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Showing results for tags 'door'.
Found 17 results
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When we last visited this issue, I had the Roof on and the sides wrapped. This week I gave up on the free door. It was left outside too long, and the wood core was rotting, so on my way to the orange box store for fasteners, I decided to buy a storm door that gave me the option of have a sliding window for more ventilation. Then I built two seven-foot by 30 inch tables for SWMBO's plants Now I have to frame in windows on each end of the house, and build two more tables, 5' long x 4' wide. Once the growing season is over, I have to dig out the floor and put something suitable down. This is the madness she's creating. This is her She-shed This is the dining room and this is the entry area
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- greenhouse
- shingle
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The boss says the weekend is over so it’s back to work. This is a phase of the project that is going to get tedious by the end but has to be done. The doors in this house are the standard raised panel doors that are pressed out of some material to look wood like. We will be replacing them all (18) with new doors made of Sapele. I am driving over to the coast tomorrow to pick up 700 bd ft of it in 4/4. 100 bd ft is for Static LV, another friend is going in for an additional 100 bd ft. It looks like this project will use about 500 bd ft for the doors, jambs and molding. I will be laminating up 4/4 to give us 1 1/2” thick doors. The molding for the reeded glass interiors as well as a Zagarat design on top of the doors will be Wenge. In the past I have used a Shopsmith in horizontal drilling mode to fasten the rails and stiles with 3/4” dowels. This time I am contemplating picking up a Festool 700 domino tool for the job. Sapele is fairly hard stuff and drilling it is not going to be fun. It’s very similar to red oak in hardness. I am just not sure that dumping that much money into the domino tool is worth it. We are going to give Tectus hinges a go on this project for the first time. I have several friends who have switched over to them and rave about them. Having concealed and completely adjustable door hinges appeals to Ileene. They are pretty straight forward to install with the Shaper Origin and I ordered up one pair to do a mock up which went pretty well. Paul
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My neighbor needed two additional doors to complete his kitchen so I made them today. It was the first chance to do cabinet doors on the new drum sander. Paul
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Got a question for y'all. I'm on my 6 or 7th sliding screen door since we bought our home in 2001. They have all been replacements from the typical Lowes or HD store, I even bought the "heavy duty" ones and they all fail after a couple years or less, the wheels lose their resistance in the spring mechanism and end up going up into the door too much, and eventually the slider is sliding metal to metal on the track. Or the wheels themselves wear out, or the screen gets trashed by pets. I have today surfed the net and seen many "heavy duty pet resistant sliding screen doors" but they don't seem that heavy duty to me once I see the specs. Does anyone have any good experiences with these sliders? And if so, what brand did you purchase? Thanks
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When I retired many years ago, I built on to the side of my shop and added another 12'x32'. It was divided into three rooms, one being an office. I had intended to put a door on the office to keep the noise and dust out since that is where my computer and 3D printer lived. So I finally got around to building the door sometime back. It is on a barn style rail and the rail is mounted inside the office. I build the door out of a lot of the pieces I had left over from cutting boards I made and thought it would be cool if the door looked like some of my cutting boards. The top has double pain tempered glass so I can see out if someone were to come into the shop while I was in the office. Don't like surprises. Frame of the door is Cherry and the trim around the door and the window are Hickory. I still have a few things to tidy up and need to put down the threshold.
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If you recall, I ordered one door and then ordered the remaining doors for my home. I wanted a 1/16”/3-deg bevel on both vertical stiles and I was willing to pay for the custom profiles. The manufacture calls this profile a 1/16” net bevel. Cutting the bevel is not to reduce the width of the stock door, on one face side. The 1st door was ordered incorrectly and made incorrectly. It had the bevel on one stile and on the other stile the bevel was tapered for ~ 14-1/2”. The manufacture was willing to replace this door. The replacement door was worse. See pic. Top and bottom widths are different by 1/8”. The bevels are tapered on both stiles and the hinge side stile has a 1/8” bow. I installed the original door along with the replacement door. The original door fit fine, but the replacement door had to have a shim added under the bottom hinge and has a goofy fit along the door stop. I only have two hinges holding each door. If I had three hinges, I would have to rip a straight edge on the replacement door for the middle hinge to fit. The other six hinged doors were ordered correctly and are acceptable. The bevels were not great, but the door jambs accepted the doors. All twenty of the bi-fold doors were ordered incorrectly and made incorrectly. The widths of the doors were not consistent with the ordering data and the ordering data was incorrect. I had to rip 3/32” to 1/8” off each door. While ripping the stiles, it was obvious that many stiles had a slight bow (1/32’ – 1/16”). The doors were sized by left/right door sets and one complete closet set had six bent hinges. I notified my supplier and the door manufacturer sent me new hinges. I ripped material from each hinge stile so that it would not be noticeable when the doors were hung. I noticed that the doors were pre-drilled for an upper and lower pivot guide. The hole was to be 1-1/4” from the outer edge. The hole location range was 1-1/16” to 1-3/16” and not consistent per door. Normally, a door cannot pivot if the upper and lower holes do not have the same location, but there is enough slop in the pivot guides to allow for this error. The hole depths were to be 1-3/8” deep. Actual hole depths were 1 – 2” deep. I had to redrill two holes. The pivot guides only needed 1-3/16” deep holes so many of the holes were Ok, even though they were not 1-3/8” deep. The doors are solid core with a 1/16” hardwood veneer. The outer stiles have hardwood exposed. Prior to spraying a WB finish, I sanded each door with p220, vacuumed the dust, and then wiped them with a tack cloth. The manufacturing finishing instructions notes that using a WB finish may cause raising grain and require extra sanding. After applying one coat of what Sherwin-Williams calls a surfacer, I had nine closet doors with issues. I was able to rework three of the doors. To my surprise, except for one door, the defects which I was not able to correct were located on the inner side of the closet or are now not noticeable. I did not have any veneer issues with the eight hinged doors. I did not immediately notify the door supplier because I needed to get the doors sprayed before the mid-west weather turned cold and damp and thought if I were to receive replacement closet doors, I would apply the finish next spring. In hind-sight, I would order stock doors, bought a Mikita track saw, and ripped the outer stiles as desired. I am sure I would have been dollars ahead and would have had less frustration. Below are a few pics of the defects prior to repair or spraying the final top-coat. I did not get what I paid for. Danl
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Neighbor has a two story house with up and down options when you go into the foyer. At the bottom of the stairs he installed another door with a lock to keep the kids out of the basement. 10 years ago he and his buddy did the ceiling down in the basement. The house has a I beam that runs across the center. This beam was used for the HVAC vents and such. So it hangs down from the ceiling. They went around this with some framing, it hangs lower that a typical doorframe. So of course a typical borg doorframe will be too tall to let you open the door. At the time they half wit cut a door and frame but never filled in the cut at the bottom of the door. The door finally failed, might have been helped along by his kids playing king of the stairs. So I had him rip out the mess and started from scratch. Used 1x6 I cut down to make the frame and used the cut off for the jam pieces. Bought a door and cut at the top so the predrilled handle stayed at the correct height. Then took a 2x4 and cut it down to the correct size to put it between the skins and glued it in place. Last thing I did was space the lockset side to the door so the spacing is correct. Nothing fancy but now the door comes 1 inch below the ceiling obstruction. At 74 inches you need to be short to not bust your head open. Thankfully everyone at his place is under 6 feet. Not the best of lighting, I have that to address for him next. As for the painting, that is his part of this project. If he works at his normal speed, maybe 2 years. I installed all the doors upstairs last year in March, still not painted.
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Hi here i go again. Bought a veneer door from big box stoors. Says finish with oil based material. Oil based stain still around oil based poly or lacq no more. 1. Finish sand 320 then 400. 2. Apply minwax dye/stain. 3. Seal with sellac blonde or garnet. 1.5 lbs cut two coats. 4. Sand down shellac where needed. 5. Apply water based poly or lacq. The veneer does not play well with water. How does my above receipe sound?
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Maple and Walnut
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Doing more organization in the shop, I ran across the last door installation job I did back in 2009. My old invoice to the prop. mngt. company. My ol business cards. And a couple little cabinet jobs I had sketched up and ready to go. Great memories, I met a lot of good people and customers, I loved being on on the road and working for folks, I got along with em all, a lot of repeat business by word of mouth only, never had to advertise. My wife has been a stay at home wife and Mom since we been married, I always had a regular day job, and my own side business up until 2009 to keep us going. Now my day job is at the point it can support the family on it's own, still always looking for that overtime though! I remember this last door job vividly, wonderful customers. It was a good day too, made about 250 bucks before lunch. My home made business cards that my wife made. This was a little pine cabinet I made for another awesome customer, I installed this in their laundry room. They fed me lunch! I still have all my door installation tools, I'll never give them up, you never know when the bills may get a bit too much, it's always great to have a backup trade. Thanks for following me down memory lane.
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From the album: my furniture
rustic cherry door -
From the album: Pine Stepback Cupboard
View of the inside of the bookcase, with the door opened. -
Want to install glass into an old grandfather clock door but found the door frame was warped,how do I straighten the frame? Thanks
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Hi Y'all, I kept making stupid math errors when cutting out the parts for raised panel doors and drawer fronts, and also drawer boxes. I found other calculators online, but none of them did all the things I wanted, so I built my own. The idea is to input the fixed parameters like rail/stile width and interlock only once. Then, you have places to input several different door and drawer sizes on one sheet. Print it out and carry it to the shop where you'll have the dimensions for all your pieces-parts in one handy chart. Door and Drawer Calculator.xlsx
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- calculator
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From the album: Enclosed End Table in White Oak
Detail of the inside of the door. Also showing the edge detail on the corner post -
From the album: Enclosed End Table in White Oak
Detail of the door. Corners are made with bridle joints, panel is a raised panel. Bright steel hinges. Edge Deatil on the top. -
This weekend we took out one of the old garage doors and replaced it with a regular door. As I get ready for the shop expansion, the entrance door was on the side of the shop. When we dig all of that out and the get ready and pour concrete I wasn't going to have a way in and out of the shop without raising the garage door. Long story, but it was going to be way too much trouble and the door was in bad shape anyway. So the old door came out and we Josh and I framed up and install a new door to the shop from the front. When I a ready to open the side up and attach the new addition, I will take down the siding over there and put on the front, so this is just temporary for now. We set to the door off center so it will give you a straight path into the shop. Also as I bring in a long board, it will come straight in and be in line with the SCMS. So no turns and or twist or spinning the board around to get it on the saw. Also when we are bring a finished project out now, it will come straight out and we don't have to go around the side of the shop to come out and then turn back into the driveway. So it is not happening as fast as I would like, but we are getting there. We had a couple of days of good weather and the hole was starting to dry up, but there is rain in the forecast today so we will be further delayed. we will get there soon though, I am sure.
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