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Found 16 results

  1. Woodbutcherbynight

    DC question

    Was discussing Dust Collection in the shop with a customer and he asked me something I had never really considered. Wanted to know why DC motors are direct drive and not a belt and pulley system. Went on about less effort by the motor to turn a smaller pulley and more power from the belt driving a larger pulley. Not really something I have ever seen or researched but anyone have a reason why?
  2. Woodbutcherbynight

    DC upgrade, classy even!

    Having done a dry fit I took it all back apart and spent a few evenings painting, or staining and some urethane for a finish. Reassembled and reinstalled finished product. This gives me a much needed run to the bench from an existing outlet for the bandsaw. Even added a future outlet for a potential 10 inch bandsaw if I ever come across one reasonable priced. Free is always better but that has not materialized as of this evening. While I could have just left the PVC white and called it a day I had a friend that has a drainpipe in a cubby hole. His wife wanted to add a shelf and was curious could this be done and if so could it be made so it did not look like a sewer line. I suggested a shelf with supports and then paint the PVC a color that blended with the stained wood. As a demo of what this would look like I did mine in this way. They looked at the pics and agreed this was the way to go. This is not glued together, I painted the entire surface, this gives adequate seal. To test it I hooked up a fog machine and smoked the entire thing then went and checked for leaks. As expected the valves leak a small amount, I expected that. This stuff is from a Rigid kit I bought from the borg years ago. Not exactly high quality but it does work. For those curious about the picture frame see the last picture. It hides the water separator/ regulator and main shut off valve for the shop compressed air. My solution to not having it out where it can be damaged. I have several outlets in various places through out the shop with the only thing exposed being the hook up valve. Also have on in the eave of my carport for those times I need to air up a tire or work on a vehicle. Would have preferred to have 4 inch pipe for the entire set-up bit the lay of the shop just would not accommodate that. You work with what I have, not what you wish for my Grandfather would often tell me. Sage advice. While this is overkill, I enjoy the craft. Making something from scraps or almost nothing. Doesn't matter to me if it is for the shop or for something in the house the creative process is what I enjoy. Nothing is more satisfying than finishing a project, shop or otherwise and having a drink and admiring the work. Enjoy and be inspired.
  3. Woodbutcherbynight

    Dust Collection Expansion

    What started out as a upgrade to my 12 inch sander spiraled off course and took me here. Plumbed the Dust collection from closest stub down the wall, across the other wall, then finally along the back wall to meet the sander. As with any project I had to make sacrifices. Hardest one here was using a short 90 degree bend around the corner. Normally long sweeps only is the rule of thumb. That works great, most of the time. I tried using a longer sweep but it brought the line of pipe out too far and that interfered with something else, that also would have forced me to move something else. Basically I need 10,000 sq ft shop and the problem is solved. In the meantime this works, and I have not won the lottery or had a relative leave me a mint so we are stuck with it for the moment. LOL
  4. Woodbutcherbynight

    12 inch Sander upgrade

    Got this 12 inch Grizzly a few years ago. At the time I did not have Dust Collection piped to where I put it. So I improvised and used a short hose and a bucket. it worked, not well but was better than dust everywhere. Finally got around to upgrading this bench and gave myself a few goals. I mounted the sander to a plate that locks in at the back to the bench. Just in case I need to move it, it will happen people. Then I decided I needed dust collection done right. The saw points the wrong way for the outlet so I had to get creative to reverse directions. Another goal was to store the sandpaper disc on the unit. I put that behind the sander. Cut a circle from 1/4 inch ply and stacked 3 old 10 inch sawblades for weight. Ran a bolt through it all and a knob on top. To remove paper pull knob and there you go. Not liking the white PVC I painted it black. Not needed but it has a finished almost factory look to it so hey it's classy okay? Got it all done and hooked up a 6 ft hose from the nearest DC outlet I had. yeah it worked but I said to myself, you can and need to do better. So I began the next stage which pipes all the way to the wall with a extra outlet and a shelf. That part is not done yet, but soon enough. Enjoy and be inspired.
  5. A couple of weeks ago, my 22 year old shop vac bit the bullet. So I put a new one on my Xmas list. So now it's sitting in the box in the basement. In the mean time, I've routed a lot of rabbets and done a fair amount of sanding. So I have piles of sawdust all over the floor (I have been sweeping them out of the traffic flow) and getting a lot of sanding dust into the air. I mentioned this to the wife this afternoon and she said, "Go ahead and open it. I'm not going to wrap it and I am not going to haul it upstairs, just to have to haul it back downstairs." I love her. I think that's my first in-shop task tomorrow morning.
  6. In my opinion some the open stand 6 inch jointers such as the Delta JT360, Jet JJ-6OS, General International 80-075L, Steelex ST1001, CraftexCT086, King CanadaKC-150, and probably a couple other brands that I may have missed, which all basically have the same type of open stand and dust collection setup where the dust port is directed very close to the floor of the dust chute, more then likely causing some air flow resistance and lowering CFM before it reaches the cutter head area. I feel that the port should be pointed in the direction of the chute's flow to be efficient. I had a JET JJ-6OS, and this is what I came up with for a more efficient dust hood.
  7. Just perusing the net this morning before work, and I stumbled across this vacuum hose reel. Of course we could make our own, but to see the pro model demoed is fun. Here is their website: Fast Cap Super Reel I have no horse in the game, just showing and telling.
  8. Any commerical solutions that work at low cost for dust collection of my sliding miter saw. Also what are your homemade and proven dust collection for a miter saw solutions.
  9. Hello, I know that I am not the first to have this issue. I just got a Dust Deputy Deluxe Cyclone Separator Kit as a gift and have been putting it together. I have a Fein Woodworking vacuum that I want to attach it to and it seems that I need an adapter to connect it to the dust deputy. I contacted Onieda air and they gave me a link to a company that makes plumbing accessories. An email to them resulted in no reply. Has anybody else out there faced this problem? If so, how did you do it? Best to all Ron
  10. I am in the Market for a dust collector. I need 785 CFM for my Thickness Planar. 6" main line, 4" drops 2 x 2 1/2 drops (router and Chop saw) Will only use 3' of flex near tool then transition to rigid back to the dust collector. Static loss around 3" 1. Priority low noise. 1A. Hepa or 1 mciron. 2. Priority Cyclone separator 3 Priority must fit in 8' floor to ceiling. 4. Yes I only use one tool at a time now but if this build goes well I may have friends over running 2 to 3 devices. Total CFM then ~1500 CFM. 5. Blast gates will be used and two 4" must be open to properly supply the 6" main. 6. Floor sweep will remain open most always unless multiple machines are in operation. So far Jet Looks reasonable what do you think? http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jcdc-2-cyclone-dust-collector-2hp-230v/717520 no CFM rating on this machine. Any experience with this machine? Any used ones or similar out there?
  11. Gene Howe

    A DC rant

    It beats me why guys get so hung up on bags, filters, micron count etc. Vent it out side and forget about it. I use a HF with a 35 gal. Trash can and a cheap plastic cyclone lid as a seperator. Only miniscule amounts of dust accumulates outside. If that's a problem, it's easy enough to direct it into a suitable receptacle outside. It freed up beaucoup space, no bags to empty and, I think the air flow is better. But I'm not anal about that either. Rant over.
  12. PeteM

    It sucks

    I'm planning on a new TS, and wanted to clean up my exhaust system first. I have a small Dust Collector (Griz 1 HP), so I wanted to make the most of it. I have two "runs" of duct; the long one to the TS is about 18'; I originally used all 4" flex duct (with the spiral wire). It did OK. I had a kluge connection at the DC, with a Tee connector; I knew the Tee was hurtful. In the end, I put in a 10' section of 4" ABS, with two formed 45's, replaced the Tee with a Wye. I did the calcs on duct loss and flow change, and was a bit disappointed that the volume would only increase by 10%. The actual performance seemed more than that; then I realized that dust collection works by the SQUARE of the air flow change (the force on a particle is proportional to the square of the air velocity). So, 1.1 x 1.1 = 1.21: I actually was getting 20% better dust collection, and the performance I observed was consistent with that. So, swapping 10' of ABS for flex made a very nice difference. Along the way, I did some checking on fan inlet effects of duct. If you connect an elbow right at the fan inlet, you lose about 2.4" pressure (most DC's run about 5--6"); if you put a 6" straight piece at the fan inlet, then elbow, the loss is only 1.6". Using formed smooth elbows near the fan can really help a lot, too; bended flex has very high loss. If your DC has a wye connector at the fan inlet, put in 6" of straight duct between the wye and fan. The wye will give unbalanced air flow, and the fan hates that.
  13. Part of the new shop build is going to be a better miter saw station. Dust collection always seems to be a problem with these guys (I guess Festool might the the exception, but I'm not spending as much on a miter saw as I did on my Unisaw) Anyway, I did steal a Festool idea. They have a little rubber(?) flap that channels the chips from the saw blade into the blade cover / vac chute. My Hitatchi saw didn't have one of these. I did have a little plastic piece that broke off very early. So I fashioned a chip director from duct tape. Seems to improve things a bit . A second thing was to get a $20 shop vac on sale at Menards, hook it up to a master-slave switch so it comes on when I pull the trigger on the saw and runs 3-4 seconds after I turn it off. I have a poor-man's dust hood (moving box) that is just so-so and hope to build a better one with the miter station. Anyone else have a clever solution? It's currently close enough to the dust collector to run another 4" line to it, somehow.
  14. Woodcraft has a special sale for today only! $39.99 great deal for the small shop!!!
  15. lew

    Over Head Circulator

    From the album: Dust Stuff

    above lathe- large particle filter installed

    © Lewis Kauffman

  16. Our supporter Woodcraft is having a great sale on Laguna Machinery right now. In order to see some great deals, please click on the banner below. And remember, when you purchase from Woodcraft, our community receives a 10 percent commission! Thank you for your support in advance.

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