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Found 25 results

  1. Anyone using a sled like this? I like the clear plexi but wonder about using these when doing vertical router table cuts say for lock miter joint or drawer joints? https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/vertex.html This came to mind when I received an Infinity Tools email boasting their vertical sled. Looked online and really don't see plans for building one at all. Infinity's sled is here https://www.infinitytools.com/vertical-router-sled-4576 I also figure that doing vertical cuts like this will require a sacrificial backer board to prevent tearout which in turn reduces the width of the board these jigs will allow. So just how well would these work? Interestingly I couldn't find any plans to make one of these and I can't see it being that difficult. Any ideas?
  2. Like many I have a router on the one wing of the TS. And yes it gets in the way sometimes but for larger work it works well. Having been given a Bosch 1604 I saw opportunity in the form of a mini router table. Scanning the shop I found a nice place to stow it away, in the form of a drawer. Lost 3 small drawers but they were only 9 inches wide smaller stuff I can displace, albeit remembering where I did so may be an issue. To make the router lift I am using a small Lab Scissor lift. About 4 inch square with more than enough lift for this task. Put in drawer slides to guide the router assembly smoothly up and down. Had to run a 1/4 threaded rod through the front to lock the sled in place after setting the height with the lower adjustment wheel. So far the drawer is made, sits level and has 4 sets of 150lb drawer slides to support it. The sled is made, all the kinks worked out and it now awaits a wheel to attach to the lift and a switch, box and some wiring. While I know 4 inch DC ports and systems are all the rage my shop has 2 1/2 and it works, not going to go through a major refrb at this time. So the port will be for a DC hose but inverted as the side of the drawer has 1/2 clearance so nothing can stick out. Only issue I have not got a working design for is the mechanical locks to keep the drawer from sliding back in while in use. Have two ideas about it that some mock ups will be in order to see how they work. It's coming, but at my typical pace, kinda slow.
  3. I am not in the market for a router table, I sold mine last fall, don't need one, but I just thought I'd share my amazement with what Shopsmith has available for our machines. I did not know they made a router table, very cool. Anyone own one? @Artie ? http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/rm_routertable.htm
  4. Well here we go again. new set of Drawers for my Jessem Router table.
  5. I have been working on upgrading my machine stands with drawers to store things associated with that machine. My latest is the Sliding router table stand.
  6. I received the Woodcraft Monthly sale e-Flier a couple of days ago. If you've been looking for a router lift they have the Jessem 02301 lift at a pretty good price; $149.99 Not the top Jessem model, but still a very nice lift especially for the money.. Woodcraft Sale-Jessem 02310 Router Lift Sale
  7. Here is my new router table system from Jessem. The lift is the Mast-R-Lift I . I have other projects to complete before can start the assembly. It will sit on a moble base and I am going to design and build a storage cabinet between the legs. Thank you for Looking
  8. Came across this today Some may find it useful: One-weekend Router Table - Popular Woodworking Magazine
  9. These have been out for awhile and came on sale a while back ,so I had to try them out. First picture is the way I usually run trim through the router table, and then the new way. I like the new ones, they do what they are advertised to do. Herb
  10. Went out to Blue Borg today, bought a 1x 6 x 48" Pine board. Figured I could cut out a few parts for the reindeer replacement.... Used an old saw to cut all these out with.. Has a 1/4" blade...should have gotten a 1/8" scrolling blade....no more than i use the saw, meh Had to drill a few ''turn-around" holes, as the blade couldn't quite make some of the turns. Have a 1" x 30" beltsander to remove the saw marks, then I plugged in another power tool.. 1/4" round-over bit. Rounded the outside edges of the parts.....antlers were fun to do....stood all the parts up, and placed the antlers in place... Should have used the 3/8" round-over bit. These are just standing there, no nails, nor glue used, yet. Still have enough pine left over for two more.. I might just clean up the old scrollsaw, and see how it works on these. this will do for a start...
  11. I had purchased the Porter Cable router with both fixed base and plunge base. I mounted the router in my table. The chips and dust now have a way to get into the space between the router motor and router base. Binding it up terrible. i have to pull out the router and force it to separate every time I need to change the cutter height. Any suggestions on a solution. I thought of a oring that will stick to the motor and will move when the base is moved. But the o-ring just bound up also. I think the rubber sticks to the aluminum too much. I will be getting a better dust collector shortly but wanted to know if anyone else had this problem and what the solution was. Thanks in Advance.
  12. A little while ago I built myself a router table, based on a number of pictures and ideas in magazines. So far I'm happy with it, but I have one question. Many of the pictures show either a T-slot or a miter gauge slot across the table. Do any of you use either of these, and which do you prefer? I can see a use for the T-slot, in mounting a fingerboard, but is a miter gauge really useful on a router table? John
  13. I have posted this else where, but for the benefit of those who haven't seen it and are wondering if a router lift can be fitted to a cast iron top, this is how I did it awhile back. I had bought a generic sliding router table awhile back It was a heavy,sturdy table very well constructed. It had a couple of draw backs though. The table tilted up towards the operator, not sure what benefit that was. and the router was extremely difficult to mount under the table. I ended up drilling and counter boring thru holes to mount the motor. Took 2 attempts to get the motor centered in the hole and then it was still off center a 1/16"+. Another problem was the top was 1" thick where the motor mounted so it cut down on the depth of the bit height travel significantly. I decided to install a router lift with a aluminum plate instead. I was fortunate enough to obtain a like new Rockler lift for a Bosch 1617 router which I had mounted on this table. After the table was removed from the stand,I marked around the router plate on the lift and drilled holes through the top, at the corners. Then I clamped an angle iron straight edge to the top to guide the cutting wheel. I set the guide 1/16' inside the cutout finish size so I could grind it to finish opening. Then I used the dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut the hole . It took 4 setups to get all sides.. Then I took a grinding wheel on the dremel and ground the hole to size.. After the plate fit the hole I installed some tabs I made to level the plate. I just let the plate "float " and I can lift it out for any reason at any time. I like the muscle chuck so installed that on the motor for quick changing bits with out wrenches. Herb
  14. As I have mentioned, I recently got a new router lift complete with table stand and fence. As with most of us, storage space is premium so I wanted to build storage under the table, between the legs. So, I took two plans that I like and have combined them to get what I want and to fit in the space that I have. It is a work in progress but here is my progress so far: Router Table Assembled, Router Mounted in Lift and whole unit set on a mobile base (note: I lowered the front lower brace to accommodate the storage cabinet) Base made to for the cabinet to set on (brings cabinet bottom up to top of front brace) Some of the parts cut out - ready to dados and rabberts Dry Fit Cabinet - I wanted to get exact dimensions for the upper drawers that will set on each side of the lift. Thank you for looking.
  15. Well, snuck back down to the Dungeon for a bit of fun. Cleaned off the router table. Not too bad? Grabbed a piece of scrap about the same thickness as what I was using for the shelves. Got the height about right. Took apart the shelf unit, and ran some edges Tried to handsaw a couple pilars for the back corners.....gave up, and went to the scrollsaw. Then a block plane to smooth out the cuts. Test fit of the whole mess Hmm, not too bad? Leaning more towards a couple drawers, instead of reusing the glass door. Might be a better fit that way. other that the scrollsaw, and the router table, all else was just a few smallish handtools Includes a small dovetail saw, a chisel, a square, a block plane, and a pencil. The walnut coloured stuff MAY get used, and may not. I have a few other things I could use... Trying to take things a bit easy, but tough to do when I am BORED. Need to sand the parts, and assemble the main part. Then we will see what I can add to this thing. Two days of this so far. Might still be a week in the making...
  16. Router and a SKIL table needed to be some place besides on my tool chest. Still had a couple 3x3 metal posts, and and end panel from a Loft bed. Had a few 12" wide by 1/2" thick plywood scraps, too. Cut the two posts down to 27" or so, whatever to make four "legs". Hacksaw tried to get it square on the end, failed. Grinder and beltsander did make it a little better. Circular saw to cut a few 4" wide strips of plywood. Trimmed down the end panel a bit. Found a box of 1-5/8" drywall screws. Time to make a bench for this thing. Screwed one leg to the plywood strip Found out that IF the screws drill thier own holes in the plywood, then pull the trigger on the drill to "Full Speed Ahead" screws will drill into the metal legs. Three screws per leg joint. Once the front and back assemblies were made, time to add a piece of "grid" I attached this just to the plywood. Note the vise grips? Nice to keep things in place while the screws do their work. Added the other side to the grid Then cut two more strips to length for the ends. High Tech Miter saw to cut things down, again. Then making sure the legs are square, Three screws per leg, but not in a line, staggered a bit. Once both ends were on, stand this thing up on it's own four feet Not too bad, about 27-1/2" high. I like the open grid top. Dust and chips from the router can just fall on through to the floor. Added a couple strips to attach the Router Table unit to the new bench Top of the table is just about the right height. Thinking about adding a lower shelf underneath the top. Maybe add a rack to hold router items? Might need a place to store a few bits, too. Parked the unit out of my way, as i have to lay out stuff for a tool chest chisel rack, to hold the rest of my chisels ( IF I can stop buying them ..) Make an afternoon of screwing around in the shop? Just using up some scraps on hand. Not too bad?
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