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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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Found 68 results

  1. Cutting, shaping, joinery, glue up and assy I can get that. If I mess up I just make another piece. But when all of that is done after maybe 50 hours of work and it is sitting there awaiting finish - I freeze. One mistake here and the entire project can turn into $250 in hard wood and 50 hours into tragedy. Am I mental? This is of course not at all out of the question. Is this typical or is it just me. Spray on - wipe on - brush on. Poly, oil, shellac, varnish, stain, polyshades. Uneven finish, runs, streaks. At times it feels like I am in a zombie movie and all of these issues are out to get me. So, I sit and look at the project in all of its unfinished glory and the more I look at it the more it seems it is looking at me and waiting.
  2. I have been experimenting with the UV clear finish that dries in seconds when exposed to a UV light or the sun. The sun. is much quicker. I got a surprise when I coated this ornament and took it to the sun. The Walnut looks normal, until it is exposed to the sun and then turns purple, (almost glows) but returns to normal again when out of the sun. It is the only wood so far that does that. Can anyone guess what I turned into this piece in the center. It is chrome like and comes from a entirely different source and I wondered "What if?"
  3. I put some Yellow Heart and Bloodwood (I think) together for a bell ornament. Things didn't go as I wanted, so I made changes as I went. I used the ultra violet finish on it and in some ways it is great, other ways no so good. It is somewhat thick and I applied it on the turning (by hand) lathe with a brush until smooth. Then kept turning it by hand while having a small ultra violet light on it. I did half harden and I was not pleased. I took it outside in the sun and got good results. It did have some uneven places, so I returned it to the lathe for sanding, mostly hand turning the lathe and smoothing by hand. This stuff is soft and any heat or over sanding could remove or damage it. A recoating and return to the sun made it look good. I'm still 100% sold on the stuff, but am liking it better.
  4. So a while back I asked the question, "what can seal turned mugs that is good to use for both hot and cold beverages?" After quite a bit of research and asking around, I think I have found the answer. You guys feel free to correct me if I am wrong g or sharing wrong information. The answer actually came by a person who turns mugs for renfairs (probably didn't spell that right.) He said "Brewer's Pitch" I did more research to see if this was correct and everything I found said it was. ( we are talking about internet so... please feel free to correct me. I ordered a pound worth of this stuff from the specific site which was about 30 dollars. Turns out it is basically pine resin/pitch. So now being me I am thinking self can't you just make your own as I am surrounded by pines. Lol maybe i will. I am all for learning new things especially things that our ancestors practiced.
  5. From the album: Spoon Carving

    A friend of mine at work gave me tree limbs that he cut from his Japanese Silk tree, and I found some nice wood in those limbs. Just finished this large cooking spoon this afternoon and put the first coat of "Tried and True" on it. My third attempt carving spoons from green wood. It's getting addictive.
  6. I'm still working on how to finish the inside of vessels. Still looking for tips and wisdom. Somebody posted some wisdom here a few months ago that for a vessel with smaller than a five inch opening, people don't or can't look inside that well to see the finish. I think there is truth in that. From that post, I have tried black gesso on the inside but struggle with its sturdiness with any use. It is basically an acrylic paint, from my understanding. Here, I used a cobblestone spray paint. It adds a sturdy texture to the inside that contrasts with the super smooth outside. My artsy friends really like it, and it is a whole lot easier than trying to finish the inside as smooth as the outside. I'd still like to hear from others about how they finish the inside of vessels with small openings.
  7. I'm pleased with this bowl for several reasons: . The white oak was rescued from a lumber sawyer's waste pile . The wood works wonderfully well. . I happened to hit the right spot to get the crotch part centered in the bottom. Finished with golden oak Watco and 2000 grit wetsanding.
  8. I’m wanting to use a salad bowl finish, by general finishes. I’ve used it before, but I always get a mediocre mat finish. Is there a way to make it have a better sheen? Or maybe some other type of food safe finish?
  9. I have been hearing about the problems created by using steel wool in water based finishes. Does anyone have a picture of the rust in the finish? I am wondering if I cold purposely do that and create a unique finish. Are there problems with the finish coming off or flaking?
  10. I just made a small vase out of spalted wood. Over the years I have turned some rough grained wood that had open spaces and areas that I'd like to fill to a smooth finish that does not cover up the wood grain or look out of place. I have tried several things to achieve that, including epoxy and some super glue. So far my results have only been just ok, not great. Any suggestions. Maybe I used the right approach, but my methods were wrong. Thanks
  11. I don't know if this belongs here but it is about turning. I am finishing a piece (colored ply) and it has tiny tare out holes. What finish would you use to fill them? (or tiny cracks) I normally use HUT friction finish. Thanks
  12. Twenty shopping days left until Christmas, just saying... Please don't forget that we are in the midst of our Adopt a Wounded Warrior Family project. We have exceeded our goal!!!! But, if you haven't added your contribution, it will make their Christmas just that much more memorable! Our Patriot Turners- New member @Masonsailor posted an awesome turning that will be part of a larger "Lazy Susan". Check out his post and some of the fabulous comments by our members- @FlGatorwood saved Thanksgiving, at his house, this year. What do you do when you need to mash taters and there's no masher? You make one!!! Check out how he did this in his post- @Bundoman is up to his mask in snowmen! Look at this plethora of little fellows (and ladies)! He received lots of great comments on these turnings- @Ron Altier showed us a new finish for his ornaments. The finish is hardened by sunlight- He explains more in this post- What’s Coming Up- Moving on down the west coast, here's a centrally located turners club- Click on the above image for the link to their web site. For The Newbies- Easy Wood Tools @Jim from Easy Wood Tools in conjunction with Tracey Malady, has a video demonstrating bowl turning using their product. You can see just how "Easy" these tools are to use! Expand Your Horizons- One more sea urchin ornament. This one is a bird house ornament by Mike Peace. New Turning Items- How about a jumbo drive spur!? This one is from Nova. Check out this link for more information- https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-jumbo-drive-center-sku-9087/ Everything Else- Here's a chance to look at some awesome ornaments and vote for the one you like the most. I've been putting the new lathe through its paces. Continuing to work on Christmas bowls. The inside of each is turned and sanded. Now removing the tenon and finishing up the bottom. One of the turnings is destined to become a lidded vessel. The maple blank is roughed out and affixed to a glue block using a paper joint. Once it is finished, everything will get a mineral oil/beeswax finish. Safe turning
  13. I'm trying out a new finish on ornaments with coarse wood or spalted wood, as in this case. It is a finish that hardens in the sun in 3 minutes or with an ultraviolet light. I used some spalted maple and the pieces I chose got bad as I turned. That is when I put them aside, didn't like them. I read about a finish that is for coarse wood. I think I paid $14 for it. I got out the old course ornaments and applied it with an old artists brush. I hung them in the sun for 5 minutes, wanted to make sure. I sanded with 400 sandpaper and 0000 steel wool. Then I sprayed clear finish on them. I am very pleased, they came out very good and you have to look very close to see faults.
  14. All please see the latest magizne from Fine Woodworking. Essentially I used the same receipe before and it works great. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/10/17/finish-recipe-a-warm-finish-for-white-oak
  15. Does anyone have any plans (here we go again) for a portable or knock down spray booth? Small projects that can be sprayed from an aerosol can are no problem, but sometimes I would like to be able to use a spray gun on larger projects. My shop is in the basement, so I would need a way to capture or exhaust the fumes safely. This would be in a hobbyist, and not a production scenario. And no, I have not yet checked out local zoning issues, I would do that before implementing a system that seems viable.
  16. Teri Chapman

    Finish?

    Hi! I am going to refinish a child's rocking chair for my granddaughter, but I'm not real experienced with this stuff, so I'm needing to ask a couple questions. What type of top coating finish is usually used on children's furniture? Here are a couple pics of the rocker i have. Can anyone tell what the finish might be, so I know what kind of stripping agent to use. Could it be laquer or varnish? Thanks for any help y'all can give me! Teri
  17. So I had asked about finishing shop cabinets and so on and I decided that I would finish some of mine starting with the large miter station. I've taken the Bosch ROS and sanded the top sections with 400 grit. I used these tack clothes I got but have to admit I've never used a tack cloth before so I was surprised that they have a waxy feel to them. I had vacuumed them first and then used the tack cloth and did see the cloth loading some. Is there a residue left by the cloth?Is the surface now ready for finish? The finish I have to apply is General Finishes High Performance Satin water based top coat. My understanding is to apply the 1st coat using the sponge type brush, let dry several hours, sand w/400 grit lightly, vac and wipe with tack cloth, apply 2nd coat. Repeat for at least 3 coats but likely up to 5. Considering the type of use I'll probably do 5 coats and for the hanging cabinets probably just the three coats. For the record the tack clothes are Crystal Tack Cloth bought here. Any advice welcomed. The miter station can be seen here
  18. Made a new lidded pot for the wife. Not sure what is going on with the finish. The base is padauk. The lid is lace wood. The finish on the lid was like glass. I put one coat of beeswax and one coat of Shellawax. Now there are spots on the lid that look rough.
  19. When using a ploy that is water based I can stand there and watch it dry but how do dustprooof the finishing room. The waterbone has lots of dimples from dust. I will sand them smooth and try again. Any advise appreciated.
  20. Please see the below where I have unstainable squigles in the raised panel. Probably glue line or squeeze out. Do I dare to strip and sand out risking cutting thru the veneer? Maybe a brown and black sharpe? Need your help!
  21. PeteM

    "3X" poly

    Varithane (HD) has a new poly, water based, marked "3X". Supposedly three times the dried thickness. I'm trying it out, and it seems OK, although I've thinned it with about 10% water (it's chilly here, need flow). It's thick, white, creamy, sticky.... I think I'll stop at that.
  22. I have an idea of what might be best for this project but want some opinions. Have a possible project coming up to make from 12 to 16 offering plates. Hopefully this will be in white oak even tho the pews are red oak. I want the finish to be reparable and yet sturdy. These are the finishes I am considering: 1. Poly; durable but more difficult to repair 2. Lacquer; reparable but not as durable as some other finishes to constant handling 3. Tru Oil ; very durable and supposed to be easily repairable, and maybe easy to apply .No longer available in aerosol. 4. WHAT is another I have left out?
  23. Have you ever seen this technique for applying paint? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSoiCo-lA&feature=youtu.be Herb
  24. Artie

    Manger

    Okay, so I’m building this manger for my brother (the saga is on the woodworking page), it’s being made with 3/8 Baltic Birch, and 3/4 x 1 1/8 Poplar. I’m planning on staining the exterior with Cherry gel stain, and a gel finish. I think the bare interior looks most manger like. Do I want to clear finish the interior for protective/sealing the wood reasons? Or is Baltic Birch stable enough that finishing the exterior, and not the interior, won’t affect the long term health of the manger? Any ideas, comments, tips, most welcome. Thank you Artie
  25. Well, I know (or suspect) there are a lot of Charles Neil fans here so I thought this might be of interest. His tutorials are free on line, I got this over at LJ....just passing it on here in case anyone is interested. Edit: I hit something when posting this, if it's not obvious that's a link where the text is underlined.
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