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Found 24 results

  1. Still have a few of Ash, to use up. Thought I could do something with....I had two other 3/4" x 6" x 54" flat sawn Ash boards, and brought them to the shop. Very wavy edges, set up the rip fence a few times...to remove the worst of the waves, cut out a few of the worst knots....while doing all this saw work...had a cut off fly back at me... I think the T-shirt took most of the hit.....yep, that will leave a mark.. Got 3 blanks ready for a glue up....just under 22" long, to make a panel 14" wide.. Glue clamps and cauls... Wonder which face will be the "show" face? There is still 3 boards upstairs, can be glued up into leg blanks....thinking this one will be a drawer front... And maybe some aprons? Right now, letting the glue cure, and me heal up.... Stay tuned
  2. steven newman

    PIP, drawer details

    From the album: Pine Chester Drawers

    before the stain. details in the corner, and the drawer dovetails
  3. Like many I have a router on the one wing of the TS. And yes it gets in the way sometimes but for larger work it works well. Having been given a Bosch 1604 I saw opportunity in the form of a mini router table. Scanning the shop I found a nice place to stow it away, in the form of a drawer. Lost 3 small drawers but they were only 9 inches wide smaller stuff I can displace, albeit remembering where I did so may be an issue. To make the router lift I am using a small Lab Scissor lift. About 4 inch square with more than enough lift for this task. Put in drawer slides to guide the router assembly smoothly up and down. Had to run a 1/4 threaded rod through the front to lock the sled in place after setting the height with the lower adjustment wheel. So far the drawer is made, sits level and has 4 sets of 150lb drawer slides to support it. The sled is made, all the kinks worked out and it now awaits a wheel to attach to the lift and a switch, box and some wiring. While I know 4 inch DC ports and systems are all the rage my shop has 2 1/2 and it works, not going to go through a major refrb at this time. So the port will be for a DC hose but inverted as the side of the drawer has 1/2 clearance so nothing can stick out. Only issue I have not got a working design for is the mechanical locks to keep the drawer from sliding back in while in use. Have two ideas about it that some mock ups will be in order to see how they work. It's coming, but at my typical pace, kinda slow.
  4. I'm watching a video where the presenter keeps talking about the "draws" in the desk. I always figured this was a redneck malapropism. But this person is obviously not a redneck. Merriam Webster does not list "draw" as a valid definition for this. What word do you use to describe these?
  5. I found an old drawer pull made of glass, about an inch in dia. I turned some of the red/pink ply and there it is.
  6. My next job up is building a cabinet/bookcase for a customer. She wants it made to match an existing piece so I’m searching for a pair of drawer pulls. I’ve eaten up an hour online looking to no avail so I’ll throw it to you. Do y’all have a go to hardware shop? Here’ the existing hardware.
  7. GM, guys as an experiment I want to build a drawer when looked at from the front will look normal but be shaped liked this. I was wondering what joinery you might use??
  8. I'll be building a few cabinets and drawers shortly for the shop. I prefer to use hardwood (either poplar or maple) for drawers normally, but I think to save time and get things done a little more quickly I'll use 1/2" plywood (maybe BB, maybe not...haven't decided). But here's my question: when I use hardwood my joints are either DT (for household furniture) or drawer lock joints (for cabinets). But what do you use for plywood? I can't imagine either of my other ones working all the well; and for the record I have tried to cut DT joints in BB and wasn't all that enamored with the results. Besides, I dn't want to spend the time...I want something fast. What about just using wood screws to hold the sides to the drawers front. These will be drawers boxes that have a false front.
  9. Pretty cool and quick way to make a simple drawer https://www.wwgoa.com/video/posthaste-projects-instant-drawer-008593/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=A5439&vsoid=A5439
  10. From the album: Pine Bedside Table

    Showing the opened drawer ( that WORKS!) and the hand cut half-blind dovetails
  11. Hi Y'all, I kept making stupid math errors when cutting out the parts for raised panel doors and drawer fronts, and also drawer boxes. I found other calculators online, but none of them did all the things I wanted, so I built my own. The idea is to input the fixed parameters like rail/stile width and interlock only once. Then, you have places to input several different door and drawer sizes on one sheet. Print it out and carry it to the shop where you'll have the dimensions for all your pieces-parts in one handy chart. Door and Drawer Calculator.xlsx
  12. I needed pulls for a set of drawers and had previously done this on router. Decided to try a shell like look. This went thru a learning progression with the beginning to try 2 pieces of hardwood glued to a faceplate. For this one I used hot glue. The middle piece is glued on with TB11. Finger pull hole on back is done at the router table. This is the finished product for this method. I discovered later that there is an easier way to do this when I built mt bench. Same glue block using brown paper to glue blank on which you will note is the full size instead of halves. The turning is done on the front to establish a pattern you want . Then remove from the faceplate and reverse to hollow the back (this could be done first with paper glue up to FP then reverse and paper glue to turn front) for the finger pull. To mount these I drilled undersize holes and used the same screws used for drawer pulls.......yes you can thread wood to hold screws. once the back is turned remove from faceplate and cut out the center on bandsaw. Note I removed a center section thus the mark left by the live center is removed, making this an easier job. I used 3 inch center to match regular handles. The closed top allows the pull to be stronger and since it is rounded so less sawdust sits on top of the handle.
  13. From the album: 18th Century Connecticut Blanket Chest

    I don't remember if the raised panel was part of the American Woodworker plan or not, but I raised the drawer bottom panel by hand with a Stanley No.4 smoothing plane. It turned out really nice and I was very happy with the results.
  14. steven newman

    drawer view

    From the album: Pine Kitchen Island

    A look at what this was like BEFORE the coat of white paint.
  15. steven newman

    Drawer End

    From the album: Pine Kitchen Island

    A look at the non-cabinet end. also has a drawer. Legs used to be 2x4s, until I ripped them down. "Silver" knob matches the rest of the kitchen's knobs
  16. Well, a drawer wanted to put up a fight, got me Irish up, it did now. But, suren i showed that bugger who the boss was. Ok, enough of the Mad Irishman stuff. Top is attached to the table base. Got the drawer front sized to it's opening, with a red hair of room all the way around. needed a couple sides to make it a drawer. marked out for the two in a single board I was just going to saw them out like that, but the bench was a might shaky. Laid the board flat, and grabbed a cordless saw.. Yep, one of them new-fangled saws without a cord. So, after crosscutting two sides out, checked the saw cut with a square Not too hateful. Clamped the two sides together in the vise, so that their sides were aligned flush. End grain was a bit ragged, so a plane was taken to it Until the ends were smooth and even until they were nice and smooth. Rotate to do the other ends, without the parts shifting around. They did anyway, but a hammer put them in their place. Ok, sides are LONg enough, but too wide. Marked a line to cut to, grabbed a pre-set square, and a utility knife, scored the line deep as can be. Put the square aside, go back and lean the knife over a bit towards the waste side, and score again See that little ribbon? The cuts made a Knife wall. Again with the board flat on the bench, another of them cordless saws I don't have a"true" rip saw, but we make do around these here parts. After each was sawn, I clamped it in the vise, and cleaned the saw marks with a plane. Test fit, plane a bit more. Then repeat with the other side board. Should've stopped right there...but... The "Fight Card" for tonight: The Bandit vs Porter Cable 4210. Dug up the 1/2" shanked, 1/2' dovetail bit. Both carbide flutes were wrecked. Ok, dug out the 1/4" shanked one. Then tried to attach the guide collar to the base of my Craftsman router....Round one almost went the the other side. Had to remove the base of the router and still fought the guide into place. Not a good start. Dug the jig out It was laying under a bench ( hiding??) behind the table... You can barely see under the table? Dragged it out, cleaned it off ( Ahhhh-chew!), cleared a spot on my bench. Mounting holes in the jig were bigger than the heads of the screws I use....round two. Two blocks of wood with a screw through them, through a mounting hole, and into the bench. Test drive? Well, took awhile to get the bit low enough to even start to use it. Collet was almost rubbing the collar. Collar had issues following the guide slots. Seems a layer of oxidation had narrowed the slots. Shoved it through anyway.....test fit? Ok, a bit of hammer work to adjust things a bit. Things were moving during the cut. On this jig, you need to add scrap pieces to the non-used side, Jig will be at an angle, otherwise. About like this. Where the two boards meet, there is a guide plate to off-set the two. You have to look down inside all that guide rail stuff and make sure each board is against that plate. And make sure things are square in the jig, and tightened down HARD. Inside of the front goes up, inside of the side goes out. Little line on the fingers shows where the two should meet, no gaps. Hmmm, more taps First side and front corner ... not perfect, but fixable. More smacking with the hammer, another adjustment. Other corner came out better, but the two sides now offset a bit. Clamp the drawer assembly onto the bench, and level the playing field a bit... Shavings all around! This round is mine! As for that second corner I think I can live with that. Still need to do the other edges, and mill a dado for the drawer back. And add some grooves to house the drawer bottom. For some reason, I an all tuckered out, Stay tuned, it has got to get better....someday....
  17. steven newman

    drawer details

    From the album: Shaker End Table

    The bottom was 1/2" plywood. Used a plane to make a rebate arounf three sides, to fit into the 1/4" grooves in the front and sides. Back sits in a rebate, and is glued and screwed in place.
  18. steven newman

    drawer opened

    From the album: Shaker End Table

    Showing that the drawer does indeed work. And, without any tipping down when opened out.
  19. steven newman

    Shaker Table

    From the album: Shaker End Table

    Just a collection of white wood boards from Lowes. legs were ripped from a 2x4, then turned on the lathe. Drawer has halfblind dovetails in the front.
  20. PIP Alert !!! And the drawer even works!!! First coat of finish is on and been wiped down. Letting it sit overnight and try again. Now, would you all like to read about what all happened down there? Currently try to do a write up....in my head...
  21. markc1107

    Night Table with drawer

    From the album: Pine Is Fine Custom Cabinets and Furniture

    This handcrafted night table is made from red oak. The legs are constructed from 4 pieces of 1x3, planed down to 3x3. The drawer is constructed by planning 1" boards down to 1/2 inch and I used half blind dovetails to join the corners. The face is made from 3/4 and routed for detail.
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