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Found 16 results

  1. I’m about to step into uncharted territory. The local fire chief paid me a visit today with a job. Last year, one of the volunteer firefighters built an 8 foot table for the station and applied a poured 2 part epoxy finish on it. His plan was to let the epoxy cure for a year and then polish it. Unfortunately, he died suddenly before he could complete the project. I’ve been asked to polish the top but have never done so. Any of you folks ever tackled such a project? If so, what’s the process? Inquiring minds want to know.
  2. Saw this elsewhere but thought it worth sharing. Too much You-tube video drama IMO, but the guy is talented and the "build" creation was interesting.
  3. Hello, I am to the stage of finishing the kitchen cabinets I have been making for my sister ski condo. In the first time in my woodworking life, I have purposefully attempted to contain as many knots in the wood to make it rustic. The wood I have used to make them is rustic hickory. I need to fill most of the knots before I can finish with a clear coat. I have seen some YouTube videos of filling gaps with black tinted epoxy. This is what I know; you put tape on the back of the board to keep the epoxy in the gap and mix up black epoxy and pore it in the knots or gaps. Has anyone out there done this? I need some pointers where to get the epoxy and the black colorant. Best regards, Ron
  4. Building a river table for a gun shop/range’s customer lounge. In my frame I laid wax paper down over my mdf base in an attempt to save the surface of the mdf. That part worked out, but it appears that then resin heated up enough to melt the wax in the paper and then fuse together laminating together to make a super flexible and hard to break sheet. Next time I’ll just tape my mdf and move on.
  5. This is a great video showing the beauty of turned shavings. It is also a great video to show the mess created when turning epoxy and acrylics.
  6. Greetings all. Quick question here ( I hope). I am building a butcher block rolling island for my daughter (which many of you helped me with in the design stage). During the thickness planing stage on the butcher block top, I got a couple small tear out spots which are too deep to sand out. I was thinking that I could fill the depressions with some epoxy. I have never had to use epoxy and am looking for any suggestions any of you may have as to any preferences you may have. Don't need more than a tablespoon so no large quantity needed. And will epoxy take mineral oil "finish" ok? Thoughts? And as always, thank you in advance for any assistance. Gary
  7. So, I finally have a jig saw, an angle grinder, some mica powder (for epoxy resin), I found a local wood shop for things I need done that I can't do myself (planing an uneven slab, etc)... I feel like a kid turned loose in a candy store LOL I ordered the wood carving bits for the angle grinder (not the $145 Arbortech that I had been looking at), more jig blades... I feel like I'm about to get myself into LOTS of trouble LOL I'm probably going to go get the 2x4's that I need to make that wavy flag, get the shop to plane them to the same width (on the 4" side), and to level one side (2" side) to have a squared bottom edge to start with. OMG I am so excited and ready to start tearing into some wood LOL Granted, getting them sold will be another issue until the fest season begins around here again. So... What are your woodworking plans for the new year? (I can't promise I won't borrow your inspirations lol)
  8. Howdy yall,been awhile since I have been alot has happened,Lost my Father this June,but had a great Military service for him,,I have been doin some work in the shop,added a new edition to it but still need more room lol,have been making a few things,will post them,am trying the Pallet road right now,hoping yall will like them
  9. shawnbrad

    block table

    From the album: my furniture

    eucalyptus block end table
  10. I've been making pens lately, and up to now, no real problems. The last three blanks I tried to square up the blank ends with the brass tubes, the tubes come back out of the blanks. I'm using a barrel trimming kit from PSI. The first blank this happened to me on, I glued the tube in with medium CA super glue. The next two, I used 5 minute epoxy. Both times, I let the items set for several hours before trying to square things up. I have a couple of theories. 1. I am trying to use stabilized maple burl blanks from PSI. Is it possible that the hardened maple blanks are drilling too smooth to grab the glue or epoxy? The pens I have made up to now have been with regular hardwood blanks, not stabilized or anything like that, and I haven't had these problems. 2. As per instructions, I am roughing up the outside of the brass tubes with some sandpaper. Maybe I am too aggressive with the sandpaper and taking too much off the tubes. Any thoughts?
  11. I got some ideas about using 5 minute epoxy and glitter. I made some mistakes, but learned a lot in the process. You can see the upper ring. It looked really good until I tried something else to smooth it. I think I am going to try again, I have a couple more things I want to try
  12. This video isn't the most scientific and mixing proper amounts properly factors in, there is one clear winner
  13. Gene Howe

    Oyster Box

    From the album: Gene's Stuff

    Sagebrush rounds, or oysters were glued to 1/2" plywood and leveled with a router jig. Voids between the rounds were filled with turquoise and epoxy.
  14. As many of you may know, I have pretty much sworn off stain and like to use dye instead. The down side of dye is that wood fillers don't take dyes well so you really have to make sure you have tight joints. Late last week I was building a couple of flag cases (one cherry and one poplar) and I had a 45 degree miter that wasn't as tight as I liked so I've fretted and stewed all weekend about how to filler the slight crack. After some experimentation, I finally mixed a little dry aniline dye granules with some 2 part epoxy. The epoxy took the dye well. I sanded the case to 240 grit and misted it with water to raise the grain and then hit it with 400. Then I mixed the epoxy and filled the crack. After a couple of hours, I resanded it with 400, re-wet the case and put 2 coats of W.D. Lockwood dye on it. I liked the way it filled and it is invisible. I'm now a believer. Before After
  15. Gene Howe

    Oyster Box Lid

    From the album: Gene's Stuff

    Solid mesquite lid. Voids filled with Turquoise and epoxy.
  16. Gene Howe

    Oyster Box

    From the album: Gene's Stuff

    Sagebrush rounds, or oysters were glued to 1/2" plywood and leveled with a router jig. Voids between the rounds were filled with turquoise and epoxy.
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