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Found 10 results

  1. Glad I did this. Found quite a few things to be done differently. Namely, make it smaller and forget the glasses. Use 3/8" material for the lid and bottom and, 1/2" box joints. Now, it's time for a conversation with the mesquite.
  2. This morning I looked over what I did last night by bringing up the man chicken to the top. When I do things I have no plans for the next step as Paul Harvey would say.. I show what I mean by not thinking...See the parts of three biscuits up top inside the frame..I put them 1/4" from the bottom of the 1" thick maple.. All these pieces will be glued on to the 1/2" BB which I installed to the back side of the frame so I can have something to carry around as I go from station to station doing all kinds of shaping of the pieces of wood..I didn't need biscuits to start with but that's just a habit I acquired when edge joining all my wood.. So whats my plan?? Don't know till I get back out there and see where I can do the least amount of damage and make it look like I am always under control... Now I am thinking I can make these funny shaped things look like UFO's have invaded the fowl ranch.... Another strange thing happened this morning...I took this picture this morning.. I down loaded it this morning then after eating breakfast I come over here and started this post and tried to find the picture..No luck so I go back out to the shop and take another picture and come in and load it. I tried to find it to post here and couldn't find it.. Come here wife and help me for this computer is being strange this morning....I screw around for an hour or so then I looked down and notice the date is Feb 1,,,,,, so that is where my pictures went for I been looking under January... and they start a new series of pictures each month. Like I said I am slow and sometimes I am dead stopped...Now I am sorry to say all these feathers will all be different when I get through playing and as I said before I have no plan.. so as long as the colors and stains last I will keep having fun experimenting. Never done a man chicken before so I hope I shape things in the right directions.. Got to look up UF0's before I go to the shop.. I got some round dowels I could turn in to wheels and tires but not too many pictures of them being built that way???
  3. Hi, I am hoping that some of our very knowledgeable members here will share their bountiful wisdom with me. (Did I lay it on too thick?) A good friend of mine has a small cabinet in his bathroom that matches their medicine cabinet. It appears that the wrong hinges were used on this cabinet. For the cabinet door to lay flat against the face of the cabinet, the hinges would need to be spaced out from the face by 1/8-3/16 of an inch. My friend tried to force it shut, and well........ the door didn’t take kindly to that. So the advice part.... I believe this is what is called a raised panel door. I have a cheap raised door panel router bit set coming from MLCS. I’m planning on making the door frame out of Poplar, and was thinking that a 3/4 piece of Baltic Birch could be the raised panel. The total dimensions of the door is 13x16x3/4. Will wood movement between the Poplar, and the BB (on account of them being different woods) doom my work? I have never glued up boards to make a panel yet, and it seems cutting a piece of BB square would be fairly easy (you know, for someone like me ). Is using a router bit ( I know to make small cuts, and sneak up onto my final dimensions) on BB worse for the bit, with the glue of BB versus glued up Poplar? This is a cheap cabinet, and I know it would be much cheaper to buy a new one, but I want to make this, and get me some new learning in. As always any thoughts, advice, opinions, are welcome. Thank you. Artie
  4. The only problem with me is I can see a few more days grinding on the next thing I start after I said its finished... I changed the way I attached the things to the board! More easier than the epoxy thingy. All my carving stuff is for head on looking. I'll get around to the sides and back if there are enough years left. Baltic Birch for the backer board. I used 100% tung oil to bring out the color and maybe a little extra enhancement also. This wood is exotic as I ever go and it is actually local. The bottom picture is with a flash. The finish is lacquer. Another thing I generally do after the lacquer has dried a couple days is use 0000 steel wool and Johnson't paste wax on all the high spots to give it that old look that has been well kept and in good condition.
  5. I have a production project in the plans which will require mortising and bent lamination, so I took the time to build a mortising jig and a beam compass. I will be test driving them after the project design is approved on Labor Day weekend. Mortising jig The mortising jig design is original, but has features borrowed from Jeff Miller and Philip Morley. It is approx. 16”x 30” x 5” with a ¾” x 5” x 36” base boards. The primary materials used are 4/4 maple lumber, ½” Baltic birch ply, and ¾” Prowood birch U-V ply. The red stops are made from scrap cherry painted. The jig can be easily clamped to a work bench and all of the accessories can be stored in the back of the jig. The work piece is referenced on primary, secondary, and ternary surfaces. The primary surface is made from two pieces of birch ply glued together. Clamping takes advantage of the Microjig dovetail clamp riding in a 14 deg. dovetail track groove. If your work piece is difficult to load and reference when the jig is up-right position, the jig can be positioned horizontally, so that it takes advantage of gravity loading. The clamps have a limitation of a 4” opening with 595 lbs. clamping pressure each. The router edge guide maple runner was machined at the same time the guide groove spacer. During assemble a paper shim (~0.004”) was added to allow the guide to run parallel to the work piece. All surfaces received a light coat of Johnson paste wax. Beam compass The compass was built from scrap ¼” x ¾” x as needed cherry material. It can make an approx. 14” radius. The design is not original. Danl
  6. Artie

    Shamrock

    Hi, my name is Artie, and I’m new here (maybe 2 months) and new to woodworking. This is my first post on the finishing forum. I just made my first scroll saw project (that story is on the scrolling forum LOL). I made a shamrock, with it being Saint Patricks Day, and all. It is 3/8 Baltic Birch from Woodcraft. Do I sand with a fine sand paper (grade/number?) ? Or as I read somewhere else, do I not sand because the plus are so thin on 3/8? Prime with an interior primer, and then paint with an interior house paint? Latex? Oil based? I was thinking a Kelly Green, semi-gloss. Any thoughts/opinions/advice anyone can throw my way is appreciated. Thank you All, Artie
  7. Walnut vanity is coming along today. This will go into our quarter bath. The slides are self closing Blu Motion. Base coat of Watco Teak oil followed up with General Finishes Gel Top Coat. Two more coats to go with a 320 grit sanding between coats. My family loves it. I do too! It will be free standing, or floating about 8" above the floor secured in a corner.
  8. Did a little lumber shopping today. This is our local hardwood dealer. Reel Lumber of Riverside CA. Great folks, great selection. My haul, a sheet of 3/8" BB and some Cherry for more stools. Heading home now!
  9. Below is a star shaped bowl made entirely with the scroll saw,  The woods used are sapelle and baltic birch plywood.  The bowl consists  alternating layers of sapelle and baltic birch plywood.  There is just one ring that was cut and then glued on to the base.  The bowl is just 4 inches in diameter and about 2 inches high.  After sanding to 220 grit the bowl was sealed with a 75 / 25 pure tung oil and mineral spirit mix.  After the mix set it was then sanded to 400 and a top coat of shellac was applied.  Very easy to make.       DW
  10. From the album: My Entries in the MH NWA Woodworking Show

    The butterfly is made from baltic birch and finished with Clear Spray Lacquer. The base is made from Bubinga and finished with Natural Danish Oil. The Butterfly is not glued into the base for ease of transport.

    © I found this pattern in a Steve Good email.

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