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Showing results for tags 'dado'.
Found 12 results
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I had built some cabinets last fall and finally started the doors this week. They are a simple flat panel/shaker style but the M&T is a first go for me. It's all done with a dado setup on the table saw. There are a total of 20 doors, with 1/2" overlay. I wanted to share this to let others know that no special jigs are needed to make doors using this method. After ripping the stiles and rails, I made the 1/4" dado groove for the recessed panel and the tenons. Then clamped the stiles to the work table at the proper width. The stiles are not cut to length yet. I measured the length for the rails plus the total 1/2" for the tenon depth. Several trials and small adjustments at the saw to get a decent fit. Cutting the panels to fit and the stiles to length tomorrow and ready for glue up.
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for many years i've had several (3) 1-2-3 blocks in my shop. very handy for checking the zero of the fence, the zero of the miter gauges (with stops for repeated lengths, and also for use as a +1" stop block when cross cutting against the fence. you can get these on eBay for about $18-20 for a pair. i see recently that woodpeckers (think red) has their own version of this common item, calling it a plus 1" block, it's red of course, and they want $30 for one. i think i'll stick with 1-2-3 blocks from eBay. i also have some fractional blocks, 1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" that are very useful for setting the fence with a stacked dado set, and also setting the blade height. don't recall where i got them.
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Nice article featuring Serge Duclos, a very clever guy and shop tips contributor. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/discover/woodworking/2021/january/shop-made-versatile-router-table-sled?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=RouterSledArticle&fbclid=IwAR2MPb0GDd-zSyNSI3nbvEoTmnrse70Uy4nyr40CUF8cPETYEcGR1hBFunw
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I've just received a molder set and dado set; I'm planning to use them on my Shopsmith Mark V/500. I'm wanting to build a rip fence (vertical) extension which can also be used as a sacrificial for work right up against the fence. Right now I'm planning to use a 1 x 8 x 2' piece of lumber and dado out a 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep slot lengthwise where I can mount a pair of featherboards to help control the work as it moves past the heads. I have one featherboard from Shopsmith already; I was planning to mount that horizontally before the blade. Last I checked Rockler had some featherboards on sale; I was going to get two from them and then cut my slot so that they come down within 1/2" of the saw table at maximum extension. First question: Does this sound like a good plan? Second question: What kind of wood would the more experienced hands here recommend? I should be able to get poplar for $7.88, oak for $11.28, and then of course there's always whitewood or softwood. I'm new at this and I'll always be able to go back and re-do it in the future if necessary, but what would the old hands suggest to a beginner?
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Shopsmith Dado Stacks (Sale)
John Morris posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Just received an email for Shopsmith dado stacks, not bad on the pricing! Considering the high quality of their regular table saw blades, I bet these dado sets are pretty nice too. See here at: This Week's Deal! WWW.SHOPSMITH.COM Special Limited-Time Savings From Shopsmith -
I am to groove a solid woood assembly for 3/4" plywood that is actually around .722 to .725. I have found that in Mortise and Tenon joints I alwasy size the tenon .01 smaller than the mortise to allow gule to set up in the joint properly and not get squeezed out. Now comes the dadio joint. If I create the joint a .730 am I defeating my self? That would be +.008 to + .005. Still quite tight fit but is that enough to allow the glue to properly work? Also this is a cross grain joint on veneer plywood. The long grain is 90Deg to each other. Plywood being stable Should I be concerned with expansion and contraction. In the past I set the dadio tight or .725 or 0.000 to .003 loose. That once pounded in squezzed out some glue but has held for years. However that was a plywood to plywood joint. I doubt you could ever see .005 to .008 gap at the intersection but it will be glue tight to the top of the groove. Leaving a little wiggle room on the bottom (hidden). Does the fact that plywood into solid wood change anything?
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Good morning guys, I need to make myself one of these and am wondering you have made one and could share yours? I have looked thru YouTube and have found ones that are super simple from a piece of wood with a screw at one end to some very nice looking ones. The bulk of these videos don't go into the differences and the extra things the "fancier" ones can do. Am leaning towards this one by Mafe, https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/37513.
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Pictures are coming. Hold on.
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Just ran across this video, I'm going to have to try it. The other technique I've seen is to make two L-shaped jigs, Put one on each side of a board to be dadoed. Put your piece to fit in the dado between them and slide them together and clamp in place. Then with a router with a top bearing, zero clearance bit less than but at least half the size of the dado, run across one side and back the other.
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I see where Rockler picked up and is selling that miter dado. I saw vidios of it last year and the guy was just trying out his idea and had a custom ground saw blade made to illustrate his idea. Now I see it has developed into a full dado set. Unique idea, a little spendy, but considering the price of a good dado set and what it will do time saving wise if a person had to make a lot of drawer boxes, say, it might be a good solution. http://www.rockler.com/rockler-miter-fold-dado-set?sid=WC685&utm_source=woodmag&utm_medium=digad&utm_campaign=WC685 Herb
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Well the historic wood pen turning project is moving along, slowly, but moving. Part of the deal was to make two special presentation boxes for those responsible for securing monies. The main turner involved doesn't have many wood working tools so the box making fell on me. No one had a plan as to what they wanted the boxes to look like. OK, I've made some boxes but I don't feel my skills are really up to what I think they should be for this type of project. Especially with this precious wood. My original design was to have the box larger, but the size of the beams and the number of defects, cracks and nail holes reduced it to around 4" x 7"x 1.5". The pieces are 1/4" thick. The old pine is very brittle but it still contained a surprising amount of sap. The number of knots would not allow me to use the planer and get this thickness, so I used my thickness sander. I had to clean the belt 3 time during the thicknessing process to remove the built up pitch. All of the dovetails are hand cut using a Japanese pull saw. The above picture show one of the "hinges". I used tiny cut nails salvaged from the original structure placed into pre-drilled holes. Right now they are just finger tight. The lid lift is also a little nail. I think this one has to be in a little deeper. I hate it that the round hole shows on the front. Although you can't tell from this picture, the bottom is thicker than the dado it fits into (bottom = 1/4" dado = 1/8"). About an inch of the perimeter is tapered to the edge allowing the fit. I'm not sure what to do with the inside. Maybe a couple of "U" shaped risers to hold the pen off of the bottom. Covering the interior would make for a nice contrast but it almost seems sacrilege to hide the patina. At this point, I am stumped on my next step. My original plan was to inlay a "Carpenter's Mark" in the outside of the top. I made an oval inlay pattern and cut a sample from some Poplar to see how it would look- I made certain I salvaged all of the carpenter's marks, before I made the pen blanks from the beam. Now, the problem. The pine is so brittle- even more so near the surface, that I fear the router inlay kit will splinter the the wood. To help strengthen the "mark", I covered the back of the piece with painters tape and saturated it with thin CA. I'll need to stop at Hobby Lobby tomorrow after school and pick up another bottle- thank goodness they send me 40% off coupons every week! So that's where I'm at, with this part- still needs more sanding! I was thinking about making the second box with a "pencil box" sliding lid.
