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Found 3 results

  1. First let me say I’m sorry I haven’t been around lately. Sold my house at the worst possible time, trying to find another one is extremely challenging and stressful. Not to mention my sister has been diagnosed with Altzhiemers...you guys and this forum have been so good to me that I felt you should know...anyhow, I’ve seen a lot of turning videos and it seems everyone is using Acks products for a finish. Does anyone here use it? If so, does it hold a lasting shine? Just curious. I use EEE sanding paste and Aussie Oil as a finish. The Aussie oil seems to hold a much longer shine than wax does. Again, just curious....
  2. I’m about to step into uncharted territory. The local fire chief paid me a visit today with a job. Last year, one of the volunteer firefighters built an 8 foot table for the station and applied a poured 2 part epoxy finish on it. His plan was to let the epoxy cure for a year and then polish it. Unfortunately, he died suddenly before he could complete the project. I’ve been asked to polish the top but have never done so. Any of you folks ever tackled such a project? If so, what’s the process? Inquiring minds want to know.
  3. TGIF Furniture Polishes Some people feel the need to polish furniture. We’ll explore the options. There are a few things that cause finishes to deteriorate · Exposure to light · Oxidation · Physical damage –impact, scratches, water, foods, solvent, heat, body oils (acidic), chemicals Polishes, other than providing some light cleaning, don’t do much except make the surface a little slipperier to reduce scuffing. They can also make a nice smell, and to conceal surface damage, and provide some internal gratification that you (or the housekeeper) are doing something.. One thing you do want to do is to remove contaminants.* One particularly bad one is body oil that you see on the edges of desks and tables, and arms on backs of chairs. Its acidic content can degrade finishes over time, resulting in a gooey mess. Eventually if you try to remove the goo, you will remove "what used to be finish" down to the raw wood. There are five different types of polish for furniture 0. (What I always call the zero option) Do nothing. You don’t NEED to polish furniture 1. An oil, typically a petroleum distillate such as mineral oil. 2. An emulsion, a combination of oil and water 3. A silicone-based polish 4. Wax Do nothing Most of the world does not polish furniture. When finished, wood & finish does not need to be fed, moisturized have “essential oils replaced” or any other such misleading care. Polishes do not protect the finish from damage. For regular cleaning, just dust with a cloth and/or * clean with a dampened cloth, maybe with a bit of detergent. Oil These finishes are a lightweight oil that will provide some shine. The oil slowly evaporates away. These are clear polishes in the container and may be colored orange or yellow. Even if they are called orange oil or lemon oil, they are just petroleum products with some added color or scent. There is a product called d-Limonene that is an extract from citrus rinds and is a light solvent. Example products: Old English, a variety of products called Lemon Oil or Orange Oil. Emulsions These are mixtures of water and oil. In the container they have a milky appearance. The water helps do some cleaning and the oils stay behind after the water evaporates and evaporates at a slower rate. Example products: Guardsman, OZ, Endust Mini Science Lesson : The first rule of solvents is “likes dissolve likes.” That is, water is good at dissolving and cleaning water-based stains – sweat, food, general dirt & dust. Water is sometimes called “the universal solvent.” Oils dissolve greasy stains. (The chemical reason is that water is a polar solvent (has a negative and positive side) and oils (and petroleum distillates) are non-polar solvents. Most contamination is water-based. * Water-based cleaners will remove the body oils. Silicones Silicone is a slick oil that adds shine and lubricates the surface. Very slow evaporating. It can leave smudges when wiped with your finger. The worst problem, though, is it will wreak havoc on refinishing. You can’t get rid of all the oil, even when stripping and sanding and can cause fish-eyes when you apply a finish. Example products: Pledge (the most commonly used polish) Wax This was covered some in the TGIF on wax. Wax is the most time consuming to apply as you have to buff it off, but is the longest-lasting as it does not evaporate. It does little to do cleaning, but does add some lubrication. It is better at filling in scratches, crackling, or dings. Example products: Johnson’s Wax, Minwax, Trewax, Briwax Briwax contains toluene as a solvent that can damage some finishes.
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