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Showing results for tags 'blade'.
Found 22 results
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Best brand/supplier for a reciprocating blade
ASteinfield posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Where do you think is the best place where I can get a decent (by decent, I meant cheap and high quality) reciprocating blade. Not quiet sure which brand is the most reliable.- 6 replies
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Harbor Freight Saw Blade Sharpener
John Morris posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
My dad purchased a Harbor Freight Saw Blade Sharpener a couple months ago, and had a hard time setting it up. He stated that his ol brain just doesn't work the best anymore for this sort of stuff, not too mention typically HF directions can be a PITA. So he asked me if I could take it home and set it up for him and show him how to use it. Before I even read the instructions I looked it up on YouTube and it seemed a pretty straight forward contraption to use. It actually came pretty much assembled out of the box. All I had to do was tweak a few of the settings on it to bring it into calibration sort of, then the rest went along pretty smooth. I wasn't going to sharpen any blades here at my home because I own a Shopsmith, I gave all my 5/8" arbor blades away to my dad because I prefer the 1" arbor blades Shopsmith traditionally uses, so my intention was to just set up the system, then take it back up to Dad's and get some of his blades on it and see how it goes. But as I was looking at the set up, I noticed that the self centering cone that goes into the arbor of the blade, and the receiver were pretty large in diameter, so I says to self, "Self, that looks like it may take a standard Shopsmith circular saw blade". And all be danged that it indeed did! So I commenced to sharpening a Shopsmith blade on this system, and in about 6 minutes, I had a really nice sharpened blade, just like new, it was easy to use, intuitive, and fun actually. The only drawback like I stated above, there is some fine tuning that I don't think should have to be done, but it took me about a half hour to tune it up and get it all straight, and it worked like a champ. Motor assembly Saw tooth engaging the emery disk. I can't recommend this system over others, this is the only I have ever used, typically I have sent my blades out, but I'll probably never send another blade out again now, I even called my dad up and told him, hey pops, I'll sharpen all your blades for ya when you need it, and he was thrilled. There is an adjustment for bevel angle, otherwise the face of the teeth are cut perpendicular to the disk as my Shopsmith blades require. Here's a little video my son took of the process in action. Here is another video from a pretty good channel and he reviews this system.
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I have a Shopsmith 18" jig saw that I purchased about 30 yrs ago. I need the round blade guides for the upper and the lower blade supports. It appears to be a composite or phelinoc material and is round and about 1/4" dia. I recently retired and am working on my wood working again. Shopsmith no longer supports the saw, and can't offer any suggestions. I hate to have a tool that can't be used. Does anyone have any solutions? Also what about saw blades? I have tried jigsaw/scroll saw blades but they are very narrow and do not hold very well in the jaws on the saw.
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I got a slew of 'em for my Agazzani but I'm looking for something in particular. I want the finest finish off the saw that I can get. Glueline quality. Do you know a blade, pitch, tooth, geometry, that is good like that? Mostly I run a 1" lennox carbide tipped woodmaster It's pretty good and I may use that but I want a finer cut, really smooth
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I received an email today containing a Newsletter by Hock Tools. The following says: It’s about time for me to re-read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. I rarely read a book more than once, but I’ve read Robert Persig’s profound treatise on the search for the meaning of quality four times, taking something new from it each time. One significant takeaway for me is the elusive nature of the concept of quality. What imbues one thing with higher quality than another? We often know the answer but cannot articulate it. A frustrating intellectual exercise, to be sure. But we know it when we see it, right? I’ve been making and selling blades for hand planes for over forty years. I fell into this high-quality industry quite by accident. That propitious stumble in 1982 suited me; my experiences, abilities, and interests were well served by the straightforward nature of the manufacturing and the eager appreciation of the customers – you. And I’ve been continually dazzled by you for all these years. Our customers are decent, intelligent, high-integrity people. I don’t know how to thank you for your steadfast support over all these years. Linda and I struggled through the start-up learning curve, and the market for hand tools grew, pulling us along to our modicum of success and sense of accomplishment. It would never have happened without Linda, Larry Kellogg in the shop, Julie Burns and Mark Taylor in the shipping department, and the enthusiasm of customers like you. If this sounds like a swan song, it is: Lee Valley Tools is acquiring Hock Tools. Rob Lee has been my friend for many years. And I admire his work and that of the engineers at Veritas. He’s promised to take care of my family name that’s engraved on each product and carry the Hock Tools legacy into the future with the same products, specs, suppliers, etc. Rob wants the transition to be seamless for you, the customer, so we’ll do our best to help him get up and running with our product line. There will undoubtedly be some wrinkles. We ask for your patience while we iron them out. We hope to finalize the transition by the first of March, but that’s a flexible deadline. And we won’t just disappear – come say hi at Handworks. We’ll proudly be in the Lee Valley booth. Linda and I thank you from the bottom of our hearts for your loyalty and enthusiasm all these years. We’re looking forward to new creative pursuits and unstructured time to engage in them. But, for now, I’ll find a copy of Zen and the Art -- and start a new chapter.. Ron Hock Hock Tools
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BT130 Nutool Thicknesser Planer
paulski36 posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Hi i have an old bt130 Nutool thicknesser planer it needs new blades but can anyone please tell me what height they should be set at as it came with no tools many thanks -
Workbench Magazine January-February 1968 Planer Blade Sharpener
John Morris posted a topic in Plans and Software
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I would appreciate anyone that would have a spare blade for a Millers Falls #2 spokeshave to contact me. I lost the one I had.
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I finished up some lap joints on pine 1x2, and realized my bandsaw blade was twitching. How'd I do this? Is there a way to bend it back? (Red line added for clarity) It really looks wicked when running. (picture is composite of the two bends, which are adjacent as shown)
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While rearranging one of my work bench drawers, I came across what is obviously a plane iron, but it doesn't fit any of my planes. Does anybody recognize this iron, or have any idea of what brand, make, model, etc of plane it might belong to? The blade is 3 5/8" long by 2" wide by 1/8" thick. The only plane I have that uses an iron even close to that short is a cheap Harbour Freight plane I purchased to make into a scrub plane, and this iron is just a hair too wide to fit that body, and nothing in that blade matches up to the adjustment mechanism for that plane. Any ideas?
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I have been using a Woodworker II for quite a few years and it has served me well. Well almost. I returned it to the factory for sharpening and they blew it. I sent it back and they did it again. Each time they left silver solder bubbles on the teeth they replaced. The saw blade has never been the same. Any way my subject is; If you was going to buy a good 10" combination table saw blade, what would it be? Would it be thin or thick cerf? I'd like to get it for a reasonable price too. I paid $120 for the old one and I would like to get a nice one for a lot less. Since sharpening is costly and may not come back sharpened properly I'd rather just buy a new on Your thoughts are appreciated
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Guys, I need to improve the quality of blade for my Stanley #7, I've tried everything to fix the cap iron re-beveled it sharpened to not allow any light thru but the chips still get in between. Thinking of getting a set of Hock pieces was looking for input or/and a good place to buy. Best price quick shipping and so on. Thanks Pat
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I posted this picture a few years ago and I thought with all the new members, I'd post it again. I just wonder how much that thing weighs. thisiscarpentry.com
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Shopsmith Dado Stacks (Sale)
John Morris posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Just received an email for Shopsmith dado stacks, not bad on the pricing! Considering the high quality of their regular table saw blades, I bet these dado sets are pretty nice too. See here at: This Week's Deal! WWW.SHOPSMITH.COM Special Limited-Time Savings From Shopsmith -
Need to make a few of these by you know when....I" thick maple is way too think for these small skinny letters..did some resawing to make sure when I cut out one of these letters I will be able to push it out one direction or the other.. These are a few of the resawed 12"x12" I needed for these logo's. Even though my maple has been in my shop for about 15 years and when I bought the large amount of the ruff lumber they said it had been milled some 10 years before the auction.. But any time I resaw 1" lumber I am parting some wood that has never been out in the air so I take no chances for warping to take place. I clamp it up so it will all stay straight until I start using it.. Now I'm waiting on some real small blades which has been ordered way too long and not gotten here yet...I hope they don't have to drive over to Germany to pick them up... They should have had them in stock anyway... The letters are only about 1/2" tall so I gotta hide the booze for the next few days. These shaky hands needs to calm down... I've cut out some of the bigger items and I might add when cutting things like this, once you start sawing, don't stop until you get back to the starting point cause if you do it will show up big time. I also have found over the years to get the best results I only go in one direction..that means I'm always turning the wood clockwise as I saw.... One good thing about using decient blades is when I finish scroll sawing I never have to give any attention to the flat areas the blade cut only the edges might need rounding a hair or not depending on the look a person is after. The blades make the flat areas smoother than what a person can make them with sand paper. If the blades are used too long a smell of burnt wood will give you a hint and burn marks will start to appear.. I've been using blades that are .013 wide and am waiting on some .011 wide. I've never cut out anything like this for the letters are out in the middle of no where so mistakes will show big time...
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To start the "Tips and Tricks" off on a good note, I thought of what basics we should all be aware of and some tips to make the best cuttings we can. Remember, guys and gals, there is NO right or wrong answer to any of our topics. What best works for you is the way it should be. That being said, I think we can always learn a little from our fellow scrollers. Please chime in with your suggestions of your ways of doing things. It will always be appreciated by all. BLADE ALIGNMENT We all realize that the blade should be perpendicular to the table unless we are doing angle cuts. Great blade alignment is "required" in stack cutting (which we discuss later). What we don't normally check is front to back alignment, "fore/aft" movement of the blade, and "wobble". Â Let's take them one at a time and see what we can come up with. LEFT/RIGHT ALIGNMENT I have seen several ways, over the years. Â Most of them work pretty well. I use a machinest's right angle to set my blades. Â However, for some reason, this doesn't always work on my machine. Cut into a block of wood, back it out of the kerf, move the cut to the back of the blade and see it lines up. Using a scrap piece of 3/4" stock, cut a piece out, then move the cut side to the opposite side of the blade and see if it is aligned. Cut a small circle out of 3/4" stock and see if the bottom and the top of the hole are the same size. FORE AND AFT ALIGNMENT I generally use the machinest square for this one. BLADE WOBBLE This is when the blade moves either left or right from the top to the bottom of the cut. Problem could be either rails bent, misalignment of machine, or as simple as alignment in the blade holders. Need much more help on this one. YOUR IDEAS ? ? ? ? ? ?? The Eclipse scroll saw is the only saw that I know of that has solved the above problems. This saw design has gone back to some "ole timey" machines. Belt driven, with a "perfectly aligned" plunger system.
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Cleaning up my garage today, I was going through my blade collection. I've had this blade hanging on my wall for about 15 years. I never could figure out the oversized arbor hole. Till now! Seems my Shopsmith destiny was written long ago! Note logo at top. Just today I noticed the logo.
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First of all, when I use the term "trimming", to me, it means making the cut just a little bit wider. In scrolling there is no "untrimming" Let me put a picture up that might help: The red line is the blade and the blue line is my cut. I am cutting on 3/4" maple with some pretty hairy cuts. The blade I chose is a Flying Dutchman UR3. As you can see, the needed cut is a little over twice the width of the blade. My first cut is down the left side from A to B. Then I back the blade up and "trim" the right side from A to B. This was working great until, all of a sudden, this didn't work any more. Couldn't perform the task. SOOOOO, being the resourceful guy I am (and cheap) - (ops - meant frugal), instead of changing the blade I tried reversing the procedure. First cut down the right side and then followed up on the left side. Worked like a charm. OK, guys, what changed??????????????
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Scroll saw blade question
PostalTom posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
I have a question about scroll saw blade nomenclature. I am doing a project that requires some scroll saw blade work, and the plans specify a #2 reverse tooth scroll saw blade. I understand the reverse tooth, but what does the #2 signify? I was looking at a scroll saw blade selection chart on the Olson blade web site, and every specification that I could imagine was listed on the chart, along with a Universal Number column. Any ideas? -
Picked this "gem" today while on a rust hunt....yes I found rust, too... That is the blade that was with it. There is a thumbscrew to tighten things in place... It has a smooth, curve "bottom" Those "teeth" on the blade are not from a breakage.. They have been filed that way. The only markings seems to ba a "Patented DEC (#) 15......as in Dec of 1915. The "day" part is a bit scratched up. One other edge is straight (almost) and the other has a slight curve to it. Thumbscrew seems to match a Stanley made one. What is it?
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Just wanted to throw another topic out there for us to discuss. Blade Preparation. Do you do anything to your blades when you put a new one in your saw? Most of the time, I DO prep the blade. Our blades are fresh from the factory and usually contain all kinds of stuff on them - even though the manufacturers do a great job of getting 99% of it off. Probablyh even chromium blades have stuff on them. The blades are secured in our machines by friction - meaning we tighten the screws down onto the blades tightly. I see quite a few threads about blades coming loose at all the wrong times (Murphy's Law). That being said, I have gotten into a routine of prepping my blade before inserting a new one. Let me explain: 1. Cleaning top and bottom (especially bottom). I have my Dremel tool hanging on a nail right close to my saw. Use it mainly to get rid of any feathers I might find (saves me from getting up to get it ). I use it to also clean both sides of my blades (as shown in the pictures below. By doing this, I get rid of any residual oils and crud that may be on the blade itself and there by not transferring any to the screw heads. Keeps the blades good and secure when cutting ( don't come loose any more). The blade on the left is fresh out of the factory bag and the one on the right is shined up. Takes about 5 seconds to do both sides. 2. The blades have a square end on them. When putting a #3 blade into a #60 pilot hole don't ya see. (Hense, putting a square peg into a round hole.) Of course, I have come up with a quick way to take care of this as well. Whilst having my trusty Dermel in my hand, I simply "shave" off a little steel on one side. Makes it a whole lot easier to insert. See pix below. 3. And finally - our blades also have a square back on them. Sometimes these are very sharp when cutting tight corners and will, therefore, try to cut into the wood. Quite often, this dull cutting edge might burn the wood. How do I prevent this, you ask? By "honing" the back edge when first putting the blade in and tightening it down. Takes only a minute of your time but well worth it in my opinion. I keep a little "diamond" honing pad next to the machine, turn the saw on, lay the pad next to the blade, a little on each back edge and it's done. Hope this helps some folks out that may be experiencing these problems. OF COURSE, comments are always enjoyed on this forum. We want to know what Y'ALL think, too. Ciao - back to make some talcum power sawdust.
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TS Blade Guard from Shop Notes
John Morris posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
We were approached by a viewer at Lumber Jocks asking for the Shop Notes plans to build this guard at http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46742 The member on LJ's is our own Mike Dillen, he has the signature with our community site in it, how cool is that, so the fellow who contacted us asking for the Shop Notes edition with the plans, is under the impression he can see the plans from us, I know it's confusing, but hey, we want to help the fellow. Apparently he tried getting in touch with Mike, but had no luck. So now he's asking us, he is a woodworker in Mexico, they don't have much down there in the way of woodworking retail stores, so he wants to build his own guard. Any help is appreciated!
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