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Showing results for tags 'clamps'.
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Show Me Your Clamp Storage
Ron Dudelston posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Gang, I am officially out of room in my shop so I need to get creative. My pipe clamp storage consists of a peg board with the pipe clamps hanging on hooks. I have about 25 1/2” and 3/4” clamps of varying lengths (2 feet to 6 feet) hanging and I need ideas to consolidate them. So, whatcha got folks?- 19 replies
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- pipe clamps
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I am to Join multiple board together to form a 2.625 x 2.625 block of wood. I cut the width of all my boards to 3" or over 3+" When I check the thickness I am right on 2.625 or just over or just under. These are for the top and bottom rails and legs for a new work bench. When I run the glued up assembly they the jointer again. I will be undersized for my T. What is the minimum board I can perp to be added to the T thickness on a planan safely.? Also because the cut line will be very close to the glue line should I bother? If i gule on a 1/4" board to the ohter already glued boards I will be nearly 3" thick which will get cut back down to 2.625. Can I safel TP solid oak board down to 1/4" or should I add a carrying table? Then how do you go about clamping this thin board. This wood has holes throught by bugs but they do not cause any trouble stucturally just for glue up the glue squeezes thru the holes. So it is one board at a time.
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Spend $15 and what did I get? The 2 chisels were $5 each...dollar for the Visegrips Finger Clamp pliers..and a dollar for the Cincinnati Tool Co. No.540 c clamp...the folding ruler? Blue Grass No. BG 46 Extension Rule...need to clean up the brass slider. Wide chisel is 1-1/2" wide, the other is "just" 1/4" wide The Blue Grass ruler is to replace the broken Lufkin X46 ruler in the shop... Not too bad of a day?
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I built what I thought was the ultimate segment jig only to figure out it was not accurate enough to make perfect joints. So after some deep thought sitting with the hens and sipping on a nice German beer it hit me square in the head what the issue is. The angle can be slightly off if you cut the segments correctly then the complementary angles cancel each other out. I modified my segment jig by removing the first angle guide and making the second on big enough for some Destaco clamps. First I trim one to the angle Then I use a scale to set the length to my stop jig The stop jig overlaps the base so I put a bit of scrap under to lift the scale up After setting the fence to hold the stop jig in the same place each time I flip the part and set the cut and mark the right edge with an X Ready to cut a segment When you assemble the segments the X goes to a blank and the angles are perfect, only a rubber band is holding the segments in place. For glue up I use a hose clamp. I'll add my segment calculator tomorrow in three flavors, excel, open office and a debian install deb. JT
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charger holder for new drill/driver
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Putzing with my Matchfit clamps
Fred W. Hargis Jr posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
A week ago or so, I mentioned here that Taylor tools has a Microjig Matchfit sale for 20% off. These are the dovetail clamps that fit into a 14º DT slot machined into a surface. I have wanted some but always balked at the price. Anyway, with the sale I ordered 4 of the clamps (still expensive with 20% off) to try out and they showed up yesterday. I didn't order the Matchfit DT bit, and while fiddling around with them today I found out the standard 14º DT doesn't quite cut a usable slot. To machine the practice slot, I first cut a square bottom 1/4" slot to relieve some of the strain on the DT bit. I cut it 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep. Then I went through the slot with my DT bit, only to find the clamp wouldn't fit. If you look closely at the Matchfit bit, it cuts a different DT with rounded bottom corners and a roundover on the surface. After some more fiddling, I found if you cut the initial stright cut 3/8" wide, then route the DT the clamps work as designed. So if anyone bought any of them bear this in mind. That said, I can see a lot of uses for these things, as Keith pointed out some time back when he posted about some he had. While I still think they are overpriced, they are quite handy. -
Found this interesting video this morning. Hope you enjoy this. He has ideas.
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- clamp building
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AutoMAXX CLAMPS BEING CLEARNANCED
Fred W. Hargis Jr posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
I don't know if anyone is interested in this, but my not-so-favorite TV woodworker has been crowing about these clamps for the last couple of years. So while looking for EZ outs in Lowes this morning, I saw these clamps on clearance for $7.50, versus the regular price of $30. They are welding clamps, so the pads are slightly smaller than the woodworking ones, and the handles aren't padded....I don't see either stopping anyone from using these on wood. Anyway, if you want some, this may be as cheap as they get. They open to 5", and have a throat of 6"; and yes, they are made in China. Anyway, just thought I'd share.- 14 replies
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cartmMade this a few weeks ago at work to help the guys organize at work. As you can see it's become a maintenance issue.
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The only ones of these I have are the F-clamps. I've been happy with them. I originally got a few as "leave-behinds" but find they work well. Had one where the handle slipped and they replaced it, no questions asked. I noted his comment about "the demise of American-made clamps" https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/harbor-freight-clamps-one-year-later
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He has I believe two of the Delta or jet sanders. He needs clamps I wonder how many kreg automaxx clamps it would take to trade....hummmmm... I want one of those sanders...
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Still with the camera issues today. Waiting on a call back about a second Opinion on this knee. Plywood was rough cut to size. leaving quite a bit extra.. Took a few more cuts to get just the right fit. Even used a block plane to straighten out the saw cuts.....started grabbing clamps and a mallet. Found a couple spots needing trimmed up. Got more clamps down. 6 clamps, so far, and haven't glue things up, yet Had one square inside, to check a corner, or three.. Seemed to be square. Have most of the gaposis fixed. Decided to load the box up, to see how things would fit.. And to figure out where to put a few dividers. The thumbscrew may be a problem. The 12" bevel gauge, may be too long? Close ups? But, at least there might be room IF I find anymore of these? I'll work on this part, and then maybe a lid? Something like this lid? This little box? Is now serving at the Auburn Ave. Baptist Church......Pastor hides his stash of candy in it.....has a place of Honour in his office. I might have enough leftovers to build a lid like this....
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Stumble down to the shop this morning. Raised panel needed fine tuned, before any glue was used. Spokeshave, and a couple other planes to reduce any "fat spots" along the beveled edges. Sandpaper on a block of wood to refine some spots.....finally thought I could spread some Elmer's, and dig out some clamps.. Square and a tape measure showed things weren't quite squared up, so that diagonal clamp to pull it back to square. Better view? That is the spokeshave I used. let this forest of clamps sit a awhile....... Ok, stumbled back down, and checked on the glued up lid. Started removing the clamps....slowly, listening for any weird sounds...Other than dropping one of the clamps...NADA, sooo.. Sat the glued up lid on top of the box, noting where the front and back sides were to go. Will add a filler to un-do that bowed in side. AFTER this has cured for awhile. More views? A few holes to fill in, about the way things go in my shop. Thinking of adding a "bead" just below and above the opening. Bead? Something like these two? Stanley #45 can make these thing fairly quickly. Just have to set the plane up to mill the beads. Now, I think I'll just go and sit down for a while.....and let the Elmer's cure out...
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If anybody is looking for clamps check our Harbor Freight. I got the 6" clamps for $2.99, the 18" for $4.99 and the 12" wooden one for $10. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
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A few days ago, a pkg arrived via UPS. It was a box from Amazon. Knowing I hadn't ordered anything, it was a mystery box. Upon opening it, I was delighted. A good PW buddy, who shall remain anonymous, sent these. THANK YOU! Mr. Anonymous.
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- merle clamps
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Had to repair a "rustic" picture, but it's hard to get a clamp that far in! Could I enter these in the "Whatzit" contest? John
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Looking to buy some universal fence clamps. They look pretty much the same. Looking for brand recommendations. Thank You.
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Bailing wire was once was considered the best known method responsible for the making the American west. Today that has changed by the advent of Duct tape, Super glue, Velcro, as wood crafters Hi tech screws & biscuts. But below I have a helper to act as a second pair of hands for the guy that works by himself in a wood shop, that makes boxes into anything. These supports are similar to those my Grandfather had. The dimensions for each bracket are 3" wide 7" long and 7" tall and made from 1/2 Baltic Birch ply wood as my preferred material for shop jigs & fixtures, for the most part. A base accepts two supports, and is the same width and twice the length (1/2" x3" x 14"). You can go longer but for storage sake I saw no reason because you have so much adjustment. You can leave a tail if you want to clamp the fixture to you work table. My work tables are replaceable so I screw a lot of my fixtures directly to the table. When I get real anal retentive I use a spoil board to attach the fixtures. The base has 4 holes in it. Two of which hold in my case 1/4" " Tee nuts which the first bore in sequence is a counter bore so the t nut will be more than flush with the bottom. In this scenario the counter bore is 3/4' diameter and 3/32" deep centered 2" in from the end. A second pair of "T" nuts can be added down the line but I never found that necessary. The "T" nut holes center treadled shaft required a 5/16" bore to be bored in the center of the "t" nut counter bore. I used a fence and a stop for the counter bore in the same setting for both. I then placed the stop in 1" with the 5/16 bit to bore holes on each end to hang the finished fixtures for storage. Because I am the way that I am a slight counter sink bit cleaned the holes with a slight chamfer. The photo below shows the bases top & bottom. On the supports box joints were used in the 90 degree corner and a 1/4" dado runs parallel the length 1/4" deep and 1/2" in from the edges to accept 1/4" birch plywood corner bracing to maintain a 90 degree angle. A single 1/4 slot is created centered and about 1†from each end it is stopped. This is done on half the support arms to facilitate the adjustment knob & bolt for adjusting the supports in & out. It is a easy task on a router table with stop blocks. A ¼ hole was bored in the path prior as a starter hole. Once the material is finish milled a dry fit is to routing is made. Make double sure in the dry fit process all your joinery is consistent and accurate. The assembly would be matching the two support pieces aligning the dados. Glue is put in the corner joint and the dado. Place the 1/4 ply angle supports in the bottom dados inset about 1/8 from the edge where the corner comes together. Now draw the two support pieces to form the 90 degree angle with the upright of the corner to enter in its dado mate. Remember I said the lower one is only about 1/8 of an inch from the end of the support? That wont allow the support arm pieces to seat into their corner purposely. This is so when you clamp the corner into fit the plywood is firmly and completely seated in that dado. Working in your glue up time, make sure all is aligned and you have solid seated joints. Check the 90 degree angle with a square and make adjustments as needed. This is not the time find your milling is sloppy so make double sure in the dry fit process all your joinery is consistent and accurate. Once I find the support arm is square and all is in place I toe nail a pin front & back, top & bottom of both the angle bracket where it meets the dado penetrating the bracket and the support arm. After assembling the support arms turn your attention to installing the two nuts into the counter bored holes. This production used ¼ x 2 carriage bolts, washers & ¼ threaded mini knobs. The bolts are threaded through the top of the mini knob completely, and a washer is placed over the other end of the bolt and the bolt is inserted through the slot and threaded deep enough to sufficiently garb but not protrude beyond the base bottom side. Now you can use your preference of corner clamps to handle the task at hand. My final thing would storage of these awkward devices. Remember the other holes that I chamfered with a countersink bit, on the ends of the base? They hang like ducks in a row. By Brad Vickery copyright.
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Each Christmas Bessey clamps has a 12 Days Of Christmas Give-a-way on Facebook. This year I was lucky enough to score one of the prizes! Thank You, Bessey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Saw these being used in a YouTube video. Found some at Lowes. They're great for clamping temporary things like stop blocks, etc. Quicker than my 6" Jorgies. They hold well. And, much easier to use than spring clamps.
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Rockler has the Bessy K body Revo Jr's on sale this month. $179.99 for two each of the 18", 24", and 36" clamps. Are these clamps good clamps to purchase or are they to small and flexible? Is this a great price? Danl
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I have between 300 & 400 clamps of all descriptions. I'm currently working on a shelving unit with six shelves. Because the span if 48", I added some front and back stiffeners to the shelf*. I discovered that I can only do two and a half shelves at a time because I ran our of 4 to 12" F-clamps. So I had to do an assembly line and pull from a shelf that had been sitting for 30 minutes to the one being worked up.(Yesterday). Today I'm fastening the shelves to the sides. One of the front clamps on each shelf, one on the back along one side only so I didn't get glue that I could not re-position.. Had just enough clamps that would clamp 48 3/4", but 8 of the 12 would not go another inch. So back to the pipe clamps, found six couplers and grabbed some clamps where I could remove the heads and connect two pipes together to make one longer clamp. Got six more this way, only two short, but I'll make do. You can have a lot of clamps, but you might not always have enough of the sizes you need at once. * Beam strength if proportional to the cube of the height. Doubling the width will double the load bearing capacity. Doubling the depth will increase it by a factor of eight.
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Not much on the yard sale trail, a little bit of rustiness. $1.30 for this mess...might clean up after a while.. Bought out half of the stack, no room for the other two...price per clamp? So far, I have $3.30 for tools this weekend....not that I'm cheap, or anything....just Frugal....
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Marked out where I did NOT want rounded over ( in theory, best laid battle plan?) I wasn't to go past that line on the long sides. Short sides I could plane all day long.. Main tool for this sort of thing was just a block plane. Wasn't trying for a perfect half circle, just enough to "break" the edges. I also planed a bit on the bottom of each part.. As there was a few rough spots. Got the two ends done. Tried to plane the longer ones And forgot what that pencil line was for...ooops. Jointed the edge, re-marked the line with a chisel. Needed a better tool to do the stop cuts.. A spokeshave would do the trick. The chisel and mallet made a better mark to work to. A little better? Flipped the part over, jointed the other side. Got both long sides all planed....might as well find a bunch of clamps, and some Elmer's Think I have enough clamps? Somewhere in there, the lid is glued up. let it sit overnight. Found a small packet in the tool well... Brass hinges. Still had the ACE price tag on them. Might give them a try later. About all I can do for a day...always tomorrow, no rush.
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