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Showing results for tags 'finish'.
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Just does not feel right to post finished work in the on the lathe post so I am creating this to post finished works. Please feel free to add yours. Walnut a friend gave me with Watco danish oil. vase from my shelf with three carved feet. Aldo Watco danish oil. Spalted pecan. Ruth Niles Can Tab Pull with I think Indian Rosewood and buff with Renaissance wax. new design for phone amplifier in Crepe Myrtle. Lacquer finish
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I'm still playing with the 2 part, 30 minute epoxy. I have refined my set up and application process. I am still learning. Here are some rules I use a low RPM manual setup to regulate RPM 1. MOST IMPORTANT! Clean your lathe and surrounding area of all dust. Just one little mistake will show up and stay. 2 Apply slowly with a small brush while turning at slow RPM 3. Go over any areas that look like they need it. Remember that curing time can creep up on you. 4. Once you are satisfied, allow the piece to continue turning for 45 minutes (curing time is 30 minutes on the epoxy I used) 5. Shut down and allow it stand in the lathe for 24 hours for a full cure. It does look like glass. NOT everyone likes Christmas ornaments that look like that. I do.
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I live in Colorado at about 6000 ft altitude. I have built birdhouses since moving here and I used the Cedar fencing material thinking it would last longer than any other wood, it is used exclusively for wood fences here. After a couple years I can see sun damage and after 4/5 years they start to come apart. The sun's ultraviolet light just eats up all finishes here. I am looking for suggestions on wood type or finish type that will help make them last. Do you have any thoughts on this? The picture shows some of my bird houses when I built or refinished them. I overhauled the cuckoo clock today and it is in such bad shape it fell apart in my hands. Maybe I am asking too much for the wood to endure out here in the light air and intense sun.
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I have been curious about this finish that I found on Woodspirit Handcraft's website. It appears to be a food safe "ceramic" coating that penetrates and leaves a natural protected finish. I don't know anything about it, other than what I have read at Woodspirit. It looks interesting, any feedback greatly appreciated, @kmealy if you know anything about this? Or by reading the label can tell us your opinion on the product? About Hassui Ceramic — WOODSPIRIT HANDCRAFT WWW.WOODSPIRITHANDCRAFT.COM
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Somewhere recently I saw a video using this finish. Ran across this video on how it's made. Now I'd like to find where it is sold.
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I wrote asking about sanding old darkened finished wood and lighting it up by sanding. Does it work? This snake is about 15 years old and I sanded it for quite a while. I’d say I got it about 20% lighter. This was a 30 inch piece of walnut that I saw in an Amish company lumber in Ohio. I immediately saw the snake hidden in that grain and had to buy it
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I had a bowl that I tried to put a poly finish over wax and it came out very bad. I sanded it back down and am redoing the finish without the wax.
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To stain or not to stain - that is the question. I normally do not like to stain my projets - BUT - there are times that I think staining will enhance a project. Preconditioning the wood seems to be the ticket for an even color look wiwthout blotching. I am wondering what y'all think about it and what you use before applying and rubbing out the stain. This inquiring mind would like to know ! ! !
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Sanding may sound elemental but to get that good finish it is essential part of the process of turning to a finish. The best way to improve your finish is to first learn to turn to a better finish off your tools. This will take time so lets look at what to do till that happens. Always sand from beginning grit to finish grit. Do not skip grits. My progression is 80,120,180,220,320,400,600,800,1000,2000, 4000. Unless my finish off the gouge is good those steps are followed. Might start at 60 for a bad piece of wood , yes it is always the fault of the wood . For most turnings I only go to 400. How long do you sand with each grit? Answer=Till all scratches from the previous grit are gone. How do you see those scratches? Answer= LOW-Angled light on the surface. Sometimes these scratches show better if you do not remove the sanding dust but be sure to check after dusting off too. There are occasions when you will find scratches after a higher grit and in this case go back two grits and continue to follow progression. Is power sanding a good idea? Answer + can be used for at least part of the process. Do not power sand at full speed , a medium or low speed on the sander is sufficient. Do not press on the sander, its weight is plenty of pressure. Use hand rotation of the piece on the lathe, speed causes the sander and hand held paper to skip on the surface. Do not hesitate to work more on a problem area but be sure to feather out the area to disguise the spots symmetry . When possible sand with the grain by hand on the last two grits. In power sanding use a softer pad under discs over 180. Now what do I use. Sander Ridgid Job Max(corded) for 2 inch discs. Pros orbital sander (air Powered) for 3 inch discs. Sanding mandrels for both are from WoodturnersWonders.com in a system of Rolox pads with hook & loop. Paper for sheet I use Norton 3X and pads are Mirka gold from TurningWood.Com And Abralon pads Backup pads save your hook and loop on your mandrels. There are many ways to mount paper on handles , and inertial sanding handles that spin from the lathes power. For sanding inside hollow forms I use long locking tongs with the paper wrapped around a foam pad. For this lathe will need to be turning at a slow speed. You will find your own solutions and mine are not the only way to get there. When you find it necessary to sand on lathe under power always use speeds of 250 or less.
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My daughter gave me a box of 40 paint pens. I had an old rejected turning and used the paint pens on it. My wife took one look and said “NO”. To be honest I knew that would happen. I don’t care for it either. I like the natural beauty of wood. It was a fun project and kept out of trouble
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Got some steps to put finish on next week and looking at poly. Minwax used to be what I used but I notice the can is now gray. Anyone know what the difference is? That said what brand does everyone use and is there a reason or like me just always used it?
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Has anyone found a way to overcome Silicone contamination or to seal it?
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Cutting, shaping, joinery, glue up and assy I can get that. If I mess up I just make another piece. But when all of that is done after maybe 50 hours of work and it is sitting there awaiting finish - I freeze. One mistake here and the entire project can turn into $250 in hard wood and 50 hours into tragedy. Am I mental? This is of course not at all out of the question. Is this typical or is it just me. Spray on - wipe on - brush on. Poly, oil, shellac, varnish, stain, polyshades. Uneven finish, runs, streaks. At times it feels like I am in a zombie movie and all of these issues are out to get me. So, I sit and look at the project in all of its unfinished glory and the more I look at it the more it seems it is looking at me and waiting.
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I have been experimenting with the UV clear finish that dries in seconds when exposed to a UV light or the sun. The sun. is much quicker. I got a surprise when I coated this ornament and took it to the sun. The Walnut looks normal, until it is exposed to the sun and then turns purple, (almost glows) but returns to normal again when out of the sun. It is the only wood so far that does that. Can anyone guess what I turned into this piece in the center. It is chrome like and comes from a entirely different source and I wondered "What if?"
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I put some Yellow Heart and Bloodwood (I think) together for a bell ornament. Things didn't go as I wanted, so I made changes as I went. I used the ultra violet finish on it and in some ways it is great, other ways no so good. It is somewhat thick and I applied it on the turning (by hand) lathe with a brush until smooth. Then kept turning it by hand while having a small ultra violet light on it. I did half harden and I was not pleased. I took it outside in the sun and got good results. It did have some uneven places, so I returned it to the lathe for sanding, mostly hand turning the lathe and smoothing by hand. This stuff is soft and any heat or over sanding could remove or damage it. A recoating and return to the sun made it look good. I'm still 100% sold on the stuff, but am liking it better.
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So a while back I asked the question, "what can seal turned mugs that is good to use for both hot and cold beverages?" After quite a bit of research and asking around, I think I have found the answer. You guys feel free to correct me if I am wrong g or sharing wrong information. The answer actually came by a person who turns mugs for renfairs (probably didn't spell that right.) He said "Brewer's Pitch" I did more research to see if this was correct and everything I found said it was. ( we are talking about internet so... please feel free to correct me. I ordered a pound worth of this stuff from the specific site which was about 30 dollars. Turns out it is basically pine resin/pitch. So now being me I am thinking self can't you just make your own as I am surrounded by pines. Lol maybe i will. I am all for learning new things especially things that our ancestors practiced.
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From the album: Spoon Carving
A friend of mine at work gave me tree limbs that he cut from his Japanese Silk tree, and I found some nice wood in those limbs. Just finished this large cooking spoon this afternoon and put the first coat of "Tried and True" on it. My third attempt carving spoons from green wood. It's getting addictive. -
I’m wanting to use a salad bowl finish, by general finishes. I’ve used it before, but I always get a mediocre mat finish. Is there a way to make it have a better sheen? Or maybe some other type of food safe finish?
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I have been hearing about the problems created by using steel wool in water based finishes. Does anyone have a picture of the rust in the finish? I am wondering if I cold purposely do that and create a unique finish. Are there problems with the finish coming off or flaking?
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I don't know if this belongs here but it is about turning. I am finishing a piece (colored ply) and it has tiny tare out holes. What finish would you use to fill them? (or tiny cracks) I normally use HUT friction finish. Thanks
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Twenty shopping days left until Christmas, just saying... Please don't forget that we are in the midst of our Adopt a Wounded Warrior Family project. We have exceeded our goal!!!! But, if you haven't added your contribution, it will make their Christmas just that much more memorable! Our Patriot Turners- New member @Masonsailor posted an awesome turning that will be part of a larger "Lazy Susan". Check out his post and some of the fabulous comments by our members- @FlGatorwood saved Thanksgiving, at his house, this year. What do you do when you need to mash taters and there's no masher? You make one!!! Check out how he did this in his post- @Bundoman is up to his mask in snowmen! Look at this plethora of little fellows (and ladies)! He received lots of great comments on these turnings- @Ron Altier showed us a new finish for his ornaments. The finish is hardened by sunlight- He explains more in this post- What’s Coming Up- Moving on down the west coast, here's a centrally located turners club- Click on the above image for the link to their web site. For The Newbies- Easy Wood Tools @Jim from Easy Wood Tools in conjunction with Tracey Malady, has a video demonstrating bowl turning using their product. You can see just how "Easy" these tools are to use! Expand Your Horizons- One more sea urchin ornament. This one is a bird house ornament by Mike Peace. New Turning Items- How about a jumbo drive spur!? This one is from Nova. Check out this link for more information- https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-jumbo-drive-center-sku-9087/ Everything Else- Here's a chance to look at some awesome ornaments and vote for the one you like the most. I've been putting the new lathe through its paces. Continuing to work on Christmas bowls. The inside of each is turned and sanded. Now removing the tenon and finishing up the bottom. One of the turnings is destined to become a lidded vessel. The maple blank is roughed out and affixed to a glue block using a paper joint. Once it is finished, everything will get a mineral oil/beeswax finish. Safe turning
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I'm trying out a new finish on ornaments with coarse wood or spalted wood, as in this case. It is a finish that hardens in the sun in 3 minutes or with an ultraviolet light. I used some spalted maple and the pieces I chose got bad as I turned. That is when I put them aside, didn't like them. I read about a finish that is for coarse wood. I think I paid $14 for it. I got out the old course ornaments and applied it with an old artists brush. I hung them in the sun for 5 minutes, wanted to make sure. I sanded with 400 sandpaper and 0000 steel wool. Then I sprayed clear finish on them. I am very pleased, they came out very good and you have to look very close to see faults.
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All please see the latest magizne from Fine Woodworking. Essentially I used the same receipe before and it works great. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/10/17/finish-recipe-a-warm-finish-for-white-oak
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