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Gary Hanscom

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About Gary Hanscom

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  • My Location
    Brewer, Maine
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  • Favorite Quote
    What? Me worry?

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  1. Gary Hanscom

    Saw Hook for my Pull Saw

    I agree with the fence location. Why not run the fence the entire width (length?) of the jig and have only a saw kerf to keep the blade aligned and have back support on both cut ends? Gary
  2. Gary Hanscom


    I tried using a Sharpie on the inside of the lid on our cremation urn before any finish was applied. Shellac (wipe on) made it run some, not a lot but enough so I wasn't happy with it (cherry). Ended up with a ball-point pen! Shellac did not make it run or smudge at all. Gary
  3. Finished up an urn I made for the LOML and me. Duplex design, cherry with maple accents....my favorite woods to work with. Now we hope that it will be a long time before we get to put anything in it!! Gary
  4. Gary Hanscom

    Herb (dadio) has a new stash...

    Herb is one rich dude!!!
  5. Gary Hanscom

    YouTube makers

    High Falls Furniture...on youtube type HFFCOM (no dot in there) Good stuff, explained, detailed, and sped up when needed. Gary
  6. Gary Hanscom

    MDF and moisture

    Thanks everyone! Great info. Guess it's gonna be a plywood or 2x4 top for us! A bit different here in Maine from Arizona for sure Gene! Gary
  7. Gary Hanscom

    MDF and moisture

    Beginning to plan for a workbench for my S-I-L's basement workshop and many ideas/plans call for MDF tops/underlay. His basement is in an old New England farmhouse that is concrete floor and walls but water (not large quantities at all) does enter. It is all channelled to a drain so does not even get onto the main floor. However, the basement is "a little damp" feeling at times. My question is: is higher humidity enough to bother MDF? We're in Maine so it's not like Louisiana humidity but there is some dampness to the place. Thoughts? Thanks Gary
  8. Gary Hanscom

    When did you start woodworking?

    I grew up in a rural town in Maine in a family (father & uncles) that mostly built their own homes. So I picked up enough on the way to know how to use a level and a hammer, plus a few other tools. After I was married, my wife and I bought an old house that needed a great deal of work. We eventually stripped it to the frame and redid everything interior, plus doors and windows, heat, plumbing & electrical. About that time I was helping one of my uncles build spec homes on a small scale. We worked evenings and weekends, and while I was throwing up 32 S.F. of sheetrock at a glance, my uncle was working on cabinets with more patience than I had ever seen in my life! Work on one corner for an hour to make it perfect. So when it came time to build our new kitchen (and the cost of manufactured cabinets was out of our league) I decided that maybe I could find some of that patience I had seen in my uncle. Long(er) story short, I borrowed some tools and asked a thousand questions and eventually built a pretty nice knotty pine kitchen. Only took me 18 months but what the heck! I found that working on those cabinets was the most therapeutic mental therapy I had ever experienced. So, I just kept playing around as a hobby and still thoroughly enjoy it.
  9. Gary Hanscom

    Heavy rust removal

    Thanks for all the information guys...all great suggestions! Seems that the wire brush on the frill works the best here, very uneven surfaces due to pitting. Kinda looks good with the "rustic" finish!! Thanks again, Gary
  10. Gary Hanscom

    Heavy rust removal

    I have a very old scythe the I believe my grandfather used in the 40's. the blade is heavily rusted/pitted and I would like to "restore" it a bit for my son-in-law's barn. What does everyone recommend as a good rust remover? I can grind it off but with the pitting I fear too much of the old metal would be removed. If I could get a majority off without grinding I feel it will retain more of its originality. Any thoughts? Thanks Gary
  11. Gary Hanscom

    Lie Nielsen

    Well done! Thanks. Gary
  12. Gary Hanscom

    Oddball things at Home Depot

    I ordered some Formica and had it shipped to my home ( I live 8 miles from a HD). NO charge. AND, as we were looking to get it as soon as possible (job at our church) I asked (chat - on line) if it could be shipped any faster than the standard shipping times. The on line chat lady contacted the supplier and had it shipped within 5 days versus 15. Great service and NO charge...same cost as the pieces in store.
  13. Gary Hanscom

    Sketchup for Apple

    Thinking of starting off on Sketchup but was wondering if anyone uses it on Apple products? And if so, what version? Thanks, Gary
  14. Gary Hanscom

    Shellac versus "Sanding Sealer"

    I've used de-waxed shellac for some time now, even as a finish coat. Thinned for a sealer then1 or 2 pound cut for finishing coats. Has a very nice tone to it. I've used it so much over the years that I'm afraid to NOT use it. Works well under polyovereverything as well. I'm now helping a guy build cabinets at our church...oak. Probably just go with a thinned urethane then a few more full coats of it. Thanks for the replies! Gary
  15. Gary Hanscom

    Shellac versus "Sanding Sealer"

    I have used for some time now 100% de-waxed shellac for the first coat or two on most of the items I have built ( and even as finishing coats) BORG doesn't carry this anymore and even folks in these parts in "paint" stores give me a funny look when I ask for 100% de-waxed shellac! The closest I can find any of this shellac is 140 miles away, or by mail order...ground shipping. My question to you all: is the stuff you see on shelves called sanding sealer anything like de-waxed shellac and if not, is it any good? Your thoughts please. Thanks, Gary

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