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Found 5 results

  1. Good morning guys, I need to make myself one of these and am wondering you have made one and could share yours? I have looked thru YouTube and have found ones that are super simple from a piece of wood with a screw at one end to some very nice looking ones. The bulk of these videos don't go into the differences and the extra things the "fancier" ones can do. Am leaning towards this one by Mafe, https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/37513.
  2. This is the Rob Corson dowel hinge. With a bullnose or ball router bit on a router table the size of the dowel, route a 1/4 round slot in the back of lid and back of box. Set the fence at the center of the bit diameter and run the top and the box through. The fence can be set in or out to suit the particular box and how wide the lid opens. Take a dowel the same size as the router bit and cut lengths to suit the length of the box, they can be the same length or different lengths. Drill a hole in the center of the dowel the size of the pin. The pin can be metal rod, or wooden dowels. Assemble the dowels on the rod, and adjust to the length of the box,marking the positions of the dowel segments on the box and the top. Put a little glue on every other segment on the box. MAKE SURE THE GLUE HAS ROOM TO SQUEEZE OUT AND NOT SQUEEZE INTO THE NEXT DOWEL SPACE. Carefully lay the assembled dowel hinge onto the glue. Carefully set the top on and lightly clamp down When the glue is dry lift off the top and spin the every other dowel. Then apply a small amount of glue onto the free spinning segments of dowels allowing for squeeze out of the glue. carefully set the top on and clamp lightly. Allow the glue to dry. After the glue has set, gently open the box. The Joy you feel when the box opens is beyond description, the sinking feeling if it doesn't is beyond printing. Only had one that didn't open, and I have done a lot of them. You can also wax the pin,if you so desire. Herb
  3. John Morris

    Rocker Slots

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I pre-drilled a hole below the bottom of the legs, and between the saw cut lines, so all I had to do was chop out a little at the top and the rest just fell out, leaving a rough bottom, but workable with a file till it became flat for the rocker to fit into.
  4. Once the blank has the layout lines drawn, it is time to cut the slots for the ellipses. The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 1/16" to 1/8†of material left holding the two sides together. By not cutting through the blank it keeps the pieces aligned during the glue up stage Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front SHORTER layout line is positioned to the LEFT side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standing at the back of the saw looking forward. (These pictures are from the SIDES of the saw). Front of cut located Continue to adjust the angle and the end stop so that the rear LONGER layout line is positioned to the LEFT side of the blade cut. Securely tighten all adjustments. Once these angles/lengths are set, they will not change for all of the remaining cuts. Clamp the blank firmly in the jig. Double check the layout lines. In order to keep the correct orientation of the blank, I labeled the end of the blank nearest me. With everything secure, make the first cut. In the front Out of the rear Unclamp the blank. To make the second cut, I made a space strip to reposition the blank without having to change any of the jig setting. My first guess was that this spacer would be 3/8†thick- the same as the width of the finished cut. BUT that was too thick. I guess there is a way to calculate the thickness but trial and error won out. It came out closer to 1/4†(.265â€). The second cut, to widen the slot, is made with the blank position so that the front LONGER layout line is on the RIGHT side of the saw cut. The rear SHORTER layout line is on the RIGHT side of the saw cut. The walnut spacer strip can be seen between the blank and the fence of the jig. The thickness of the spacer strip could be different for each person. So check the setup carefully. Also, Make sure the blank butts up against the end stop before each cut. Complete the second cut After the second cut has been made, there may be a thin piece of material left in the slot. I made another spacer- about 1/8â€- substituted it for the original spacer and made a third “clean out†pass. The finished cut should be 3/8†wide and almost through the blank. Part 4 will cover the first glue up and trim of the first set of inserts.
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