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Found 25 results

  1. Ok so I was able to get ahold of an anemometer over the weekend and did some readings. However the problem I have now is when I select the CFM mode on the anemometer it gave me the readings in thousands not the hundreds. So what do I need to do with this number to get my true CFM reading?
  2. There are still a few days remaining to help with our Wounded Warrior Family Adoption project. If you haven't made your donation, yet, please see this link- https://thepatriotwoodworker.com/forums/topic/27849-the-patriot-woodworkers-with-operation-ward-57-adopt-a-wounded-warrior-family-for-the-holidays-2019 Been thinking that maybe I might get started on Christmas shopping, next week...maybe... Our Patriot Turners- Our members have been really active this week. Lots pf projects and comments- @Ron Altier has been working on ornaments. He posted three of his latests creations- Ron's post has more details on how these were made- Unfortunately for Ron, not all the attempts turned out as he expected. One of his acrylic pieces didn't hold up- He received some interesting comments and suggestions to his post about this failure- One of the comments was from @Woodbutcherbynight who suggested he might try Corian materials and posted some of his fantastic pens that use that material- @Woodbutcherbynight also showed us some of the fan pulls he is making. The little beauties are really something! Here's his post on them- Gunny is the big winner this week with the most posts! He turned beautiful segmented bases for wine and champagne glasses. You can see how he did the glue-ups and turning in his posts- This shows his clamping jig- We have a revival of an older post. Back in the summer @John Morris asked if any of our members were familiar with the Ringmaster turning device. At that time he received a bunch of input. Some of our newer members recently discovered the post and have added to it. Check it out and see what's new! @Pauley asked for help and ideas on dust collection. Seems he is turning Bubinga and needed some advice on how to handle the dust and chips. Please head on over to his post and see if you can give him some ideas- @Gerald is holding us in suspense waiting to see the item he creates from a piece of Azobe wood. He was gifted the wood from a turner friend. Check this topic to see more about the wood! What’s Coming Up- This weeks club- http://www.lasvegaswoodturners.com/ For The Newbies- AS your turning experiences expand from spindle work to bowls and hollow vessels, it becomes necessary to be able to gauge the thickness of the walls of your turnings. Some turnings, i.e. shallow bowls, you can use your fingers to determine the thickness. But, as the depth increases, differents tools have to be used. Here is a video, from Sam Angelo, on making wall thickness gauges- Expand Your Horizons- Photographing your turnings can be challenging and frustrating. Member @Gerald has an excellent blog on photography and you can check it out at- I recently came across a video from Mike Peace on this subject. He shows us some of the shop made items we can use to help make our photos a little better. Also, Rick Turns has his November You Tube video listing available- New Turning Items- Woodturners Wonders has a sale on their Wonder Weave sanding discs https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/specials Everything Else- The latest edition of the Woodturning OnLine newsletter arrived. There is a link to a really great article on vacuum chuck systems. https://www.woodturningonline.com/ When I turn a utilitarian bowl, I usually use a recess for the jaws- just the way I learned and I find the bottom foot is a little larger. However, the recess makes it more difficult to judge the thickness of the bottom. While looking at Sam Angelo's wall thickness gauges, I found a video he posted on a nice, shop made jig that accurately measures the bottom thickness on recess and tenon methods. My version mimics his with only minor additions- The fixed headstock spacer- The movable depth indicator- Calibrating the fixed spacer- The end of the spacer is set to be on the same plane as the end of the chuck/jaws being used Calibrating the movable depth indicator- The threaded rod is adjusted to be on the same plane as the base of the movable portion- When correctly calibrated, the depth rod will touch the jaw surface when the bottom sliding part touches the fixed part. To use, position the threaded rod against the bottom of the turning. Observe the space between the fix and sliding parts of the jig. The distance is the thickness of the bottom of the turning. Here is Mr. Angelo's video- Safe turning
  3. I know that Radial Arm saws are not in favor these days , but what can I say I cut my teeth on these saws and have my old Craftsman set up for cross cutting. I use it for just that purpose, no angles or ripping. The saw is known for making lots of saw dust and it piles up in the most inconvenient place, behind the saw. I rigged up a dust collection box behind the blade that the blade is buried in when not in use. The dust collector 6" duct is attached to the top of the box, the front of the box is the fence. Then I made a ZC insert for the blade that slides in and out of the table to the front with a dado under where the saw blade cuts that extends back to the DC box. This system works 98% to remove the saw dust, and the ZC is replaceable. Herb
  4. I planned this out and put it together a couple years ago, it has a Thein style dust plate inside the seperator drum. I'm extremely happy, and proud of this project.
  5. Ok finally got a little time to continue. First lets talk about blast gates and routing boxes. I made these from plans in either Wood magazine or Shop Notes but did not write the issue on it. This gate is for individual tools or can be mounted in the duct . Basically this one is ply for sides and 1/8 masonite scrap for the blade. The plastic PVC connector is a piece of thinwall with about 1/2 inch cut out and then use PVC glue. This will allow the 4 inch flex to be attached.This could be bypassed with plastic ports but that would cost more than buying a complete plastic blast gate. For the inline mount the blade goes completely thru with a bit of ply on either side to block the slot when the gate is open or closed. This is a plastic gate I found recently with a threaded ends to attach flex. This schematic shows you a better way to build with laminate to make opening easier allow for a tighter fit. This is a distribution box made on the same principle as the gates with the gates either mounted to the box or as part of the box (ends). Below is the same box on top of the cyclone with many more ports. THIS is the box I made for the lathe. Hose was experimented with and works best from the back straight in. This tool presents dust control problems. The hood at the back has been enlarged since this photo. What you cannot see is there is a box under the saw, since most CMS have opening at the bottom. The space at the bottom of the saw is sealed with pipe insulation. There is also a hose for the saws own collection out of sight feeding into the box. All this is feed to the PVC on the right. Now there is a upgrade you can make to your dust collector. Jet came out with a Vortex system to enhance the amount of flow of dust into the bottom bag instead of into the upper bag or canister filter. This keeps the upper cleaner longer and allows greater collection due to less blockage build up.The article below will show you how to do it and on that page are a few more tips. Dust Collector WOK If you have questions I am always around.
  6. Planning on adding a Oneida Dust Deputy to my DC system. Looking at the 4 inch at $210 or the 5 inch at $219. This will be on the shop floor and the DC is in the attic. Hopefully I will never havr to empty the attic bag again. The question is how bog of a difference will the 5 inch make ? And does anyone have experience with these larger units? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BEXBWS6/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y37FF9D/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
  7. I searched the site for ideas for dust collection on my compound miter saw station. I started work on a bandsaw blade storage rack yesterday and used the cms for the first time in a good while. It's a barely used Dewalt model DWS780 12 In. Double Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw, barely used because of the mess it was making and waiting on me to remedy the situation. My first inclination was to use the miter gauge and table saw but realized how ridiculous that was when I had a perfectly good tool well suited for the job right behind me. The table saw could do the job but not as safely or quickly as I needed angle cuts on small pieces. Anyway I've pondered this subject for some time and need to do something right or wrong. A bit of info, I have a 6" DC line at the station from the ceiling. My thought was that the sawdust would be collected from the top but now I think that's wrong. Gravity wins in all these cases. While the sawdust may be airborne for a short while it always falls to the base. While constructing a sanding box it dawned on me that maybe that's what I needed fro the miter station but on the top or bottom? Maybe both? I have that 6" DC pipe above and a dual 4" blastgate to run 2 separate 4" lines just like I did for my router table (fence and router enclosure) which works extremely well. On the miter station hood I have tapered the walls to allow full range of the saw but restricting the volume. The real question now is how to use the utilise those two 4" lines? Initially I was going to go from the top with a drop at each side but away from the corners. The problem with testing this is once you cut the holes there are there some testing is a bit of a problem. The hood is on top of course and the bottom of the cabinet is open at this point. The saw sits on the base that has 3/4" plywood and 3/4" MDF. I may have to install some stretchers as I think the width is 34". I have access from top and bottom and a 4" piece of PVC can fit behind the unit as it's 5-1/2" off the wall. I'd have to cut a square access in the back and then make a cover to clean it up after the pipe/hose is run. There's no way I'm moving that 16' station even with 2 people without disconnecting each piece. They are basically 4 base cabinets attached to each other with a wider mid cabinet for the saw. The opening in the hood for the saw has some heavier plastic cut into strips like the warehouses use as door curtains and solid panels where movement wouldn't restrict it to contain the sawdust while being flexible to allow the saw to be positioned as needed. So do we have any air dynamics experts here to solve the puzzle or for that matter anyone who has beat this beast? The DC is a CV1800 with a 16" steel impeller and a 5 HP motor. The installed unit is shown here and the next 2 pages. So for as much clarity as I can achieve I've uploaded another page on the miter saw station. Somewhere I may have stated it was 16' but in actuality it's 10'4" overall. Not sure where the 16' was, maybe the last fish I caught.... Anyway the miter station page is here Any suggestions would certainly be welcomed,thanks. -Steve
  8. Was discussing Dust Collection in the shop with a customer and he asked me something I had never really considered. Wanted to know why DC motors are direct drive and not a belt and pulley system. Went on about less effort by the motor to turn a smaller pulley and more power from the belt driving a larger pulley. Not really something I have ever seen or researched but anyone have a reason why?
  9. Having done a dry fit I took it all back apart and spent a few evenings painting, or staining and some urethane for a finish. Reassembled and reinstalled finished product. This gives me a much needed run to the bench from an existing outlet for the bandsaw. Even added a future outlet for a potential 10 inch bandsaw if I ever come across one reasonable priced. Free is always better but that has not materialized as of this evening. While I could have just left the PVC white and called it a day I had a friend that has a drainpipe in a cubby hole. His wife wanted to add a shelf and was curious could this be done and if so could it be made so it did not look like a sewer line. I suggested a shelf with supports and then paint the PVC a color that blended with the stained wood. As a demo of what this would look like I did mine in this way. They looked at the pics and agreed this was the way to go. This is not glued together, I painted the entire surface, this gives adequate seal. To test it I hooked up a fog machine and smoked the entire thing then went and checked for leaks. As expected the valves leak a small amount, I expected that. This stuff is from a Rigid kit I bought from the borg years ago. Not exactly high quality but it does work. For those curious about the picture frame see the last picture. It hides the water separator/ regulator and main shut off valve for the shop compressed air. My solution to not having it out where it can be damaged. I have several outlets in various places through out the shop with the only thing exposed being the hook up valve. Also have on in the eave of my carport for those times I need to air up a tire or work on a vehicle. Would have preferred to have 4 inch pipe for the entire set-up bit the lay of the shop just would not accommodate that. You work with what I have, not what you wish for my Grandfather would often tell me. Sage advice. While this is overkill, I enjoy the craft. Making something from scraps or almost nothing. Doesn't matter to me if it is for the shop or for something in the house the creative process is what I enjoy. Nothing is more satisfying than finishing a project, shop or otherwise and having a drink and admiring the work. Enjoy and be inspired.
  10. What started out as a upgrade to my 12 inch sander spiraled off course and took me here. Plumbed the Dust collection from closest stub down the wall, across the other wall, then finally along the back wall to meet the sander. As with any project I had to make sacrifices. Hardest one here was using a short 90 degree bend around the corner. Normally long sweeps only is the rule of thumb. That works great, most of the time. I tried using a longer sweep but it brought the line of pipe out too far and that interfered with something else, that also would have forced me to move something else. Basically I need 10,000 sq ft shop and the problem is solved. In the meantime this works, and I have not won the lottery or had a relative leave me a mint so we are stuck with it for the moment. LOL
  11. Got this 12 inch Grizzly a few years ago. At the time I did not have Dust Collection piped to where I put it. So I improvised and used a short hose and a bucket. it worked, not well but was better than dust everywhere. Finally got around to upgrading this bench and gave myself a few goals. I mounted the sander to a plate that locks in at the back to the bench. Just in case I need to move it, it will happen people. Then I decided I needed dust collection done right. The saw points the wrong way for the outlet so I had to get creative to reverse directions. Another goal was to store the sandpaper disc on the unit. I put that behind the sander. Cut a circle from 1/4 inch ply and stacked 3 old 10 inch sawblades for weight. Ran a bolt through it all and a knob on top. To remove paper pull knob and there you go. Not liking the white PVC I painted it black. Not needed but it has a finished almost factory look to it so hey it's classy okay? Got it all done and hooked up a 6 ft hose from the nearest DC outlet I had. yeah it worked but I said to myself, you can and need to do better. So I began the next stage which pipes all the way to the wall with a extra outlet and a shelf. That part is not done yet, but soon enough. Enjoy and be inspired.
  12. A couple of weeks ago, my 22 year old shop vac bit the bullet. So I put a new one on my Xmas list. So now it's sitting in the box in the basement. In the mean time, I've routed a lot of rabbets and done a fair amount of sanding. So I have piles of sawdust all over the floor (I have been sweeping them out of the traffic flow) and getting a lot of sanding dust into the air. I mentioned this to the wife this afternoon and she said, "Go ahead and open it. I'm not going to wrap it and I am not going to haul it upstairs, just to have to haul it back downstairs." I love her. I think that's my first in-shop task tomorrow morning.
  13. In my opinion some the open stand 6 inch jointers such as the Delta JT360, Jet JJ-6OS, General International 80-075L, Steelex ST1001, CraftexCT086, King CanadaKC-150, and probably a couple other brands that I may have missed, which all basically have the same type of open stand and dust collection setup where the dust port is directed very close to the floor of the dust chute, more then likely causing some air flow resistance and lowering CFM before it reaches the cutter head area. I feel that the port should be pointed in the direction of the chute's flow to be efficient. I had a JET JJ-6OS, and this is what I came up with for a more efficient dust hood.
  14. Just perusing the net this morning before work, and I stumbled across this vacuum hose reel. Of course we could make our own, but to see the pro model demoed is fun. Here is their website: Fast Cap Super Reel I have no horse in the game, just showing and telling.
  15. Any commerical solutions that work at low cost for dust collection of my sliding miter saw. Also what are your homemade and proven dust collection for a miter saw solutions.
  16. Hello, I know that I am not the first to have this issue. I just got a Dust Deputy Deluxe Cyclone Separator Kit as a gift and have been putting it together. I have a Fein Woodworking vacuum that I want to attach it to and it seems that I need an adapter to connect it to the dust deputy. I contacted Onieda air and they gave me a link to a company that makes plumbing accessories. An email to them resulted in no reply. Has anybody else out there faced this problem? If so, how did you do it? Best to all Ron
  17. I am in the Market for a dust collector. I need 785 CFM for my Thickness Planar. 6" main line, 4" drops 2 x 2 1/2 drops (router and Chop saw) Will only use 3' of flex near tool then transition to rigid back to the dust collector. Static loss around 3" 1. Priority low noise. 1A. Hepa or 1 mciron. 2. Priority Cyclone separator 3 Priority must fit in 8' floor to ceiling. 4. Yes I only use one tool at a time now but if this build goes well I may have friends over running 2 to 3 devices. Total CFM then ~1500 CFM. 5. Blast gates will be used and two 4" must be open to properly supply the 6" main. 6. Floor sweep will remain open most always unless multiple machines are in operation. So far Jet Looks reasonable what do you think? http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jcdc-2-cyclone-dust-collector-2hp-230v/717520 no CFM rating on this machine. Any experience with this machine? Any used ones or similar out there?
  18. It beats me why guys get so hung up on bags, filters, micron count etc. Vent it out side and forget about it. I use a HF with a 35 gal. Trash can and a cheap plastic cyclone lid as a seperator. Only miniscule amounts of dust accumulates outside. If that's a problem, it's easy enough to direct it into a suitable receptacle outside. It freed up beaucoup space, no bags to empty and, I think the air flow is better. But I'm not anal about that either. Rant over.
  19. I'm planning on a new TS, and wanted to clean up my exhaust system first. I have a small Dust Collector (Griz 1 HP), so I wanted to make the most of it. I have two "runs" of duct; the long one to the TS is about 18'; I originally used all 4" flex duct (with the spiral wire). It did OK. I had a kluge connection at the DC, with a Tee connector; I knew the Tee was hurtful. In the end, I put in a 10' section of 4" ABS, with two formed 45's, replaced the Tee with a Wye. I did the calcs on duct loss and flow change, and was a bit disappointed that the volume would only increase by 10%. The actual performance seemed more than that; then I realized that dust collection works by the SQUARE of the air flow change (the force on a particle is proportional to the square of the air velocity). So, 1.1 x 1.1 = 1.21: I actually was getting 20% better dust collection, and the performance I observed was consistent with that. So, swapping 10' of ABS for flex made a very nice difference. Along the way, I did some checking on fan inlet effects of duct. If you connect an elbow right at the fan inlet, you lose about 2.4" pressure (most DC's run about 5--6"); if you put a 6" straight piece at the fan inlet, then elbow, the loss is only 1.6". Using formed smooth elbows near the fan can really help a lot, too; bended flex has very high loss. If your DC has a wye connector at the fan inlet, put in 6" of straight duct between the wye and fan. The wye will give unbalanced air flow, and the fan hates that.
  20. Woodcraft has a special sale for today only! $39.99 great deal for the small shop!!!
  21. lew

    Over Head Circulator

    From the album: Dust Stuff

    above lathe- large particle filter installed

    © Lewis Kauffman

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