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Found 64 results

  1. From the album: Spoon Carving

    A friend of mine at work gave me tree limbs that he cut from his Japanese Silk tree, and I found some nice wood in those limbs. Just finished this large cooking spoon this afternoon and put the first coat of "Tried and True" on it. My third attempt carving spoons from green wood. It's getting addictive.
  2. I'm still working on how to finish the inside of vessels. Still looking for tips and wisdom. Somebody posted some wisdom here a few months ago that for a vessel with smaller than a five inch opening, people don't or can't look inside that well to see the finish. I think there is truth in that. From that post, I have tried black gesso on the inside but struggle with its sturdiness with any use. It is basically an acrylic paint, from my understanding. Here, I used a cobblestone spray paint. It adds a sturdy texture to the inside that contrasts with the super smooth outside. My artsy friends really like it, and it is a whole lot easier than trying to finish the inside as smooth as the outside. I'd still like to hear from others about how they finish the inside of vessels with small openings.
  3. I'm pleased with this bowl for several reasons: . The white oak was rescued from a lumber sawyer's waste pile . The wood works wonderfully well. . I happened to hit the right spot to get the crotch part centered in the bottom. Finished with golden oak Watco and 2000 grit wetsanding.
  4. I’m wanting to use a salad bowl finish, by general finishes. I’ve used it before, but I always get a mediocre mat finish. Is there a way to make it have a better sheen? Or maybe some other type of food safe finish?
  5. I have been hearing about the problems created by using steel wool in water based finishes. Does anyone have a picture of the rust in the finish? I am wondering if I cold purposely do that and create a unique finish. Are there problems with the finish coming off or flaking?
  6. I just made a small vase out of spalted wood. Over the years I have turned some rough grained wood that had open spaces and areas that I'd like to fill to a smooth finish that does not cover up the wood grain or look out of place. I have tried several things to achieve that, including epoxy and some super glue. So far my results have only been just ok, not great. Any suggestions. Maybe I used the right approach, but my methods were wrong. Thanks
  7. I don't know if this belongs here but it is about turning. I am finishing a piece (colored ply) and it has tiny tare out holes. What finish would you use to fill them? (or tiny cracks) I normally use HUT friction finish. Thanks
  8. Twenty shopping days left until Christmas, just saying... Please don't forget that we are in the midst of our Adopt a Wounded Warrior Family project. We have exceeded our goal!!!! But, if you haven't added your contribution, it will make their Christmas just that much more memorable! Our Patriot Turners- New member @Masonsailor posted an awesome turning that will be part of a larger "Lazy Susan". Check out his post and some of the fabulous comments by our members- @FlGatorwood saved Thanksgiving, at his house, this year. What do you do when you need to mash taters and there's no masher? You make one!!! Check out how he did this in his post- @Bundoman is up to his mask in snowmen! Look at this plethora of little fellows (and ladies)! He received lots of great comments on these turnings- @Ron Altier showed us a new finish for his ornaments. The finish is hardened by sunlight- He explains more in this post- What’s Coming Up- Moving on down the west coast, here's a centrally located turners club- Click on the above image for the link to their web site. For The Newbies- Easy Wood Tools @Jim from Easy Wood Tools in conjunction with Tracey Malady, has a video demonstrating bowl turning using their product. You can see just how "Easy" these tools are to use! Expand Your Horizons- One more sea urchin ornament. This one is a bird house ornament by Mike Peace. New Turning Items- How about a jumbo drive spur!? This one is from Nova. Check out this link for more information- https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-jumbo-drive-center-sku-9087/ Everything Else- Here's a chance to look at some awesome ornaments and vote for the one you like the most. I've been putting the new lathe through its paces. Continuing to work on Christmas bowls. The inside of each is turned and sanded. Now removing the tenon and finishing up the bottom. One of the turnings is destined to become a lidded vessel. The maple blank is roughed out and affixed to a glue block using a paper joint. Once it is finished, everything will get a mineral oil/beeswax finish. Safe turning
  9. I'm trying out a new finish on ornaments with coarse wood or spalted wood, as in this case. It is a finish that hardens in the sun in 3 minutes or with an ultraviolet light. I used some spalted maple and the pieces I chose got bad as I turned. That is when I put them aside, didn't like them. I read about a finish that is for coarse wood. I think I paid $14 for it. I got out the old course ornaments and applied it with an old artists brush. I hung them in the sun for 5 minutes, wanted to make sure. I sanded with 400 sandpaper and 0000 steel wool. Then I sprayed clear finish on them. I am very pleased, they came out very good and you have to look very close to see faults.
  10. All please see the latest magizne from Fine Woodworking. Essentially I used the same receipe before and it works great. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/10/17/finish-recipe-a-warm-finish-for-white-oak
  11. Does anyone have any plans (here we go again) for a portable or knock down spray booth? Small projects that can be sprayed from an aerosol can are no problem, but sometimes I would like to be able to use a spray gun on larger projects. My shop is in the basement, so I would need a way to capture or exhaust the fumes safely. This would be in a hobbyist, and not a production scenario. And no, I have not yet checked out local zoning issues, I would do that before implementing a system that seems viable.
  12. Teri Chapman

    Finish?

    Hi! I am going to refinish a child's rocking chair for my granddaughter, but I'm not real experienced with this stuff, so I'm needing to ask a couple questions. What type of top coating finish is usually used on children's furniture? Here are a couple pics of the rocker i have. Can anyone tell what the finish might be, so I know what kind of stripping agent to use. Could it be laquer or varnish? Thanks for any help y'all can give me! Teri
  13. So I had asked about finishing shop cabinets and so on and I decided that I would finish some of mine starting with the large miter station. I've taken the Bosch ROS and sanded the top sections with 400 grit. I used these tack clothes I got but have to admit I've never used a tack cloth before so I was surprised that they have a waxy feel to them. I had vacuumed them first and then used the tack cloth and did see the cloth loading some. Is there a residue left by the cloth?Is the surface now ready for finish? The finish I have to apply is General Finishes High Performance Satin water based top coat. My understanding is to apply the 1st coat using the sponge type brush, let dry several hours, sand w/400 grit lightly, vac and wipe with tack cloth, apply 2nd coat. Repeat for at least 3 coats but likely up to 5. Considering the type of use I'll probably do 5 coats and for the hanging cabinets probably just the three coats. For the record the tack clothes are Crystal Tack Cloth bought here. Any advice welcomed. The miter station can be seen here
  14. Made a new lidded pot for the wife. Not sure what is going on with the finish. The base is padauk. The lid is lace wood. The finish on the lid was like glass. I put one coat of beeswax and one coat of Shellawax. Now there are spots on the lid that look rough.
  15. When using a ploy that is water based I can stand there and watch it dry but how do dustprooof the finishing room. The waterbone has lots of dimples from dust. I will sand them smooth and try again. Any advise appreciated.
  16. Please see the below where I have unstainable squigles in the raised panel. Probably glue line or squeeze out. Do I dare to strip and sand out risking cutting thru the veneer? Maybe a brown and black sharpe? Need your help!
  17. PeteM

    "3X" poly

    Varithane (HD) has a new poly, water based, marked "3X". Supposedly three times the dried thickness. I'm trying it out, and it seems OK, although I've thinned it with about 10% water (it's chilly here, need flow). It's thick, white, creamy, sticky.... I think I'll stop at that.
  18. I have an idea of what might be best for this project but want some opinions. Have a possible project coming up to make from 12 to 16 offering plates. Hopefully this will be in white oak even tho the pews are red oak. I want the finish to be reparable and yet sturdy. These are the finishes I am considering: 1. Poly; durable but more difficult to repair 2. Lacquer; reparable but not as durable as some other finishes to constant handling 3. Tru Oil ; very durable and supposed to be easily repairable, and maybe easy to apply .No longer available in aerosol. 4. WHAT is another I have left out?
  19. Have you ever seen this technique for applying paint? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enFSoiCo-lA&feature=youtu.be Herb
  20. Artie

    Manger

    Okay, so I’m building this manger for my brother (the saga is on the woodworking page), it’s being made with 3/8 Baltic Birch, and 3/4 x 1 1/8 Poplar. I’m planning on staining the exterior with Cherry gel stain, and a gel finish. I think the bare interior looks most manger like. Do I want to clear finish the interior for protective/sealing the wood reasons? Or is Baltic Birch stable enough that finishing the exterior, and not the interior, won’t affect the long term health of the manger? Any ideas, comments, tips, most welcome. Thank you Artie
  21. Well, I know (or suspect) there are a lot of Charles Neil fans here so I thought this might be of interest. His tutorials are free on line, I got this over at LJ....just passing it on here in case anyone is interested. Edit: I hit something when posting this, if it's not obvious that's a link where the text is underlined.
  22. Just to put things into perspective, there are 48 shopping days 'til Christmas. Our Patriot Turners- @Monkey Paws Is getting back into turning and he posted his latest project for us. Our members had lots of praise for his beautiful piece. Please give his post a read and add your comments- @Steve Krumanaker has been busy turning and decorating bowls. Steve showed us two of his latest- Check out Steve's post for more images and a description of the different woods he used- @Ron Altier's Christmas ornament production is in full swing! Check out this beauty- Ron explains how he put the jewel in the center- @RustyFN asked about a food safe finish for some bowls he turned. Our members offered several suggestions- What’s Coming Up- Mark you calendars for the Raleigh, NC Woodturning Symposium- Click on the above image for registration information. For The Newbies- @RustyFN asked about food safe finishes for a bowl. Just this past week, Mike Peace posted a video on making his version of that finish. This is my goto food safe finish. For cutting boards, I usually apply several coats of pure mineral first so it penetrates deeper. Also, I usually heat the mineral oil/beeswax before applying. Expand Your Horizons- Tim Yoder has a new, two part video on making a Christmas ornament. In this one, Tim uses a laser cut kit as part of the design. The second part of the presentation is linked from Tim's page. The kit is available from Ron Brown- https://www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=common/home New Turning Items- There has been rather a lengthy discussion, this past week, comparing the Tormek sharpening system to the similar Grizzly system. One of the ideas floated in that discussion was about CBN sharpening wheels. A turning products emails I received had this information- https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/cbn-wheels Everything Else- The Woodturning OnLine newsletter came this week. The article on Thin Stem Turning, by Alan Carter, looks really interesting- The PDF can be found at- http://honoluluwoodturners.org/16_tips/Alan Carter_thin stem tutorial.pdf Also, as @PostalTom pointed out, there is a cute video of a BIG pepper grinder in the newsletter- The entire newsletter is at- https://www.woodturningonline.com/ Finally, Rick Turns has his October list of turning videos available. When you check out these videos, please give Rick a Bravo Zulu for all of his hard work producing this information Safe turning
  23. RustyFN

    Finish

    I turned two bowls and my wife wants to use them for salad bowls. Is polyurethane a safe finish to eat out of? If not what do you recommend.
  24. Hello, My sister has done some much for me in my life that I am going to make her some Kitchen Cabinets for her ski condo in Colorado. I am going to make them out of prefinished maple plywood with a rustic hickory face frame and doors. This will be the biggest project that I have ever done. For the sides of the cabinets that will be exposed, I am going to cover them with a 1/4" one sided rustic hickory on MDF. I have worked with MDF before but not the prefinished Maple plywood. I would want to glue the MDF to the sides of the prefinished maple plywood (I could only get the maple plywood 2 sided) and want to know if anyone else has faced this issue? Would I have to scuff the finish up with a low grit sandpaper, or can I use tightbond III glue straight? Best regards, Ron
  25. I have missed a few Throw Back Thursday's simply because I didn't have anything that I had picked up lately with enough information to share with you all. But today I have a little information to share with you about a product you may use and if you don't, you may want to consider it. Shellac. As I am sure most of you know Shellac has been around and used by ancient Chinese and Indian civilizations for a long time. They used the dye extracted from lac fro dyeing silk and leather and as a cosmetic rouge and a coloring for head ornaments. In the 13th century, following the historical journey of Marco Polo ot the Orient, Shellac and its by products began making its way into European commerce and industry. Dating back as far as 1534 there are accounts that describe the cultivation, harvesting, processing and use of lac in extraordinary detail. Shellac resin, shellac dye and shellac wax we used with increasing frequency by the mid 17th century by painters to provide a protective finish. It wasn't until the mid 19th century that shellac was commonly used as a clear finish. The rich reddish purple colorant was highly prized and much sought after by the textile trade in both Europe and America since is was an excellent substitute for Cochineal, a dye imported from Spanish Colonies in Mexico. Henry Perkins, an English Chemist, in 1856 succeeded in synthesizing a mauve-colored dye from an aniline derivative of coal tar. This discovery changed the future of the Shellac industry forever. Production plants began springing up throughout Europe and Germany. They soon developed a reputation for the finest shellac manufactured in the world. Efforts were also underway to produce a colorless shellac William Zinsser, a bleaching foreman in Germany, confident of his technological skills and convinced that a good market for bleached shellac either existed or could be created in the United States, moved his family to New York in 1849. He settled in Manhattan on West 59th Street and setup a workshop in a building next to his home and began to bleach small quantities of shellac and sold it to fellow immigrants. From this humble beginning arose the first Shellac Bleachery in the United States. The production grew from a few pounds per day to thousands of gallons by the turn of the century. At this point Zinsser shellac was sold to vendors who packaged the product under their own label and name. In 1908 one of Zinssers' sons took over the company and began packaging their shellac under the Bulls Eye label. By 1920 there were several other manufactures of shellac in the U.S. The next eighty years witnessed a veritable explosion in the commercial applications of shellac. It was used extensively as a binder in the manufacturing of gramophone records, shoe polish, felt sizing for men's hats, hair spray, floor wax, pharmaceutical, candy (shiny coating on M&M's), printing inks, adhesives, grinding wheels, paper and foil coatings and electrical insulators. From the mid 1960's to the early 1990's shellac seemed forgotten by everyone except those who manufactured it and the contractors, hobbyists, and knowledgeable devotees who used it. All of the makers of shellac were out of business or existed as subsidiaries of the one remaining manufacture: William Zinsser & Co. While out doing a little Patriot Picking, I found this gallon can of Bulls Eye "Z" Shellac that is full and unopened. This is a vintage Zinsser can as it was before UPC codes were put on products. The "Z Bulls Eye Brand" Trademark was first used in 1/1/1913. Zinseer filed and registered the trademark 3/23/1965 and it expired 6/23/1985. The first UPC marked item ever scanned at a retail checkout was at Marsh supermarket in Troy, Ohio at 8:01 a.m. on June 26, 1974 and was a 10-pack (50 sticks) of Wrigley's Juicy Fruit chewing gum. The shopper was Clyde Dawson and the cashier Sharon Buckanan made the first UPC Scan. Patriot Picking on Throw Back Thursday!
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