the wood look, but I guess if I turned it, it still counts.
  14. Artie


    Hi, my name is Artie, and I’m new here (maybe 2 months) and new to woodworking. This is my first post on the finishing forum. I just made my first scroll saw project (that story is on the scrolling forum LOL). I made a shamrock, with it being Saint Patricks Day, and all. It is 3/8 Baltic Birch from Woodcraft. Do I sand with a fine sand paper (grade/number?) ? Or as I read somewhere else, do I not sand because the plus are so thin on 3/8? Prime with an interior primer, and then paint with an interior house paint? Latex? Oil based? I was thinking a Kelly Green, semi-gloss. Any thoughts/opinions/advice anyone can throw my way is appreciated. Thank you All, Artie
  15. Every once in a while we want to put an opaque finish (paint) on a wood project. One problem that occurs is "blocking" of water-borne finishes. This is a property where the finish glues itself to objects or itself. Faces or edges in contact glue themselves together. Books (that sit for a long time) or lamps, etc. get glued in place. Generally this is a problem with cheaper finishes. And it's more likely for a partially cured finish. What to do -- look for a product that has blocking resistance. This usually means passing up the $15 a gallon paint at Wal*mart and going for a more expensive paint. Though it might take some research through the vendor or manufacturer's site to determine which products those are. Paints with 100% acrylic resin, as opposed to other resins used in these paints, are most likely to have minimal blocking. The labels and names (blah-blah) are likely to be of little help. Another alternative, when possible, is to avoid water-borne products. If you can spray lacquer, that would be an alternative. So would using an oil-based paint if you are in an area where you can buy it. Tales from the touch-up guy: A few years ago, I got a call from an interior designer with a problem. She had contracted to have a bookcase built for a customer. It was painted with a gray paint. The bookcase was just a series of different shaped boxes that stacked in various ways. Within a few months, the boxes had glued themselves together. I got the call to fix it. I ended up having to actually pry the boxes apart with a pry bar to get some of them apart. And they were so well glued that few places actually pulled off the top veneer from the plywood. Got it fixed up and repainted the damaged spots. Let it cure for a few days. Then I applied a clear high-quality w/b finish. Let that cure for a week. Then I applied a furniture wax as a barrier coat. Got family in next week, so I'm probably going to take off Christmas and New Year's Day posts. More reading: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/ask-sherwin-williams/problem-solver/peeling-cracking/sw-article-dir-adhesion-block
  16. Folks, another long project in our saga of refinancing our home through the VA. We are now neck deep in tear out and rebuild of our entire second story master bedroom balcony and shade structure for the patio below. The wood was dry-rotted, I let it go waaay too long. And now I have it all ripped out, and I got a stack full of wonderful Rough Doug Fir for the project. While I have been performing the structural portion of this project, wife and kids have been painting the boards. We purchased some 6" mini rollers 3/4 nap. The problem is the fibers from the roughsawn lumber coat the rollers to the point that they become a hardened mess almost, just imagine a tiny splinters getting entangled in the nap. We need a thick nap, because the lumber is rough, but at the same time, the nap gets clogged with the fibers. Any suggestions on a type of roller to use are greatly appreciated. Spraying is out of the question because of our proximity to neighbors and we don't really have anywhere to set up for that. Plus, my wife and kids are having some wonderful "bonding" moments during this project, I'd rather keep them painting as a team. Here is a few images of what I am doing. The old balcony and deck and shade structure before. Shade structure is gone. Balcony gone. About two thirds of the lumber is sitting here, the rest is in our shop. The painting operation. This is a complete removal and replace, nothing will be used over, accept the ledgers against the house, they are in great condition and bolted firmly to the home. Thanks VA for forcing me off me arse!
  17. Folks, I have some nice poplar boards, and I am going to make another vanity with the boards, for another bathroom in our home. The entire vanity will be poplar, the outside will be painted a cream white or off white, and the inside will be varnished. The poplar I have has those wonderful dark green and dark streaks, I have heard that poplar colors will bleed through most paints, what can I do to prevent the bleed through, or is what I have heard and read a myth? Thanks!
  18. Have a road trip this weekend to go to.....about 402 miles one way. A weekend get together of woodworkers. Needed a sign made, like the ones from M.A.S.H. 4077th, to show where we came from.. Had a strip of plywood left over.....instant sign board. Painted it BRIGHT RED. More on that in a moment.. Bought two bags of letters. Not enough time or saw blades to cut them with the scrollsaw... Bought a box of nails.. Letters needed a coat of paint.... "Paint it black"? ( might be a song title in there, somewhere....) Tried them out with the sign board.. "(NEVER work on a Monday..) Every time I'd hit a letter with the spray paint, it wanted to fly away. Finally got an old screwdriver to hold them still...let this mess dry for a while.... Yep...see IF you can spot the mistake.... Town is now known as Bellefontaine....it's original name ( even before OHIO) was BlueJacket's Town. The Shawnee War Chief's town he called home. The High School's colours are Red & Black. Needed a pilot hole drilled, to hang the sign.. All the cordless drills were elsewhere....seemed to do ok.. Needed a countersink made, too.. Might just do. All those tiny nails....too small for my fingers to hold onto, AND hammer them in place. Used a pair of needle nosed pliers. Still managed to bend a few. The only hammer I could find that would really drive those nails..was a 16 oz claw hammer. Later, after things cool off around here, I'll paint a new "J" letter to replace the backwards one. I'll get back to making the doors for the Pantry Cupboard, when I get back home..and NOT on a Monday....
  19. ...what does the Great Eye say?" "We have work to do..." Soo, as for that langdon mitre box.. Need a hammerdrill to loosen the bolts that held these feet in place....rusty & krusty. Used a bowl to hold all the bolts coming off of the box.. Had already cleaned a few of these parts.....frame is quite nasty, dirty, and a touch rusty... I already have cleaned the quadrant scale. As for the two plates that make up the deck? Wire wheel to clean the painted sides up, sander to clean the non-painted sides...can of RED paint.. I intend to get some good out od this old stand..... Ooops...oh well..compost happens. Bit of a breeze today. Decided to go ahead and paint all the surfaces on the two plates....not too worried about leaving the plates out there, we have security.. 1/2 of the "team".. And the other half. need to wire wheel all the rusty parts, and give them a coat of Black paint. Bolts will get shined up.. IF I can see them... Some of these parts are already done......some will need a shot of black paint. Bright parts will stay "bright". Might take a day or three...stay tuned ( the quote at the start of this page? Comes from the "Two Towers")
  20. A long time ago, I did this project for a retail customer. Long story short, they gave up this vendor and needed to move the pieces left in stock. Consumer wanted this look, that wasn't one of the options left in inventory.. Applied a couple of coats of white lacquer, then burnt umber glaze, then clear lacquer. I was as glad to be rid of this mfr as the retailer was. Not my tastes, but "whatever." Before During After. White spots across natural stained top are "dusty wax," another of their specialties that caused all sorts of problems. My wife always said it looked like "Insufficient housecleaning," which I guess was the intent. Dusty wax On Off And another job, same mfr, customer wanted the painted highlights on the front of this armoire, what was originally all stained.
  21. Gerald


    From the album: Hollow Forms

    This Spalted Magnolia hollow form is turned from wood from the old Federal Courthouse in Jackson,MS. The tree was cut down by a subcontractor who was not supposed to do that. I asked my DIL what her favorite color was and got pink as the answer. So I did a light red, then use acrylic paint on the rim for a "crowning " touch.
  22. I am making another ornament. Gerald asked if I used paint on one I had made. I told him that I never use paint. Then I thought, why not? I could look good if used properly. So I used some paint to make stripes. I got the finish on and promptly dropped it on the floor. AHHHHHHHHHH! that is why you don't see a picture. I'm going to look at it tomorrow and see what I can do. I darn sure don't want to redo it.
  23. Well, a part of the haul that came home with the tool box, was a little eggbeater drill... Lovely, ain't it? Well, after cleaning all the other items inside that box, and putting them away, I could finally start on a rehab of this eggbeater drill....drum roll, if you please.. Look any better? Name that was stamped into the handle? Granlt Tool Comp. New York Germany Not sure who actually made the drill. The cap on the handle was glued in place long ago. Handle just threads onto the end of the frame. Three jaw chuck. Drill has a single gear. Frame is shaped like a milk bottle? I re-painted the frame a Rustoleum black, and the spokes of the drive gear a red colour. All moving parts were oiled up. The wood parts were wiped off, and then a coat of 3in1oil added. Most of the clean up was by a wire wheel. Set a Millers Falls No. 2-01 beside this little drill.. Mutt & Jeff? The little guy was never drilled or tapped for a side handle.. I suppose one could drill and tap a small hole, to mount a side handle, IF they wanted one. I don't really think this one needs it. Drill was $3, at s yard sale...the only old tool she had. Might make some use out of it....
  24. A lady at our church asked me to paint four shutters for her. Mush to my dismay, the paint she gave me was water based latex. I recently read a finishing article that said to thin latex with windshield washer fluid. I cut the latex at 10% and sprayed it with a drop feed sprayer at about 45 PSI. It worked but better than I could imagine. The alcohol in the washer fluid sped the drying process and the finish was quite smooth. Who'd a thunk it?
  25. Well, had that $1 mitrebox, very rusty and neglected That big old bolt had to go. Found a couple thumbscrews. Tossed the old pine deck. Strip off all the rustiness. Wire wheeled things clean and shiny. Added a few layers of Rustoleum Black from a rattle can. After that had dried, added some red paint. Came from a Duplicolour Red used for scratch repairs....took the assembled thing outside, to bask in the sun for awhile... The backsaw I already had on hand, just needed a home for it, right? Note the red numbers? Well, there are a few more.. While cleaning this thing up, noted that this area was also red. Merely restored the letters. Plywood deck will just have to do.... Even shined up the saw guides. And, since all the rust had been cleaned off, the swivel is even wobble free. Not too bad...for a dollar bill? Stanley No.150 mitrebox, with saw.
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