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Showing results for tags 'veneer'.
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Someone local to me has a Hickory veneer roll, 3 3/8" x 250', from a product line called "Proflex" that require the veneer and a substrate. See the Marketplace listing here. My questions are as follows: 1. Is it possible to "re-hydrate" this roll, as suggested? 2. Can something like this be easily cut down into narrower strips? (for example, for use on a bookshelf) 3. Is this a fair price and should I consider it? Thanks for your thoughts everybody!
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Someone posted on a refinishing/repair forum that she had a table she'd like to repair. Of the 350 replies, over half recommend more sanding, belt sander, 40-60 grit, hand plane. Sure recipe for blowing thru the veneer. How do I know it's veneer? Look at the edge banding. Solid wood top would never look like that. Look at the grain pattern, it's not edge glued planks. Geez oh pete. Just for reference, strip with chemicals, apply oxalic acid bleach, sand lightly with about 220, and refinish.
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Lots happening this past week! Our Patriot Turners- @keith long stopped by to say "Hi". He is busy with life and doing well. He had some questions about lathe parts. Check out his post and see if you can add to what has been said- Keith also had a question about what wood species would be best for making duck calls. If you make them or know what would work best, maybe you could help him out- @kreisdorph resurrected an older post about bowl drying. He added some great additional information. Check out the entire thread here- Kent also gave us a nice review on a book for identifying wood species. Thanks!!! @Gerald is recovering from knee surgery and snuck back into the shop to work on some projects. Hope he got back into his recliner before the Mrs. got home See what else he did at- Our "What's On Your Lathe" thread continues to generate awesome projects. @kreisdorph, @teesquare and @RustyFN showed us some fantastic work. Start here to catch up on all the projects- @StaticLV2 continues to work on his segmented turnings He posted this one in the "What's On Your Weekend Agenda" And, from our "OFF The Lathe and Finished' thread- @kreisdorph and @RustyFN posted some gorgeous turnings. Catch up with all these items here- What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links to registration and more information- For The Newbies- Ask ten turners what is the best finish and you will likely get at least 15 different answers. One finish that often mentioned is shellac. This video from Kent Weakley explains why shellac is appropriate. This is the link to his article on shellac and how to mix it- https://turnawoodbowl.com/make-shellac-wood-bowl-finish/ Turned wooden boxes make nice gifts. Sam Angelo demonstrates turning one from start to finish. Looks like Sam needs to turn the heat up in his shop. I don't endorse wearing gloves, but that's just me. Craft Supplies USA has a step by step video on turning a pepper mill. Expand Your Horizons- Richard Raffan demonstrates turning one of his signature scoops. Awesome skew work and check out the shop made, lathe mounted sanding disc. Lyle Jamieson provides tip for preventing vibration when turning finials New Turning Items- Ron Brown has a new parting tool to use with his "Bowl From A Board" jig- Everything Else- This past week, in another Patriot forum, there has been a very informative discussion on liability for the stuff we make. This video, from Alan Stratton, addresses some of the regulations for a specific item. Safe turning
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If you recall, I ordered one door and then ordered the remaining doors for my home. I wanted a 1/16”/3-deg bevel on both vertical stiles and I was willing to pay for the custom profiles. The manufacture calls this profile a 1/16” net bevel. Cutting the bevel is not to reduce the width of the stock door, on one face side. The 1st door was ordered incorrectly and made incorrectly. It had the bevel on one stile and on the other stile the bevel was tapered for ~ 14-1/2”. The manufacture was willing to replace this door. The replacement door was worse. See pic. Top and bottom widths are different by 1/8”. The bevels are tapered on both stiles and the hinge side stile has a 1/8” bow. I installed the original door along with the replacement door. The original door fit fine, but the replacement door had to have a shim added under the bottom hinge and has a goofy fit along the door stop. I only have two hinges holding each door. If I had three hinges, I would have to rip a straight edge on the replacement door for the middle hinge to fit. The other six hinged doors were ordered correctly and are acceptable. The bevels were not great, but the door jambs accepted the doors. All twenty of the bi-fold doors were ordered incorrectly and made incorrectly. The widths of the doors were not consistent with the ordering data and the ordering data was incorrect. I had to rip 3/32” to 1/8” off each door. While ripping the stiles, it was obvious that many stiles had a slight bow (1/32’ – 1/16”). The doors were sized by left/right door sets and one complete closet set had six bent hinges. I notified my supplier and the door manufacturer sent me new hinges. I ripped material from each hinge stile so that it would not be noticeable when the doors were hung. I noticed that the doors were pre-drilled for an upper and lower pivot guide. The hole was to be 1-1/4” from the outer edge. The hole location range was 1-1/16” to 1-3/16” and not consistent per door. Normally, a door cannot pivot if the upper and lower holes do not have the same location, but there is enough slop in the pivot guides to allow for this error. The hole depths were to be 1-3/8” deep. Actual hole depths were 1 – 2” deep. I had to redrill two holes. The pivot guides only needed 1-3/16” deep holes so many of the holes were Ok, even though they were not 1-3/8” deep. The doors are solid core with a 1/16” hardwood veneer. The outer stiles have hardwood exposed. Prior to spraying a WB finish, I sanded each door with p220, vacuumed the dust, and then wiped them with a tack cloth. The manufacturing finishing instructions notes that using a WB finish may cause raising grain and require extra sanding. After applying one coat of what Sherwin-Williams calls a surfacer, I had nine closet doors with issues. I was able to rework three of the doors. To my surprise, except for one door, the defects which I was not able to correct were located on the inner side of the closet or are now not noticeable. I did not have any veneer issues with the eight hinged doors. I did not immediately notify the door supplier because I needed to get the doors sprayed before the mid-west weather turned cold and damp and thought if I were to receive replacement closet doors, I would apply the finish next spring. In hind-sight, I would order stock doors, bought a Mikita track saw, and ripped the outer stiles as desired. I am sure I would have been dollars ahead and would have had less frustration. Below are a few pics of the defects prior to repair or spraying the final top-coat. I did not get what I paid for. Danl
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Got this from a friend this morning. Just a warning: I am redoing my kitchen and have been staining my Maple molding and drawer fronts with TransTint, No problem. But when I stained the veneer on my island and stiles & rails it turned blotchy. I called them this morning and asked them how to fix it, they told me it won't work on veneer! I used denatured alcohol as I was told water would cause the veneer to expand. The fellow I talked with said it didn't matter.
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Hi here i go again. Bought a veneer door from big box stoors. Says finish with oil based material. Oil based stain still around oil based poly or lacq no more. 1. Finish sand 320 then 400. 2. Apply minwax dye/stain. 3. Seal with sellac blonde or garnet. 1.5 lbs cut two coats. 4. Sand down shellac where needed. 5. Apply water based poly or lacq. The veneer does not play well with water. How does my above receipe sound?
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This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. -
One Christmas I made a bunch of Walnut veneer scrapbooks.
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Please see the below where I have unstainable squigles in the raised panel. Probably glue line or squeeze out. Do I dare to strip and sand out risking cutting thru the veneer? Maybe a brown and black sharpe? Need your help!
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Hello, My sister has done some much for me in my life that I am going to make her some Kitchen Cabinets for her ski condo in Colorado. I am going to make them out of prefinished maple plywood with a rustic hickory face frame and doors. This will be the biggest project that I have ever done. For the sides of the cabinets that will be exposed, I am going to cover them with a 1/4" one sided rustic hickory on MDF. I have worked with MDF before but not the prefinished Maple plywood. I would want to glue the MDF to the sides of the prefinished maple plywood (I could only get the maple plywood 2 sided) and want to know if anyone else has faced this issue? Would I have to scuff the finish up with a low grit sandpaper, or can I use tightbond III glue straight? Best regards, Ron
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Well, I posted the other day that my 20 year old DeWalt 733 planer died and that I would probably repurpose it into a veneer press. That is now complete. Here's the finished press - And the 'making of' video - Enjoy! David
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Good Evening Friends, We are so busy in the shop that I just now got time to write the quiz; So here goes; How would you hide sanded through spots in veneer? Especially where they would be seen.
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Medallion -none of the work was in veneer it was all 13/16'' stock.. the medallion surround is hand hewn black walnut... (scorped)... TS and miter trimmer for the primary tools...
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Wood Magazine has an 11 part video series on veneering posted on YouTube. Here's part #1 (the other parts are linked from there-
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Veneering a piece of MDF for the humidor back- You can't have too many clamps
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From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture
Here is the finished product for the Maple and Red Oak Toy Box. The client picked out an Early American stain, to give it that 18th/19th century look. You can also use this as a heirloom blanket chest.
