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Showing results for tags 'miter saw'.
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I've been asked several times to do remote demos for one occasion or another. Craft shows, other craft hobby clubs, etc. etc. I actually bought a midi lathe, a Delta 46-460, for that purpose. Well, I fell into a deal on the Delta and I told myself that's why I was buying it. That's been probably at least 3 years ago and I'd just never figured out a good way to transport it and make it quick and easy to set up. The other day I saw a portable miter saw stand and wondered if that would work. Decided to give it a go and bought the "Bauer" version from Harbor Freight. The Bauer line is harbor freight's "middle" quality line of tools. Never thought I would say this but they're not a bad value. Anyway, here is what I came up with, haven't seen a setup like this before but if it's already been done please forgive. Here is the lathe mounted and ready to turn. I wouldn't want to try and turn a full size bowl with this setup but it should be just fine for demoing things like tops, honey dippers, ornaments and finials etc. The stock legs were just too long and made the lathe way too high. I didn't want to cut them off so I bought a length of 1 1/2" EMT conduit and made new legs out of that. I'll paint them black and I found some rubber tips that fit just right for the bottoms. The lathe will slide to either end and lock down and that helps with the weight when loading, setting up, or folding it for transport. I won't say setting it up is a piece of cake but it's certainly manageable. A serendipitous bonus is the slides are long enough to provide a mount for a safety shield or tool tray. Here is the stand folded down and ready for transport. One nice thing is the stand is designed to store vertically and have a pretty small footprint when not set up for use. The band clamp is just there for insurance as I just don't fully trust the cam locks on the slides when it's in a vertical position.
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- delta lathe 46-460
- miter saw
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The latest chapter. (BTW, I had spinal surgery yesterday and "avoid strenuous activity for 6-8 weeks. All my Xmas projects are done, so you might see more of my posts here). Why do people think dowels, dominos, or biscuits are necessary for edge-to-edge glue ups. I can understand some assistance in alignment when needed but there are other ways. Dowels, in particular are fussy with alignment and don't add strength. Dowel joints are not very strong. I read a FWW article years ago about why. Boiled down to two reasons: minimal glue surface, most of which is end grain and differential expansion of wood. I have reglued dozens of chairs where once I removed the corner blocks, the pieces just pull apart. Why is a miter saw on the top list of things for a newbie? Unless you are doing construction or on site work, you can do most anything with a table saw. And it has limited types of cuts it will make. Unless you do a lot with sheet goods or live edge planks, ditto for a track saw. Why do people put so much glue on that there are puddles of it running out once clamped.
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Maybe I'm just a grumpy old guy, but Things I don't really like or want to do * Live edge furniture * Epoxied "river" tables * Flame treated wood, particularly softwoods * Polyurethane on everything * Cedar picket planter boxes Suggested tools for starting out * Miter saw - a table saw will do everything it can * Track saw - does one thing well, but can't do 95% of what a table saw can do, maybe if all you did was plywood * Air nailer, brad gun - you can really get by without this, unless you've watched too much Norm Abram * MFT table - meh While I'm at it, a Domino would be nice, but I can't justify $20 per joint for all the use I'd get out of it. Polyurethane Gorilla Glue -- short shelf life, messy, foams out, ruins clothes, stains flesh, does not gap fill, not easily re-done if it fails
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Well got to do some milling and glueing and clamping this morning! Some Canary wood for some end table for the daughter….now comes the fun part… the sanding lol
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Hey guys…I know I have been kinda MIA but work has been stupid crazy. It has been fun seeing what everyone is doing. I will be upgrading my miter saw. I currently have a 10 inch. Is there a distinct advantage to move to a 12 inch? I have narrowed to the Bosch or Ridgid with articulating arms to save space. Have a great weekend
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OK, so today I listened to my wife and stopped at the new in my area Habitat for Humanity store. Well, I ended out getting a Rockwell 15 inch bench mount drill press (15 090) and a Dewalt 12 inch sliding miter saw. Here is where I am questioning my actions. The drill press runs fine with the exception of the quill return spring. The spring is missing. I did a quick check for one on the net and they want about $65. I'll check again and look for a used one. Other then that it works fine. Keep in mind that I already have 4 others and really don't need one. I only gave a quick look at the Dewalt and decided to buy it. When I got it home I noticed that the cord was not even present. Someone had cut it off right at the rear of the saw. What I originally saw was the rest of the cable as it snaked through the saw. So now I am questioning is it even works. I know it not a big deal to check I can just remove the existing wire and jump it. The saw was not sliding on the rails so I had to adjust and lube (OK, so not problem). I then noticed that the table was just flopping around so I disassembled the saw. What I found is the aluminum casting had been broken at the pivot point and no longer worked. So this requires some studying. I am thinking that I can do a decent repair by turning a piece out of aluminum or brass and make a press fit on one end and a running fit on the other. I will need to set both the table and base on the mill and bore the two pieces to ensure they are clean and perfectly round. I may be able to Lock Tite the upper table section to the new piece as it is pressed in. At least that is what I am thinking right now. I really don't want to spend any unnecessary money on this project. I guess the first thing is to make sure the motor works. This is another project that I really did not need. I already have 3 chop saws, but none are sliding. I have a radial arm, but it is hard to keep in alignment so I don't use this either. Its a good thing that I did not spend a lot of money, $50 total. I just did not need the additional work. I'll let you guys know how I make out. Paul
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Dewalt 12' Sliding Miter Saw Sale
HandyDan posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
I was just down at Lowes to buy some epoxy and they Have a Dewalt 12" dual bevel sliding compound miter saw on sale for $399.00 and get a free stand with it. Seems like a deal if one needs it. -
Sliding Compound Miter Saw Blades
sreilly24590 posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
So as I use my shop more and more I find myself using the Dewalt DWS779 sliding compound miter saw more and more for cutting my wood down to finished sizes. A prime example is while building the workshop stands and needing to cut the maple boards to finished length. What is questionable is the quality of cut the blade is giving. What is a good blade to use that's reasonable in price and quality to use on this 12" saw? I've been looking at a zero clearance plate for this saw as well to help. Suggestions? -
took a couple of pictures of this saw and miter box - still in the previous owner-built box. didn't see any marks on saw blade and the whole thing appears to be in fairly decent condition. have not priced and put on floor yet at the restore. someone will get a deal i suspect.
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I have plans to build a miter saw station, but it's pretty far down on the list. Anyone have one of these and/or comment on suitability? Not sure I could build one for $99 unless I get a lot of free material somewhere. https://www.ruralking.com/universal-miter-saw-stand.html?utm_medium=email&utm_source=2017-06-24+Product+Spotlight&utm_campaign=34450013&utm_contnet=34450013&_bta_tid=40394734835476410414092769078826458601265630212476166980842161197823536953237897877835910512335843805801
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Part of the new shop build is going to be a better miter saw station. Dust collection always seems to be a problem with these guys (I guess Festool might the the exception, but I'm not spending as much on a miter saw as I did on my Unisaw) Anyway, I did steal a Festool idea. They have a little rubber(?) flap that channels the chips from the saw blade into the blade cover / vac chute. My Hitatchi saw didn't have one of these. I did have a little plastic piece that broke off very early. So I fashioned a chip director from duct tape. Seems to improve things a bit . A second thing was to get a $20 shop vac on sale at Menards, hook it up to a master-slave switch so it comes on when I pull the trigger on the saw and runs 3-4 seconds after I turn it off. I have a poor-man's dust hood (moving box) that is just so-so and hope to build a better one with the miter station. Anyone else have a clever solution? It's currently close enough to the dust collector to run another 4" line to it, somehow.
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Saw Blades, Radial Arm, Table Saw, Miter Saw (What's the Difference?)
John Morris posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Dad is coming down this morning to pick up some saw blades for his Radial Arm Saw. I have some 10" blades sitting around that I have not used in a while, and he needs them. As I was sorting through my blades, and picking out some that would work well on his RAS, I was thinking what a neat subject this would make here in our community. I am not going to get into the differences between the blades and submit my knowledge of the differences, I wanted you all to contribute your own knowledge on the subject, meanwhile also staying away from linking to outside articles on the subject if you will. I would love to see the opinions and knowledge of our contributors here, for others who may happen onto our woodworking community, to benefit from and read up on. So, what is the difference between the various types of blades for our Radial Arm Saws, Miter Saws, and Table Saws, and even the hand held Cabinet or Wormdrive Saws? Why would you use one blade over the other? Why do these blades have different rakes? Why does tooth count matter? Thanks everyone for your contributions to this subject, please submit supporting images too if you like, but again, try to stay away from linking to outside sources, lets make this our own topic of knowledge on the subject! -
In this video I share how I cut small parts on the miter saw. I am sure this one will be cause for active commentary from the safety police and maybe the hand tool junkies for not using a fancy hand saw to cut small pieces. Well, this is the way I do it in the American Craftsman Workshop. Because if the tool doesn't make any noise and throw a rooster tail of sawdust, how am I supposed to know that any work is getting done? Hope you enjoy the video and find it helpful;) Remember to let your work be your signature. Your friend in the shop, Todd A. Clippinger Share the Love - Share the Knowledge
