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Found 53 results

  1. PeteM

    "3X" poly

    Varithane (HD) has a new poly, water based, marked "3X". Supposedly three times the dried thickness. I'm trying it out, and it seems OK, although I've thinned it with about 10% water (it's chilly here, need flow). It's thick, white, creamy, sticky.... I think I'll stop at that.
  2. Gerald

    What finish on offering plate?

    I have an idea of what might be best for this project but want some opinions. Have a possible project coming up to make from 12 to 16 offering plates. Hopefully this will be in white oak even tho the pews are red oak. I want the finish to be reparable and yet sturdy. These are the finishes I am considering: 1. Poly; durable but more difficult to repair 2. Lacquer; reparable but not as durable as some other finishes to constant handling 3. Tru Oil ; very durable and supposed to be easily repairable, and maybe easy to apply .No longer available in aerosol. 4. WHAT is another I have left out?
  3. Have you ever seen this technique for applying paint? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSoiCo-lA&feature=youtu.be Herb
  4. Artie


    Okay, so I’m building this manger for my brother (the saga is on the woodworking page), it’s being made with 3/8 Baltic Birch, and 3/4 x 1 1/8 Poplar. I’m planning on staining the exterior with Cherry gel stain, and a gel finish. I think the bare interior looks most manger like. Do I want to clear finish the interior for protective/sealing the wood reasons? Or is Baltic Birch stable enough that finishing the exterior, and not the interior, won’t affect the long term health of the manger? Any ideas, comments, tips, most welcome. Thank you Artie
  5. Fred W. Hargis Jr

    Charles Neil finishing tips

    Well, I know (or suspect) there are a lot of Charles Neil fans here so I thought this might be of interest. His tutorials are free on line, I got this over at LJ....just passing it on here in case anyone is interested. Edit: I hit something when posting this, if it's not obvious that's a link where the text is underlined.
  6. steven newman

    The Old Foyer Table?

    Built the table back in the Pole Barn Shop days...about 2012, or so....Starting point was a 13" wide plank of Sycamore, and a few white Oak rafter parts, complete with nails.. To get a decently straight plank for the top, had to rip it down a bit, to remove wane, and the tapered edge....Saved some of the ripped parts for breadboard ends. Table traveled around, a while. Finish at the time was just a flood coat of Golden Oak stain...never got a coat of varnish... While moving things around the other day...table came in from the foyer...needing a good clean up... Been sitting a while? Broom to evict the squatters.. Then a wipe down to try to get rid of the dirt & dust. Apron edges were from old oak rafters...outside edges were rounded over..with a block plane.. Trim was notched to fit around the leg. They were mitered at the outside corner. I was going to thin the breadboard end pieces..never got around to it. Was a bit afraid they might fall apart.... Those flat trim pieces? They acted like a sponge..soaked up 6 coats of varnish, today...black holes were from old cut nails. Trim was just glued and nailed in place.. Legs and stretchers were ripped from those old rafters...Mortise and tenons at the corners. So..everything now has a coat of clear gloss varnish.. Maybe a better look? Just some old barn wood....
  7. Just to put things into perspective, there are 48 shopping days 'til Christmas. Our Patriot Turners- @Monkey Paws Is getting back into turning and he posted his latest project for us. Our members had lots of praise for his beautiful piece. Please give his post a read and add your comments- @Steve Krumanaker has been busy turning and decorating bowls. Steve showed us two of his latest- Check out Steve's post for more images and a description of the different woods he used- @Ron Altier's Christmas ornament production is in full swing! Check out this beauty- Ron explains how he put the jewel in the center- @RustyFN asked about a food safe finish for some bowls he turned. Our members offered several suggestions- What’s Coming Up- Mark you calendars for the Raleigh, NC Woodturning Symposium- Click on the above image for registration information. For The Newbies- @RustyFN asked about food safe finishes for a bowl. Just this past week, Mike Peace posted a video on making his version of that finish. This is my goto food safe finish. For cutting boards, I usually apply several coats of pure mineral first so it penetrates deeper. Also, I usually heat the mineral oil/beeswax before applying. Expand Your Horizons- Tim Yoder has a new, two part video on making a Christmas ornament. In this one, Tim uses a laser cut kit as part of the design. The second part of the presentation is linked from Tim's page. The kit is available from Ron Brown- https://www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=common/home New Turning Items- There has been rather a lengthy discussion, this past week, comparing the Tormek sharpening system to the similar Grizzly system. One of the ideas floated in that discussion was about CBN sharpening wheels. A turning products emails I received had this information- https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/cbn-wheels Everything Else- The Woodturning OnLine newsletter came this week. The article on Thin Stem Turning, by Alan Carter, looks really interesting- The PDF can be found at- http://honoluluwoodturners.org/16_tips/Alan Carter_thin stem tutorial.pdf Also, as @PostalTom pointed out, there is a cute video of a BIG pepper grinder in the newsletter- The entire newsletter is at- https://www.woodturningonline.com/ Finally, Rick Turns has his October list of turning videos available. When you check out these videos, please give Rick a Bravo Zulu for all of his hard work producing this information Safe turning
  8. RustyFN


    I turned two bowls and my wife wants to use them for salad bowls. Is polyurethane a safe finish to eat out of? If not what do you recommend.
  9. Hello, My sister has done some much for me in my life that I am going to make her some Kitchen Cabinets for her ski condo in Colorado. I am going to make them out of prefinished maple plywood with a rustic hickory face frame and doors. This will be the biggest project that I have ever done. For the sides of the cabinets that will be exposed, I am going to cover them with a 1/4" one sided rustic hickory on MDF. I have worked with MDF before but not the prefinished Maple plywood. I would want to glue the MDF to the sides of the prefinished maple plywood (I could only get the maple plywood 2 sided) and want to know if anyone else has faced this issue? Would I have to scuff the finish up with a low grit sandpaper, or can I use tightbond III glue straight? Best regards, Ron
  10. I have missed a few Throw Back Thursday's simply because I didn't have anything that I had picked up lately with enough information to share with you all. But today I have a little information to share with you about a product you may use and if you don't, you may want to consider it. Shellac. As I am sure most of you know Shellac has been around and used by ancient Chinese and Indian civilizations for a long time. They used the dye extracted from lac fro dyeing silk and leather and as a cosmetic rouge and a coloring for head ornaments. In the 13th century, following the historical journey of Marco Polo ot the Orient, Shellac and its by products began making its way into European commerce and industry. Dating back as far as 1534 there are accounts that describe the cultivation, harvesting, processing and use of lac in extraordinary detail. Shellac resin, shellac dye and shellac wax we used with increasing frequency by the mid 17th century by painters to provide a protective finish. It wasn't until the mid 19th century that shellac was commonly used as a clear finish. The rich reddish purple colorant was highly prized and much sought after by the textile trade in both Europe and America since is was an excellent substitute for Cochineal, a dye imported from Spanish Colonies in Mexico. Henry Perkins, an English Chemist, in 1856 succeeded in synthesizing a mauve-colored dye from an aniline derivative of coal tar. This discovery changed the future of the Shellac industry forever. Production plants began springing up throughout Europe and Germany. They soon developed a reputation for the finest shellac manufactured in the world. Efforts were also underway to produce a colorless shellac William Zinsser, a bleaching foreman in Germany, confident of his technological skills and convinced that a good market for bleached shellac either existed or could be created in the United States, moved his family to New York in 1849. He settled in Manhattan on West 59th Street and setup a workshop in a building next to his home and began to bleach small quantities of shellac and sold it to fellow immigrants. From this humble beginning arose the first Shellac Bleachery in the United States. The production grew from a few pounds per day to thousands of gallons by the turn of the century. At this point Zinsser shellac was sold to vendors who packaged the product under their own label and name. In 1908 one of Zinssers' sons took over the company and began packaging their shellac under the Bulls Eye label. By 1920 there were several other manufactures of shellac in the U.S. The next eighty years witnessed a veritable explosion in the commercial applications of shellac. It was used extensively as a binder in the manufacturing of gramophone records, shoe polish, felt sizing for men's hats, hair spray, floor wax, pharmaceutical, candy (shiny coating on M&M's), printing inks, adhesives, grinding wheels, paper and foil coatings and electrical insulators. From the mid 1960's to the early 1990's shellac seemed forgotten by everyone except those who manufactured it and the contractors, hobbyists, and knowledgeable devotees who used it. All of the makers of shellac were out of business or existed as subsidiaries of the one remaining manufacture: William Zinsser & Co. While out doing a little Patriot Picking, I found this gallon can of Bulls Eye "Z" Shellac that is full and unopened. This is a vintage Zinsser can as it was before UPC codes were put on products. The "Z Bulls Eye Brand" Trademark was first used in 1/1/1913. Zinseer filed and registered the trademark 3/23/1965 and it expired 6/23/1985. The first UPC marked item ever scanned at a retail checkout was at Marsh supermarket in Troy, Ohio at 8:01 a.m. on June 26, 1974 and was a 10-pack (50 sticks) of Wrigley's Juicy Fruit chewing gum. The shopper was Clyde Dawson and the cashier Sharon Buckanan made the first UPC Scan. Patriot Picking on Throw Back Thursday!
  11. Ron Altier

    Filling holes

    I don't know if this belongs here but it is about turning. I am finishing a piece (colored ply) and it has tiny tare out holes. What finish would you use to fill them? (or tiny cracks) I normally use HUT friction finish. Thanks
  12. John Morris

    StewMac Scraper

    One of my goals in my work, is to avoid using a sander. I have heard such great things about these scrapers, I went and purchased the rectangular and original scrapers from https://www.stewmac.com/ These scrapers will be used for my chair back slates and arms, and of course any other flat or curved work that demands a fine surface. I'll review them first chance I get! The Original below The Rectangular/Concave below A short video on the inventor and how to sharpen this scraper.
  13. Ron Altier

    Scrap Ornament Finished

    I think it is a challenge to make these things and also a surprise when I turn down to a different wood. I can't plan a design I just to go with what I have. I laugh sometimes and sometimes something special happens. Of course there are some that end up in my waste bin too. (You won't see pictures of them)
  14. John Morris

    Safety Caps

    I hate em. I cut them off, because after awhile I can't open the danged can because the plastic gets stripped out.
  15. Another Wednesday! One of our new members, @brianpoundingnails posted pictures of a shop made lathe he built. His "machine" is multipurpose and made for creating log furniture. Check out Brian's post and see all the functions of this marvelous machine- @Gerald has been busy turning some hollow forms. The wood was from a neighbors tree. Gerald posted more about the wood and the turnings here- @Ron Altier Has been turning more ornaments! This first one caused him to have an allergic reaction but that didn't stop him from finishing this little beauty. More about the ornament in Ron's post- Ron kept them coming with this awesome piece- More about this one- And finally, Ron finished up this gorgeous piece- His description here- @PostalTom asked our members how they stored their turning tools. He received lots of feedback and ideas. Head on over to his post and give him your ideas and suggestions. As turners, we are always looking for ideas on how to make our pieces unique. Shapes, wood species, mixed media and finishes. @Steve Krumanaker posted a topic on chip carving. He plans to use this technique to add detail to some of his turnings. He received lots of encouragement on his new endeavor. Please check out his post and offer any suggestions you may have. Another way to make a unique turning- I picked this up off of a Facebook woodturning page. This is part one of the video and part two is linked from the Youtube site. I'm not sure how robust this finish will be but it sure is interesting. Ruth Niles has added a new item to her stainless steel products. If you are looking for a gift for that discriminating espresso drinker, check out Ruth's new coffee tamper. https://nilesbottlestoppers.com/ I spent the day redesigning a jig I use to turn rolling pins. I replaced the high speed steel cutter with a Ci5 cutter from Easy Wood Tools. Now I need to make up some rolling pin blanks. The stock is getting low. I have a bunch of those flame box elder blanks cut and must get to turning them. Safe turning
  16. Buckaroo

    More Room

    We all can see a pie cut in 4 equal pices. Cut some 1/2'' ply/?? to put in the corner of ya shop like a piece of pie, make it as ''deep'' as ya want. Ya gonna attach this to/into a corner of ya shop. Ya gonna set cans of paint, varnish, etc .,etc.. put bigg/higer/taller cans on back, shorter'1's on front. Bout four of these takes care of my messin. Cya.
  17. Gerald

    Finish On Bottle Stoppers

    Been doing some bottle stoppers for my DIL Studio. Not something I do on a regular basis. I have tried Salad Bowl Finish and Polyurethane and not extremely happy with either although on some woods one will look good and the other on some others.. What is your Fav and why for stoppers? I like some of these after I applied Renaissance Wax.
  18. 1. Beautify Finishing, including any coloring, beautifies the wood over a raw wood surface. It adds sheen level, accentuates grain and figure, can unify coloring variances, and can add chatoyance (glimmering like a cat's eye) It can give cheap woods appearance of a more expensive one (e.g., poplar into walnut or cherry, ebonized wood). 2. Protect Finish can protect wood from incidental damage such as liquids (water), scuffs, soiling, bacteria and in some cases UV damage. Look at what happens to wood when left outdoors in the rain or sun. Think of the molding around a door from the garage to the house that's never been finished -- it will be full of dirt and oils. 3. Provide a cleanable surface Again think of the garage door molding. Ever have one of those you have to clean? The dirt, body, and engine oils are deeply embedded and almost impossible to get rid of without some deep sanding. I've had to work on some farm tables with minimal to no finish on them. I always say that they're just one spilled glass of red wine or errant meatball from getting a permanent stain.
  19. Ron Altier

    Experimenting With Epoxy

    I got some ideas about using 5 minute epoxy and glitter. I made some mistakes, but learned a lot in the process. You can see the upper ring. It looked really good until I tried something else to smooth it. I think I am going to try again, I have a couple more things I want to try
  20. Snailman

    Wiping on water based poly

    I tried to search this here, and maybe (probably) missed it. Can water based poly be wiped on? I've got to move my armoire project into the house (temps got too low to continue working in the garage) so I want to keep smell and cure time down. Thanks in advance. Paul
  21. Gerald

    Cabot Australian Timber Oil

    My son bought a house and the wood accents (stair rail, upper rail, riser rail in kitchen ) are finished in Cabots Mahogany Flame on mahogany wood. Looks great but My question is that I can only find one that says it is outdoor. Is there another or does it matter?
  22. Gerald

    Crotch finish

    Turned this bradford pear crotch a couple months ago and just got started on second turn. Just wondering opinion on best finish to display grain .
  23. You have an old piece of furniture (or gotten one). You might be able to restore the finish by applying more of same (after a cleaning) As a general rule, shellac was a common finish up to WWI. Lacquer started to take over and by WWII is the most likely factory-finish. Starting in the 1960s, polyurethane became a common choice for Joe Garage. All this time, varnishes of various sorts were used, but were uncommon for factory finishes. They simply cure too slowly and are difficult to repair for transit or showroom damage. Around 2000, a few conversion finishes started to be used by factories. These are very tough and don't respond well to top coating, touch up, or stripping. Durability and repairability are opposite sides of the coin. Oil or oil-varnish blend pieces are renewed by adding more of same. These finishes are generally not "film forming" also known as "in the wood" and identifiable by observation. Because of the nature of the solvents on the finish, the order of testing is important. Alcohol Apply a few drops of denatured alcohol to an obscure place. Wait a bit, then touch the spot with a finger-tip, soft-bristle brush or a cloth. Shellac will l soften and turn a bit sticky. If it doesn't, it's not shellac. Really old lacquer may also soften just a bit with alcohol. Lacquer thinner Next, try lacquer thinner, and repeat the first step by applying a few drops of it to a new spot on the surface. If after a couple of seconds the finish softens a lot or becomes runny, you have lacquer. But if the finish only becomes tacky and you know that it was built in the last decade the finish could be water-based. Zylene (Xylol) Try touching a bit of xylene to a different part of the finish. If the test area gets gummy, it's a water-based finish. If none of these solvents dissolves the old finish it is a reactive finish that cures via chemical reaction, such as a varnish. You can apply more shellac and lacquer over themselves. Or you can clean up a bit by padding with some of their respective solvent. Not too much or you'll strip down to wood. This is the essence of the "finish refinishers" See ATM strippers under http://thepatriotwoodworker.com/topic/20769-tgif-stripping-old-finishes-tuesday-sept-19-2017/ You must thoroughly clean and dull (scuff up) film finishes before you can apply another coat of the same finish. You especially need to remove dirt and wax for good adhesion. See http://thepatriotwoodworker.com/topic/20685-tgif-saving-a-finish-tuesday-sept-5-2017/
  24. We have covered six different finish types. How do you know which to use, when? As I've probably said before, you don't need the same finish for a clock, a dining table, a breadboard, and a pickled white cabinet. The answer won't be the same for you in your garage as your buddy with his spray booth and nice exhaust (or vice-versa). If you live in an area with VOC restrictions or have a limited source of supply, or limited space to apply a finish, that may limit your available options. Many people, frustrated with getting a finish to work, find one and use it for everything. My Finishing Rule #2 When you pick any finish, you select an attribute or two you want and you get all the other attributes that come along with that choice. There is no finish that's perfect for every need. Color or lack thereof Resistance to abrasion, UV, water, other chemicals, heat Ability to apply with your skill level -- spray, brush, or wipe Ability to apply in your in your environment -- fumes, dustiness, temperature, humidity Time to complete finishing -- number of coats, time for each coat to apply and dry, and time between coats Repairability Gloss level Film thickness Hardness Chatoyance Cost Availability Compatibility with existing finish, if any There is really no right answer, as long as the answer is not “use the same finish for everything.” Unless you are making the same thing over and over. Rather than paraphrasing the experts, I’ll just link to their comments. Additional reading: http://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/choosing-a-finish/ http://www.popularwoodworking.com/jun13/flexner-on-finishing-how-to-choose-a-finish
  25. John Morris

    Painting Poplar

    Folks, I have some nice poplar boards, and I am going to make another vanity with the boards, for another bathroom in our home. The entire vanity will be poplar, the outside will be painted a cream white or off white, and the inside will be varnished. The poplar I have has those wonderful dark green and dark streaks, I have heard that poplar colors will bleed through most paints, what can I do to prevent the bleed through, or is what I have heard and read a myth? Thanks!

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