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Found 14 results

  1. Looking around for ideas, found this one sitting in the dinning room window sill... Along with a writing desk...figured IF I change a couple details...like make the drawers 4" deep...and the sides into Frame & Raised Panel...hmmmm.. There is a Mystery board in the latest stash.. Is the 1 x 8...Ash..or...White Oak? Them be Ray Flecks... Have a few defects to work around... At least in the 1 x 6 shorts...and one end will need trimmed up. Yep, THAT one.. Next, decide which to use.. As either raised panels, or, the 4" deep drawer fronts...either way, both will be 4" wide...have to decide how LONG to cut them... Will need 4 stiles, just have to figure out how TALL this case will be...and then how long to make the rails... Starting tomorrow, when I haul a couple 1 x 6s to the shop...and the "Timer" set at 90 minutes...we'll see how much cussing will be needed.. Stay tuned...
  2. Vacillated on this or the Turning forum and this one won. I had a box with lid on the headstock of my lathe and every time I needed something inside it have to lift the top and probably drop something. So decided a drawer would work better. Used mostly scraps I had in the shop. Box was the easy part with an apron in front and the side toward the tailstock to act as slide guards. Used sliding dovetails for mounting drawer sides to face. Just happened that this piece of ply was a perfect fit for the bottom . Just had to cut it to length. Cut slots in sides for the back to fit and then glue it up. Had some Watco danish oil cherry from an estate to give the ply some color (not in pic) . Watco danish oil natural for the walnut front. Applied two blocks to underside on left and back to make a tighter fit to head stock. Waxed drawer sides and bottom. That little rim around the top makes a good retainer of round objects.
  3. I'm reading a Fine Woodworking book on "Boxes, Carcases, and Drawers." It's just a collection of articles from the early days of FWW. One of them is by Tage Frid, one of the major authors of the day. He writes, "Furniture construction is broken into two main categories: frame and carcase. In frame construction, relatively narrow boards are joined -- usually with a mortise and tenon joint -- as in a chair or table base, or a frame and panel door. In carcase construction boards are joined end to end using dovetails, tongue and groove joints and the like, as in a drawer or hutch." Seems simple enough, huh?
  4. I thought I would try making TS cut dovetails. I used a special grind (10-deg) TS blade, an Incra HD 1000 miter gauge, and a flush trim router bit. I made a sled which attached to my miter gauge. Using a marking gauge, I laid out the tail height on a sacrificial board a smidge higher than the material thickness, tilt my TS blade 10-deg, and raised the blade to the desired height. I ganged my L/R drawer side boards and cut the tails simultaneous. Because the tails were symmetrical on the front bd and the rear top bd, the tail cutting went fast. I clamped a block to the sled to allow me to make repeat cuts by flipping and rotating the boards between cuts. After the tails were cut, I laid out the pins, the same way you would if the dovetails were cut by hand except, I used a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil instead of a marking knife. I did not need a knife kerf and the pencil line is easier to see. Sorry no pic. Now, I changed out my blade to a flat bottom blade and set the height the same height as the special grind blade. Using the Inca miter gauge rotated to 10-degree, I started to cut the pins. After the pins are cut to the initial setting, rotate the miter gauge to minus 10-degree and cut the other side. Do not change your set-up. When cutting the pins always error on not cutting enough material. I used a coping saw to rough cut the pins and then cleaned-up the bottoms using a ¾” dia. flush trim router bit. My initial fit-up revealed that I had 3 pins which needed more material removed. Because I was using a miter gauge, I could re-cut either side of the pin. I use a pencil scribble to mark where the pin material had to be removed. You may see a #1 and #2 marked on either side of the pins. These markings helped me use the correct miter gauge setting. Because I used symmetrical set-up/cutting to make the tails, I used symmetrical set-up/cutting to cut the pins wherever possible. Because of this technique it appears in the pics that I was off my line when cutting the pins, but the fit-up reveals something different. In some locations the pins did not need to be marked. As I gain experience using this technique, I will learn where to mark and not mark. The pics of the tails and pins are from my 2nd effort and before glue-up. Sorry, I did not get many set-up pictures. The holes that are in some of the pieces are for Blum Tandem undermount draw slide attachment. For me, I’m sure this technique is faster than cutting them by hand. I am pleased with the results. Danl
  5. Hi, John if you think this needs to be relocated, please do so. The wife of my best friend, sent me (well actually me Missus) a picture of a spice rack that rolls into the space between the fridge and wall. Was wondering if I could make one for her. I told her I thought it would be too top heavy, and would get very dusty there. Then I was wondering (and I’m gonna TRY to describe my idea), If I built a box, say 3 feet by 3 feet by 6 inches, and the 6 inches was to fit in the space between the fridge and wall, could I use a pair of drawer slides for it to slide out from the fridge and then back in? The slides would be mounted on the wall side of the box, top and bottom. I was wondering if it might sway too much, when fully pulled out. I was gonna put a back on the box, and doors on the front to keep the dust out. Pull it out from the space, open the doors, grab your spices, close everything up and slide it back in. Any thoughts on better hardware, or design, I’m more than happy to consider/use
  6. My daughter asked if I would build a small storage cabinet for some of her quilting fabrics. What would be the preferred wood choice for the drawers without breaking the budget. Planning on 1/4" birch ply for the bottoms. The cabinet itself will be red oak. Seems the price of wood has gone thru the ceiling over the winter months.
  7. Well I decided to do a Newman but not as full. My carving and burning station needed something so cabinet and drawers were the thing. The stock for the cabinet was so rough looking on edges decided to edge band with cherry. Then used #3 plane to reduce it. Well then I have to sand that off, nice and smooth. Ok nothing of the assembly but this is what I have so far. Now a little on doors. This panel was not wide enough so I added a strip of Mahogany using a tounge and groove to secure it in place. Again no assembly pics . Totally assembled and then placed. No way to secure the back with the bottom panel in place so used a bracket to secure it . Well my choice for drawer front had some bad spots on back edges right were joints and bottom go so had to fill that. That was the progress for the last 3 days. Doors and drawer assembly scheduled for today and pushing forward.
  8. I am making a large drawer to store rifles under a bed. The drawer will about 50" wide and 22"-24" deep. Can someone give me some options on where to find some full extension bottom mount slides that will work. Also, I will be installing at least 3 drawer slides.
  9. Still have a few of Ash, to use up. Thought I could do something with....I had two other 3/4" x 6" x 54" flat sawn Ash boards, and brought them to the shop. Very wavy edges, set up the rip fence a few times...to remove the worst of the waves, cut out a few of the worst knots....while doing all this saw work...had a cut off fly back at me... I think the T-shirt took most of the hit.....yep, that will leave a mark.. Got 3 blanks ready for a glue up....just under 22" long, to make a panel 14" wide.. Glue clamps and cauls... Wonder which face will be the "show" face? There is still 3 boards upstairs, can be glued up into leg blanks....thinking this one will be a drawer front... And maybe some aprons? Right now, letting the glue cure, and me heal up.... Stay tuned
  10. Like many I have a router on the one wing of the TS. And yes it gets in the way sometimes but for larger work it works well. Having been given a Bosch 1604 I saw opportunity in the form of a mini router table. Scanning the shop I found a nice place to stow it away, in the form of a drawer. Lost 3 small drawers but they were only 9 inches wide smaller stuff I can displace, albeit remembering where I did so may be an issue. To make the router lift I am using a small Lab Scissor lift. About 4 inch square with more than enough lift for this task. Put in drawer slides to guide the router assembly smoothly up and down. Had to run a 1/4 threaded rod through the front to lock the sled in place after setting the height with the lower adjustment wheel. So far the drawer is made, sits level and has 4 sets of 150lb drawer slides to support it. The sled is made, all the kinks worked out and it now awaits a wheel to attach to the lift and a switch, box and some wiring. While I know 4 inch DC ports and systems are all the rage my shop has 2 1/2 and it works, not going to go through a major refrb at this time. So the port will be for a DC hose but inverted as the side of the drawer has 1/2 clearance so nothing can stick out. Only issue I have not got a working design for is the mechanical locks to keep the drawer from sliding back in while in use. Have two ideas about it that some mock ups will be in order to see how they work. It's coming, but at my typical pace, kinda slow.
  11. I found an old drawer pull made of glass, about an inch in dia. I turned some of the red/pink ply and there it is.
  12. My next job up is building a cabinet/bookcase for a customer. She wants it made to match an existing piece so I’m searching for a pair of drawer pulls. I’ve eaten up an hour online looking to no avail so I’ll throw it to you. Do y’all have a go to hardware shop? Here’ the existing hardware.
  13. I'll be building a few cabinets and drawers shortly for the shop. I prefer to use hardwood (either poplar or maple) for drawers normally, but I think to save time and get things done a little more quickly I'll use 1/2" plywood (maybe BB, maybe not...haven't decided). But here's my question: when I use hardwood my joints are either DT (for household furniture) or drawer lock joints (for cabinets). But what do you use for plywood? I can't imagine either of my other ones working all the well; and for the record I have tried to cut DT joints in BB and wasn't all that enamored with the results. Besides, I dn't want to spend the time...I want something fast. What about just using wood screws to hold the sides to the drawers front. These will be drawers boxes that have a false front.
  14. Hi Y'all, I kept making stupid math errors when cutting out the parts for raised panel doors and drawer fronts, and also drawer boxes. I found other calculators online, but none of them did all the things I wanted, so I built my own. The idea is to input the fixed parameters like rail/stile width and interlock only once. Then, you have places to input several different door and drawer sizes on one sheet. Print it out and carry it to the shop where you'll have the dimensions for all your pieces-parts in one handy chart. Door and Drawer Calculator.xlsx
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