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Found 12 results

  1. If you recall, I ordered one door and then ordered the remaining doors for my home. I wanted a 1/16”/3-deg bevel on both vertical stiles and I was willing to pay for the custom profiles. The manufacture calls this profile a 1/16” net bevel. Cutting the bevel is not to reduce the width of the stock door, on one face side. The 1st door was ordered incorrectly and made incorrectly. It had the bevel on one stile and on the other stile the bevel was tapered for ~ 14-1/2”. The manufacture was willing to replace this door. The replacement door was worse. See pic. Top and bottom widths are different by 1/8”. The bevels are tapered on both stiles and the hinge side stile has a 1/8” bow. I installed the original door along with the replacement door. The original door fit fine, but the replacement door had to have a shim added under the bottom hinge and has a goofy fit along the door stop. I only have two hinges holding each door. If I had three hinges, I would have to rip a straight edge on the replacement door for the middle hinge to fit. The other six hinged doors were ordered correctly and are acceptable. The bevels were not great, but the door jambs accepted the doors. All twenty of the bi-fold doors were ordered incorrectly and made incorrectly. The widths of the doors were not consistent with the ordering data and the ordering data was incorrect. I had to rip 3/32” to 1/8” off each door. While ripping the stiles, it was obvious that many stiles had a slight bow (1/32’ – 1/16”). The doors were sized by left/right door sets and one complete closet set had six bent hinges. I notified my supplier and the door manufacturer sent me new hinges. I ripped material from each hinge stile so that it would not be noticeable when the doors were hung. I noticed that the doors were pre-drilled for an upper and lower pivot guide. The hole was to be 1-1/4” from the outer edge. The hole location range was 1-1/16” to 1-3/16” and not consistent per door. Normally, a door cannot pivot if the upper and lower holes do not have the same location, but there is enough slop in the pivot guides to allow for this error. The hole depths were to be 1-3/8” deep. Actual hole depths were 1 – 2” deep. I had to redrill two holes. The pivot guides only needed 1-3/16” deep holes so many of the holes were Ok, even though they were not 1-3/8” deep. The doors are solid core with a 1/16” hardwood veneer. The outer stiles have hardwood exposed. Prior to spraying a WB finish, I sanded each door with p220, vacuumed the dust, and then wiped them with a tack cloth. The manufacturing finishing instructions notes that using a WB finish may cause raising grain and require extra sanding. After applying one coat of what Sherwin-Williams calls a surfacer, I had nine closet doors with issues. I was able to rework three of the doors. To my surprise, except for one door, the defects which I was not able to correct were located on the inner side of the closet or are now not noticeable. I did not have any veneer issues with the eight hinged doors. I did not immediately notify the door supplier because I needed to get the doors sprayed before the mid-west weather turned cold and damp and thought if I were to receive replacement closet doors, I would apply the finish next spring. In hind-sight, I would order stock doors, bought a Mikita track saw, and ripped the outer stiles as desired. I am sure I would have been dollars ahead and would have had less frustration. Below are a few pics of the defects prior to repair or spraying the final top-coat. I did not get what I paid for. Danl
  2. Neighbor has a two story house with up and down options when you go into the foyer. At the bottom of the stairs he installed another door with a lock to keep the kids out of the basement. 10 years ago he and his buddy did the ceiling down in the basement. The house has a I beam that runs across the center. This beam was used for the HVAC vents and such. So it hangs down from the ceiling. They went around this with some framing, it hangs lower that a typical doorframe. So of course a typical borg doorframe will be too tall to let you open the door. At the time they half wit cut a door and frame but never filled in the cut at the bottom of the door. The door finally failed, might have been helped along by his kids playing king of the stairs. So I had him rip out the mess and started from scratch. Used 1x6 I cut down to make the frame and used the cut off for the jam pieces. Bought a door and cut at the top so the predrilled handle stayed at the correct height. Then took a 2x4 and cut it down to the correct size to put it between the skins and glued it in place. Last thing I did was space the lockset side to the door so the spacing is correct. Nothing fancy but now the door comes 1 inch below the ceiling obstruction. At 74 inches you need to be short to not bust your head open. Thankfully everyone at his place is under 6 feet. Not the best of lighting, I have that to address for him next. As for the painting, that is his part of this project. If he works at his normal speed, maybe 2 years. I installed all the doors upstairs last year in March, still not painted.
  3. Hi here i go again. Bought a veneer door from big box stoors. Says finish with oil based material. Oil based stain still around oil based poly or lacq no more. 1. Finish sand 320 then 400. 2. Apply minwax dye/stain. 3. Seal with sellac blonde or garnet. 1.5 lbs cut two coats. 4. Sand down shellac where needed. 5. Apply water based poly or lacq. The veneer does not play well with water. How does my above receipe sound?
  4. Doing more organization in the shop, I ran across the last door installation job I did back in 2009. My old invoice to the prop. mngt. company. My ol business cards. And a couple little cabinet jobs I had sketched up and ready to go. Great memories, I met a lot of good people and customers, I loved being on on the road and working for folks, I got along with em all, a lot of repeat business by word of mouth only, never had to advertise. My wife has been a stay at home wife and Mom since we been married, I always had a regular day job, and my own side business up until 2009 to keep us going. Now my day job is at the point it can support the family on it's own, still always looking for that overtime though! I remember this last door job vividly, wonderful customers. It was a good day too, made about 250 bucks before lunch. My home made business cards that my wife made. This was a little pine cabinet I made for another awesome customer, I installed this in their laundry room. They fed me lunch! I still have all my door installation tools, I'll never give them up, you never know when the bills may get a bit too much, it's always great to have a backup trade. Thanks for following me down memory lane.
  5. shawnbrad

    rustic cherry door

    From the album: my furniture

    rustic cherry door
  6. From the album: Pine Stepback Cupboard

    View of the inside of the bookcase, with the door opened.
  7. Want to install glass into an old grandfather clock door but found the door frame was warped,how do I straighten the frame? Thanks
  8. Hi Y'all, I kept making stupid math errors when cutting out the parts for raised panel doors and drawer fronts, and also drawer boxes. I found other calculators online, but none of them did all the things I wanted, so I built my own. The idea is to input the fixed parameters like rail/stile width and interlock only once. Then, you have places to input several different door and drawer sizes on one sheet. Print it out and carry it to the shop where you'll have the dimensions for all your pieces-parts in one handy chart. Door and Drawer Calculator.xlsx
  9. steven newman


    From the album: Enclosed End Table in White Oak

    Detail of the inside of the door. Also showing the edge detail on the corner post
  10. steven newman


    From the album: Enclosed End Table in White Oak

    Detail of the door. Corners are made with bridle joints, panel is a raised panel. Bright steel hinges. Edge Deatil on the top.
  11. This weekend we took out one of the old garage doors and replaced it with a regular door. As I get ready for the shop expansion, the entrance door was on the side of the shop. When we dig all of that out and the get ready and pour concrete I wasn't going to have a way in and out of the shop without raising the garage door. Long story, but it was going to be way too much trouble and the door was in bad shape anyway. So the old door came out and we Josh and I framed up and install a new door to the shop from the front. When I a ready to open the side up and attach the new addition, I will take down the siding over there and put on the front, so this is just temporary for now. We set to the door off center so it will give you a straight path into the shop. Also as I bring in a long board, it will come straight in and be in line with the SCMS. So no turns and or twist or spinning the board around to get it on the saw. Also when we are bring a finished project out now, it will come straight out and we don't have to go around the side of the shop to come out and then turn back into the driveway. So it is not happening as fast as I would like, but we are getting there. We had a couple of days of good weather and the hole was starting to dry up, but there is rain in the forecast today so we will be further delayed. we will get there soon though, I am sure.
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