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Showing results for tags 'plywood'.
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So I had week off work. Was going to do a couple of small projects for up coming market. Wife sends me a picture showing me a door corner ornament. Not going to lie went Etsy found some laser files, used those as a foundation for Christmas ones. Then as I am in the middle of that do Halloween ones. Argh! Tried both 1/2 and 5mm plywood and 1/16 bit cobwebs breaks every time. Hey I’ll use my laser! Smaller but Halloween ones were done on the Ultra…she ‘snatched’ confiscated a snowman but she did do the face and belly buttons on them. A monster has awaken lol!
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I learned how to make simple storage boxes from a Youtube video. I liked the simple design but i felt it was lacking so I added a handle or two, knob for opening the lid and a way to support the lid in the open position. I feared the weight of the lid in the open position (180° from closed position) might pull the hinge screws out over time so I wanted some kind of stop just past the 90° angle. On the first box I used a chain as a stop but it was difficult to locate the right positions for the chain attachments, determine the right length of the chain and keep the chain out of the way when I closed the box. My final solution was to open the lid to the desired position, place a small block of wood under the edge of the lid and screw it in place. Not necessarily pretty but for utilitarian use I'll take function over form every time.
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(Project In Progress) I'm currently making some wall hangings that I would describe, for lack of a better term, marquetry. They are 1.25" in squares about 3 mm thick that I will glue on some plywood, then trim the edges. The issue going thru my mind is how to glue them on so that the squares are tight against each other and straight in line. I am thinking to use a straightedge like a framing square or just a piece of wood and lay out the center line, let the glue set up, then work my way out. Not sure to go perpendicular or parallel on the next row. Each square will alternate grain direction. I don't really think I can use any clamps because of both the thickness and I don't want to cover the pieces so I can see if they slide out of position. I'm open to ideas and suggestions.
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I designed and cut this from 1/8 and 1/2 Baltic Birch ply. Only took me 4.5 hours of sizing/sawing sheets of BB, drawing the pattern on the wood, setting up the scroll saw and cutting out the design. At such blazing speed, methinks I'm ready for production. NOT! Gotta work on photo orientation, though.
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With the club's long time charity deciding they don't want wooden toys any more, we needed to find a new place. One current place is the local children's hospital taking 30 small boxes a month for the patients to decorate while there and take home. So I started making some. The first batch (6 of them) was mitered corners with a sliding lid, used keys on the corners. Second batch (5) finger-jointed and solid top rabbeted. Looking for something a little more efficient in production. Third was a prototype with an inset lid held with a brass rod as pivot hinge. Ok, but finicky. Forth was today. Mitered corners and inset plywood top and bottom panel. Biscuits to reinforce the miter joints. I did another groove on the inside near the top. Then once the box was assembled and glue dried, did another pass with the 1/4" bit on the router table. This made a double rabbet to hold the lid in place. Saves having to do an inner layer insert. I'll do a run of these when I get some more lumber and plywood. I talked to a local furniture shop last week and they told me the set out their scraps on Monday afternoon for the trash man. I was there and picked some of their cutoffs from the scrap bin;. Most of it was 1/2" poplar, probably drawer sides. A bit of maple and some cherry. In another adventure, I got a bunch of leftovers from red oak flooring (one time find) . Well, started today to rip off the tongue and groove edges so I could do glue-up. Then I thought, hey, the ends are going to be hidden by miter joints, just use them to align the glue up and rip off only the top and bottom edges. Lesson learned. It appears that the groove side is slightly wider on the top than on the bottom. I'm thinking that's so the top joint is tight and the bottom does not matter so much. I got a lot of "cup" in the top that I needed to get out with cauls and now I looks like there's a gap on the bottom of that joint. Well, nice try. Wait for the glue to dry and rip them apart. On the other ones, I will try just trimming off a bit on the groove side to align it up.
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save yur back...
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Here in the midwest it's my understanding and experience that baltic birch plywood is extremely hard to find. One proposed explanation is the war with Russia and the Ukraine is limiting the product. Wondering what other thoughts there are on this subject or if the one explanation I gave is valid.. Thanks
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Hello, D Bryan New to the Group. I make Nativity Scenes for Christmas season. I used treated Plywood last year. It is very ruff does not cut smooth. But will last forever. What would be a better quality plywood that would be durable. I use 3/4”
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Good article I have given up on import plywood. I have found the face veneers super thin and the interior veneers sloppily laid, or as I say,5-12 layer plywood -- lots of voids, layers that have the consistency of straw, and overlaps everywhere. And warps like crazy. Life is too short to be counteracting all those problems. I do use some BCX (B-C grade exterior) plywood for shop projects and it seems to work well. A few years ago, I got some pre-finished plywood for the carcass of cabinets (where the outsides would not be seen as they fit into a recess). That seemed to work well. I got some plywood with the MDF core from a guy who was closing his commercial shop. I've used a bit of it. It seems flat and good but really heavy. I'm about to try some doors to be painted with MDF panels, we'll have to see how that works.
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Chris Schwarz does a simple too chest
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Worked on this while stuck at home. Two 4 X 8' - 3/4" sheets of plywood glued together. Self adhesive edging around the outside edge, several coats of floor quality polyurethane and on 300 lb. capacity wheels. Exact height for using it as an extension table for my table saw.
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Or used a pick up with an 8' bed. Luckily no serious injuries. https://www.foxnews.com/us/florida-driver-escapes-injury-after-plywood-impales-car-windshield
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I was recently drooling, er viewing plywoods at a local (non-Box) wood store and ran across plywood tagged "lightweight". I did find some internet references, so it appears to be a Real Thing. Any of you use it yet? Is this same-O product under different name?
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Still with the camera issues today. Waiting on a call back about a second Opinion on this knee. Plywood was rough cut to size. leaving quite a bit extra.. Took a few more cuts to get just the right fit. Even used a block plane to straighten out the saw cuts.....started grabbing clamps and a mallet. Found a couple spots needing trimmed up. Got more clamps down. 6 clamps, so far, and haven't glue things up, yet Had one square inside, to check a corner, or three.. Seemed to be square. Have most of the gaposis fixed. Decided to load the box up, to see how things would fit.. And to figure out where to put a few dividers. The thumbscrew may be a problem. The 12" bevel gauge, may be too long? Close ups? But, at least there might be room IF I find anymore of these? I'll work on this part, and then maybe a lid? Something like this lid? This little box? Is now serving at the Auburn Ave. Baptist Church......Pastor hides his stash of candy in it.....has a place of Honour in his office. I might have enough leftovers to build a lid like this....
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With the base finished, all that was left to do was trim out the top with the walnut edge trim. Glue, clamps and some pin nails. I forgot to take photos of the top to apron mounting system but this Sketchup drawing should explain what I did. These are simple wooden clips with their tabs captured in slots that run around the perimeter of the inside of the aprons. The slot is 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep. The clips are cut from 3/4" thick maple and the tabs sized of a snug fit in the slots. Screws are used to secure the clip to the top. The hole is slightly over-sized and the screws are the type used for pocket holes- nice large heads. The finished table is awaiting pickup- The church members are going to apply the finish. If they send a picture, I'll add it here. Thanks for following along and the very kind comments that have been posted along the way.
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A couple of weeks ago I got some 3'x8' sheets of plywood off Craig's list for free from a church's festival who decided their day was over. My guess, based on the plywood cores, is that they were made some time in the '80s. Anyway, snatched it up and it's 1/2" painted plywood with lots of sticky Velcro and hot glue on one side. Had to add some 3/4" CDX plywood from the scrap bin waiting-for-the-right-project pile for the torsion boxes. Velcro goes on the non-show surface. I need to get a bit more hardware, then do some alignment and attach the supports. I also have to make a dust hood for the back. Re-purposed those sheets just fine. Re-
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Rockler email today has a video on making a bent lamination chair and has a contest linked to it. It is a interesting process but labor and time intensive. ROCKLER BENT WOOD CHALLENGE
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Home depot has White Oak plywood but I questioned their pro core brand. Turns our that is an MDF core. For the 1/4" back that should not be any trouble because the fasteners go thru material into solid wood. The 3/4" thick is the base of the unit and it fits into dadoes on the sides and front stiles and has magentic catches mounted and has a peice of solid wood glued to the front. Is the MDF core suitable for base of a display case. I am worried about the rigidity and the strength when glued into dadoes? Should I get veneer core 3/4" white oak plywood for the base? I should mention the mdf core is supported all around including the back with screws called to attach the back. Screws into MDF? I am concerned about that also. I think the design was using veneer core.
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We all can see a pie cut in 4 equal pices. Cut some 1/2'' ply/?? to put in the corner of ya shop like a piece of pie, make it as ''deep'' as ya want. Ya gonna attach this to/into a corner of ya shop. Ya gonna set cans of paint, varnish, etc .,etc.. put bigg/higer/taller cans on back, shorter'1's on front. Bout four of these takes care of my messin. Cya.
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Hi, my name is Artie, and I’m new here (maybe 2 months) and new to woodworking. This is my first post on the finishing forum. I just made my first scroll saw project (that story is on the scrolling forum LOL). I made a shamrock, with it being Saint Patricks Day, and all. It is 3/8 Baltic Birch from Woodcraft. Do I sand with a fine sand paper (grade/number?) ? Or as I read somewhere else, do I not sand because the plus are so thin on 3/8? Prime with an interior primer, and then paint with an interior house paint? Latex? Oil based? I was thinking a Kelly Green, semi-gloss. Any thoughts/opinions/advice anyone can throw my way is appreciated. Thank you All, Artie
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This is called a "learning tower". I found it offered by several manufacturers in different versions. This is an adaptation of the idea. I made cribs for my two g-kids (born within a month of each other, they double my maker fun!). The cribs lasted about 8 months before the kid wanted out. I converted one crib to a bed: that might last a while (the other kid likes to sleep on the floor!). Then, there were toys, etc., but for the last two years (and probably next 3), the moms have raved about the learning towers (below: a tower undergoing rigorous prototype testing). In terms of g-papa time invested vs. g-kid use, this one has been a real winner. Baltic birch plywood (the real stuff), pocket screws. One was delivered pre-assembled, the other I assembled on site (they knock down pretty well). I think such adaptation is well within most WWers ability. Still time for xmas. (Revision note: the standing platform is now "skinned" with a 3/8 ply liner that closes the gap seen at right.)
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I started this one a few weeks ago and got sidetracked on other projects. I like to embellish the wood color with contrasting woods and ornamental things. It is not as large as it appears and is about 5" total length. Another Christmas gift
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Tales of the repair guy 1. One job yesterday was to repair a leg on the back of a sofa that had collapsed. I'd say "medium quality" market. Open it up and find the frame and the support block made of that terrible Chinese plywood that must be held together with duck spit. You know, the kind that is 7-12 layers, depending on where you look? Overlaps, voids, plies that look like fine straw? I could literally pull that corner support apart with my fingers and the side frame was not much better. Not to mention those structural staples trying to hold it together. Replaced it with some solid hardwood. Lady watching me was impressed and thought it would be better than new. Yep. 2. I made a couple of free-standing linen cabinets last year. The lumber store led me to their premium ply, what they call "Dragon Ply." This is a large commercial distributor. Told me they have an inspector in the plant, assure high quality, they import a bunch of it and "the Amish love it." So I decided to give it a go. Every time I touched a fresh cut edge, I got these microscopic splinters from the thin face veneer. So fine I could fell them, but not see them, which made removal a problem. Had to back order the 1/4" stuff for the back. When I got it to the shop it looked like a Dorito to the point It was hard to even cut it and keep it against the fence. Never again. 3. I used to have a retail customer that would fly to Mexico, pick up "marble" (limestone) circular table tops and rent a truck to haul them back. He'd have me cut plywood in his warehouse to attach underneath so we could screw on the bases. Most were more than 4' diameter so it would involve a couple of pieces. He was telling what a great deal he got for this plywood at Home Depot. Didn't think much about, but I was not really impressed. He grabbed the cutoffs there and took them out to the covered loading dock in preparation for hauling to the dumpster. Just a light mist but he wanted to wait and make trips when it stopped. I needed to cut a second piece for the table I was working on and I remembered one of the cutoffs would probably work so I walked over by the loading dock. The piece was there, not really wet, but delaminated complete in the high humidity. Like I said, "duck spit" adhesive. Side story: A few months later, he lost his store lease and decided to close the store, have a clearance sale and he and his wife would take some time off. Couple of years later, they bought the lease for a store that was another customer and restarted the business. About six months later, he was busted for hydroponically growing marijuana in his warehouse and working with a ring to sell it at a local high school. Wife kept the business running while he was in the slammer, got out in a few years, and shortly thereafter, gave up the second store. So maybe he was not just bringing tables back from Mexico. His grow operation was in a warehouse that I never worked in.
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Have you ever just really streched your woodworking skills and your design skill to take things to a new level. Well this week I was ask to make a cow. Yep, and cow, but the fun is it will be used for vacation bible school. So here you go, I got some help with the plywood so I didn't have to lift anything and cut out the body. Then the cow got some color. And finally the cow got it's spots. The cow will be used in VBS and will be able to be milked. That part will be finished tomorrow. So boy, this has really streched the design and woodworking skills. LOL!!! So what's the most unusual woodworking project you have built?
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I was asked by our local library if I would build 3 shelving units for storage. I did the project as a public service and only charged for the material. Next time may be different.
