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Hi Everyone This past summer I was asked to create a custom bar top for one of my sons . We originally talked about using slate to fill in the top and would use table top resin to make it smooth. It would maybe have a nice wood frame and would sit on a knee wall in his man-cave. After taking some measurements and discussing options, I suggested maybe doing a custom Intarsia inlayed into the top. He liked the idea so I suggested he find a photo he would like to use as a subject. He sent me a photo he took while on vacation in Hawaii, I thought it would be hard to do as an Intarsia but would see what I could do. I drew up scaled plans for the top showing the layout for the framed intarsia along with the field for the rest of the top. We decided to go with Peruvian Walnut for the frame and accent diamonds and tiger maple for the field pieces . I chose to use 3/4" MDF as a base to build from mostly for overall stability . Did all the millwork for the frame and decided to do accent inlays of Ebony and BE maple around the perimeter. Got all of the maple pieces, diamonds and frame for the intarsia cut and fit into place. On to the custom intarsia.
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Good article I have given up on import plywood. I have found the face veneers super thin and the interior veneers sloppily laid, or as I say,5-12 layer plywood -- lots of voids, layers that have the consistency of straw, and overlaps everywhere. And warps like crazy. Life is too short to be counteracting all those problems. I do use some BCX (B-C grade exterior) plywood for shop projects and it seems to work well. A few years ago, I got some pre-finished plywood for the carcass of cabinets (where the outsides would not be seen as they fit into a recess). That seemed to work well. I got some plywood with the MDF core from a guy who was closing his commercial shop. I've used a bit of it. It seems flat and good but really heavy. I'm about to try some doors to be painted with MDF panels, we'll have to see how that works.
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- plywood
- baltic birch
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Home depot has White Oak plywood but I questioned their pro core brand. Turns our that is an MDF core. For the 1/4" back that should not be any trouble because the fasteners go thru material into solid wood. The 3/4" thick is the base of the unit and it fits into dadoes on the sides and front stiles and has magentic catches mounted and has a peice of solid wood glued to the front. Is the MDF core suitable for base of a display case. I am worried about the rigidity and the strength when glued into dadoes? Should I get veneer core 3/4" white oak plywood for the base? I should mention the mdf core is supported all around including the back with screws called to attach the back. Screws into MDF? I am concerned about that also. I think the design was using veneer core.
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You can buy painter pyramids Or you can make your own. Waiting to try these out. Some scrap melamine MDF and a few biscuits Keeps the project off the table and allows staining or finishing without sticking to the table top or paper. If the back side of something needs finishes and might not be super critical, you can do both sides at once. For example, put these in the hinge holes and pull/knob holes after you've put finish on the back, then do the front and edges.
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Beginning to plan for a workbench for my S-I-L's basement workshop and many ideas/plans call for MDF tops/underlay. His basement is in an old New England farmhouse that is concrete floor and walls but water (not large quantities at all) does enter. It is all channelled to a drain so does not even get onto the main floor. However, the basement is "a little damp" feeling at times. My question is: is higher humidity enough to bother MDF? We're in Maine so it's not like Louisiana humidity but there is some dampness to the place. Thoughts? Thanks Gary
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From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook
This is my first real attempt at painting (back in 1986). It's a 20" x 24" in acrylic. This is also my first attempt at mitering. It's a 1" x 2" MDF that I painted black.© © Cindy Trine
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Been looking at ceiling fans. Just a nice basic 5 blade fan. Looks like all of them marked "inside use" have blades made of mdf. Fans rated for outside use have blades made of abs. We have one fan in the house now with mdf blades - in the kitchen - and they droop. Maybe this is from moisture, or maybe 'cause they are mdf? Will mdf blades start to droop after awhile even in dry rooms? Cal
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- ceiling fan
- mdf
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