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Found 17 results

  1. Often people beginning struggle with finishing. They find one that usually works, then use that one on everything, whether it's the best fit or not. Sort of like using the same tool for every operation. In fact some non-woodworkers tend to think of every finish as "polyurethane" (I've had customers say this to many times about their factory furniture.) https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/finishing/3finishes
  2. Finally got around to making some photos of my new turnings. This one is Bradford Pear dyed with Chestnut Stains. Finish is lacquer. I tried something different on the dye because I got the idea when applying the stain . I applied a full width application all the way down the piece and then started only going part way down the side to get the effect you see in the picture looking like a run down the sides. That gave me the idea to do the whole thing that way so I had to sand off the first full pass. The wood was almost burned because that void at the top was rotten into the center.
  3. I think I will let the moms and dads worry about teaching them where the other two lessor states are!!. Gloss and glitter used on the states and satin used over the acrylic paint around the states. The glitter shows up more than the picture shows......
  4. Smallpatch

    Red birds

    No where near done yet so these colors will change as I squirt on the finishing touches.. I have also decided the best possible place for viewing would be in a very dark surrounding..like with no flashlight then you see nothing. The snow is the only place that has any clear over the stains so no telling what will show up next.. Nothing glued down yet so I still got time to play around with it.. For sure the frame will turn green..
  5. Can't say I'm half way through but at least I'm started on her stained glass Nativity Scenes. A little brighter color with clear lacquer. Each stand has a different width groove plus gluing in a plug on each end so the pine, yuck, don't close up as the seasons and humidity changes. Time it takes to do 130 or so boards is about 15 minutes total time for all pieces....so Howdy Duty will have to wait..
  6. The only problem with me is I can see a few more days grinding on the next thing I start after I said its finished... I changed the way I attached the things to the board! More easier than the epoxy thingy. All my carving stuff is for head on looking. I'll get around to the sides and back if there are enough years left. Baltic Birch for the backer board. I used 100% tung oil to bring out the color and maybe a little extra enhancement also. This wood is exotic as I ever go and it is actually local. The bottom picture is with a flash. The finish is lacquer. Another thing I generally do after the lacquer has dried a couple days is use 0000 steel wool and Johnson't paste wax on all the high spots to give it that old look that has been well kept and in good condition.
  7. Characteristics summary. Remember, pick the characteristics you want and live with the rest of what you get. Product Application Curing Odor Protection Repairability Oil Cloth Slow Some Low 1 Moderate Oil-varnish Cloth Slow Some Some 3 Moderate Varnish Cloth, brush Slow Some High 9 Low Wax Cloth Fast Low Low 0 Moderate Shellac Cloth, brush, Fast Some Moderate 6 High or Spray Lacquer Brush, spray Fast High Moderately high 8 High Waterborne Brush, spray Fast Low Moderately high 8 Moderate -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stain Cloth, brush, Fast to Moderate* n/a n/a or spray* slow* Glaze Cloth, brush Slow Low 0 n/a Toner Spray Fast* Some to high* 5-8 * moderate * depending upon medium
  8. Three things about lacquer: Pros (which is why they are often used in production furniture) + Fast drying, even the slow drying "brushable" lacquers dry in 30 minutes or less + Wide variety of sheens available from flatter than dead flat to high gloss (0 - 85+) and hard enough you can adjust sheens easily with abrasives or polishing compounds + Easy to repair because adding more melts into existing Cons - High odor during application - Not quite as resistant as varnish to chemical damage - solvents and white water rings - Can blush in high humidity application
  9. I had an ornament with a plain look and decided to try dye. The piece had been finished with lacquer . I applied Chestnut stains dye over the lacquer. This dye has shellac about 5% in it. After the dye was dried with heat gun I applied lacquer. Now for the question will this treatment lead to finish failure?
  10. Finally got back on my lathe. When my daughter saw this fruit bowl I had made for my wife, which I posted on back in October, she wanted something similar. This is what I came up with for her. It started out as four pieces of 8/4 poplar. I edge glued two pieces together, then edge glued the other two pieces together, then face glued those two chunks together to make a big blank. I wanted to try my hand at making a bowl that was pretty much at the maximum diameter allowed for my lathe. With that heavy of a blank, I was a little wary of it flying off the chuck. I screwed on a face plate and turned the bottom and the chuck mortise, then mounted it on the chuck, and turned the inside very gently until I had removed some of the weight. Finishing was a coat of Bullseye Sealcoat sanding sealer, followed by a coat of amber shellac, and then three coats of spray lacquer. I haven't given it to her yet; I hope she likes it. I turned it with a combination of Easy Wood Tools, and a traditional 3/8" bowl gouge I purchased from a gentleman on this site. This is my fourth bowl. Thanks for looking.
  11. This came across my feed today. And it's appropriate, I got approached Sunday by a neighbor's son who wanted a gift made for his mom (for Christmas). 1) they are always late for stuff and 2) Mom is a vet and lost her 33 year old horse that she had since teenhood (which was also very stressful for her) and 3) I already had a pretty full week planned. At first he wanted the 5x7 in the center of the horse cutout. Yikes, to scale it up would have made a 22x34" frame with a 5x7 opening. Redesigned. Finished it up right after lunch and second coat of shellac now drying. For last minute finishing, use one of these finishes: Lacquer, Shellac, and Waterborne. https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/christmas?did=203714-20171221&utm_campaign=wood_weeklyupdate_122117&utm_medium=email&utm_source=wdm-newsletter
  12. Today we look at another type of common finish – Lacquer The Product Lacquer became popular right after WWI and was a derivative of the gunpowder manufacturing process (with declining demand). It was deemed to be the perfect finish, at least relative to what was currently available. Typically called “nitrocellulose lacquer” (NC lacquer) it also usually has some other resins added. It's definitely worth adding to your finishing arsenal, especially if you can spray and have good ventilation. The resins are dissolved in a product called lacquer thinner. While it’s called a “thinner” it contains three components · Active solvents (do the brunt of the work dissolving the resins) · Latent solvents (help but are not totally effective by themselves) · Dilutents (thin and add little to no function other than to dilute) There is not a standard formula for lacquer thinner, so it depends on the manufacturer, desired characteristics (faster or slower evaporating, cheaper, etc.) There are over 20 different chemicals that can be mixed to make a lacquer thinner. There are lots of varieties of lacquers from simple lacquers, CAB lacquers, pre-catalyzed, post-catalyzed, auto lacquers, etc. Catalysts help make a stronger finish. Pre-cat is done in the can when you buy it. Post-cat comes in two cans which you add the catalyst just prior to use. Lacquer cures by evaporation of the thinner and will re-dissolve in it. Compare this with varnish that once cured, will not re-dissolve in mineral spirits. As a benefit, when you apply multiple applications of a lacquer, it melts into the lower layers and becomes in essence, one layer. Compare this with a varnish where the layers remain separate. What this also means is that you can apply a coat of lacquer over a clean and sound factory finish and it will bond just fine. It also means if you spill solvent (big culprit is fingernail polish remover, because fingernail polish is often lacquer-based). Lacquers are the most common finish used in production furniture and cabinetry. In over 10,000 pieces I’ve worked on, I can count on one hand those that were not some type of lacquer. Characteristics Lacquers are a fast drying and hard finish. It's easy to complete the finishing in less than a day. Pros: · Very fast drying (good for production work, spray and 30 minutes later package up, also means dust is less of a problem) · Very fast application when spraying, you can finish a piece of furniture in less than a couple of minutes · Drying rate can be controlled by selection of thinners used · Color from perfectly clear (known as “water white”) to amber, depending on resins · Hardness facilitates rubbing out to a high gloss sheen (or any other sheen) · Available in sheens from no sheen to high sheen · Easy to repair (good for manufacturers and delivery companies to correct transit damage) · Easy to strip · Compatible with glazes, fillers, and toners (lacquer with dye or pigment added) Cons · Noxious fumes, especially when spraying Not as much resistance to water and chemicals (acids, alkali, solvents) as varnishes Application Like most finishes, there are three ways to apply lacquers: Spray Since it dries so fast, most lacquers are sprayed. Because of the fumes, ventilation is important. Spray on coats overlapping half as you go. It is not necessary for each coat to fully dry before adding another coat. Air movement will help the evaporation of the solvents. When I’m doing touch up, I frequently use a hair dryer on the cooler setting to accelerate the curing. Lacquers are also commonly available in aerosol cans for small jobs. Brush Most lacquer dry to0 fast to brush. But when slower-drying solvents are used, they are slow enough to brush. Deft Wood Finish and Watco Lacquer are two commonly available brands. Fairly simple to brush, just get it on and don’t keep back going over it. “Slower drying” means 30 minutes, not 5 hours. Clean the brush with lacquer thinner. Cloth There is a “Padding Lacquer” that is designed to be wiped on. I believe it’s largely used for touch up and repair as it does not have much build. And often it’s shellac with a lacquer thinner type solvent. Adjusting sheen Because a lacquer finish is hard, it is easy to adjust a sheen by rubbing with steel wool, Scotch-Brite pads, various abrasive compounds. You can get a see-your-nosehairs high gloss sheen by using successive grits of polishing compounds. Auto compounds that you can find at auto parts stores work well. You can also buff with a lamb's wool buffer and "swirl remover compound" Fixing Goofs Drips and runs are easy to repair. Let them harden, sand or scrape level and apply another application which will dissolve and blend into one coat. Another common problem is blushing. This occurs in hot & humid conditions where the water vapor gets trapped in the finish while the solvents evaporate. You can either wait for a drier day to apply another coat, spray on a slower drying lacquer thinner that is sometimes sold in aerosol cans as “no blush” or “blush eliminator.” Packing marks occur when some packaging (foam, plastic sheet, cardboard) is in contact with the finish before it fully dries. Happens when the factory is a bit too anxious to box it up and send it out. Usually light abrasion and perhaps another light coat will remove the marks and return a good finish. When rubberized pads (such as those on the bottom of clock radios, lamps, etc.)are in contact with lacquer, the chemicals that keep the pad soft and flexible migrate into the finish and do the same there. This is called "plasticizer migration." The cure is to abrade out the damage and re-coat. In severe cases the finish may be damaged down the bare wood. In this case, touch up including restoring the color and layers of lacquer will usually work. Strip and refinish might be needed in extreme cases.
  13. Clewes did not make it so we had our own turning two weeks ago. Finically got thru with the finish work. Dyed with yellow and royal blue in Chestnut stains alcohol base. Back is shellac sealed and then Watco. Rubbed out with Mcguiar's rubbing cod and polishing cod. Then Renaissance wax.
  14. A long time ago, I did this project for a retail customer. Long story short, they gave up this vendor and needed to move the pieces left in stock. Consumer wanted this look, that wasn't one of the options left in inventory.. Applied a couple of coats of white lacquer, then burnt umber glaze, then clear lacquer. I was as glad to be rid of this mfr as the retailer was. Not my tastes, but "whatever." Before During After. White spots across natural stained top are "dusty wax," another of their specialties that caused all sorts of problems. My wife always said it looked like "Insufficient housecleaning," which I guess was the intent. Dusty wax On Off And another job, same mfr, customer wanted the painted highlights on the front of this armoire, what was originally all stained.
  15. This past summer, our town rebuilt the cupola that sets atop “The Old Jailâ€. The Old Jail was built in 1818. It survived the burning of Chambersburg, by the Confederate Army, in 1864. I was fortunate enough to get a piece of an original hand hewn beam from the restoration. Out of that beam, we turned 100 pens; made a couple of presentation boxes and gavel. We had the wood approximately dated from the early 1700’s by a professor at the Pennsylvania State University’s Forestry Department. As you can imagine, the wood was very dry and brittle, but amazingly still smelled strongly of pine when cut. This particular beam had been split open for removing old square cut nails. The nails were then arranged on a display board to be placed in the Jail’s museum. When the carpenters created these beams, each mortise and its’ corresponding tenon were marked with a “carpenter’s mark†so they could be correctly assembled at the site. A carpenter’s mark can be seen on the side of the eam to the left of the peg hole. The marks were most often in Roman Numerals because they were easy to make with a chisel. It is upside down but the mark is “VIâ€. I made an inlay of this mark to help associate the finished piece to the original beam. The gavel and holder The gavel is about 11†long overall and the head is about 3†long and about 2 ½ “ in diameter. Finished with several applications of rattle can lacquer. Thanks for looking!
  16. lew

    completed gavel 2

    From the album: Old Jail Gavel

    gavel made from old jail beam with carpenter's mark inlay
  17. lew

    Completed Gavel 1

    From the album: Old Jail Gavel

    Gavel made from the old jail beam
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