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Found 10 results

  1. A problem that occurs occasionally is to have a natural or oops created hole in a hollow form that you do not want to leave as a hole. Now the question is "do I fix it and if so HOW?" The answer is use a balloon . Find a balloon that will fit inside the piece and inflate it inside the apply filler of your choice to the outside. As an alternative you can use a plastic bag inside and fill it with sand.
  2. Hello, I am to the stage of finishing the kitchen cabinets I have been making for my sister ski condo. In the first time in my woodworking life, I have purposefully attempted to contain as many knots in the wood to make it rustic. The wood I have used to make them is rustic hickory. I need to fill most of the knots before I can finish with a clear coat. I have seen some YouTube videos of filling gaps with black tinted epoxy. This is what I know; you put tape on the back of the board to keep the epoxy in the gap and mix up black epoxy and pore it in the knots or gaps. Has anyone out there done this? I need some pointers where to get the epoxy and the black colorant. Best regards, Ron
  3. Greetings all. Quick question here ( I hope). I am building a butcher block rolling island for my daughter (which many of you helped me with in the design stage). During the thickness planing stage on the butcher block top, I got a couple small tear out spots which are too deep to sand out. I was thinking that I could fill the depressions with some epoxy. I have never had to use epoxy and am looking for any suggestions any of you may have as to any preferences you may have. Don't need more than a tablespoon so no large quantity needed. And will epoxy take mineral oil "finish" ok? Thoughts? And as always, thank you in advance for any assistance. Gary
  4. Working with some beautiful apple, I am really struggling to minimize and correct for tear out in a turned vessel. Sharp tools, decent sanding, cabinet scrapers.. There are just a few places that won't smooth out. I've put on methyl cellulose sanding sealer to stabilize and fill in a bit. It helps a lot, but still isn't where I want it to be. What are my options at this point? Would I dare fill in with gel epoxy, after sanding most of the cellulose sanding sealer off? Or just keeping putting on more sealer or laquer? Just as an aside, it is an oblong vessel, warped a lot more than any other wood while drying such that I can not get a round vessel out of it. It looks more like an Indian pot, so I hope to go with that motif. Thanks.
  5. This piece of Acrylic was full of small holes and issues. I filled them with JB and turned a couple of times. I mixed it so it was darker when it dried and lighter too. It came out good. I added some Blood wood (I think it was because it was soft) This was a learning lesson and I plan to use it again. When I turned it with my carbide tools, it came off in a powder, rather than a stream. I may have to spend an hour cleaning up all that plastic. It went everywhere
  6. I had a small piece left over from my last turning of acrylic and decided to experiment with JB Weld. I drilled some holes in the piece that had a lot of chip outs and small holes. I did not make much effort to make sure holes were filled. When I turned it, it seemed softer than the acrylic and turned easily. No problems and it held in place really well. The trimmings were slightly magnetic, but you could easily blow them off a magnet. It did not polish like the acrylic and I did not use a finish as I sometimes do. I will use it again, probably as feature within the piece. It also help a lot if your project is nearly the same color as JB Weld
  7. I started working on a piece that has acrylic on each end with Ebony in the center. First the Ebony had a hidden crack (very hard to see a crack on something so black) and part of it flew out. I can salvage it. Then the Acrylic has lots of small holes and a few bigger ones. It appears that the whole piece is full of faults. Is there anything I can fill those holes with to get back to a smooth finish. I don't think epoxy will work, it can't take heat. Will CA glue and soda work?
  8. Decided to make some potpourri bowls for my brothers and sisters for Christmas this year. I had some 1 3/4" Poplar 6" wide and glued two pieces together to make 6"X3.5" bowls. I have been seeing air freshener beads in the stores and decided to use them for the fragrance. I found some aluminum cups to hold the beads since there is moisture involved and hollowed out the bowls to fit them and put a recess for the covers too.
  9. As many of you may know, I have pretty much sworn off stain and like to use dye instead. The down side of dye is that wood fillers don't take dyes well so you really have to make sure you have tight joints. Late last week I was building a couple of flag cases (one cherry and one poplar) and I had a 45 degree miter that wasn't as tight as I liked so I've fretted and stewed all weekend about how to filler the slight crack. After some experimentation, I finally mixed a little dry aniline dye granules with some 2 part epoxy. The epoxy took the dye well. I sanded the case to 240 grit and misted it with water to raise the grain and then hit it with 400. Then I mixed the epoxy and filled the crack. After a couple of hours, I resanded it with 400, re-wet the case and put 2 coats of W.D. Lockwood dye on it. I liked the way it filled and it is invisible. I'm now a believer. Before After
  10. I just made a small vase out of spalted wood. Over the years I have turned some rough grained wood that had open spaces and areas that I'd like to fill to a smooth finish that does not cover up the wood grain or look out of place. I have tried several things to achieve that, including epoxy and some super glue. So far my results have only been just ok, not great. Any suggestions. Maybe I used the right approach, but my methods were wrong. Thanks
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