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Found 40 results

  1. John Moody

    Cherry Blanket Chest

    Well for several weeks I have posted some pictures of this chest and I am happy to report to you that it is finished. Just a recap. Started with a visit to the Wood Stash and hand picked some of the best looking Cherry Boards from the stack. Cut them to size, ran them across the jointer and then through the planner. I then took the cherry boards and edge glued them together to make the panels for the front, back and both ends of the chest. Then I put two of these panels together to make a four board panel. Then I put the two four board panels together to make one large panel. Actually one of the panels had five boards.. Using my 50" Bessey clamps to hold the two panels together. So I had two long panels for the front and back and two short panels for the ends. Then I started working on a sample for the trim or molding to go around the top and bottom. After a few adjustments to the bits, I settled on the way I wanted to make the trim and started routing the pieces. First a couple of passes with the curved bit in the router and the with the round top bit and then a 1/2" round over bit. So I sanded the trim and then started on the feet for the chest. They are double boards so the chest actually sits on one board and the trim sits on the other board. There are blocks behind the feet to attach them to the plywood bottom. So everything is now trimmed up, miters cut and ready to put together. Now it is time to move it to the spray booth and put the water based dye on. I purchased an Antique Cherry dye and I really love the look it gave the chest. I sprayed it on and then took a damp paper towel and smoothed out the finish. If you get a bit much in a spot it is okay, you still have time to smooth it out. I put two coats on and then sprayed on five coats of General Finishes Enduro Var. It was them rubbed out with 0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax.. So there you have the Cherry Blanket Chest from start to finish.
  2. Gerald

    Live Oak Hollowform

    My neighbor had some limbs cut and I picked up some of the pieces thinking firewood, but decided to turn some. Started doing hollowforms and then went on to try dye. It does not show well in the pic but there is violet sanded off and then yellow and then red. Used Chestnut spirit Stains and finished with lacquer. I turned this piece all the way to finish in one sitting and got no movement out of round and this is one of the smallest entry holes I have done so far.
  3. Gerald

    Red on Violet

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Live Oak dyed violet, then red, then yellow.
  4. Gerald

    Telephone Amplifier

    One of our club members made a telephone amplifier so I searched and combined several ideas . The prototype done in pecan was not loud enough maybe due to thickness . The second done in Bradford pear is thinner and is the loudest. When I turned I left the tenon on so I could use it to glue into a backboard so it will not roll. Thought of maybe a flat on the bottom instead but that may reduce the resonance . So the last one I cut slots in and the sound is almost as loud but because of the slots there is a smoother sound.
  5. There are three major types of products that color wood. 1. Dye 2. Pigment 3. Chemical Dye Dyes are chemicals that dissolve into its solvent,that could be water, alcohol, petroleum distillates, or oil. You can find dyes at concentrates as liquids (such as TransTint), powders that you dissolve (Lockwood), or even as part of a canned stain (Minwax Golden Oak). Dyes are dissolved and do not settle out. If you are looking at a can of stain and stir with a paint stick, you will not find any solids at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount by which it is diluted. You can start with a full dose, then dilute part of it to various degrees (half, quarter, etc.) to get the amount of color you want. Keep careful records so you can replicate it if you are making your own dye solutions. Dyes give a very clear coloring, but are more prone to fading over time. Lightfast is more of a relative term. If you get the color too dark, you can wipe with the appropriate solvent and pull out some of the color or you can even add another color to adjust darkness, neutralize (e.g., too red, too yellow, etc.) Pigment Pigments are powders that are suspended in a carrier. Pigments lodge in the grain and pores of the wood (and the sanding marks if you are not careful). And as such, pigments tend to blotch on certain woods due to their varying porousness. Pigments will settle out to the bottom and if you stir a pigmented stain with a paint stick, you will find a muddy residue at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount you wipe off. You can also buy pigments in powder form to make your own products, you can even smudge some powder onto problem spots and lock in place with a spray. Or add pigments on a finishing wiping cloth and pad in some color. These methods are used in touchup. Pigments are usually more lightfast than dyes. Chemicals Chemicals change the color of the wood by chemical reaction. Generally these are acids or alkalis such as ammonia (fumes), lye, potassium permanganate, bichromate of potash, potassium dichromate, iron dissolved in vinegar (iron acetate). The resulting color is not reflected in the color of the solution and the same solution may work differently (or not at all) on different woods due to their different composition. Heartwood and sapwood may also color differently even on the same board. You "control" the color saturation by trials, length of treatment, and in some cases the concentration of the chemical. There are several disadvantages to chemical stains It's a "ready, fire, aim" approach. Run trials. but in many cases, it's going to do what it's going to do and you are not going to stop it. Wood from one tree may not color the same as wood from another tree. Many of these chemicals are toxic or caustic to your skin, eyes, and lungs. Do research and use carefully and with PPE and ventilation. They may be hard to find a place to purchase. A good application of some of these is in inlay work where a chemical may color some of the species, but not others. Again, research, choose woods carefully, and run a trial before slapping on and ruining weeks of work. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&ved=2ahUKEwitk4DxgczcAhWk6YMKHVmTBbsQFjALegQIABAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Femgw.org%2FResources%2FDocuments%2FPapers%20and%20Articles%2FChemicalStains.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0l3kGfTTJa7DxfVTrNs7oH An oddball colorant that does not really fit neatly into any of the above is Gilsonite, AKA asphaltic tar. You can use roofing tar dissolved in paint thinner/mineral spirits to get a mid- to dark-brown color. This is the colorant used in some "walnut" Danish Oil products. It's a nice color that is hard to get with the above. (c) 2018 Keith Mealy
  6. Gerald

    Bradford Pear dyed bowl

    From the album: Bowls and Platters

    Cherry stained and added golf wax
  7. Gerald

    Multi Layer Dye

    Though I would give a step by step on the dye for this platter. Turn the platter back and finish. Reverse and turn the rim leaving center. Now for the dye use dark color or black and sand that back. On this case violet. after sanding apply second color , red. Now after sanding with more emphasis toward the center and apply yellow. oh there is a groove on the outside of the color to define the color line. Then time for finish applied before turning the center and more layers of lacquer.
  8. Gerald

    Dye over lacquer

    I had an ornament with a plain look and decided to try dye. The piece had been finished with lacquer . I applied Chestnut stains dye over the lacquer. This dye has shellac about 5% in it. After the dye was dried with heat gun I applied lacquer. Now for the question will this treatment lead to finish failure?
  9. kmealy

    stain - dye or pigment?

    I was working on a finishing presentation last week. I thought I had a reference in one of my books on decoding Minwax stains into pigment, dye, or both. I don't use them too much any more, but I happened to use some Golden Oak a few weeks ago. I've had good luck with it on red oak and I know it's dye based. But I could not find the reference. After much looking, I wrote to Minwax tech support and asked. They told me all they used were pigments. Idiot. I wrote to Bob Flexner to see if he had ever done the catalog. Low and behold, it's in this week's blog entry. I guess I'm his "woodworking friend." https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/is-there-pigment-or-dye-in-minwax-stains-does-it-matter
  10. Gerald

    Gift bowl w/flowers

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Small hollow form with collar (cherry w/white oak and pecan w/padauk). Flowers turned from pecan and dyed w/ Chestnut Stains.
  11. Gerald

    Curly Maple Dyed Rim (blue-green)

    From the album: Bowls and Platters

    Curly maple done in the Clewes style with rim dyed with Chestnut Stains layered in blue sanded down, then yellow and green. Finish on front is lacquer gloss.
  12. Michael Thuman

    to Spray or brush

    Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
  13. Gerald

    Pecan dyed and gilt

    Here is one on the lathe today . Pecan turned with undercut , then dyed Chesney Stains Royal Blue , then applied gold golf cream.
  14. Gerald

    Curly maple platter

    Clewes did not make it so we had our own turning two weeks ago. Finically got thru with the finish work. Dyed with yellow and royal blue in Chestnut stains alcohol base. Back is shellac sealed and then Watco. Rubbed out with Mcguiar's rubbing cod and polishing cod. Then Renaissance wax.
  15. Gerald

    BOC in blue

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Beads of Courage bowl dyed with Chestnut Stains with overlay of colors (royal blue, red, yellow) on pecan turning.
  16. Gerald

    Flower

    Been wanting to do tulips for a while but instead of cutting the notch ahead wanted to turn thin and carve them. You could say this is a prototype as I plan to mak some changes such as smaller petals. The dye does not do well in pecan. But it is passable.
  17. Gerald

    BOC in red

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Beads of Courage bowl dyed with Chestnut Stains (red, yellow and touch of green) on pecan bowl
  18. Gerald

    Yellow Popcorn

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Popcorn (Chinese tallow) vase dyed yellow with Chestnut Stains
  19. Gerald

    Multi Color vase

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Large vase of Popcorn tree dyed with Chestnut Stains using airbrush.
  20. Gerald

    Beads of Courage

    Finally got a chance to do a photo secession yesterday. This gives me a chance to talk about the Beads of Courage program.This is a link to the artists page for woodturners. Go under the programs tab to read about Beads of Courage. Basically the program give beads to children with critical diseases such as cancer, cystic fibrosis, blood diseases, cardiac diseases and chronic illnesses. The beads are given for each event such as transfusions, treatments, special exams and a long list. Beads are specific for each event group and some are hand blown glass. Last year our club started providing bowls to hold beads to a local childrens hospital which used the BOC program for CF. These bowls can be made from a glue up of dry wood or turned from a green blank which take longer to finish and may explain why we have not had more of these made . Last year we had 7 and this year so far 6. I think I may have done 8 of the total. Oh by the way the program sells BOC beads to place into the bowl and the bead come with a card to place in the bowl with turner info and wood info. The first pic is cherry and the second is chinese tallow (popcorn tree).
  21. Steve Krumanaker

    A few more ornaments

    Segmented plywood this time. Haven't done any of these for a couple years as I couldn't find decent plywood. The last piece I got from Menards had so many voids I threw most of my blanks away. I had a free shipping code from Rockler and bought a 3/4" piece of baltic birch. It was very nice to work with and basically had no waste. Steve
  22. John Morris

    English China Plate Cabinet

    From the album: Old English Plate Shelf

    Finished and ready for delivery. My go to finishing schedule for most of my flat work is water based dyes for color, followed by a coat of boiled linseed oil, then oil based varnish. I still love the warmth and glow of oil based varnishes, it has a warmth that I love.

    © Courtland Woodworks

  23. Gerald

    Dyed bowl

    Have had this piece on my bench for a while. It is spaulted Chinese tallow . I just got another air brush from HF with finer control. It was perfect for this. Used Chestnut Stains in red, royal blue and yellow. In this pic finish is nog quite done.
  24. Gerald

    RedMagnolia.JPG

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    This Spalted Magnolia hollow form is turned from wood from the old Federal Courthouse in Jackson,MS. The tree was cut down by a subcontractor who was not supposed to do that. I asked my DIL what her favorite color was and got pink as the answer. So I did a light red, then use acrylic paint on the rim for a "crowning " touch.
  25. I got a little shop time yesterday! So I thought I'd make a little something for our daughter's violin teacher, she has taken it upon herself to give our daughter lessons pro bono, but we could not have that so I told every now and then I'd get something out of the shop for her. We are starting small at first so I can get an idea of her tastes, once I know what she likes in her home (mountain cabin with cedar walls) then we'll get more extravagant. I decided on a simple little shaker style wall shelf with sliding dovetails. Of course every project starts out with a plank of wood! Then with a couple simple layout tools we can commence to just having some fun and layout some lines. It takes me a few tries before I get something that looks pleasing. It is purely a personal thing, and even after I do the layout and it all looks good on wood, I really don't know what I will think about it until I get it cut out and set it up to see how the proportions look. The idea here is to just have fun with it. After about a dozen tries I finally came out with some lines I enjoy. This photo is the bottom of the wall shelf. You can click on this one to view it larger to see the line. This next photo is the top of the shelf, I loved how this one turned out, I tried some tighter radius's and a thinner top portion, but then I went bold and just used my string bow for the radius. Click on photo for larger image. I cut the first half out on the band saw, I only like cutting up to the line about a 1/6th proud, I am horrible at following a line on the line, if I try to cut to the line I typically cut over it and blow the layout, I am one of those unfortunates that do not have a good eye and steady feed to be able to cut right to the line so I leave the line in place, and spindle sand or plane to the line. Below you'll see the first half is finished, and it is laid up over the second half to mark out. I am pleased with the appearance of the layout after it has been cut out. I have a Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jig that is really handy for these smaller jobs. I like to use the sliding dovetail feature instead of dadoing the shelves in. I like the way the sliding dovetail lends that extra level of assurance that the shelves will not separate from the sides of case work like this. Think about it, an interlocking shelf that with all your might you could not pull apart even before it is glued up, then you add glue, and it would take a herculean effort to pull the sides away from the shelf, I like to make projects to last lifetimes, to hand down to generations. I know this is just a simple shelf, but 150 years from now, it will still be in one piece bar any disaster such as fire or landfill. You could drop this from 10 feet up and it will not separate. I like to think that anything I do will age and gain a rich patina, and the marks of wear from a century of knick knacks along with salt and pepper shakers that will have inhabited the shelf. I like to do my runs in sets, to assure that the two Dovetail slots will line up perfectly. So I clamp my halves together and then I insert the halves in the jig. These halves will stay clamped together for the duration of the slotting operations. You want to be sure you position the clamp in a manner that you do not have to pull it off to make room for the next operation. If you do have to pull it off, you'll need to use a second clamp to secure the boards before you pull off the first clamp. Click on image to enlarge. Just another shot of the two boards in position, the dovetail slot is the longer narrow area in the middle of the template. Now the Porter Cable 4210 Dovetail Jighas a handy little feature just like the bigger jigs do, a router bit depth stop. The depth stop is marked out accordingly, 1/4" for routing dovetail slots in 1/2" lumber, 3/8" for routing slots in 3/4" lumber, and 1/2" for routing slots in 1" lumber. I forgot to say, the PC 4210 comes with bushings and a dovetail bit that are suited for this jig. In this case I set my router bit depth to 3/8", I planed my lumber for the sides to 5/8" to give the shelf some depth and difference in the parts, and I wanted the slot to be routed as deep as possible without compromising the integrity of the sides. Click image to enlarge. With the halves in place and the boards set to the line in the jig ,and the bit depth set, the operation was completed, I am sorry I did not get any pictures of the actual operation, but it would have been difficult to hold the camera in one hand and the router in the other! TIP:When you route the slot, come in from both sides as to prevent tear out. Start from one side, cut the slot length about 90 percent, back your router back down the slot to exit, then come in from the opposite side, this will prevent unsightly blow out of the edges. One slot cut one to go. As you can see the two halves are still clamped up! You want to keep them clamped up until your finished with the slot cutting operations. Now the two halves are rotated 180 degrees (on this piece because of the location of the slots, yours will differ) with some operations you can keep feeding the work in one direction until you run out of room or support, but with this small shelf, it had to be rotated. The opposite end is now in the jig, and just for assurance, even though I drew my lines out accurately, I check the board for squareness in relation to the jig. And the second slot is cut just as the first one was. TIP: Do any sanding of the surface of the slotted boards before you slot them! If you sand them after you slot them, you'll ruin the reference to the dovetailed boards, and you'll create an unsightly gap between the ends of the shelves and the surface of the slotted board. Now with my slots cut and clamp removed I set the two halves out of the way and I get set for the routing operation of the shelf ends for the dovetail style profile. I start off with a piece of scrap the exact same thickness as the shelves. TIP: If your going to thickness plane the shelves, make sure you plane a piece of scrap at the same time to use for a test run in this procedure. In my case, I did not plane the shelves, so I was able to use a cutoff from the band saw operation. This portion of the entire operation is the only time you'll need to make some minor adjustments. The routing of the slots is straight forward, it is what it is, set the depth of the bit, line em up and cut. Routing the ends of the shelves is where all adjustments are made. Set the scrap piece in the jig up to the template, keeping your router bit at the same depth throughout the entire procedure, make your first test cut. Remove your test piece and see how it fits! As you can see my first test run turned out a sloppy fitting joint. Click image to enlarge. To adjust this slop out, you'll need to adjust the black knob, then the brass knob, it only takes a slight twist clockwise of both knobs on each side of the jig to take up the slop, what this does is cut less of the material away by putting more of the lumber under the aluminum jig. You'll have to flip your test piece over or cut off the one end to make a new cut. Since I have slop, there is no re-using the same cut end. If it were too tight, I could turn the knobs counter clockwise, bring the board out from under the template thus cutting more away. Sorry for the poor picture quality on this one, but you can see the adjusting knobs. Ahhhh, perfect fit now!!! You don't want the fit to be snug, you want to be able to slide the piece with some resistance, but not a whole lot, you'll need some room for the glue, and if your doing a multiple shelf glue up you'll be thankful you gave yourself some room, if you don't leave the room, your glue can freeze up the joint before you get it all in place. Now we are ready for the actual shelf to be cut, the shelf is in place. And the first cut is performed. Click on image to enlarge. Once you get it all set up, the rest goes quickly, I routed the ends of my two shelves in 3 minutes. So, with the shelves now routed, the sides are slotted, we are getting ready for glue up. The rest is academic, we all know how to spread glue and insert board "A" into board "B". The only thing I would recommend here is to do a dry fit first, sometimes the boards might fit a little too snug, in which case all I do is wrap some 220 sandpaper around a paint stirrer sized stick and sand the insides of the slots to allow a little more room for the board to slide in. Use plenty of glue, to allow for lubrication while sliding the joints in place. The natural instinct is to use too little,we think that just because it is an interlocking joint that a lil dab will so ya. That may be so, but that lil dab will do ya philosophy will get you in trouble as you slide the joints in place and it freezes up on you half way through. Once the boards are in place, clamp it all up! This project up to this point took me about 2 hrs to complete, it is a simple project, fun to wind down with and you are able to freestyle it. No plans, just your eye. If I would change anything about this one, I would rip the board down to 4" instead of 6" for proportional sake only. Nevertheless I think she'll be happy with the small shelf for the wall of her mountain cabin. The dimensions are 28" tall by 18" wide and 6" deep. Though the routing setup and operation seemed like it took awhile in the tutorial, it actually only took about a half hr for setup, test cut, and final cutting. Once you get to know the jig just like with any jig, it all goes fast. Today I will sand it out to 180, apply some TransFast Early American Maple Dye and we'll talk about the rest of the finishing process in the next post! Thanks all for reading!

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