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Found 18 results

  1. Neighbor has a two story house with up and down options when you go into the foyer. At the bottom of the stairs he installed another door with a lock to keep the kids out of the basement. 10 years ago he and his buddy did the ceiling down in the basement. The house has a I beam that runs across the center. This beam was used for the HVAC vents and such. So it hangs down from the ceiling. They went around this with some framing, it hangs lower that a typical doorframe. So of course a typical borg doorframe will be too tall to let you open the door. At the time they half wit cut a door and frame but never filled in the cut at the bottom of the door. The door finally failed, might have been helped along by his kids playing king of the stairs. So I had him rip out the mess and started from scratch. Used 1x6 I cut down to make the frame and used the cut off for the jam pieces. Bought a door and cut at the top so the predrilled handle stayed at the correct height. Then took a 2x4 and cut it down to the correct size to put it between the skins and glued it in place. Last thing I did was space the lockset side to the door so the spacing is correct. Nothing fancy but now the door comes 1 inch below the ceiling obstruction. At 74 inches you need to be short to not bust your head open. Thankfully everyone at his place is under 6 feet. Not the best of lighting, I have that to address for him next. As for the painting, that is his part of this project. If he works at his normal speed, maybe 2 years. I installed all the doors upstairs last year in March, still not painted.
  2. Hi here i go again. Bought a veneer door from big box stoors. Says finish with oil based material. Oil based stain still around oil based poly or lacq no more. 1. Finish sand 320 then 400. 2. Apply minwax dye/stain. 3. Seal with sellac blonde or garnet. 1.5 lbs cut two coats. 4. Sand down shellac where needed. 5. Apply water based poly or lacq. The veneer does not play well with water. How does my above receipe sound?
  3. I have a door that at the bottom of my walk out basement. During a very heavy downpour the slab out side the door was flodded and the water came above the threshhold of the door. Causing a little mess. I want to raise the door and install a waterproof curb then install ramps to get object in and out of the door. The header is just a bunch of 2x6's laid on the 1 1/2 T edge and there are like 20 of them going up the top sill. I can just take out two then raise the door 3" and that shold be fine. Does anyone have any idea how to create a curb that will not leak?
  4. Ok... I've tried several different hinges (BTW, I will NEVER use a piano hinge again... I officially hate them now) for my concealed cabinets, but can't seem to find one that works for me. Trying to make a horizontally hinged cabinet (open overhead or down). None of them seem to work the way I need/want. Now I know that it is highly likely due to operator error. I've tried using the 110 degree hinges, but it doesn't even open to 90. I don't think I can use the sunk concealed hinge because the face is slightly less than 3/4", the 'base' is the 1.5" side of a 2x4. Here's a rough diagram of what I am working with... The face sits flush (maybe SLIGHTLY offset from the edge). The measurements are the same whether it's a top or bottom hinged cabinet. For a bottom hinged cabinet, it needs to open to at least 90 degrees (it will have chains to keep it from dropping past 90). For top hinged, it needs to open past 90 degrees, preferably around 135 degrees. Thoughts?
  5. hingesMy utility building doors need to be replaced and I'm looking for recommendations for what wood to use. The original doors were made of 1/2" ply with pine boards for trim. I'm experiencing some rotting in the ply at the bottom of the doors. Should I use 1/2" pressure treated ply or something else. Also having some issues with the pine trim where the door hinges attach. some of the hinges constantly work loose where they attach to the doors. OK on the building side of the hinges. I'm planning to use 1 1/4" screws to attach the trim to the ply. Here's a photo of the existing doors.
  6. Doing more organization in the shop, I ran across the last door installation job I did back in 2009. My old invoice to the prop. mngt. company. My ol business cards. And a couple little cabinet jobs I had sketched up and ready to go. Great memories, I met a lot of good people and customers, I loved being on on the road and working for folks, I got along with em all, a lot of repeat business by word of mouth only, never had to advertise. My wife has been a stay at home wife and Mom since we been married, I always had a regular day job, and my own side business up until 2009 to keep us going. Now my day job is at the point it can support the family on it's own, still always looking for that overtime though! I remember this last door job vividly, wonderful customers. It was a good day too, made about 250 bucks before lunch. My home made business cards that my wife made. This was a little pine cabinet I made for another awesome customer, I installed this in their laundry room. They fed me lunch! I still have all my door installation tools, I'll never give them up, you never know when the bills may get a bit too much, it's always great to have a backup trade. Thanks for following me down memory lane.
  7. shawnbrad

    rustic cherry door

    From the album: my furniture

    rustic cherry door
  8. From the album: Pine Stepback Cupboard

    View of the inside of the bookcase, with the door opened.
  9. Interesting article / excerpt on cabinet door options https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/12/08/door-types/#respond
  10. Want to install glass into an old grandfather clock door but found the door frame was warped,how do I straighten the frame? Thanks
  11. Hi Y'all, I kept making stupid math errors when cutting out the parts for raised panel doors and drawer fronts, and also drawer boxes. I found other calculators online, but none of them did all the things I wanted, so I built my own. The idea is to input the fixed parameters like rail/stile width and interlock only once. Then, you have places to input several different door and drawer sizes on one sheet. Print it out and carry it to the shop where you'll have the dimensions for all your pieces-parts in one handy chart. Door and Drawer Calculator.xlsx
  12. steven newman


    From the album: Enclosed End Table in White Oak

    Detail of the inside of the door. Also showing the edge detail on the corner post
  13. steven newman


    From the album: Enclosed End Table in White Oak

    Detail of the door. Corners are made with bridle joints, panel is a raised panel. Bright steel hinges. Edge Deatil on the top.
  14. Well, lots of problems to fight through today. Door has been fine tuned to fit it's new home. Involved a lot of handplane work, I centered the panel to get rid of the gaps, then pinned it place. Was going to use the router to edge the sides and top with.....Could not get that #$@#$ collar out of the fixed base. Ok, we have ways.... Since I had bought this as a kit, I had a plunge base with it. Look right below the left handle, there are two plugs there. Matched the grain exactly between the plugs and the spot where they went. Pared off flat, sanded smooth( dried glue is a bear to get off planes) Got some cleats installed, and installed a floor, of sorts.. Didn't have enough plywood, so I hope this will do? Last two corner blocks were installed, with glue & screws.. And I cut some slots in all four of them. Easy enough to do, just drill a through hole, then rock the drill back and forth until a slot shows up. Reaching inside to screw the backtwo corner blocks in place was...interesting. Good thing the screw held on to my driverbit. Got the door hung, adjusted, and a handle on board. Rounded the corners of the top with a beltsander. Could have used the sabresaw, but the blade would deflect too much. Installed the handle on the door. Set this thing up on the bench, run the router around the sides I could get to, lift the beast up, roatae 180* and do what was missed. And ( drum roll, if you please) a PIP of this Enad Table in Oak I even made a sample, for the Boss to lok at, of a coat of BLO....it looks a bit on the light side. Up to her. Have it sitting beside her chair right now. Kind of leaves an empty feeling... Been awhile since I've seen that much open space.... Awaiting Boss' orders on what to finish it with, then I might post as a Project, IF anyone wants...
  15. This weekend we took out one of the old garage doors and replaced it with a regular door. As I get ready for the shop expansion, the entrance door was on the side of the shop. When we dig all of that out and the get ready and pour concrete I wasn't going to have a way in and out of the shop without raising the garage door. Long story, but it was going to be way too much trouble and the door was in bad shape anyway. So the old door came out and we Josh and I framed up and install a new door to the shop from the front. When I a ready to open the side up and attach the new addition, I will take down the siding over there and put on the front, so this is just temporary for now. We set to the door off center so it will give you a straight path into the shop. Also as I bring in a long board, it will come straight in and be in line with the SCMS. So no turns and or twist or spinning the board around to get it on the saw. Also when we are bring a finished project out now, it will come straight out and we don't have to go around the side of the shop to come out and then turn back into the driveway. So it is not happening as fast as I would like, but we are getting there. We had a couple of days of good weather and the hole was starting to dry up, but there is rain in the forecast today so we will be further delayed. we will get there soon though, I am sure.
  16. Ok got a few things done. One stile is now completed. Grooves and mortise cut, cut outs for the rails to snuggle into. GGrooves were cut with a Plough Plane From about 1860 or so. makes some nice curlies Got some mortises finshed up One for the bottom rail Top rail's mortise. Note a 45 degree cut? The rail will match this, will look like a mitered joint. The center Lock rail was a bit different Double tenons. Double 45s. Grooved on one side, will have a rebate on the other when things get put together. Checked the joint for square, then marked out for the tenons. Not too bad, so far. Need to cut a few tenons next. Then locate WHERE a middle stile will go. Make that part, and measure for a couple raised panels. Might do one big panel, rip it to size, and have a book-matched panel for the bottomof the door. So far, mainly hand tools...LOTS of them. List of "Toys" so far: Mortise Chisels 3/16" and 1/4" Firmer chisels BIG hammer, as the wood mallet just won't drive the Mortise chisels Couple of squares Marking/cutting guage Plough plane, 1/4' x 1/4" grooves Low angle Block plane, #1455 Gents Saw, crosscut/miter cuts Backsaw, filed rip. For rip cuts Full sized handsaw, 8ppi crosscut, cut the boards to length. ( cheated on some, got out the Craftsman 7-1/4 circular saw) Tape measure, of course. Might come in handy? Stay tuned, the CUSSING is just beginning...
  17. That got in the way of the Screen Door project. The door to the Dungeon Shop/ Basement used to have an old surface latch, that the landlord replaced with a parted out door knob-like object. After awhile, that THING was trashed out. Been using the large hole as a hand hold to open and close the door. Picked up a lockset at the Restore Store for $3. It at least was all there. Had a 1" Forstner bit to try to drill a hole for the latch. Had to take the bit back down to the shop, and sharpen it a bit. made a mess on the Kitchen floor, though That I will hear about. Wound up sweeping it down the stairs, and sweeping the stairs as well. 1" wide chisel to mortise out for the latch plate. Happened to fal right on the lock rail tenon. Screws MIGHT hold. Assembled the lockset Might have to add some white paint, later The old strike plate for the surface lock is now being reused. And.....everything WORKS! Imagine that! Now, maybe I can get on with a screen door project...
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