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Showing results for tags 'raised panel'.
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A few weeks ago mama decided she wanted a cabinet to store her arts and crafts supplies that are taking up floor space in our upstairs hallway. She went shopping online and found a cabinet she liked for 230 bucks, and it was the typical particle board white surface type of stuff. So I told her I'd be happy to build it and the materials would be less as well. So she and I went to our lumber store and picked up some 4/4 poplar, poplar because she wants the exterior painted white, and I want the interior natural finished. We will be using General Finishes Milk Paint for the exterior. Also, I am going to build saw tooth shelf supports as well. This is our hardwood lumber dealer "Reel Lumber", about 30 miles from home, it's full of all kinds of stuff, from pine to oak to exotics and everything in between. Our Poplar was running about 2.70 a board foot. I spent about 150 bucks, and with the Milk Paint, we are going to come under budget from her online cabinet she wanted, and we are going to have a piece of furniture to pass down to our kids, and their kids. Got the boards home and had to size and join them. Note: if you look behind my Makita CMS, you'll see a cross with a flame in a heart plaque, when I was going through some serious health issues a year ago, my friend Jess @Smallpatch, sent me this very special and inspiring gift, it lifted my spirits enormously, and when I felt I needed a little nudge from the Lord while working in the shop during that rough time, all I had to do was look at my plaque, and I felt it. To this day I cherish it, and I feel the Spirit in it. Just a board on the bench, laying out dado's. Glued up. I built the face frame with a Kreg pocket screw jig, and then glued the frame to the case, and bored holes in the face frame for 1/4" dowels, 1 1/2" long and glued and driven in to the case, then a flush cut hand saw and cut the dowels flush and block planed them smooth. Since the case is going to be painted, I thought adding the extra strength of the dowels would be good since you won't see them below the paint. I also mixed up some two part epoxy and floated it over each dowel, let dry then sanded smooth, just so there weren't any issues with the end grain of the dowels sucking up the paint. Joining boards for the raised panels. Getting the rails and stiles ready for the raised panel doors, I was playing with my Stanley 45 yesterday, and after a few tweaks here and there, she purred and plowed, making some wonderful clean 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep grooves to accept the raised panel. The grooves turned out very nice. After running the grooves in, I used a block plane to take a whisper shaving off the top to clean up the surface. Within an hour I had two rails and one stile done, and I was starting on the second stile when mama called me in for dinner last night. Here is where the case is as of today. The backed boards are beveled and nailed off on the back of the cabinet. Today I am gluing up the door panels. I'll keep the images coming, and thanks for looking! My very special cup, that a friend gave me, and also a cup for mama too!
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- general finishes
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Well, the Christmas Gift Exchange list is out.....I have to find a present for my Grand daughter-in-law...... Bought about 25bft of Quarter Sawn Ash, today.... There are 11 boards in that stack..average width is just under 6"....all are around 3/4" thick. Hmmmmm, how about a Blanket/ Hope Chest build? Frame and panel? Or maybe a "6 board" style? been a while since I built a chest....maybe see what I can come up with? Give things about a week, or so...while the Single Brain Cell Sketch Up works things up into a "Plan" have to work around the snipes, though. grain looks decent enough....fellow did have a rack of these boards, so I might go back IF I need any more... Dovetailed corners? or, Tongue & Groove corners? Raised of flat panels....Bread board ends on a lid? Stay tuned..
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- project idea
- christmas present
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Tool box Project Post, opened lid.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Pipe Thread Tap & Die Box
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Tool box Project Post, full set.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Pipe Thread Tap & Die Box
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Tool box Project Post, hinge details.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Pipe Thread Tap & Die Box
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Tool box Project Post, end details.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Pipe Thread Tap & Die Box
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Tool box Project Post, corner view.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Pipe Thread Tap & Die Box
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Tool box Project Post, Front view.JPG
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Pipe Thread Tap & Die Box
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From the album: Lecterns and Podiums
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I'm a newbie to this task. I have red oak kitchen cabinets that I want to sand and restain. My problem is the length of time it takes to sand down ONE door. and I have about 35 doors to refinish. They are what I believe are called "raised panel" doors, but there are about 6 different edges - 4 are about 1/8 inch. In addition, the surface of one inset has a curved profile. I bought a rotary sander that works great on the flat areas. BUT, I am shopping around for "detail sanding" tools and not having luck finding the right tool. Yes, I found a sanding sponge with an edge - still a lot of manual work ! I've been looking at oscillating sanding tools, but am striking out. I also see a "sanding mop" out there - pretty pricey and I'm not sure how well it works. If it works, I'd pay the price... WHAT DETAIL SANDING TOOLS SHOULD I BE USING ? thanks for any shared wisdom ! dmypub
- 30 replies
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- cabinet doors
- raised panel
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Got to start somewhere. Breaking down a couple of 4/4 x6 x8' Walnut planks. Cut a few down to match the raised panels I made a while back. Cleaned up the rough sawn edges a bit, and marked them for a rip cut. After a rip down the middle, these will go on the ends, to house them raised panels. Going to get these to a somewhat finished sized, and then smooth the faces up. Less to plane, that way. Tried to handsaw these boards down, ran out of breath ( COPD??) so an OLD Sears Craftsman Circular saw was used. It will also do all the rip cuts. Corner posts were straight edged up. Then set up for a rip down the middle. I'll then add a Tongue & groove joint to the edges of the corner posts.
- 15 replies
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- tongue and groove
- rough sawn
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From the album: Walnut Cradle
Back side of the cradle.- 3 comments
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From the album: Walnut Cradle
This right end also has a pin to restrict the rocking action. -
From the album: Walnut Cradle
Left end of the cradle. -
From the album: Margaret's Kitchen Make Over
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front view.jpg
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Walnut & Cherry Box
Showing the front, with the raised Cherry panel's grain -
top of lid.jpg
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Walnut & Cherry Box
View of the top's raised panel. 3pc glue-up for the panel. Then hand planes to "raise" the profile Finger lift area was bandsawn out. -
Hi Y'all, I kept making stupid math errors when cutting out the parts for raised panel doors and drawer fronts, and also drawer boxes. I found other calculators online, but none of them did all the things I wanted, so I built my own. The idea is to input the fixed parameters like rail/stile width and interlock only once. Then, you have places to input several different door and drawer sizes on one sheet. Print it out and carry it to the shop where you'll have the dimensions for all your pieces-parts in one handy chart. Door and Drawer Calculator.xlsx
- 13 replies
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- calculator
- drawer
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Cherry Entertainment Towers Posted 8/25/2007 11:36 PM CDT Had been encouraged by the wife to build these for some time now. Spent maybe a year checking other designs an making plans. Tracking my time and will give it when finish. The towers are 6 ft tall X 22 inch wide and 24 inch deep.Caucus began with making raised panels for the sides. The sizes basically echo the interior. The panels are prefinished with BLO and Garnet Shellac for base color. Will cover all with varnish on exterior when complete. Glue up of a panel this size and number of panels was a challenge and provided several lessons in how to get the panels and rail in evenly. Dados cut into rails to fit plywood shelves and make for a more secure joint. Caracas glue up using blocks cut to ensure square. Sides are rabbited to give more glue area for face frames. Face frames are joined together with pocket screws. Caracas with face frame attached now ready for base of 2X4 lumber with covering of cherry with simple molded edge The crown molding was a 4 piece made at the router table (top plate, crown and cove) and tablesaw (dentel) This is what the build on the molding looks like. After a few years we got rid of the old tv for an LED so needed a stand.. Made this to fit the existing spot and placed wheels on it for ease of wiring. Shelves made to fit existing equipment . Was expecting to place the bass in the large hole and place a door on it but changed my mind after reading about magnets and tvs. Used pocket screws for a hump over the wheels so that they do not appear to the eye, This almost makes the shlf look like it is floating . Once trim was added to front wheels are covered. Forgot to take a pic of the completed stand so had to stop and do that. The top is beaded and has a beaded molding added plus a cove.
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I just entered a blog which I placed on another forum back in 07 and added some new material. It was a fun build ,but was working at the time so it took 11 months. Go over to Blogs and have a look . Hope you enjoy.
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- blog
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18th Century Connecticut Blanket Chest (drawer and bottom)
John Morris posted a gallery image in Furniture
From the album: 18th Century Connecticut Blanket Chest
I don't remember if the raised panel was part of the American Woodworker plan or not, but I raised the drawer bottom panel by hand with a Stanley No.4 smoothing plane. It turned out really nice and I was very happy with the results.-
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From the album: Pine Is Fine Shop Jigs
Here is a quick and easy raised panel table saw jig I made today. The raised panel is just a test cut using 3/4 birch veneer I had laying around.- 2 comments
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Or trying. Got a frame all cobbled up Might need a little fine tuning. Got a panel ready to fit inside this frame Speed square to guide the circular saw to make that cut. Blade was set to almost cut through. Rather than mark up my fancy jigs. Needed to bevel four outside edges, like a raised panel Clamped the panel flat onto the jig. Worked the end grain edges first. Just used a Jack plane for this. Marked a line 1" in from the edge, and started to plane back to the line, at a bevel. Get to about 1/2" thick on the edge, and reclamp to do another edge. OK, that was strange, photo posted to the top? Well, after the edges were beveled until them met in a diagonal line at the corners, I flipped the panel over, and set up a Wards #78 And cut a rebate around the panel's inside edges. A Test fit Fine tune it a bit, add a bit of glue, and some real clamps......One end panel is now glueing up, and sitting in the pipe clamps. Taking up most of the bench space. Will just have to wait awhile, then do the other end. Stay tuned, might be a tool chest show up? Planer? I'm the 'planer', and these are what I use...
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Well, there is all the parts Frame & Panel parts. Just finished milling the last leg parts.Had some nasty stuff to cut away, though Just to make two back leg blanks for the end panels. Cleaned up some rails Set up a three screw jig to remove the "cope" from the tenon. Used a #3 handplane to "Chute" away the lip, and mill the shoulder back to square. Third screw is behind this rail. Most of the old parts had a two layer "veneer" , some even had a thick paper as the outer layer. Pried most of it off, to get down to the "real wood" underneath the glue. Milled a few last grooves, and will start to mill tenons tomorrow, I hope. Even tried a test fit Ok, so I still have some work to do on this.... Raised panels have been sitting around, awaiting to be installed in the frames. Trying to build this chest with just the parts scrounged from the old bed frame. Might even have enough left over, to glue up a fancy lid... Stay tuned...