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Found 25 results

  1. Good day folks, I wonder if anyone has any experience with, or knows where to get a good Made in the USA, or European, Sweden or German, anything but China, bench vise for carving, and something that would be used by gunsmiths. Preferably I'd like to see something that can be clamped to the bench while in use, and unclamped and out of the way to free up my bench during typical use. The ideal vise would be multi positional for carving. I am interested in building flintlock rifles, I see other builders using a front vise to hold one end of the gun and a fixed or clamp-on vise to hold the other end. They are typically multi positional. Thanks for any help.
  2. Tonight I pulled my end vise from my new bench. When I picked up my bench over a month ago, I noticed the vise was very stiff. Beyond stiff, actually the tube holes swelled around the tubes to the point of zero clearance, as a matter of fact the wood was tight around the tubes. I don't know when the last time was that the previous owner used his vise, it could have been years, judging by how his shop appeared to have not been worked in for a long time, he may have not known that his vise was nearly in-operable. at 95 years old, he may not have even been able to spin the handle, maybe, maybe not. I was able to turn the handle, it was tight but functioned. I removed the end vise from the bench top, I had to remove 4 bolts and unscrew the tube supports from under the top, the straight slot screws were a joy to spin out. Image below, end vise removed. Once it was unbolted and unscrewed, I had to wiggle it off the hard wood spline you see in the first image. I quickly set it on the floor, it was heavy. It is as wide as the bench, and takes up about a half of the real estate under the bench. Jim, the previous owner, all his work was and is so precise, I have viewed his metal working, leather work, and woodworking, and all his work was done with careful precision, I am only surmising here, but with his machinist background I am wagering he made this vise to operate with very close tolerances, regarding the tube holes, possibly not taking wood movement or swelling into consideration. But then as I type this, I am telling myself, he was a highly experienced woodworker, he must of known about wood movement, so the fact that his home is only blocks from the ocean, may have more to do with the swelling around the vise tube holes than the manufacturing process. Top of the vise, note the dog holes in the top face. I had to remove the pins that held the sliding block in place on the operating tubes. The two inside tubes are fixed, the two outside tubes slide. The tubes were so tight, I had to use a combination of pounding, and letting the vise do its own work against it self. I inserted two blocks of wood between the end tubes, and the stationary block, then screwed the vise closed, and pushed the end stationary block off the tubes. Vise is flipped over and viewing bottom of vise. Finally, after much persuasion and heavy thinking, I got the entire assembly separated. I had to carefully beat and push the blocks off the tubes, imagine how stiff the vise was to actually operate. Now the work begins to create some daylight between the tube holes, and the tubes themselves. I am being creative right now on how to do this, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated. My first thought is to spend some time with a sanding drum on a drill, and just sand the inside of the holes till I have about 1/32nd all around the tubes. I love this old vise, I hope to breath new life into it, and have a fully functional end vise, I know I will, just takes a little elbow grease.
  3. The right side of my end vise binds up. You'll see the left side move in, and the right side binds. I have completely broken down this vise, all the way. Cleaned, reamed out the holes a millimeter or two, waxed it all down, reassemble, it works fine for a few months then goes back to its wicked ways. From around 6" open it's fine, get beyond that it starts binding. While opening and closing. Any suggestions are welcome. Here's the tune up I did awhile back.
  4. Here’s the oddball post of the week. When I retired 11 years ago, My employer let me keep my toolbox that they provided. Last year, I got tired of moving the beast around my garage so I got rid of it. However, I did remove the Wilton bullet machinist vise and stored it under the bench where it has collected dust ever since. I’m thinking about listing it on a EBay and the prices are all over the place depending on the age and style. Typically, the date of manufacture is stamped on the key that the head slides on. There is nothing stamped into the key so I don’t know when it was made. I did read that when Wilton moved from the old original plant to the new one in the 50s, they didn’t stamp dates. Anyone (Buskirk) a Wilton vise expert? If I list it, I don’t want to cheat myself or anyone else. I can take more pictures if you need them.
  5. This is awesome! Probably the best portable vise I've seen.
  6. It has been some time back when I was out picking that I ran across this wooden clamps. They were not all found at the same place but all came out of old woodworking shops. They just looked to cool to leave and it nothing else will make nice wall art in the shop. I havne found any real markings or names on any of them so I know no real history to them. These are about 50" long and in full working order. The loose end will just slide up and down the wooden bar but lock in when pressure is applied. The adjustment end is all free and will screw in and out. I then ran across this neat wooden bar clamp. The adjustment handle is on the end and the hardware mounted inside. It has been cracked so you can see the workings. There are notches in the bottom and as you move the loose end it will lock into the notches so you can tighten the clamp. It has a spring spring clip to hold it tight against the bar. The other piece is a homemade bench vise I believe. The gear on the end is wired on so they could use the inside threads for the adjustments. The outer gear has no other function. You could mount this under a table and with stop dogs tighten a piece down. It has a bar that moves in and out as you tighten. I guess you could put a piece in that part and used it but you would be limited to the size you could hold. Anyway they were just nice old pieces that needed to be saved and not put into the burn pile. So I'll just display them in the shop with a few other tools that have called my name. Hopefully I'll be bak out Patriot Picking again real soon. Till Then.... Happy Patriot Picking
  7. Many of my projects involve bow fronts, which result in compound angle dovetails ... I do enjoy building furniture with dovetailing challenges. Between furniture pieces, I find time to build a new tool. This time it is the Moxon dovetail vise I have been promising myself for a while. My first and only one was built in early 2011, after Chris Schwarz helped put it on the map. I immediately modified this design, and have been making modifications since. (Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html This new Moxon incorporates the best ideas. Ironically, this design is not geared for compound angles. I decided to heed my own advice and keep it as simple as possible, and cater for the 90% of the dovetailing that is likely to be done. The width of the vise is narrower than my previous one, but capable of 450mm (17 3/4")between the screws. Most cases I built are between 350 - 450mm deep. My previous Moxon could do 560mm (22") between the screws. This is unnecessary, and just makes for a very large fixture. Where the old Moxon used wooden screws, which I turned, this uses steel Acme screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted ... except that these came via Tom Bussey (thanks Tom), which amounted to a large savings. The wheels are 5" in diameter on a 3/4" screw. The front chop is 5 1/2" high, and the Moxon is built in Jarrah ... what else do you expect! I went a little OTT in this build, but it was fun, and I admit I did become a little carried away Brass inlay ... The chop runs on bronze bushings ... Lining the inside of the vise is rubberised cork. This makes a great non-slip (not my idea - this comes from BenchCrafted, who call it "crubber". Simply search eBay for "cork rubber"). This vise is a good height for sawing ... There are a few innovations. The rear of the vise ... This is a spacer, and it can be locked into the up position ... The spacer has two functions. The first is setting the pin board (10mm) above the chop to prevent scoring the chop when transferring tails to pins with a knife (this is more of a danger with through dovetails). Also, by lifting the work, there will be light behind the pin board, and this makes it easier to align the edges. The crubber makes a great non-slip. The spacer may be dropped out of the way, once the height is set ... The second use of the spacer is that it has a sliding dovetail at the top, and this allows for the use of MicroJig clamps. This would be especially useful for holding wide boards, or tail board which have developed a slight bow ... I have used this on other fixtures, such as a morticing jig. For aligning the tail- and pin boards, I prefer a simple wide square I made from wood ... The spacer needs to be dropped out of the way for this ... Once transfer is made, reverse the board and saw the pins. This is where you will recognise that the cove is not simply decoration, but allows the saw to angle and get closer to the work piece. The lower the work piece in the vise, the less vibration when sawing ... And thats it ... the last moxon dovetail vise ... Regards from Perth Derek
  8. Working on final step of the new workbench, installing an Emmert patternmaker's vise. Have any of you ever done this or have one? I'm trying to decide the right install position. It appears there are three common positions, depending on who you read: Hinged part insert into the front of the bench the thickness of the hinge (~ 5/16"). This leaves a gap between the front of the bench and the back of the rear jaw. Highland Woodworking's Emmert clone appears to do this, but I'm not real happy with the gap there. Front of the bench abutting the back of the rear jaw. This closes the gap, but leaves the jaw joint away from the front of the bench Inner side of back jaw flush with front edge of bench. This requires a profiled cut out in the front of the bench to match the back profile of the back jaw. I am not leaning toward this because my bench top is only 1.5" thick as opposed 4 or 5" that would provide support for a board. In addition, if you want to swivel the jaws around on the screw axis you have to pivot out, rotate. then pivot back in. Looking for comments and experiences. Signed, Goldilocks
  9. OK, decided the old saw vise needed new lumber....old was too narrow, and too short... With the idea that when this is in the vise, sitting on the rods...a saw's tooth line would be about 4' off the floor....closer to my eyeballs, easier to see. Oiled the moving parts, wiped off the crud.. Note to self: IF you are checking how well them jaws work..don't have a finger in the area...DAMHIKT Logos? Logos?? "NO . 1 " Logos... PAT. APR 8 79.....April 8, 1879...been around, awhile. Set this carefully aside... one of the saws that was sharpened in that vise....20-1/2" long, straight back, 8ppi Panel saw. Wrong bolts...not sure about that handle...seems to be filed "Crosscut" might give it a try.. Scrap from the plank the saw vise was rehabbed with...might be a good test? Lots of sawdust....lumber was left-over treated pine, from the Porch Project... In about the same amount of time it took to type that last sentence....I just might get the hang of sawing by hand? Split the line. All the way around.... Thumb rubbing alongside the saw's plate seems to help..Might just keep that Panel saw around....and save the 10ppi Disston 20" D8 for finer stuff... Have no idea who made the saw used in this test... Not too bad of a saw?
  10. So over the course of the spring, summer & fall when I haven't been working on the lawn mowers, mowing/trimming the acreage, working on someone's vehicle or coordinating repairs while in a shop, transporting grandkids, attending grandkid's events, tending to other family matters and maybe the occasional nap, I'd squeeze in some small tool re-conditioning from my yard sale & flea finds...Thanks for looking... This came from a yard sale...got it tossed in with a 7-1/4" Skil saw & case...all for $5; Sorry no before pictures but the screw and rails had a fair amount of surface rust, but no pitting. The jaws had some rust on front and back faces and around the perimeter. I had cleaned once & waxed once, but with our humidity year-around, it rusted again, so, disassembled, de-rust, 4 coats gun blue on the rails, screw threads(probably black oxide originally?), black paint stick to touch up the jaws and three coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. The 6" adjustable square is my new one from H-F (I know, I know berate me if you must, but it's accurate and it works for me) Next up is an original Portalign...no before pics...the posts were pretty rusted as were the thumb screws. The aluminum was corroded too. Posts were cleaned on the grinder, brass wire wheel, progressively sandded with wet-cry and machine oil from 100g to 400g, then polished on the buffer; aluminum buffed with brass wire on a Dremel then polished on the buffer as were the thumb screws. Flea market find $1. Didn't need them, BUT....before pics... and after of the combo squares; sorry poor quality of picture...No I didn't transform the tri-square to an 8" combo square. Tri-square probably won't get much more. While digging through some of my "projects" I found the 8" blade, partially cleaned. I totally forgot I had ever bought it...it came with a bundle of machinist stuff I gave about $10 for. The head, I robbed from an old 6" aluminum blade combo sq hence the purchase of the new H-F 6". Blades are a little dull due to poor lighting and un-buffed coat of Johnson's. Top is a Stanley 46-222. Probably mid to late 80's; maybe a little newer? 8" marked Bates Mfg Co, Orange Mass; Bottom no name, only Made in USA Stanley 46-222 8" Bates Mfg. ??? Made in USA Again, not best pictures; with my phone, poor lighting etc. Craftsman 2" OD Outside Calipers; these were part of that machinist bundle circa 1940's??? just based on script. I had done a little cleaning on thee before the pics just to see the name. Legs, head and threads were pretty rusty but mostly surface rust. There is one small area of pitting on one leg face/ After Dremel work, polishing with with abrasive erasers, then polishing on buffing wheel. Picture is a bit dull, as I'm leaving a coat of Johnson's but did use 3-n-1 oil on threads & pivots. My storage method, includes wrapping in wax paper, sealing in sandwich or quart freezer bag including a desiccant bag. Grandkids earn rewards finding, saving desiccant bags. A 4"? divider, 2" ID calipers and 6" dividers. The first two belonged to my grand-father, then my dad. Forgot I had them. They were an old tool cabinet that belonged to both. I rarely get into or disturb anything inside that cabinet. The bottom set, I gave a quarter at lest years Covered Bridge Festival. One point had been broken and reground more or less. Same method on top & bottom two...Dremel, abrasive eraser's, then buff. I did attempt to re-blue the nut & threads. After the picture, I noticed some flash rust from the bluing, so rebuffed with the Dremel, another coat of wax, then 3-n-1 oil on threads & pivots, wax paper, sealed bag with desiccant. The middle dividers, I used the 6" brass wire wheel, abrasive erasers, the buffing wheel progressive to Red Rouge. I did re-blue the tension nut. Rewaxed and storage same as others. The plastic point protector sleeves are repurposed from Glow-in-the-Dark sticks of the grand-kids. Small inside calipers; Lufkin Rule Co Saginaw Mich. ~mid 40's? 6" dividers"; Sargent & Co New Haven,Conn ~50's?? 4" dividers; Goodell-Pratt Co Greenfield Mass...~mid 40's??? A pair of v-blocks but only one clamp; part of that machinist too bundle. No actual before pics but these were all rust. I couldn't get the clamp off one block until it had soaked 24 plus hours in Evap_O-Rust. doing that sometimes gives a "pickled" appearance on tool steel. You can't really feel it; I tried polishing & honing it away using progressive grits of wet or dry and oil, but it didn't help much for the time invested. The only marking is the name "Stan." stamped into the ends of the blocks. I don't think these are purchased, rather made in a tool room or perhaps part of an apprentice program. Very well done, but there are tool drags marks in the grooves, and file/grind marks in side the arch of the clamp. I've got a couple other pieces in process which also appear shop made. I noticed the flash rust after the pics, so "honed" again on my granite tile with wet or dry/oil, cleaned with Brake Cleaner, light coat of oil, wrapped in wax paper and sealed off in a bag...the block plane will be in it's own post eventually. Other similar projects are in the works. Thanks for looking.
  11. kmealy

    New tool

    I was doing some routing on the entire length of an 8' x 2" x 3/4" bunch of boards today. It was not very convenient to move the clamps twice for each of the six boards so I had to invent a new tool. I'm working on my assembly table so no dogs, no holdfasts, nothing but F-clamps that I can fit on the last couple of inches. I came up with the "butt clamp." I sat on the boards near the middle and ran the router off and on both edges of each end. I tell you, I need to patent this.
  12. From the album: John's Shop

    I recently inherited this beautiful workbench. The top is 4" thick, 6.5' long by 24" wide with a tool well at the rear. The top is composed of Maple and Oak billets, there are dog holes and the original owner made his own dogs out of aluminum rounds, they work very well. The end vise is large and very powerful. The cabinet is made of oak, with oak drawers and walnut pulls. I will be using the bench as my primary work surface for all I do, I cannot wait to start work on it. I purchased the hold fasts from a fellow on ebay, he hand forges them and sells them at a very reasonable price. I have already tried them and they truly do hold fast! More than likely I will remove the surface mounted vise as it will be in my way, but it is a nice vise, I'll mount it elsewhere in my shop space.
  13. How often have I seen Steven Newman post a pick and he has something in his vise. Man that looks so useful verses a mechanics vise on top of a bench. Problem, where do I put it, and you know two would be better with my bad wrist and arm. Now I know this may not be the best placement but this is what was available. I work with what I have, not what I wish for. In theory anyway. Used the original holes for a extra extension on the saw, 7/6" machine bolts 2 1/2 inches long, used all 3 holes. Took some old maple I had and glued together then drilled the holes and dry fitting everything. Worked well. To mount the vises I used 1/4 SS machine screws. Had to cut them down from the original 2 1/2 inches to fit. The inserts for each side are also maple that I put some urethane on to keep from gluing anything I shouldn't to them. Again this is theory, time will tell. The entire TS has Formica whenever there is no cast iron. Kept that theme up and had just enough left over to use for this project. Just keeps it easier to clean up. Already thinking about adding one on the other side. Irwin clamps were on sale for $20 at Lowe's. One box was open the saleswoman tells me stuff is missing and marked it down to $5. Later when I got home I discovered the cashier didn't even ring it up. Made out like a bandit! Maybe not the greatest clamps in the world but will do. Enjoy and be inspired.
  14. Ok, between Projects at the moment....took a long look at the vise that has seen so much use...and abuse the last 3 years...or so.. Uummmm, yeah. Managed to dig a "dog" out of the bench.. Had to pound it down out of the bench, in fact. May work on ti as well.. Methinks this needs a new set of jaws...may replace the chewed up end of the bench, while I am at it.. Fingers keep getting little slivers up under fingernails...easy enough to remove... May be a couple more under the jaws. Depending on the next trip to Menard's...about when some 2x cut-offs can be brought home. Metal part of this vise came from a vendor @ Tractor Fest 2015...$10..... Then added a few boards to.. Added a thicker jaw to allow for bench dogs... Grandson wants a Coffee Table, too...wonder IF I can get this vise fixed up, first? We'll see..
  15. There was a time when you needed a tool, you just had to make it yourself. Last week I had a gentleman stop and look at some of my hand tools at First Friday. He was telling me about a few wooden tools he had. I ran into him at the auction on Saturday night and he said I have something to show you. A trip to his vehicle and he produced these three very nice hand made wooden tools. He said they had hung in his fathers shop for as long as he could remember and when he passed away he took them down and brought them home. He offered them to me, he wanted them to go to someone who would appreciate them and keep them, not just sell them. WOW! There is a Wooden Scribe, a Wooden vise and A Wooden Caliper. The scribe. It is scribed with measurements. And the back side. Then the wooden vise The wooden caliper. His father was a carpenter/woodworker and probably made these in the early 1900's. So excited to add them to the collection and really cool to have some history to go along.
  16. Good morning guys, over the weekend I added some suede to the inside of my woodworking vise using Scotch 77 super glue which doesn't hold well enough for my liking. Couple questions, I bought some heavier leather now and am wondering what to attach it with? I've read two sided tape Titebond glue, as well as some Titebond hide glue. Can anyone share their personal experiences? Second question is it any better to put leather on both sides of the vise? Thanks Pat
  17. I originally posted this on Vectric's forum, but as it makes sense to post under this topic I'm sharing it here again. Sometimes a part that needs a little CNC work done on it is too small for any conventional bed clamp to hold down. I have used my drill press table vise on occasion, but it is rather tall. More useful on my CNC shark which has better Z clearance than my Probotix Meteor. Most wood vise parts are 1/2" BB plywood and cut out on my CNC. One small part on the bottom was a thinner piece of scrap plywood. I spaced the holes out so the vise would slide into 2 tracks of my CNC bed. Discovered by accident that the hole spacing also works in the solid t-track bed of my CNC Shark. Apologies for the B&W images. Accidently had the wrong setting set in my photo software. The 3/8" x 16 threaded rod pushes against a 5/16" vertical aluminum post embedded int the front vise jaw. Keeps the jaw from spitting. No handle designed for it yet. I turn two nuts jammed together on the end with a box end wrench. 4D
  18. A local CL ad has a Zyliss aluminum vice made in Switzerland complete and in excellent condition for $110.00. I have no idea what it would normally sell for. It looks like it would be useful for my gunsmithing hobby. Any opinions much appreciated.
  19. This bench was the culmination of 2 years of search and design combination. The design came from several places among them Shopnotes, Wood and the internet. It took me almost 2 years to find a sawmill with the white oak to do the build. Meanwhile I was accumulating the hardware. The front vise and tail vise came fron Lee Valley. Also bed bolts to connect the frame to ends. The front jaw on the front vise was a glue up of 4 pieces of maple salvaged from a bench in a retail store. This is the leg blanks cut to size and awaiting glue up. This is not the glue up of the legs, but the setup to be glued. I used waxed inserts to hold the slot size placement when doing the glueup. above are the legs ready for cross braces. to the right are the legs dry fitted. Cross braces are rabbited to fit mortise and protrude from the frame to allow chamfering the ends. This is a close up of the bed bolts in action for the top rail. The frame with lower shelf of plywood dropped into a rabbit in the lower frame. This is the glueup for the lower frame. Now time to begin the top with 3 layers of MDF glued and screwed together with careful placement of screws so as not to interfere with dog holes. Banded with white oak and enought space at the top for a layer of masonite so top can be changed if ever needed. Then work on the bottom with ends. The completed bench . Now time for drawers. Drawers have dividers and more enhancements added since the photos were done. The finish is from Mickley on Wood Finishing Forum(glad I printed out lots from the old days) . I will have to look that up in the shop and post later, but the glue easily pops off the finish.
  20. Version 1.0.0


    Delta Milwaukee Catalog 1026 Drill Press Vise Decal Image (1941-54)
  21. Version 1.0.0

    1 download

    Delta Mfg. Co. Catalog 1026 Drill Press Vise Decal Image (1940-41)
  22. View File Catalog 1026 Delta Mfg. Drill Press Vise Decal (1940-41) Delta Mfg. Co. Catalog 1026 Drill Press Vise Decal Image (1940-41) Submitter Larry Buskirk Submitted 11/25/2015 Category Delta Mfg. Co.
  23. View File Catalog 1026 Delta Milwaukee Drill Press Vise Decal Delta Milwaukee Catalog 1026 Drill Press Vise Decal Image (1941-54) Submitter Larry Buskirk Submitted 11/25/2015 Category Delta Milwaukee
  24. That I picked up at the tractor fest. A bright red Craftsman 7" wood worker's vise. But, about the only spot on my bench would have been the end of the bench. Grabbed the vise, and a pencil, juggled things around until I had marked a spot out for it. The "End cap" on my bench is just a 2 x4. Needed to notch it in such a way, that i could add two lag screws. needed it to be lower than the bench's top, too. Finally, juggled a bit more, and marked a spot. It sat between the bolts for the bench's legs. Had to miss them. Sabresaw to do the vertical cuts......horizontals weren't working. Got out the circular saw...one pass and done. Big chisel to finish the notch. Had to notch a bit into a leg, though. This is seen from below. More about that pine stuff in a bit. had a Hammerhead driver set up Got some big screws, and got the vise installed... But, I wasn't quite done with this thing. needed some "jaws" made. had some 1x4 pine. Cut it to length, saved the cut-off. More juggling with a pencil. Needed to mark a mortise of sorts. needed the top of the pine to be just a hair higher than the bench's top. Needed to remove enough wood to cover the metal part screwed to my bench. Once a few lines were marked out, time for a BIG clamp, and a chisel or two And start to chop away what didn't need to be there. At one point, the chisel hopped up and bit my hand! Not a slice, just a bounce off. made a mess. that Aldi chisel is quite sharp!.. This was more like a mortise for a hinge. About 1/2" deep, little over 3" front to back, and 7" wide....Whew. Took a break, to get a bandaid, and a fan.....hot down there. Got pretty close, and pared to the lines.. Something like this. Laid out for some countersunk screw holes, and drilled them. Including the pilot holes. Slapped the pine face into place, Hammerhead to drive more screws About like this. The extra was just sitting there. Then I closed the vise up,set the moving face into it's spot, and added more screws. Ran the vise in and out a few times.....needed oil on the metal parts that move. Closed it back up Grabbed a jack plane, and planed everything flush with the bench's top. Block plane to add a champfer arounf a few edges. and a coat of BLO to the outside. Opened it back up, to check for any droop I think this $10 vise is finally installed. Lots of cussing, and a cut hand. had to go to the store to get a couple lag screws and washers....put them in place tomorrow, I am tuckered out. BTW: that Aldi's chisel? It was part of a 4 pc set @ $7. The one I was using? was about 7/8" wide, and so is the cut on my hand. I sharpened it went I got them, haven't had to since.
  25. One of my favourite terms when looking through the yard sale ads.....BARN SALE! Ranks right up there with FREE Was striking out at a bunch of yard sales today...then found a Barn Sale. Spent a whopping $6 on just five items... Chisel needs a new handle. Not sure about the "handle" that wide bladed thing has a double bevel . Bowl gouge might need a bit of work. The price tag on that biggie thing say $5 A Mr. Arthur J. D'Leary & Sons of Chicago, ILL , USA Vise. I checked the screw on it....shines like new! Vise operates smoothly, almost like it just came of the store's shelf. These blew my allowance for the weekend. To bad, I could have spent a $100 in that barn.... Bottom end. Not too bad a morning, after all?
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