Greetings all. Quick question here ( I hope). I am building a butcher block rolling island for my daughter (which many of you helped me with in the design stage).

During the thickness planing stage on the butcher block top, I got a couple small tear out spots which are too deep to sand out. I was thinking that I could fill the depressions

with some epoxy. I have never had to use epoxy and am looking for any suggestions any of you may have as to any preferences you may have. Don't need more than a tablespoon

so no large quantity needed. And will epoxy take mineral oil "finish" ok?

Thoughts? And as always, thank you in advance for any assistance.

Gary

 

Gary, if I have a small knothole to fill in a cutting board, I’ll fill it with Loctite epoxy and sand it back.  It won’t absorb mineral oil but ir won’t be affected by it either.  As for tearout, the epoxy may not have enough to adhere to because the tearout is usually pretty shallow.  Try a small area and see how it looks.

 

BTW, I built my wife an edge grained maple table rolling island.  I originally oiled it and didn’t like the way it turned out.  Since we weren’t going to cut on it, I ended up sanding the oil off and applying three coats of satin wipe on poly.  It’s holding up well.

this is why you don't plane end grain.  or if you do, you glue on sacrificial end boards that prevent the tear out.

22 minutes ago, Gary Hanscom said:

And will epoxy take mineral oil "finish" ok?

No, it does not absorb mineral oil.  It will be a shiny spot, albeit smallish.  Had a buddy ask me to do it anyway despite my warning.  The customer was immediately drawn to it.  BUT, she was a rather fussy individual.

2 hours ago, DAB said:

this is why you don't plane end grain.  or if you do, you glue on sacrificial end boards that prevent the tear out.

I am making it with edge grain...maple.

Epoxy will work fine. You might add a bit of colorant to it. IMO, the colored epoxy looks better than clear. A tiny bit on the end of a toothpick will be enough. Stir it well on your pallet. 

Hey Gary, how about foregoing the epoxy and use a plug. Or any shape for that matter. Cut a plug the same species of wood, drill out the unsightly area, plug it, with the end grain butcher block you have, that plug will be nearly invisible as long as you make the plug from end grain. That way you retain the natural integrity of the project, and it will wear longer.

Edge grain, John. But the concept is the same. Might even be easier to match the grain.

Here's a thought.  Maybe an inlay, similar to what John Morris was suggesting.  There are different shapes of inlays available, and you could possibly use a contrasting wood.  Then maybe pick two or three different places to insert an inlay.  Although not needed, they would look like the original inlay, along with the additional ones, were an intentional design element instead of a repair.   

I have only one concern is the proposed peice a cutting board or food prep.  If so is cured expoxy human consumable.

If you want a finish that is durable and eatable try shellac.  

Once ploy and other finishes cure completely they are considered harmless but as others mentioned.

BLO has some metals in it that you do not want in food contact.

Poly is platic and never want to consume it.

Laq is another animal all together.

Please if you are going to finish this use salid bowl oil or shellac only.

 

Dove tail it out a little... Mix saw dust and glue... Fill holes...

Let dry... Sand....

Epoxy will be fine. I make hundreds of cutting boards and at times we have to use it to fill in around a knot or other spot. If the wood is dark like Walnut you can mix a little coffee in it to give that brown color and no one will ever know.