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Found 9 results

  1. First let me say I’m sorry I haven’t been around lately. Sold my house at the worst possible time, trying to find another one is extremely challenging and stressful. Not to mention my sister has been diagnosed with Altzhiemers...you guys and this forum have been so good to me that I felt you should know...anyhow, I’ve seen a lot of turning videos and it seems everyone is using Acks products for a finish. Does anyone here use it? If so, does it hold a lasting shine? Just curious. I use EEE sanding paste and Aussie Oil as a finish. The Aussie oil seems to hold a much longer shine than wax does. Again, just curious....
  2. Last year I bought a couple of turning blocks from Rockler. They were not large and were coated in a good coat of wax. It was an experiment for me. I wanted a source of exotic wood in my area. I didn't get around to using them for a few months and when I did, I was surprised and disappointed. The wood was wet inside that wax. That irritated me, I was sure it should be dry and ready to use. Yesterday I returned to Rockler, because of my wife. She wanted to go to Joann's material store and it is across the street from Rockler. I was the only customer and got great service. I didn't complain about the block I had gotten, but asked how to properly use those waxed blocks. He said " Remove the wax and place in a paper bag. Then after 30 days it should be OK to use." It has to have time to dry out evenly. I sure wish someone had said that before or at least some instructions on the wood. As we were talking he noticed my Viet Nam vet pin on my hat and we had a conversation about things. He too, had some bad memories and we immediately knew the brotherhood. As I checked out, I asked if Rockler had a veterans discount, He said, "Brother, today we do"
  3. Characteristics summary. Remember, pick the characteristics you want and live with the rest of what you get. Product Application Curing Odor Protection Repairability Oil Cloth Slow Some Low 1 Moderate Oil-varnish Cloth Slow Some Some 3 Moderate Varnish Cloth, brush Slow Some High 9 Low Wax Cloth Fast Low Low 0 Moderate Shellac Cloth, brush, Fast Some Moderate 6 High or Spray Lacquer Brush, spray Fast High Moderately high 8 High Waterborne Brush, spray Fast Low Moderately high 8 Moderate -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stain Cloth, brush, Fast to Moderate* n/a n/a or spray* slow* Glaze Cloth, brush Slow Low 0 n/a Toner Spray Fast* Some to high* 5-8 * moderate * depending upon medium
  4. This is the Rob Corson dowel hinge. With a bullnose or ball router bit on a router table the size of the dowel, route a 1/4 round slot in the back of lid and back of box. Set the fence at the center of the bit diameter and run the top and the box through. The fence can be set in or out to suit the particular box and how wide the lid opens. Take a dowel the same size as the router bit and cut lengths to suit the length of the box, they can be the same length or different lengths. Drill a hole in the center of the dowel the size of the pin. The pin can be metal rod, or wooden dowels. Assemble the dowels on the rod, and adjust to the length of the box,marking the positions of the dowel segments on the box and the top. Put a little glue on every other segment on the box. MAKE SURE THE GLUE HAS ROOM TO SQUEEZE OUT AND NOT SQUEEZE INTO THE NEXT DOWEL SPACE. Carefully lay the assembled dowel hinge onto the glue. Carefully set the top on and lightly clamp down When the glue is dry lift off the top and spin the every other dowel. Then apply a small amount of glue onto the free spinning segments of dowels allowing for squeeze out of the glue. carefully set the top on and clamp lightly. Allow the glue to dry. After the glue has set, gently open the box. The Joy you feel when the box opens is beyond description, the sinking feeling if it doesn't is beyond printing. Only had one that didn't open, and I have done a lot of them. You can also wax the pin,if you so desire. Herb
  5. There is not a lot of things to say about wax finishes, so only three things, not three pros and three cons. I am not talking about waxed finishes, but simply using a wax as the one and only finish. Some waxes are light amber, but you can get waxes in a variety of darker colors where the color has been added. Wax is an evaporative finish, meaning with the thinner or solvent evaporates, you are left with the finish. No more chemistry happens. Usually the solvent is mineral spirits, but sometimes, as in the original Briwax, it's something else, in that case tolulol (aka toluene). (So the original Briwax can be a bit too aggressive for new finishes as it's meant more of a restorative wax over a finish, that is, a waxed finish). Waxes are one or more of three types: - Animal (e.g., beeswax) - Vegetable (e.g., carnauba) - Mineral (e.g., paraffin) Three things: + easy to apply - to quote a movie, wax-on, wax-off. Let most of the solvent dry, then buff out. I like to say you want a finish just a few molecules thick, so take off as much as you possibly can, then buff a little more. Wax build-up can attract dirt and not be very attractive. + easy to repair - Just add some more - wax on; wax off - minimal protection - while wax can beautify a wood, it does not do much to protect it from moisture, soiling, etc. It would be appropriate for things that don't get much contact such as art turning, picture frames, etc.
  6. A fellow cut down a chestnut tree, not knowing it was being watched and cared for by the University of Georgia. I was given some of the wood. By the time I got it, some of it had already developed cracks, so I wanted to seal it. I looked around and found a package of food canning wax, got out my blower heater, and melted it onto the ends. Took about 30 seconds, didn't need to melt a bunch of wax and dip the ends in it, and it seemed to do a good job. I had been putting a pan on a heater, melting it, and dipping it. Thought someone else might like the idea.
  7. Dadio

    Wax

    What kind of wax do you use? I used to use Johnsons paste wax and several years ago Bonnie Klein a local wood turner was giving a demonstration for our WW Club and mentioned she liked the Lundmark carnuba paste wax. She said she uses it because it gives a hard finish and easy to apply and buff out and prevents finger prints on her work when people handle it. So I bought some and have been using it since with good results. https://www.amazon.com/Lundmark-Wax-LUN-3206P001-6-Applicable-Paste/dp/B000BYAQC2?SubscriptionId=AKIAIKBZ7IH7LXTW3ARA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000BYAQC2&tag=wwwbookcompar-20&ascsubtag=5a7e56cceba0c90d98bc9bd8 Herb
  8. TGIF Furniture Polishes Some people feel the need to polish furniture. We’ll explore the options. There are a few things that cause finishes to deteriorate · Exposure to light · Oxidation · Physical damage –impact, scratches, water, foods, solvent, heat, body oils (acidic), chemicals Polishes, other than providing some light cleaning, don’t do much except make the surface a little slipperier to reduce scuffing. They can also make a nice smell, and to conceal surface damage, and provide some internal gratification that you (or the housekeeper) are doing something.. One thing you do want to do is to remove contaminants.* One particularly bad one is body oil that you see on the edges of desks and tables, and arms on backs of chairs. Its acidic content can degrade finishes over time, resulting in a gooey mess. Eventually if you try to remove the goo, you will remove "what used to be finish" down to the raw wood. There are five different types of polish for furniture 0. (What I always call the zero option) Do nothing. You don’t NEED to polish furniture 1. An oil, typically a petroleum distillate such as mineral oil. 2. An emulsion, a combination of oil and water 3. A silicone-based polish 4. Wax Do nothing Most of the world does not polish furniture. When finished, wood & finish does not need to be fed, moisturized have “essential oils replaced” or any other such misleading care. Polishes do not protect the finish from damage. For regular cleaning, just dust with a cloth and/or * clean with a dampened cloth, maybe with a bit of detergent. Oil These finishes are a lightweight oil that will provide some shine. The oil slowly evaporates away. These are clear polishes in the container and may be colored orange or yellow. Even if they are called orange oil or lemon oil, they are just petroleum products with some added color or scent. There is a product called d-Limonene that is an extract from citrus rinds and is a light solvent. Example products: Old English, a variety of products called Lemon Oil or Orange Oil. Emulsions These are mixtures of water and oil. In the container they have a milky appearance. The water helps do some cleaning and the oils stay behind after the water evaporates and evaporates at a slower rate. Example products: Guardsman, OZ, Endust Mini Science Lesson : The first rule of solvents is “likes dissolve likes.” That is, water is good at dissolving and cleaning water-based stains – sweat, food, general dirt & dust. Water is sometimes called “the universal solvent.” Oils dissolve greasy stains. (The chemical reason is that water is a polar solvent (has a negative and positive side) and oils (and petroleum distillates) are non-polar solvents. Most contamination is water-based. * Water-based cleaners will remove the body oils. Silicones Silicone is a slick oil that adds shine and lubricates the surface. Very slow evaporating. It can leave smudges when wiped with your finger. The worst problem, though, is it will wreak havoc on refinishing. You can’t get rid of all the oil, even when stripping and sanding and can cause fish-eyes when you apply a finish. Example products: Pledge (the most commonly used polish) Wax This was covered some in the TGIF on wax. Wax is the most time consuming to apply as you have to buff it off, but is the longest-lasting as it does not evaporate. It does little to do cleaning, but does add some lubrication. It is better at filling in scratches, crackling, or dings. Example products: Johnson’s Wax, Minwax, Trewax, Briwax Briwax contains toluene as a solvent that can damage some finishes.
  9. The Product Before beginning, it’s important to distinguish between a wax finish and a waxed finish. A wax finish is using wax as the only finishing product. A waxed finish is using a wax as a polish over another finish such as the ones we’ve already covered. Waxes are of different types Animal – beeswax Vegetable – for example, carnauba Mineral – paraffin (a petroleum product) Synthetic A wax product may (and often is) a combination of different kinds of waxes. To make it workable, it can be dissolved (softened) in a solvent to make it into a stick (solid), paste, or liquid. Most often the solvent is mineral spirits or naphtha. In some products (Briwax is one), the solvent is toluene that is a stronger solvent and may damage some finishes, but serves as a restorative wax when used as a polish. Years ago, wax was used because it was about the only finish available (and cheap) to a common craftsperson. Characteristics Wax, when used as a finish, is as closer than any finish to being no finish at all. Some waxes are tinted and can adjust the color of the wood. The main reasons to apply any finish are: · To beautify the wood · To protect it from damage and soiling · To provide a cleanable surface Wax mostly fails on the last two. I think waxes have limited use as a finish and the best application is something that is not handled or used as a work surface, for example, turned objects that sit on a shelf, picture frames, carvings, artwork, etc. You would not want to put this on an everyday dining table where a spilled glass of red wine or splash of spaghetti sauce will stain the underlying wood. Don’t confuse water beading up with water not penetrating. Waxes melt about 140-150 degrees (depending on type) Wax does not "feed and nourish the wood," it's dead. Pros: · Fast drying · Easily restored with minimal equipment and odor · Changes the color of wood very little (when a clear wax is used) Cons · Not very protective · Minimal resistance to heat, solvents, abrasion, soiling · Minimal resistance to liquid water and water vapor (unless put on very thick) Application Wax on / wax off. You can spray, brush, or rag on the liquid forms and rag on the paste forms. Let the solvent flash off a bit, then buff. If you are using a rag, you can add a chunk of paste wax to a cloth, wrap it in, and squeeze the wax through the fabric to apply. The best wax finish (and waxed finish) is just a few molecules thick. Left on too thick, it can look sloppy, smudge and smear, and attract dirt. You can repeat waxing and buffing as needed over time. If you are applying wax to a turned object, you can use the solid wax applied to the piece while it’s turning on the lathe. The friction melts the wax and gets it on the piece. Buff off the same way. Lubricant Wax is also useful either on raw wood or finished wood as a lubricant such as on drawer sides and runners. It does not need to be buffed off here. I rub on a stick of paraffin (sold as canning wax in the grocery store) and slide back and forth to burnish it in. Wax for cutting boards One good application for wax is as a finish for cutting boards. The normal recipe is to heat one part of wax to six or seven parts of mineral oil in a double boiler (not direct heat). Apply liberally to a cutting board surface, allow to cool and harden and scrape/wipe off the excess. Repeat as needed. Wax as a polish If you want to use wax as a polish, apply and buff off as much as you can, then a bit more. Left on too thick, it can smudge. You only need to do this every year or so, with just dusting in between. The wax will add a soft luster and provide some lubrication to reduce abrasion. In carved areas, you can use a toothbrush or shoe brush to buff out the wax. You can use a colored wax to highlight some of the details such as turnings or carvings. There is also another wax called “dusty wax” that is a waxed thinned to a liquid, then powdered pumice is added. Put on and wiped off, it adds a light gray/white accent to a piece--sort of an instant faux antique. One of my customers used to sell a lot of furniture with dusty wax on it. My wife always said it looked like “insufficient housecleaning.” To each his own, I suppose. Another use of wax is as a “finish the finish” Apply wax with 0000 steel wool after the last coat of finish is cured. Buff off to get a very smooth final finish. Wax will also help restore an old finish without needing to strip and refinish (1). Fixing Goofs Not much you can do wrong except apply to an inappropriate surface or leave too much on. You can remove (most of) the wax by wiping with rags moistened in mineral spirits of naphtha, using fresh rags and turning often. You probably won’t get it all, so do your best and seal with shellac if you want to top coat Once you use wax as a polish, avoid using other liquid polishes that might interact with it. Pick either wax or liquid polish and stick with it Further reading: (1) Using wax as a step in restoring/saving an old finish: http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/cleaning-waxing-old-furniture/ http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/cleaning-waxing-old-furniture/
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