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Ornament with grain filler

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I finished the ornament that I experimented with the grain filling finish that uses ultraviolet light to harden. It was a big learning lesson and I do like it. I made some mistakes and had to refinish and then I made more mistakes. I did redo it three times, each time experimenting with artificial light and sunlight. While the artificial light did work to harden it, the sun is FAR better. After I applied the liquid finish, hardened it (it's not really very hard) I hand sanded to avoid heat. Then I applied my final finish spray. 

 This piece looks OK, because I did not want to keep working on it, for fear of damaging part of it.  The next piece, I will be a lot smarter.  

 You could only use this finish on small projects or small areas of a larger piece, the cost would be high. I got a 4 oz bottle for 12 or 13 bucks. That should last me a long time with the small things I make on my mini lathe

This enlarged picture makes it look really large, actually,  it is 3 inches long

fullsizeoutput_11e5.jpeg

Edited by Ron Altier
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15 minutes ago, lew said:

Maybe it's my computer but I can't get the image to load.

Working now! That's pretty!!

Beautiful work of art.  NICE!!!!!:TwoThumbsUp:

Don't know if it is the finish or you are just getting better . Like it very much

That looks super Ron!

If you cure it with the UV light will it continue to harden with normal light?  You have said sunlight cures it better, do you actually have to find "sunlight" like a window, or will normal home lighting work to harden it?  Does temperature have any bearing on the speed of curing?

  • Author
4 hours ago, Cal said:

That looks super Ron!

If you cure it with the UV light will it continue to harden with normal light?  You have said sunlight cures it better, do you actually have to find "sunlight" like a window, or will normal home lighting work to harden it?  Does temperature have any bearing on the speed of curing?

I don't know about continued exposure to the sun, I've always avoided the sun with my small pieces. However I may try a test piece. The direct sunlight has the most effective ultraviolet light, but I'm sure it would harden without direct sunlight. i.e. You can get a sunburn on a cloudy day. I set my pieces in a window besides my wife's plants. When I used the finish in my garage where the temperature was about 45 degrees, it did not flow to a smooth finish as I wanted. It did harden with the ultraviolet flashlight, but I wasn't pleased with the results. Wavey.

 Another question is durability, only time and exposure will tell. Does it yellow? Does it peel? etc. If you used this to  to fill pores in a small area on a large piece, will it last as long as the rest of your finish? Lots of questions.

Add to that if you only fill pores , can another finish be applied over it?

  • Popular Post

Gerald if you color the grain a different color different than the base coat like this2141662929_WoodbroughtbackfromGermanygrowingalongtheBlueDanube.jpg.b3a5a3e88a218b5ff26f41e457449d69.jpg

 

or this378270241_Ihopetheydontcoveritupwithquilts.jpg.49323a5c8468db58fcbf663714536d6d.jpg

 

or this1268926685_woodfrommars.jpg.ce29fe0d4544930abc499682c2d172b2.jpg

 

then yes after your base coat dries I spray the base coat with a clear coat, let dry then rub on what will be a different color in the grain and before the grain coat sets up I use my hands first and rub off most of the grain color drying my hands often and keep rubbing till all the grain coat if off of the base coat, let dry then clear coat it all with a few clear coats...

 Since I use lacquer mostly the first coat base coat is lacquer and let dry the I switch to a water base color for what will the in the grain...If you are using a good open grain wood like oak, walnut, or ash then you can leave lots of actual wood color showing if your base coat is not solid paint like on this last sample...

  Its tricky when using lacquer with water base colors in between coats of lacquer so make sure the water base stuff if dry dry  before the final coats of clear lacquer goes on …

   Now,  if you were asking a different question just ignore what I typed and pretend it didn't happen...

   On the coat rack the grain under the wine colored end pieces I wanted the effect of veneer having been added to the ends was the reason I filled the grain with a dark color before I sprayed every thing with clear lacquer.

 

 

It looks very perfect.  I can spot no mistakes.  You did a great job.

  • Author
20 hours ago, Gerald said:

Add to that if you only fill pores , can another finish be applied over it?

I use this finish on raw, sanded wood, after hardening, sand it down, reuse if necessary, sand it down again with  400 grit to a smooth finish, then I use 0000 steel wool........all by hand. Then I spray with my Rustoleum 2X Gloss clear spray from  HD. It dries like glass.

One thing that makes it easy for me is that my projects (so far) are very small. I don't think it would be much of a problem as a filler, but until someone tries on a larger project, we can only speculate.

 

Another trick I uses on these ornaments.....I use a piece of string to suspend the ornament, twist the string many times and then spray as the piece turns unwinding the string. This makes for even coverage and avoids downward drip. Don't over spray or you can get into trouble too. This spray dries VERY quickly.....couple of twists/spins after spraying and it sets enough not to run.

Edited by Ron Altier
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