Often people beginning struggle with finishing.  They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not.  Sort of like using the same tool for every operation.   In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.)

 

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes

 

Edited January 15, 20197 yr by kmealy

Funny that they pick the three I use for most everything. 

Well I am finishing molding in a bathroom.  So humidity will be a challenge.

That is why I am chosing water based poly on top of oil based stain/dye.

 

I don't like the Danish oil as a finish.  After I apply it the piece looks like it is unfinished to me strictly for it's lack of.  Poly gives the best shine but I prefer lacquer and shellac which seem to have more of a satin look.  The lacquer smells the house up for hours if used indoors so I only use it if I can be outside to apply it.  

Moved topic out of Finishing Tips to Finishing

Recycled content in today's e-mail newsletter from Wood.  Remember that Steve used to call it "polyoneverythane"

 

 https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes?did=513265-20200416&utm_campaign=wood-online_newsletter&utm_source=woodmagazine.com&utm_medium=email&utm_content=041620&cid=513265&mid=32379941176

He didn't much care for foam brushes or lacquer either, as I recall. I like your statement in the opening post about some folks call everything "poly". That's so true, and it often gets confusing when someone asks a question about a finish referring to it as poly, when it's something completely unrelated. Back to the 3 finishes. I like all 3, but prefer making my own danish oil (I think Watco may be just wiping varnish).

34 minutes ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

He didn't much care for foam brushes or lacquer either, as I recall. I like your statement in the opening post about some folks call everything "poly". That's so true, and it often gets confusing when someone asks a question about a finish referring to it as poly, when it's something completely unrelated. Back to the 3 finishes. I like all 3, but prefer making my own danish oil (I think Watco may be just wiping varnish).

I used a roller for putting on lacquer once. 

Notice  I said once.

44 minutes ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

I used a roller for putting on lacquer once. 

Notice  I said once.

Yep, I can believe that (the "once" part).

Just now, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Yep, I can believe that (the "once" part).

Might have been a hold my beer moment.

Watco and poly (the real stuff, oil based) mixed at 50/50 for the first coat, makes a nice wipe on finish. With each succeeding coat, more poly is mixed in. I try for 20 or 30 percent more for each of 3 more coats. Final coat (5th) is straight poly. It's time consuming as I let each coat dry overnight and lightly sand between coats. But, the result is a really nice finish. Most often it'll get a wax job applied with Liberon 0000 wool.

I love Watco!

The last time I purchased and used Shellac, it turned hard in about 6 months.  Yes, the lid was tightly sealed, but it firmed up, so it went into the trash.  I don't use finish that often.  I like BLO, lacquer and poly.  

 

When I worked on decals and aircraft instruments for the Navy rework facility, we used lacquer paints.  Most paints we used were dull, we had a flat clear and a high gloss clear.  I never liked the flat, so I use glossy on things that I want to be glossy.  If it is food safe, I use plain old mineral oil.  No finish.  

On 4/16/2020 at 1:43 PM, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

 (I think Watco may be just wiping varnish).

Watco has gone thru a number of owners.   Watco-Dennis gave up on it when some idiot burned down his house because he threw wet rags in a trash can.

 

But last time I check the SDS (previously known as MSDS), it was roughly

- 6/9 mineral spirits

- 2/9 boiled linseed oil

- 1/9 varnish

trace amounts of coloring, depending upon shade.

 

I was always under the impression that the walnut shades used Gilsonite (i.e., tar) for the coloring.

 

When I first stared woodworking (40+ years ago), I used Watco.  Like most people, I found something that I could successfully use, then used that for nearly everything.   I fortified the ratio by adding some oil-based varnish.

That would make it a danish oil. I would like to test some, but I've never used it. Over the years Flexner has called it both a wiping varnish, and a danish oil...making me think it has changed from time to time.

What is the dry / cure time on Watch or Danish oil?

Flexner says he coined the term oil-varnish blend.  And what Watco is.

7 hours ago, Woodbutcherbynight said:

What is the dry / cure time on Watch or Danish oil?

Depends on which coat you are talking about. The more coats the ,longer it takes. Two coats cure well enought to buff in a week depending on the weather.