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Found 11 results

  1. So as I use my shop more and more I find myself using the Dewalt DWS779 sliding compound miter saw more and more for cutting my wood down to finished sizes. A prime example is while building the workshop stands and needing to cut the maple boards to finished length. What is questionable is the quality of cut the blade is giving. What is a good blade to use that's reasonable in price and quality to use on this 12" saw? I've been looking at a zero clearance plate for this saw as well to help. Suggestions?
  2. I read that some of the replacement blades for the Veritas spokeshaves were no longer available. I emailed Lee Valley about this. I see that some of the Veritas spokeshave blades are no longer available, including directly from Veritas. Is Lee Valley going to discontinue this line, or are you going to continue providing the PM-V11 as replacement blades? This is their reply: Thank you for your e-mail. We were advised Veritas® was discontinuing their A2 and O1 steel blades for their spokeshaves but the PM-V11® blades would and are still being produced for them. As such, we have discontinued the A2 and O1 versions of the spokeshaves and won’t be getting any more of these in stock once we sell out of what we still have available. Just information for everyone.
  3. So here's the lodown. I bought a new Laguna 1412 bandsaw maybe a year ago and have used it lightly. Most of what I was doing was making circular cuts in wood up to about an inch but then tried my hand at resawing. My first attempts were dismal and I quickly learned a few important lessons. One of the first things I learned was my saw, equipped with the factory wheels, is easily tipped. It hasn't fallen over but it could easily happen if you're not aware. The second thing I learned is that the ceramic guides can dull a blade very quickly if you haven't set the blade correctly, both situations are the operators fault of course. So I took a hard look at every piece of literature and video I could find on setting up the saw properly and found two distinctly different approaches. The data wasn't saw specific so there is that but the biggest difference was the method of mounting and positioning the blade itself. One camp is adamant about the blade being centered on the tire while another has the gullet of the blade being centered. There is a big difference especially depending on the size of the blade. The 1412 can use a 3/4" blade but just barely in my opinion. I finally opted on using 1/2" resawing blades. My 1st gut kicking lesson was wetting the blade and then the ceramic guides which personally I find a bit difficult, especially the set below the table. My table is not a smooth operation to tilt like they show in the videos. I took pictures and sent emails and calls to try to see what the problem was. They were sending me warranty parts but the first attempt went to someone in California while I was waiting in Virginia. It took me 3 -4 months to finally get the parts, trunnions and slide blocks, from Laguna to try to repair this problem. By then I had shoulder replacement surgery so I haven't tried installing those parts yet. But in order to adjust the lower ceramic guides the table needs to tilt, at least for me. And I quickly learned that a bad adjustment is the same as taking a perfectly good blade and throwing it away. I can't speak for the bearing type guides but ceramic will destroy the teeth in a very short order if the blade teeth are hitting the ceramics. I reread and re-adjusted so the gullet of the blade is where the ceramics are positioned, away from the teeth. But it's also important to check after any blade positioning is made as this affects both the location on the tires as well as their position with the guides. After these hard learned lessons and destroying a 3/4" Timberwolf resaw blade I got disgusted with myself and went looking for alternative guides for this bandsaw when I found Carter Products and these. I did get the ceramics to work with some difficulty but have to wonder if the Carter guides wouldn't be a better alternative. Will they be easier on the blades should the adjustment get off or not be properly set? From the videos I've seen they appear to be easier to adjust but then again those doing the adjustments are experts, maybe the ceramics are just as easy. Point being I am planning on going to The Woodworking Show in Chantilly on the 23rd in Northern Virginia (Chantilly, Va) and will have chance to see these in person and ask them questions. Hopefully they will be familiar with the Laguna and can offer honest advice. From all I've heard they appear to be a good company to deal with and come highly recommended. What I can say is that Timberwolf was contacted when I discovered that one of the teeth on my 3/4" resaw blade was missing and it didn't appear to have been "broken" on site. It was actually clean and straight. I was told regardless they would send a replacement even after I had told them it may well have been my fault and true to his word it showed up on my doorstep about a week later. Shortly after I installed the blade and checked for runout, found none, and attempted to resaw a piece of treated 2x6 scrap I had laying around. I checked my tensioning, blade positioning both on the tires and guides, set the high side of the stock fence, set my thickness of cut, and proceed. It wasn't a bad cut but seemed a bit slow. I had two chucks of 16/4 poplar about 30" long and 6" tall that had been given to me by my local mill. These were scraps they had laying around and had no use for. I tried making a thin 1/4" cut and it too was fairly slow. So I switched blades to a 1/2" Wood Slicer blade I had gotten from Highland Woodworking after watching a side by side comparison and was impressed. It was easily twice as fast at the same cut. In all fairness I didn't try my Wolverine 1/2" resaw blade so it may well have performed better as well. So the bottom line, I really like the Laguna 1412 although I'll probably change the mobile base out for something more stable. I need to find a better way to move the saw as they say the worst way to move it is by pulling the table which may take it out of square with the blade. And then there's the question of the guides. Should I replace those with the almost $300 Carter guides or find a better way to adjust the ceramics guides. Will the bearing guides do the same damage as the ceramic if you mess up? I'm way to green to know this but I'm interested in your thoughts. Thanks for listening. -Steve
  4. I have Baileys, Fulton, Craftsman, Sargent, Stanley, and Stanley Bailey. I have found that one works as well as the other since they are nothing but a blade holder! The fact that they all work just fine, tells me that Lie Nielson, and the other modern ones that cost a lot of money tells me that a lot of folks, in my opinion, are spending a lot of unnecessary dollars!
  5. I think your choice of blade for a particular job really is a personal choice with prior knowledge of your cutting habits. There are times where I will change sizes or type of blade during the cutting of a piece ! ie: long straight or slight curved lines vs tight inside cuts. Blade choice also depends on the speed of your saw, the thickness of the wood, and the hardness of the wood. OK - I don't think there is a hard and fast rule. Your style of cutting will choose your blade size and type.
  6. Good Morning Friends, What is the better way of storing saw blades? Stacking them on top of each other or storing them in a case of some sort to protect the teeth?
  7. Dad is coming down this morning to pick up some saw blades for his Radial Arm Saw. I have some 10" blades sitting around that I have not used in a while, and he needs them. As I was sorting through my blades, and picking out some that would work well on his RAS, I was thinking what a neat subject this would make here in our community. I am not going to get into the differences between the blades and submit my knowledge of the differences, I wanted you all to contribute your own knowledge on the subject, meanwhile also staying away from linking to outside articles on the subject if you will. I would love to see the opinions and knowledge of our contributors here, for others who may happen onto our woodworking community, to benefit from and read up on. So, what is the difference between the various types of blades for our Radial Arm Saws, Miter Saws, and Table Saws, and even the hand held Cabinet or Wormdrive Saws? Why would you use one blade over the other? Why do these blades have different rakes? Why does tooth count matter? Thanks everyone for your contributions to this subject, please submit supporting images too if you like, but again, try to stay away from linking to outside sources, lets make this our own topic of knowledge on the subject!
  8. Been looking at ceiling fans. Just a nice basic 5 blade fan. Looks like all of them marked "inside use" have blades made of mdf. Fans rated for outside use have blades made of abs. We have one fan in the house now with mdf blades - in the kitchen - and they droop. Maybe this is from moisture, or maybe 'cause they are mdf? Will mdf blades start to droop after awhile even in dry rooms? Cal
  9. I've been following some other Scroll Sawing forums and it sounds like Mike has retired and sold his business to Wooden Teddy Bear. It sounds like it was on his terms so enjoy your retirement, Mike!
  10. Couldn't come up with a great topic title but you will get the idea when you read the post. Today I was working on an eagle pattern using 3/4" walnut. When cutting the feathers, it dawned on me that the "non cut area" around most of the feathers was really slim. Hmmmmm, 3/4" material and only a 1/16" left between feathers - could be in a real mess when looking at it from the other side. AND, this eagle is a free-stander - both sides will be viewed. Got me to thinking: Is my blade perfectly perpendicular to the table? Is the tension ok? Do I have the right blade so it won't bend in the middle? Am I pushing too hard? Am I pushing absolutely straight into the blade? Bunch of questions I couldn't really come up with an accurate answer. How else could I solve the problem of the cut looking the same from the front AND the back? "Turn on the bulb, mister ", I said to myself. "I think we just might have come up with an answer. Well, at least it's an answer." PLAN THE CUTS - Planning the cuts so that I will be cutting in the same direction on both sides (left and right) of the narrow part. Same angle on the blade ! ! ! ! Then ease up on the pressure. I'm sure the the blade and tension are right. Then, as old men tend to do, I got myself cornfuzed with which direction was shich. I then got out my trused pencil with a sharp blade and started marking the directions I would be cutting. VOILA - it worked perfectly for me. Both sides look good, no messy spiders on the back side. Maybe this trick will work for you.......................... If you have another idea for this dilema, let us know..................... Thanks for taking the time to read this little tid bit. Fred
  11. I recently acquired an RBI Hawk 20" saw. I just used it for the first time with some Flying Dutchman blades. My pattern had some areas of 6" or so straight lines and I noticed that when cutting them I had to skew the wood to the centerline of the saw (this was 1/4" thick sasafras). This saw has not rotation of the chucks (like for a rip cut) so I'm wondering if the blade could be the problem? I guess I can switch blades and see, but though I'd ask here. I'm not a big scroller, but didn't have this problem on my last saw ( a cheapie 2 speed 16" Delta).
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