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Showing results for tags 'clamp'.
Found 17 results
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Was in a $5 tub of tools, this morning..not sure WHAT it is. . A different view... Thumbscrews MIGHT be replacements? About 6" over all in length... Hmmm?
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Ran across this at a local on line auction. I don't have the item just their pictures. I enlarged the picture in two parts.
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This isn't something I normally do, but thought this might be useful to someone. If you need F clamps and live in the region served by Menards you can get a very good buy on them right now. Currently Menard's has a bag sale that's 15% off their already very good prices on anything that fits in the bag. They also have their own line of F Clamps sold under the Masterforce name. I pciked up a few recently after someone on LJ said they are very good clamps....and that advice was spot on. So I'll compare them to a comparable Bessey, normally my favorite brand of clamp. his is an older model Bessey 4 1/2" x 12" (it has the older wooden handle with a foam grip I added) and the MF 5 1/2" x 12" clamp. The MF clamp is more stout in every way. MF Bessey Bar: 1.1" x .32" 1.1" x .28" Weight 3.9# 2.1# throat 5.5" 4.5" Price 11.99 (less15% currently) ^$40 (as I type this Zoro has a special on them for $29.95, a very good deal) The 2 pics below give you some idea of the comparisons. Anyway, this won't mean much to many since Menards isn't national (yet) but if you have one close and need some larger Fclamps this would be a good time to buy some. They also come in 24" and 36" sizes, though I'm not sure if the 36" would qualify for the 15% bag discount. If not Menard's will likely start the 11% off everything sales back up soon.
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I started a project some YEARS ago. It's been on a bench for a while one thing led to another and I am only now thinking about getting back to it. It's 2.5" thick Walnut boards. I wonder if I am insane. I got this bug to make a really thick table top for a 9 foot long table in two halves lengthwise. I did the math and at that thickness I should be working with widths around 8" or so. I am just a little unsure about the joining of the boards thing. I know my jointer is good. It's a shellix in a 12" Hammer It does a nice job but I'm still a little shaky about joining such thick lumber. I mean there is no way my pony or bessy clamps will pull anything together. So if the machining isn't absolutely perfect I won't be able to tighten a clamp and squeeze it into place. Am I insane? Should I just go for it and see? The worst that can happen is I won't like it & I'll re-rip it and change something.
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How much pressure do you need on a glue joint? Apparently, not as much as you might think. Titebond recommends 150~250 pounds per square inch (psi) [range depends on soft/medium/hard wood]. I dug into some university reports, and wood glue (PVA, on maple, “tangential” grain match [flatsawn] ) maxes its strength at about 2400 psi clamp pressure, with strength maxing at 38 MPa (ignore what the letters mean); Titebond’s 250 psi clamping gives 27 MPa; and zero clamp pressure (just rubbing the blocks together) gives 26 MPa: that is, ZERO pressure gives 96% of the Titebond standard and 68% of max. IOW, you don’t get much added for all that clamping to 250 psi or higher. With pine (PVA, flatsawn), max strength is at 250 psi, giving 9 MPa; Titebond’s 150 psi gives about 8 MPa; “zero” clamping is 7 MPa (87% of T’b). The conclusion I draw is that clamping until you see a bit of squeeze out is enough. Another oft-cited caution: too much pressure will rob the joint of glue, reducing strength. The report did not show that. The peak glue strength in the testing was achieved just before the clamp pressure got so high that the wood deformed, and deformation (not glue loss) characterized maximum strength. [1 MPa = 145 psi] { https://wfs.swst.org/index.php/wfs/article/view/1395 }
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Dropped a bag of clothes off at the Lutheran Center....wasn't any tools in their Thrift Store.... Had a 24" F style clamp from Harbor Freight...that the rubber handle had broken..was informed that IF i bring the clamp back to the store, they would replace it, free of charge ( Life time warrantee) Took care of that. On the way back home-station....stopped at the Local Antique Mall....and spend $10 and change.. Sole looked good..at least.. Iron has issues, though.. As someone used a hammer to adjust the depth of cut....has a "mushroom" growing just above the Stanley Logo Might get around to a little clean up, sometime...
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If someone says they have too many clamps, you can't believe anything they say
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Maybe not the place for this but here goes. Just got this email from Woodcraft on a new clamp. I find the idea amazing but wonder what the clamp pressure is, have not researched yet Quick Twist Bar Clamp
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Dec / Jan Wood Magazine has my submitted shop tip in it.
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Been looking for clamp rack solutions but haven't had and ideals deals to impress me enough to make it. Can't really find any pictures of these clamps In a clamp rack. Just started using Pinterest this week and couldn't find anything there on these clamps. Open for ideals...throw some pictures if you can find any. Thx.....
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From the album: TV cabinet
Clamping this thing together took some effort due to size and angles. I made this jigs to help pull the thing together. -
I stopped by a yard sale this morning and picked up 7 braces, 3 clamps, a Red Head eggbeater drill and a boxful of new Schlage hinges, handles and miscellaneous hardware for $30. The box of hardware isn't shown. All of the braces will be shipped to the country of Malawi where we have a missions group. The Malawi men are amazing carpenters and braces are very desirable.
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I am getting ready to glue up a rather large cutting board: 24x48, finished size 23x38. Will need to trim some splits off the ends. In the past, I've use pipe clamps and alternated them top and bottom. This time I'm using parallel jaw clamps. Do they need to be alternated as well?
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A while back I bought a couple of these http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-12-in-bar-clamp/p-00931482000P And posted that I rather liked them. I still do, but they are not 12" I was doing a glue up of some drawer boxes and wanted to use the clamps to put the squeeze on the Box Joints. They didn't fit. I measured the box measured the clamp it was a mis match But I observed a limiting factor. The factory drove a plastic stop in the bar. The intent is to prevent one from letting the head slip off the end and at the same time serve as a mounting location stop to flip the little clamp end around for spreading. So I drove them out and go a couple more inches out of the b clamps. It was great, I was a genius, Right up to that point where I slipped the head off the end. Oh man getting all the kings horses back together. Ya gotta use a chisel to cut the bond of the orange rubber grip off to get to a screw. They assembled it with screws but hid one under there. Then when I took the clamshell apart to see about getting the head back on SPROINGGGGggGGGgGGG Yah springs went flying. Oh man. I think I may have actually said something harsh like Gosh Durn DagNabbit and other colorful verbiage It was a hour figuring out (a) if I had all the springs and (b) how to reassemble it. this is what the little plastic bit looks like http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af143/zydaco/Show and Tell/Plastic bit_zpsuycvacqv.jpg This is what I did to keep the head on and get the extra inches. http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af143/zydaco/Show and Tell/Allen screw _zps4gei4ul5.jpg
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Well, time to glue some of the pieces into something that at least looks like a table. Cleaned off the bench (!!!!) and worked on fitting the breadboard ends Either the tongues were too long, or the groove was too shallow. Wasn't going to fiddle with the router, so the tongues were trimmed a bit. Glue and a clamp until the joints closed up tight, then add a 5/8" brad into each of the three boards of the top. Right in the center of each, through the grooved part, and through the tongue. I think I might have ticked the Shop Cat off, though.. Ya think? Set the top aside for awhile. Took the base apart....SLOWLY. Marked a couple of the parts as to which end goes where, and which edge was "Up" laid the Ooops side of the base on the bench. Took it apart, spread some glue around, clamp it together, and add some 1" long brads through the glue joints. While it was laying there, dug up some pine scrap, and fashioned a Dutchman Patch. Doesn't have to be exact, but it does have to fill a hole. More on that in a moment Repeat with the other side. Then the fun can begin. Glue and clamps to attach the back to the two sides. Then place the mess on the floor, on it's four feet. More glue, and a few well directed hammer blows to attach the two pieces in the front. More clamps and a check for square.......close enough for Government Work... Might have just enough clamps? Oh, about that Dutchman Patch? Look right beside the bottom clamp, you'll see a darker square showing up. Laid out a stretcher for attaching the top, and to act as a kicker, to keep the drawer from tipping down But I'll wait for the glue to cure overnight, before I go chopping out the dovetails. Stay tuned, the building part is almost done...
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Right after I posted about a saw fence to replace a "stock" job-site fence on a few sites, things got a bit crazy. The fence is a home-made "T" square sort of thingy. Just three pieces of scrap. Can be clamped to the rail on a Job Site Saw to replace a flimsy stock one, can be clamped to a board as a speed square, a saw guide, or even a router guide. Kind of fuzzy ( we're working on that issue) but this is set up as a saw guide to do a straight line rip. Anyway, one of the sites this cheap little fence was posted on was The American Woodworker. Project hits/views are now OVER 17,000! Ok, just three pieces of scrap wood? Maybe six or so screws? Maybe this will go "virial"???
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Several of you were asking me about the jig I use to cut the dovetails in the Cedar Chest I posted. The Dovetail Wiz is the jig I use and it comes from Peach Tree Woodworking. I purchased the jig at The Woodworking Shows when they were in Huntsville, Ala. several years back. They don't see to have a show in our area any longer. The jig is really easy to setup and it is 15" long. You can purchase extra 15" jigs and make it as long as you want. I have two of the 15" jigs mounted together on a block of wood. On one side you cut the pins, flip it around and cut the tails on the other side. Find the center of the board you are going to route. Always start with the tails. Once you have the center, make a mark 5/16" either side and then line up one of the inside edges of the tail opening exactly with the second line and you will cut perfect tails. I to all the tail pieces before switching to the pins. I do have a router with the tail bit and one with the pin bit so I don't have to change and set them up. When you are ready to cut the pins lay the matching tail board on top of the edge of the pin board and scribe a mark inside both edges. Set the jig on top of the board and line up the inside edge with the two scribe marks and clamp it down.
