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What's On Your Work Bench?

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2 hours ago, Woodman said:

Still slumming it with TB-1.  You'all recommend stepping up to TB-2 ?

 

All I know is I use the white Tightbond on light woods, and the dark Tightbond on dark woods, beyond that it's seems to hold my stuff together.

But I am going to start using hide glue for my chairs, just so in a hundred years the current owner can pull it apart for repairs. :)

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  • PostalTom
    PostalTom

    Q:  Why does a chicken coop only have two doors?   A:  Because if it had four doors, it would be a sedan. 

  • John Morris
    John Morris

  • Still working on Urn, just finished glue up on top.  Will put a profile on it and sand it down then  off to finish room.   Dry fit:  

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19 minutes ago, John Morris said:

start using hide glue

When doing a fiddle refurb I'll include an image or five with the double boiler in the foreground, the instrument under repair in the background, to document hide glue. Titebond is only used when I never ever want it coming apart, like "If this comes apart, the entire component has to be removed and replicated" (a reinforced pegbox crack comes to mind).

 

Behlen Ground Hide Glue, 1 lb can is what most luthiers use.

 

The glue pot has other uses as well. Marine grade epoxy, heated to 150˚ in the pot, will wick into the tightest crack, says Pat DiBurro ◊ Master Luthier.

 

I use marine-grade epoxy. The epoxy, I heat it to 150˚F and it becomes as thin as water.  No matter how tight the crack, it wicks right in.  I use West Systems clear marine epoxy.  #105 is the resin, #206 is the hardener, 5 to 1 ratio.. - Pat DiBurro

 

For an important project I make enough glue for the whole thing. Carefully cook it up to the perfect consistency, let it cool, and refrigerate for one-to-two weeks. Heat it back up with maybe a drop or two of water (good use of a soda straw). Single Batch Method ["SBM"] is my own thing but ensures consistency in mix and quality.

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2 minutes ago, Woodman said:

When doing a fiddle refurb I'll include an image or five with the double boiler in the foreground, the instrument under repair in the background, to document hide glue. Titebond is only used when I never ever want it coming apart, like "If this comes apart, the entire component has to be removed and replicated" (a reinforced pegbox crack comes to mind).

 

Behlen Ground Hide Glue, 1 lb can is what most luthiers use.

 

The glue pot has other uses as well. Marine grade epoxy, heated to 150˚ in the pot, will wick into the tightest crack, says Pat DiBurro ◊ Master Luthier.

 

I use marine-grade epoxy. The epoxy, I heat it to 150˚F and it becomes as thin as water.  No matter how tight the crack, it wicks right in.  I use West Systems clear marine epoxy.  #105 is the resin, #206 is the hardener, 5 to 1 ratio.. - Pat DiBurro

 

For an important project I make enough glue for the whole thing. Carefully cook it up to the perfect consistency, let it cool, and refrigerate for one-to-two weeks. Heat it back up with maybe a drop or two of water (good use of a soda straw). Single Batch Method ["SBM"] is my own thing but ensures consistency in mix and quality.

 

Awesome tips, thanks Woodman!!!!!

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You're welcome :TwoThumbsUp:I'm happy to share.  One item to note: refrigerated hide glue can become rancid. "Several weeks, tightly capped" is what you see online.

 

It's been a while, but I recall I'd mix it when getting close, let it set in the fridge for a 1-2 weeks, then use it up in 3-4 days, a week or so at most. 

 

I have used older glue without any issues, with only heat and a few drops of water. Rule of thumb: Smell it. :cowboy:

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On 6/27/2022 at 11:12 AM, PostalTom said:

So far, I have turned three pawns for the chess set I am making for my gron.  Starting to look like a set?

 

 

pawns.jpg.470a43120e5ee436039f3a6fb657fcee.jpg

Edited June 27 by PostalTom
Hit submit by mistake.

I have continued this project on the woodturning forum.  BTW, gron was supposed to say grandson.  I guess I got in a hurry with the edit earlier.

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Three projects:

 

• Small hard pine tray; it'll fit a Handyman handily.

• Small folding table for farm market vending.

• And these ninths of an arc have been rabbeted. Yep, hauled the ∆ Delta to the porch for 15 minutes of 90% humidity cutting.

 

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Have a few panels sitting on the bench...

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A "Front" panel..

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A "Back" panel....and over on the tablesaw...

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No. 1 End panel...and ..

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End panel No.2.....all are about...

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That wide.....length varies a bit...

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Getting messier..:DevilLaughing:

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And..Parts is Parts...Tenons, grooves, and rebates...oh my...:BugEyeSmiley:

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:ChinScratch:

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Un-clamped, and standing up, on their own 2 feet..

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Not to bore you, but it is 'New To Me" . . . Stepping up my drilling game with this Forster bit :cowboy:

 

1020037356_FREUDForstnerBitfiveeigthsinch.JPG.46544513407032899d9eb3717942bb04.JPG

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Make a knick-knack tray / box for my cousin. Got it 25% right. The next one will be better. To get the grain to match up, I had to widen its inset base two blade-widths.

 

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I've got two more such donor blocks. Step 1, be sure fence and blade are 100% true :TwoThumbsUp: Step 2, check the fence and blade more often :ChinScratch: Step 3, don't try to glue it all up at the same time. :D  

 

990131277_grainmatchedboxfornancy2.JPG.a42af2e4aa76b435e4be124c9ad0136b.JPG

 

I've been using less glue, only to the lower edge of one side of the joint. Near zero squeeze out on the inside hard-to-clean area. But that method makes the joint seize up really fast, no wiggle play time, no easy slide the wood around time. Ahh, I'll figure it out. :P

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Right now?    Just a very smelly box...

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airing it out, after a coat of Witch's Brew had been brushed on, then wiped down....

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Didn't want to leave it all closed up...

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^^^^^^^^What Lew said!!^^^^^^^^^

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Good looking box. Doesn't smell too bad, from this angle. What's it gonna hold. Whatever it is, it ain't likely to escape.:TwoThumbsUp:

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11 hours ago, lew said:

Sweet!!!!!!!!!!

 

X2!

 

 

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Strong work on the box,...love the look of it :Praise:

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Been mainly working on exterior projects. For the first time, I'm forcing myself to stay away from shop projects and only work on exterior house projects  I finally after probably 5 years , got the mailbox up. Still needs lettering for my football team and a roll tide banner and it will be complete. 

 

 

20220714_084931.jpg

Edited by BillyJack

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1 minute ago, BillyJack said:

Been mainly working on exterior projects. For the first time, I'm forcing myself to stay away from shop projects and only work on exterior house projects  I finally after probably 5 years , got the mailbox up. Still needs lettering for my football team and a roll tide banner and it will be complete. 

 

GREAT to have you posting again BJ! Pray all is well health wise. Good to know you've been busy even if it's with those projects we all (well me any way) have a tendency to place on the "round-tuit" list.

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