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  1. I have spent some time this year reworking my shop arrangement. Started with a 60 amp service & this allowed me to move the compressor into an attached shed then hard piped it into the shop. Install a small dust system in the shed and connected my miter saw, belt/spindle sander & a port for my ROS. I passed on things to other people that could use them & got rid of things I haven't or won't need. Consolidated everything to the 3 walls in the shop. I realized during the process that walking around my work bench to get to the other side of the shop just wasn't working anymore,
  2. I'm just getting started in this hobby, but one of the things I know I'll need for the projects* I want to build is a router and router table. My funds are modest, but I'd rather save my pennies for another month or two and get something which will be good for the long haul than just get whatever's on sale at the local big box. I do want quality, but I'm not big into bells and whistles. I generally prefer used and US-made to Cheap Chinese Crap, but good older equipment may be hard to find at a reasonable price and it's possible that I'll want or need some features that the older models may not
  3. Anyone using a sled like this? I like the clear plexi but wonder about using these when doing vertical router table cuts say for lock miter joint or drawer joints? https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/vertex.html This came to mind when I received an Infinity Tools email boasting their vertical sled. Looked online and really don't see plans for building one at all. Infinity's sled is here https://www.infinitytools.com/vertical-router-sled-4576 I also figure that doing vertical cuts like this will require a sacrificial backer board to prevent tearout
  4. These have been out for awhile and came on sale a while back ,so I had to try them out. First picture is the way I usually run trim through the router table, and then the new way. I like the new ones, they do what they are advertised to do. Herb
  5. Forgot about doing this the other day. Did it last winter with mainly scraps I had laying around my shop. Only thing I actually bought for especially for it was the gray paint.
  6. A little while ago I built myself a router table, based on a number of pictures and ideas in magazines. So far I'm happy with it, but I have one question. Many of the pictures show either a T-slot or a miter gauge slot across the table. Do any of you use either of these, and which do you prefer? I can see a use for the T-slot, in mounting a fingerboard, but is a miter gauge really useful on a router table? John
  7. I received the Woodcraft Monthly sale e-Flier a couple of days ago. If you've been looking for a router lift they have the Jessem 02301 lift at a pretty good price; $149.99 Not the top Jessem model, but still a very nice lift especially for the money.. Woodcraft Sale-Jessem 02310 Router Lift Sale
  8. Like many I have a router on the one wing of the TS. And yes it gets in the way sometimes but for larger work it works well. Having been given a Bosch 1604 I saw opportunity in the form of a mini router table. Scanning the shop I found a nice place to stow it away, in the form of a drawer. Lost 3 small drawers but they were only 9 inches wide smaller stuff I can displace, albeit remembering where I did so may be an issue. To make the router lift I am using a small Lab Scissor lift. About 4 inch square with more than enough lift for this task. Put in drawer slides to guide the
  9. I am not in the market for a router table, I sold mine last fall, don't need one, but I just thought I'd share my amazement with what Shopsmith has available for our machines. I did not know they made a router table, very cool. Anyone own one? @Artie ? http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/rm_routertable.htm
  10. Well here we go again. new set of Drawers for my Jessem Router table.
  11. I have been working on upgrading my machine stands with drawers to store things associated with that machine. My latest is the Sliding router table stand.
  12. Here is my new router table system from Jessem. The lift is the Mast-R-Lift I . I have other projects to complete before can start the assembly. It will sit on a moble base and I am going to design and build a storage cabinet between the legs. Thank you for Looking
  13. Came across this today Some may find it useful: One-weekend Router Table - Popular Woodworking Magazine
  14. Went out to Blue Borg today, bought a 1x 6 x 48" Pine board. Figured I could cut out a few parts for the reindeer replacement.... Used an old saw to cut all these out with.. Has a 1/4" blade...should have gotten a 1/8" scrolling blade....no more than i use the saw, meh Had to drill a few ''turn-around" holes, as the blade couldn't quite make some of the turns. Have a 1" x 30" beltsander to remove the saw marks, then I plugged in another power tool.. 1/4" round-over bit. Rounded the outside edges of the parts.....antlers were fun to do....stood all
  15. I had purchased the Porter Cable router with both fixed base and plunge base. I mounted the router in my table. The chips and dust now have a way to get into the space between the router motor and router base. Binding it up terrible. i have to pull out the router and force it to separate every time I need to change the cutter height. Any suggestions on a solution. I thought of a oring that will stick to the motor and will move when the base is moved. But the o-ring just bound up also. I think the rubber sticks to the aluminum too much. I will be getting a better du
  16. I have posted this else where, but for the benefit of those who haven't seen it and are wondering if a router lift can be fitted to a cast iron top, this is how I did it awhile back. I had bought a generic sliding router table awhile back It was a heavy,sturdy table very well constructed. It had a couple of draw backs though. The table tilted up towards the operator, not sure what benefit that was. and the router was extremely difficult to mount under the table. I ended up drilling and counter boring thru holes to mount the motor. Took 2 attempts to get the motor centered in the hole and
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