@Wichman3 I still think it could be teak but you say it isn't hard. Teak is hard. The only other wood it reminds me of is Mahogany.

According to Google lens, that could be palm wood

I would go with mahogany or one of the many tropical woods that look like it - any of the Khaya species, Meranti, etc.

The teak I've worked was surprisingly soft. Easiest way to identify it in working is it dulls everything and does so really fast, and loads up sandpaper even faster. Oiliest wood I ever used. Distinctive smell too, not like any other wood. A little like a tire store smell, but sharper and less acrid, and less synthetic.

The super hard version may be Rhodesian teak. Not really teak but an African legume tree. Nice stuff from what I've read, never had a piece of it however.

Edited May 7May 7 by JWD

@JWD the teak that I currently have is so hard I could drive a nail with it. You're so right about Teak wood dulling blades. This is primarily because it contains high levels of silica (microscopic mineral deposits) and natural oils. And it does smell strange.

The density difference could be plantation vs forest growth maybe? Stuff I used was almost certainly plantation grown. It was from a lumber yard in the early 2000's, and though absurdly cheap by today's standards, it was the first time I paid over $10/bdft for RWL lumber, it was about $20/bdft as I remember.

Density of it was about like cherry as I recall (I still have some scraps, since I never seem to throw away stuff 😀 so I could weigh a chunk and come up with a rough density). Tensile strength is awful - I later made a hammer handle out if a scrap and broke it within a week. Not in use, I dropped it through an opening in a roof, roughly 12' drop and it snapped right below the head. Made the next one out of hickory 😀

I have a chunk set aside for a gunstock, which I may or may not ever finish. It's pretty enough wood so I might.

@JWD Teak Janka Rating: Typically 1,000–1,155 lbf; some sources cite up to 1,260 lbf, classifying it as a strong, durable hardwood. Maple is 1450 lbf. So next to maple it's soft. But heck.. Mine is very hard. An old furniture maker gave it to me. Told me it came from an old table. It's pretty grain but the dust is lethal and dulls tools fast as you said. I used some as boxing on some of my moulding planes. It works well because of the natural oils in it. But to be honest I don't like working with it.

Probably is the plantation vs wild thing then.

Currently on the bench...

Wentworth No. 1, needed a good cleaning, after sitting up on a shelf for over a year ( I think)

1st Customer soon arrived..

Disston made for Diamond Edge Tools Panel saw.....means I needed to add a small handle to a NEW 6" XX Slim Taper file...and 10 minutes later...

Hang up the file, as the saw has been sharpened up...done did.

Before that? Well....after a few attempts to get the depth setting about right..

Craftsman (Sargent & Co. No. 409 BL) seems to be working as intended..just your average $5 plane..

@steven newman wow nice saw vise! Hard to find those now. Wish I had one. However...I made one for my Moxon vise. Here it is:

20 minutes ago, steven newman said:

Currently on the bench...

I remember using a similar one in my vocational course during high school. We had to learn to sharpen saws by hand.

About the mystery wood. Cuts easier than the Siberian elm I have, about the same blade life, has an "earthy" smell (fresh cut), but readily absorbs water (little to no oils in the wood).

Also have a Disston No. 3 Saw vise.....the one with the "C Clamp" to attach to a bench...

This can tilt front to back..

Try this one...

Currently on the Bench..

Not very much, at the moment....need room to work on installed a pair of hinges..

On to a small box..

Maybe later, today?

We'll see....on a Monday? Hmmm....

Hinges were counter sunk.....drawer front got a beveled edge.....feet have been installed...and a glue up was made

Mitre joints were done with a cordless Mitersaw

Stanley No. 346..

Hinges needed counter sunk..cleaned up the cordless drill,Stanley Handyman No. 1253 and that bit..

Nice part about one of these, you can count the revolutions to get to the same depth each time, in this case...18 full turns.

Braces are great for Counter Sinks

One of these days I’ll get one of those fancy new fangled cordless mitre saws too.

Working on fitting the trays for my Luthier's Tool chest. Had to stop; rain rolling in.

I'm gonna show you fellas my first bowtie 😁 There is some come along pics in this thread somewhere, but long story short it's on my buddy's barnwood euro mount board. When I started to chisel out my area for the bowtie I had some pretty significant chip-out along the edges. I ended up with a larger hole than needed. No problem, I filled in with wood chips and glue and called it good. Got the belt sander out the other day knocked back the excess. This is the equivalent to those ugly dog contest on the internet 😅 Ultimately the twist was what was really on my nerves and what I wanted to resolve and that it did. The bowtie is the back anyway and won't show so I'm good. Attached the tiger maple shelf this evening. I'll do some sanding staining and blending shortly. I used 3 dowels.

Edited June 25Jun 25 by aaronc

Not bad for the first time ‘round. At least it’s functional, work on the cosmetics later. Interesting idea with the dowels, never seen that before.

46 minutes ago, Zack said:

Not bad for the first time ‘round. At least it’s functional, work on the cosmetics later. Interesting idea with the dowels, never seen that before.

Thanks, would have been a little better with more stable material but it'll do the job. I like using dowels of various sizes for securement on lots of things. My buddy used them for plug securement on powder horns, I've been using them since. I like the utilitarian look it gives.