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  1. Sanding may sound elemental but to get that good finish it is essential part of the process of turning to a finish. The best way to improve your finish is to first learn to turn to a better finish off your tools. This will take time so lets look at what to do till that happens. Always sand from beginning grit to finish grit. Do not skip grits. My progression is 80,120,180,220,320,400,600,800,1000,2000, 4000. Unless my finish off the gouge is good those steps are followed. Might start at 60 for a bad piece of wood , yes it is always the fault of the wood . For most turnings I only g
  2. Has anyone found a way to overcome Silicone contamination or to seal it?
  3. Cutting, shaping, joinery, glue up and assy I can get that. If I mess up I just make another piece. But when all of that is done after maybe 50 hours of work and it is sitting there awaiting finish - I freeze. One mistake here and the entire project can turn into $250 in hard wood and 50 hours into tragedy. Am I mental? This is of course not at all out of the question. Is this typical or is it just me. Spray on - wipe on - brush on. Poly, oil, shellac, varnish, stain, polyshades. Uneven finish, runs, streaks. At times it feels like I am in a zombie movie and all of these issues are out to get
  4. I have been experimenting with the UV clear finish that dries in seconds when exposed to a UV light or the sun. The sun. is much quicker. I got a surprise when I coated this ornament and took it to the sun. The Walnut looks normal, until it is exposed to the sun and then turns purple, (almost glows) but returns to normal again when out of the sun. It is the only wood so far that does that. Can anyone guess what I turned into this piece in the center. It is chrome like and comes from a entirely different source and I wondered "What if?"
  5. I put some Yellow Heart and Bloodwood (I think) together for a bell ornament. Things didn't go as I wanted, so I made changes as I went. I used the ultra violet finish on it and in some ways it is great, other ways no so good. It is somewhat thick and I applied it on the turning (by hand) lathe with a brush until smooth. Then kept turning it by hand while having a small ultra violet light on it. I did half harden and I was not pleased. I took it outside in the sun and got good results. It did have some uneven places, so I returned it to the lathe for sanding, mostly hand turning the lathe and
  6. So a while back I asked the question, "what can seal turned mugs that is good to use for both hot and cold beverages?" After quite a bit of research and asking around, I think I have found the answer. You guys feel free to correct me if I am wrong g or sharing wrong information. The answer actually came by a person who turns mugs for renfairs (probably didn't spell that right.) He said "Brewer's Pitch" I did more research to see if this was correct and everything I found said it was. ( we are talking about internet so... please feel free to correct me. I ordered a pound worth of this stuff
  7. From the album: Spoon Carving

    A friend of mine at work gave me tree limbs that he cut from his Japanese Silk tree, and I found some nice wood in those limbs. Just finished this large cooking spoon this afternoon and put the first coat of "Tried and True" on it. My third attempt carving spoons from green wood. It's getting addictive.
  8. I'm still working on how to finish the inside of vessels. Still looking for tips and wisdom. Somebody posted some wisdom here a few months ago that for a vessel with smaller than a five inch opening, people don't or can't look inside that well to see the finish. I think there is truth in that. From that post, I have tried black gesso on the inside but struggle with its sturdiness with any use. It is basically an acrylic paint, from my understanding. Here, I used a cobblestone spray paint. It adds a sturdy texture to the inside that contrasts with the super smooth outside.
  9. I'm pleased with this bowl for several reasons: . The white oak was rescued from a lumber sawyer's waste pile . The wood works wonderfully well. . I happened to hit the right spot to get the crotch part centered in the bottom. Finished with golden oak Watco and 2000 grit wetsanding.
  10. I’m wanting to use a salad bowl finish, by general finishes. I’ve used it before, but I always get a mediocre mat finish. Is there a way to make it have a better sheen? Or maybe some other type of food safe finish?
  11. I have been hearing about the problems created by using steel wool in water based finishes. Does anyone have a picture of the rust in the finish? I am wondering if I cold purposely do that and create a unique finish. Are there problems with the finish coming off or flaking?
  12. I just made a small vase out of spalted wood. Over the years I have turned some rough grained wood that had open spaces and areas that I'd like to fill to a smooth finish that does not cover up the wood grain or look out of place. I have tried several things to achieve that, including epoxy and some super glue. So far my results have only been just ok, not great. Any suggestions. Maybe I used the right approach, but my methods were wrong. Thanks
  13. I don't know if this belongs here but it is about turning. I am finishing a piece (colored ply) and it has tiny tare out holes. What finish would you use to fill them? (or tiny cracks) I normally use HUT friction finish. Thanks
  14. Twenty shopping days left until Christmas, just saying... Please don't forget that we are in the midst of our Adopt a Wounded Warrior Family project. We have exceeded our goal!!!! But, if you haven't added your contribution, it will make their Christmas just that much more memorable! Our Patriot Turners- New member @Masonsailor posted an awesome turning that will be part of a larger "Lazy Susan". Check out his post and some of the fabulous comments by our members- @FlGatorwood saved Thanksgiving, at his house, this yea
  15. I'm trying out a new finish on ornaments with coarse wood or spalted wood, as in this case. It is a finish that hardens in the sun in 3 minutes or with an ultraviolet light. I used some spalted maple and the pieces I chose got bad as I turned. That is when I put them aside, didn't like them. I read about a finish that is for coarse wood. I think I paid $14 for it. I got out the old course ornaments and applied it with an old artists brush. I hung them in the sun for 5 minutes, wanted to make sure. I sanded with 400 sandpaper and 0000 steel wool. Then I sprayed clear finish on them. I am
  16. All please see the latest magizne from Fine Woodworking. Essentially I used the same receipe before and it works great. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/10/17/finish-recipe-a-warm-finish-for-white-oak
  17. Does anyone have any plans (here we go again) for a portable or knock down spray booth? Small projects that can be sprayed from an aerosol can are no problem, but sometimes I would like to be able to use a spray gun on larger projects. My shop is in the basement, so I would need a way to capture or exhaust the fumes safely. This would be in a hobbyist, and not a production scenario. And no, I have not yet checked out local zoning issues, I would do that before implementing a system that seems viable.
  18. Teri Chapman

    Finish?

    Hi! I am going to refinish a child's rocking chair for my granddaughter, but I'm not real experienced with this stuff, so I'm needing to ask a couple questions. What type of top coating finish is usually used on children's furniture? Here are a couple pics of the rocker i have. Can anyone tell what the finish might be, so I know what kind of stripping agent to use. Could it be laquer or varnish? Thanks for any help y'all can give me! Teri
  19. So I had asked about finishing shop cabinets and so on and I decided that I would finish some of mine starting with the large miter station. I've taken the Bosch ROS and sanded the top sections with 400 grit. I used these tack clothes I got but have to admit I've never used a tack cloth before so I was surprised that they have a waxy feel to them. I had vacuumed them first and then used the tack cloth and did see the cloth loading some. Is there a residue left by the cloth?Is the surface now ready for finish? The finish I have to apply is General Finishes High Performance Satin water based top
  20. Made a new lidded pot for the wife. Not sure what is going on with the finish. The base is padauk. The lid is lace wood. The finish on the lid was like glass. I put one coat of beeswax and one coat of Shellawax. Now there are spots on the lid that look rough.
  21. When using a ploy that is water based I can stand there and watch it dry but how do dustprooof the finishing room. The waterbone has lots of dimples from dust. I will sand them smooth and try again. Any advise appreciated.
  22. Please see the below where I have unstainable squigles in the raised panel. Probably glue line or squeeze out. Do I dare to strip and sand out risking cutting thru the veneer? Maybe a brown and black sharpe? Need your help!
  23. PeteM

    "3X" poly

    Varithane (HD) has a new poly, water based, marked "3X". Supposedly three times the dried thickness. I'm trying it out, and it seems OK, although I've thinned it with about 10% water (it's chilly here, need flow). It's thick, white, creamy, sticky.... I think I'll stop at that.
  24. I have an idea of what might be best for this project but want some opinions. Have a possible project coming up to make from 12 to 16 offering plates. Hopefully this will be in white oak even tho the pews are red oak. I want the finish to be reparable and yet sturdy. These are the finishes I am considering: 1. Poly; durable but more difficult to repair 2. Lacquer; reparable but not as durable as some other finishes to constant handling 3. Tru Oil ; very durable and supposed to be easily repairable, and maybe easy to apply .No longer available in a
  25. Have you ever seen this technique for applying paint? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSoiCo-lA&feature=youtu.be Herb
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