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Showing results for tags 'baltic birch'.
Found 14 results
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I designed and cut this from 1/8 and 1/2 Baltic Birch ply. Only took me 4.5 hours of sizing/sawing sheets of BB, drawing the pattern on the wood, setting up the scroll saw and cutting out the design. At such blazing speed, methinks I'm ready for production. NOT! Gotta work on photo orientation, though.
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People brought this frame and metal bars for wife to put stained glass in. The clear glass was busted and gone. My problem is the frame is pressed cardboard and the new weight with metal frame and glass is 18.5 lbs. They are wanting the metal bar thing back on the frame after the stained glass is installed?? The first thing I did was install some 1/8" BB on the complete back side of the frame then for the hanger screws I drilled through the frame to the inside and counter sunk a couple of small bolts with eyes for the chain. Now hoping the 1" wide frame with a flat head on the inside of the frame going through a 1/8" hole with holes in the outside ends for the chain has enough strentgh to hold the weight. I hope will be strong enough so we won't get a come back all busted up. The finished glass in the window and the second picture is with the metal fancy cover installed is dull looking for it is inside and not in the window. Second picture is inside so the glass don't show up but it has the metal thing laying there but not screwed down yet.. Problem here, the metal frame was originally installed inside the wood frame. I just flipped it over so it will go one the outside of the frame leaving a smooth surface for the glass to lay on. But now if I drill small holes for the metal frame to be attached back and having to use the same holes only on the other side of the wood, the holes thats is already have been enlarged so the new holes to be drilled will have to have tooth picks with glue inserted in the holes to make them smaller... So since someone did not explain all this extra work on the frame to make it stout enough and how the metal front has to go on the outside of the frame in the same worn out holes I hope I have prepared it all so they will be happy and wife won't have to repair a bunch of busted glass. So the moral of this story is when dealing with customers, let them know what all has to be done before they get their things back. And there is no sense for something going back to the customer until you re completely satisfied with your work. I think the going price for each piece of glass installed is 10.00 I sure hope wife mentioned this to the owners.. smallpatch
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- baltic birch
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I thought this was an interesting build on the SO forum. Origin-built Lathe and Disc Sander - Projects - Shaper Community (shapertools.com) Paul
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This appeared on my YouTube recommend last night. First I'd heard. Looks interesting. For @Gene Howeand @knockonit something to consider in your "neighborhood."
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- bb plywood
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Here in the midwest it's my understanding and experience that baltic birch plywood is extremely hard to find. One proposed explanation is the war with Russia and the Ukraine is limiting the product. Wondering what other thoughts there are on this subject or if the one explanation I gave is valid.. Thanks
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Here is a project I recently completed. 1/2" BB, #65 drill bit, all spiral blades olson #2, FD #2/0, minwax grey stain, 3 coats satin Poly, highlights with craft glitter paint. I used spiral blade to get the thickness of the kerf as close to the drill bit as I could.
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- baltic birch
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Good article I have given up on import plywood. I have found the face veneers super thin and the interior veneers sloppily laid, or as I say,5-12 layer plywood -- lots of voids, layers that have the consistency of straw, and overlaps everywhere. And warps like crazy. Life is too short to be counteracting all those problems. I do use some BCX (B-C grade exterior) plywood for shop projects and it seems to work well. A few years ago, I got some pre-finished plywood for the carcass of cabinets (where the outsides would not be seen as they fit into a recess). That seemed to work well. I got some plywood with the MDF core from a guy who was closing his commercial shop. I've used a bit of it. It seems flat and good but really heavy. I'm about to try some doors to be painted with MDF panels, we'll have to see how that works.
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Glad I did this. Found quite a few things to be done differently. Namely, make it smaller and forget the glasses. Use 3/8" material for the lid and bottom and, 1/2" box joints. Now, it's time for a conversation with the mesquite.
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This morning I looked over what I did last night by bringing up the man chicken to the top. When I do things I have no plans for the next step as Paul Harvey would say.. I show what I mean by not thinking...See the parts of three biscuits up top inside the frame..I put them 1/4" from the bottom of the 1" thick maple.. All these pieces will be glued on to the 1/2" BB which I installed to the back side of the frame so I can have something to carry around as I go from station to station doing all kinds of shaping of the pieces of wood..I didn't need biscuits to start with but that's just a habit I acquired when edge joining all my wood.. So whats my plan?? Don't know till I get back out there and see where I can do the least amount of damage and make it look like I am always under control... Now I am thinking I can make these funny shaped things look like UFO's have invaded the fowl ranch.... Another strange thing happened this morning...I took this picture this morning.. I down loaded it this morning then after eating breakfast I come over here and started this post and tried to find the picture..No luck so I go back out to the shop and take another picture and come in and load it. I tried to find it to post here and couldn't find it.. Come here wife and help me for this computer is being strange this morning....I screw around for an hour or so then I looked down and notice the date is Feb 1,,,,,, so that is where my pictures went for I been looking under January... and they start a new series of pictures each month. Like I said I am slow and sometimes I am dead stopped...Now I am sorry to say all these feathers will all be different when I get through playing and as I said before I have no plan.. so as long as the colors and stains last I will keep having fun experimenting. Never done a man chicken before so I hope I shape things in the right directions.. Got to look up UF0's before I go to the shop.. I got some round dowels I could turn in to wheels and tires but not too many pictures of them being built that way???
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Hi, I am hoping that some of our very knowledgeable members here will share their bountiful wisdom with me. (Did I lay it on too thick?) A good friend of mine has a small cabinet in his bathroom that matches their medicine cabinet. It appears that the wrong hinges were used on this cabinet. For the cabinet door to lay flat against the face of the cabinet, the hinges would need to be spaced out from the face by 1/8-3/16 of an inch. My friend tried to force it shut, and well........ the door didn’t take kindly to that. So the advice part.... I believe this is what is called a raised panel door. I have a cheap raised door panel router bit set coming from MLCS. I’m planning on making the door frame out of Poplar, and was thinking that a 3/4 piece of Baltic Birch could be the raised panel. The total dimensions of the door is 13x16x3/4. Will wood movement between the Poplar, and the BB (on account of them being different woods) doom my work? I have never glued up boards to make a panel yet, and it seems cutting a piece of BB square would be fairly easy (you know, for someone like me ). Is using a router bit ( I know to make small cuts, and sneak up onto my final dimensions) on BB worse for the bit, with the glue of BB versus glued up Poplar? This is a cheap cabinet, and I know it would be much cheaper to buy a new one, but I want to make this, and get me some new learning in. As always any thoughts, advice, opinions, are welcome. Thank you. Artie
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Hi, my name is Artie, and I’m new here (maybe 2 months) and new to woodworking. This is my first post on the finishing forum. I just made my first scroll saw project (that story is on the scrolling forum LOL). I made a shamrock, with it being Saint Patricks Day, and all. It is 3/8 Baltic Birch from Woodcraft. Do I sand with a fine sand paper (grade/number?) ? Or as I read somewhere else, do I not sand because the plus are so thin on 3/8? Prime with an interior primer, and then paint with an interior house paint? Latex? Oil based? I was thinking a Kelly Green, semi-gloss. Any thoughts/opinions/advice anyone can throw my way is appreciated. Thank you All, Artie
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Walnut vanity is coming along today. This will go into our quarter bath. The slides are self closing Blu Motion. Base coat of Watco Teak oil followed up with General Finishes Gel Top Coat. Two more coats to go with a 320 grit sanding between coats. My family loves it. I do too! It will be free standing, or floating about 8" above the floor secured in a corner.
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Below is a star shaped bowl made entirely with the scroll saw, The woods used are sapelle and baltic birch plywood. The bowl consists alternating layers of sapelle and baltic birch plywood. There is just one ring that was cut and then glued on to the base. The bowl is just 4 inches in diameter and about 2 inches high. After sanding to 220 grit the bowl was sealed with a 75 / 25 pure tung oil and mineral spirit mix. After the mix set it was then sanded to 400 and a top coat of shellac was applied. Very easy to make. DW
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From the album: My Entries in the MH NWA Woodworking Show
The butterfly is made from baltic birch and finished with Clear Spray Lacquer. The base is made from Bubinga and finished with Natural Danish Oil. The Butterfly is not glued into the base for ease of transport.© I found this pattern in a Steve Good email.
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