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  1. Just 2 weeks left is our fundraising drive. Please consider donating and taking a chance on wining one of our sponsors' awesome prizes! Our Patriot Turners- @Steve Krumanaker continues to supply his unique turnings for a local "Bee" business- Steve's post has more images of some of the custom things he makes! @RustyFN scored some Bradford pear and showed us his blank preparation. Looks like some awesome bowls in his future Check out Rust's post- @Gerald has been busy replenishing his craft show stock- Check out his post to see what these are! @PostalTom updated us on the chess set he made. Tom included a closeup of the turned chess pieces, in his post Tom also posted some kitchen utensil items in our "What's On Your Workbench" forum- Our "What's On Your Lathe" continues to showcase our turners' projects! @nevinc, @forty_caliber and @Gerald all shared images of what's happening What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links- For The Newbies- A variety of topics from around the web- From Tim Yoder, a couple of short video tips- From Mike Waldt, help for using my old nemesis- the Skew! This is a live demo so it is really long- Have you ever tried to cut a round blank on the bandsaw? Not a bowl blank, but rather an end off of a cylinder shape. If not secured properly, the blade can grab the piece and even break the blade. Mike Peace cautions about this and shares a video on making it safer. Expand Your Horizons- Craft Supplies USA created a video demonstrating the use of the Easy Core One Way Coring System. This is a rather long video but does demonstrate using the system. In the description, the presentation is broken down so the viewer can select sections to view. We've noticed several discussions about finishing, on other Patriot forums, and the subject of shellac pops up frequently. This link, from Kent Weakley, is to an article on making and using shellac as a bowl finish. https://turnawoodbowl.com/make-shellac-wood-bowl-finish/ I think everyone here knows my love of carbide turning tools. @smitty10101 posted about using Easy Wood Tools ( @Jordan Martindale ) to turn a bowl. The video is from Craft Supplies USA New Turning Items- Ron Brown has been creating and posting videos, on his YouTube channel, discussing his hollowing stabilizer. You can check them out at- https://www.youtube.com/@Ronbrownsbest/videos With SWAT happening this weekend, there will probably be some new products shown. Be sure to check out the Vendor showcase listed above for live feeds of some of the products. Everything Else- From Ron Brown's Newsletter, something I think we all have struggled with from time to time- What Is It Worth? I’ve had lots of questions about pricing one or two special pieces. For the vast majority of woodturners, it is a hobby, they never intend to sell anything they make. Some folks are interested in turning as a side gig but have no idea how to price their work. As someone who has experience in just about every conceivable selling venue, I would like to pass along what I have learned. Any object is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. When I’m considering how to price anything I’ve made or plan on making, there is a formula I use: Cost of material + Time @ desired labor rate = Hard Cost Hard Cost X 4 = Suggested Retail Selling Price Hard Cost X 2 = Wholesale Selling Price Average Market Price For Similar Items; Am I Close? This is only a starting point. Determine the “Market Price” for similar items depending on the selling venue, are you in the ballpark? The Market Price in an Arts & Crafts Gallery is very different from the Market Price at a street craft fair and those prices are different on Etsy, eBay, your own website, or Amazon. Don’t forget about the associated cost for each venue. The last measure is a selling price that I feel good about. In other words, it is a Win-Win; the customer is happy at that price and I was happy to make it for them. An absolute fact of life is that everybody loves a bargain. (See the scripture below). Your “Retail Price” should be some amount above the price you hope to sell it for. Every retail store on the planet understands this and so should you. If you are selling one-on-one, you can comfortably offer a deal if they take it now and still earn what you needed in the first place. If you are selling online, this is the perfect scenario for a sale with either free shipping or a percentage discount. You must also consider why you want to sell at least some of your work. Perhaps you want to fund additional tool purchases. In that case, forget the time you put in and consider the amount of profit dollars such a sale will contribute to your “new widget” fund. If the income is important as a supplement to other household income, it needs to be worth your time. If you are thinking of this as a main income stream, you need to maximize the return on your capital and your time and this will require counsel and careful consideration. Try to pick items that are fast, easy, and cheap to make that you can sell tons of i.e. pens, bottle stoppers, pepper mills, spinning tops, utility bowls, cutting boards, kitchen utensils, etc. The bottom line is complicated depending on your specific situation. Only you can make that determination. I recommend setting your initial asking price higher than you think you should. Often someone else thinks your widget is worth more than you do. You can always lower the asking price, but it is difficult to raise it. As I said before, something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. Here is a true quick story. I used to sell fancy laser-cut Christmas ornament kits and made finished samples for display at The Woodworking Shows. I got many inquiries from folks wanting to buy the finished ornaments that I really didn’t want to sell. I finally put a price of $150 on each one figuring that would stop all of the questions because nobody would pay that much for a Christmas Ornament. The first year we sold 12! Don’t sell yourself short Safe turning
  2. What a neat shelf for our cookbooks, I love the bottom pull out drawers.
  3. Last day of August! Where did the summer go?!?!? Our Patriot Turners- Our turners have been busy this week! @Gerald posted about a novel idea for embellishing a turning. He describes the materials he used and how he obtained the neat colorization in his post- @Gunny posted this in the "What's on tour weekend agenda"- Gunny has these down to an art! @forty_caliber finished up a bowl he started a while back. The grain and color in this one is incredible! He explains the name in his post- @RustyFN posted his beautiful Calabash bowl. He received lots of positive comments and @Gerald was kind enough to post a couple of his bowls for comparison. What’s Coming Up- Hold onto your hats- lots coming up in the near future! A bunch from the AAW. Click on the images for links and information. For The Newbies- Jim Rodgers continues his instruction on how/why catches happen. In this one, Jim discusses the scraper- Expand Your Horizons- Mike Waldt turns and embellishes an ash hollow form- ...and a Yew lidded box Seems we have been really concentrating on making scoops. Another idea but quite different than the previous designs- New Turning Items- SWAT was this past weekend. Cindy Drozda took the opportunity to video many of the vendors and their products. She was live on several occasions. She has posted some of the material on her YouTube Channel. The link to her channel- https://www.youtube.com/user/cindydrozda Craft Supplies USA is having a closeout on a bunch of their products. Some good prices! https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/Sales/20/Closeout?utm_source=csusa&utm_medium=email&utm_content=closeout&utm_campaign=22-08-closeout Woodturners Wonders Weekly sale: https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/weekly-sale A couple of weeks ago we mentioned the 3M Xtract sand paper. Taylor Toolworks is currently having a sale on the product- https://taytools.com/collections/3m-xtract?afmc=17p&utm_campaign=17p&utm_source=leaddyno&utm_medium=affiliate Everything Else- Rick Morris must be on vacation this week- He didn't post his usual list of turning videos. Tim Yoder is always a lot of fun to watch- I've been kicking this idea around for a while. Usually, when I make a lidded container, I will use contrasting species for the lid and body. Some things like pepper mills are made from a single piece of the same species. Cutting the blank in half and then creating a tenon can cause a noticeable grain mismatch where the cut/tenon is created. I was watching one of Cindy Drozda's live tool talks and she described a technique that minimizes the material loss and grain mismatch. After cutting the blank, it is glued back together with a sacrificial piece between the halves. This sacrificial piece becomes the tenon. My first attempt at this was a miserable failure. The cuts were not clean enough to create a good glue joint. I'm thinking I need a way to ensure the pieces will look seamless when mated together. My next try was a little better. The first thing was to create a sharp cut with no tear out. I forgot to take a picture in my haste but I used a skew chisel to start the separation cut. Then used my freshly sharpened, shop made, thin parting tool. Also cranked the lathe speed way up to part off the pieces- I did not create a tenon. Instead, I decided to turn tight fitting plug that would be used as the lid tenon. Mortice in one end- Fitting the plug Glue the plug into one of the mortices- the lid on this one. Trim the plug so the two halves fit together- Carefully hollow out the insides making certain not to touch the plug mating surfaces. I did not spend a lot of time sanding the inside. My main goal was to see if the plug idea would work. Some sanding on the outside and testing the grain match- Had to play a little to fancy up the very plain shape- I think this will have a much great effect when used on highly figured wood. This was from a very old piece of air dried walnut. Quite brittle. Safe turning
  4. Okay, day before yesterday our over the range microwave went out.....we have lived here about 22 years and this is the third microwave for this house. When we bought this new double wide it came with all new appliances, GE was the brand. The first one lasted 2 years. Next we bought an LG microwave that was a returned model to the store for what ever reason???? It lasted 20 years until day before yesterday...Called around to see if anyone would install it for free if we bought a new, any brand. About 300.00 was not an exactly quote for they all said nothing ever fits the same holes as the last brand so this will probably cost for from all those exploritory holes drilling before they could come up with the holes in the exactly the right place... So being one who never liked strangers in my house beating on the walls trying to find wood on the other side of the sheetrock and then giving a poor excuse of their wasting so many drill bits I just told wife we would install the new microwave our selves. No one wants to ever admit being born in 1935 has something to do with not being able to lift half of 50 lbs. So now is the time to use my little brain and come up with some mechanical aid. But honey a counter top model is half as much as the ones people hang almost up to the ceiling. So in comes the first part of our helpers, a roll around router table on wheels. Next I have to get it the same height as the cabinets so lot of shims and large pieces of BB and a few clamps for underneath all that the dials and knob ends of the cook top has to be protected. Next in comes a roll around transmission jack with an extra piece of BB to go on the top of the jack to sit the microwave on.. and if anyone has ever uninstalled and installed a microwave then you know the back bottom of the microwave has to go in first and sit in the little holder one has to attach in the right area of the wall. Then you raise up the front of the microwave to the three holes one already marked and drilled the holes in the top of the cabinet for the long screws to go through... This is what the scene looked like after we took out the old wave and the new one is sitting there ready to set upon the lift and get a joy ride up in to the hole . This last picture shows the rea after I took the jack away and was starting to clear away the residue after the new microwave was in and working. Now All I got to do is take away the helpers and reattach the rope lights under the coulter. It might have went quicker if we had have bought another LG but no one in Breckenridge sells them and going to Abilene and finding one was no guarantee the holes would be in the same exact location being 20 years apart in the time of manuf. This microwave we got had 3 ways one could configure where they wanted the exhaust to exit out the microwave , from the top or from the side or recirculate within itself.. But, the old one come out the top in the exact middle but this new model did come out the top but only on the side of the middle and was a bugger to make the pipe stretch and curve over to the side... But anyway, my invention of the transmission jack sitting on the portable router table made it extra nice to work on new holes especially after I added a Gandy milk carton to sit on the top of the jack so this old model body didn't have to exert any muscle especially with wife taking care of the other half of the things we had to lift made it a nice easy job. And with the added safe of using clamps to make sure the plywood did not damage the knobs gave me a job I started out dreading. By the way this is a Fridigaire this time. Just another example of a wood worker having the ability of thinking with his little brain!
  5. When opening canned goods that are a thick consistency they don't pour from the can. I have always stabbed the bottom with an old can opener to break the suction and the blob would come out without having to dig it out with a spoon. I decided to make myself something that might be easier to use and this is what I came up with. The HandyDandy can piercer. I put the ball on the end to help keep my hand from slipping off and smashing into the can. The hardware is made with stainless socket head cap screws. I made the points from 5/32 welding rod. I drilled the screws with a #24 drill bit and the points were a press fit into the screws. I drilled and tapped the wood to accept the screws. And as usual I didn't stop at one and figured I could give some away. I also made a few more awls with some Purple Heart and some mystery wood that was pool table legs. Might be a Mahogany species.
  6. Gerald


    @Woodbutcherbynight This will answer most of your questions on this subject and maybe we coul all try this . It is not really that hard once you start just get snug fits and approach tenon size carefully. I have had the blank to turn this peppermill for almost a year and the test was done in walnut, the finial piece is a blank of colorply or some other brand of the same . It is red and blue but the Tru Oil made the blue look black. Both pieces came out fine and I just happen to have a good bit of walnut in the shop, but I would suggest a test piece before you commit to expensive wood . My ply blank was $28 and it is probably even higher if you have to order and pay freight as I got it at a symposium. Now Gunny asked how. Craft Supply has a video I got most of the specifics from the video and sheet instructions.INSTRUCTIONS AND VIDEO. I had to call a buddy as the video wants you to use a 1 1/16 bit but you can use a 1 inch for the thru hole. To start turn the blank down round and cut tenon on both ends. Mark for the top usually 2-3 inches. You will cut a tenon on the upper part of the base and a spigot 1/2 long on the top( do this after parting the bottom off because you need to size it for a snugg fit into the bottom). Mount the bottom in chuck and drill the bottom with forstner 1 5/8 for a depth of 1/2 inch. Then drill the thru hole of wither the 1 1/16 or 1 inch about half way thru. Reverse the blank in chuck and drill from the other end. Now mount the top in chuck and drill a thru hole 9/32 . Now turn the spigot 1/2 to 3/4 inch in length to fit the bottom snuggly. The spigot will need a hole to fit the slightly over 3/4 drive plate. I used a 3/4 forstner and then carved just a little bit to get the fit. Now comes the "fun" part. You will need to turn a drive center to fit the bottom of the base. So it will need a tenon to fit the center and then a wider tenon to fit the 1 5/8 recess. Oh this piece will need a tenon to fit chuck. Mount the base on the drive center and insert the spigot on the top into the top of the base. Then bring up the tailstock with cone center. Turn the body and top to your desired shape. Might help if you draw that out before starting to do this step. Noe put it together and check for fit . You may need to shorten the rod. NOTE if you do the 1 inch thru hole the bottom grinder will not fit so you will need to carve away a little to fit the bracket (that u shaped piece) so the mechanism will fit. Have fun . It would be fun to have everyone try to make one and then we could have a contest for best piece @John Morris
  7. Since my brother and his wife retired, they are spending more time experimenting with various cuisines. I though I'd get them a micro-plane/grater for the kitchen. Rather than just buy the completed item, I ordered the planer/grater and made the handle. In the past, I sent them various kitchen/serving utensils so this handle would reflect the previous designs. The biggest disappointment, with this particular grater, was that the handle was designed to be permanently attached to the grater using epoxy. In my opinion, handles should be detachable so that the metal portions can be adequately cleaned without damaging the handle. Fortunately, the threads on the grater were standard 3/8 x 16 so creating a better solution was pretty easy. I started with a piece of maple, squared into a turning blank. Then drilled the end of the blank to accept a 3/8 x 16 brass threaded insert- this will allow the grater to removed and placed into the dish washer. The insert was installed on the drill press using a shop made bottle stopper mandrel. The insert can be seen in this photo- The handle blank was then prepared to receive contrasting walnut inserts. The insert slots were cut on the table saw using a simple angle jig to hold the blank in the proper orientation. The blank is cut four times, using a single pass thru the blade. The depth of the cut is arbitrary but between 1/4 and 1/3 the thickness of the blank produces a nice pattern. The inserts are glued into the saw kerfs. the inserts are 1/8" thick and just long enough to extend past the end of the kerfs at either end. Once the glue dries, the inserts are trimmed to be flush with the blank sides. I trimmed these on the band saw. They don't have to be perfect. Trimming just makes the turning process a little easier. Now it's just a matter of turning the handle. I used the bottle stopper mandrel and a Jacobs chuck to mount the blank in the head stock. The inserts create a "twist" pattern as the blank is rounded Shaped the blank Finished with a bunch of layers of wipe on poly And the grater screwed into the handle Now I need to make something for my Mom.
  8. Part 2: This build was not going to be particularly difficult. My biggest concern was the maple top. I’ve built smaller edge grain tops before so the process was not unfamiliar; however, the staggered shorter length field pieces had me scratching my head about clamping and gluing. Also, I needed to consider the size of the top versus the capabilities of my shop equipment. My Dewalt 735 planer maxes out at around 13” wide and my little shop made drum sander can only handle very small work. John Moody suggested making the top in several sections and then assembling those sections into the final width. He also suggested using biscuits to aid in aligning the pieces during glue up. Sounded good to me so that’s what I did. I started with 8/4 rough, hard maple. Milled it down into the strips I’d need to build the top. I was really worried about the amount of waste there might. Sometimes thick pieces have a lot of internal stress and can end up looking like a piper cub propeller after they are cut. I got really lucky and almost all of the pieces were nice and straight. I spent several hours sorting, moving and labeling the pieces so there would be less of a chance of a mistake during glue up (not that completely eliminated snafus). I also marked all of the biscuit locations. As John suggested, the biscuits really helped align and keep the strips in place while clamping each section. I also used biscuits on the end joints where the shorter field pieces were joined. Maybe overkill on the clamps but I didn’t want to take any chances. For the field pieces that were made up from shorter lengths, I clamped the pieces end to end. Instead of trying to completely assemble each section at once, I opted to glue on and clamp one strip at a time until the section was finished. It took longer but I had more time to make sure everything was lining up. Working by yourself forces you to think the entire assembly process through thoroughly and sometimes even do a “practice run”. Eventually, I ended up here- All the labels and notes are clearly visible and I transferred some of the markings to the edges/back for reference during the final glue up. It seems like every time I clamp up an assembly like, I end up with a little irregularity on the edges. A quick pass through the jointer trued the edges and then it was on to the planer. 2 Next, the sections were glued together and sized for length. I used a straight edge and skill saw to trim the top to length. I guess I could have used the belt sander to smooth out the sections but I’ve really become a fan of the card scraper. One of our newer member- Todd Clippinger- has a really nice and quick procedure for sharpening card scrapers so you spend more time finishing then trying to produce that elusive “hook”. Originally, the edges of the top were to be square. The minister thought a chamfered edge would look nicer. A simple design change. Router and chamfer bit took care of it. A little more sanding (through 320 grit) and the top is done (except for the oil/wax). It weighed in at around 90 pounds.
  9. Part 4: With the legs finished, it was time to create the aprons, shelf supports, and stretchers. These were all made from 1” thick poplar. The apron was 5” wide and the remaining pieces were 3” wide. The tenons were all done on the table saw. First establishing the shoulders- I have an old Delta tenoning jig that makes quick work of making the tenon cheek cuts. However, the length of the long aprons and shelf supports exceeded the distance between my table saw and the ceiling. Looks like a job for the dado blade. I used the same setup here, as I did for the shoulder cuts, the rip fence with a “depth stop” and the miter gauge. My table saw is a right tilt model (old Bridgewood) but due to space limitations I had to move the rip fence to the “other side” of the blade to be able to make these cuts. After a couple of adjustments, the tenon thickness was what I was looking for. Now just run all of the pieces for the tenon thickness A blade height adjustment to establish the tenon width. That’ll do Finally, run the pieces, again, to finish the tenons.
  10. And Finally: The last bit of machining was to create the two lower shelves. The minister wanted to keep the “maple” look for the shelves but hard maple is a little expensive so we went with soft maple. Planed everything to ¾” and used biscuits to help with alignment during glue up. I made these shelves full width during the glue-ups A card scraper brought everything smooth. I sized the shelves using the same procedures as the top. Cut to length and width with the skill saw and a guide; then used the router, flush trim bit and a guide to finish off the saw marks. The guide is held in place with double sided tape and screws. The screw holes are located in the area that will be removed where the shelf wraps around the legs. I also ran the chamfer detail around the perimeter of both shelves. Marked and cut the corners Finished shelves One more dry fit to make certain everything fits Set the top in place to locate and thread the lag bolt holes. While I had the top in position, I did its’ final sanding and oiling. The top is sanded through 320 grit. I used two applications of mineral oil; allowing each to soak in about a day. Then, I used one application of hot “Bumble Bee Wax”- a blend of mineral oil and bee’s wax. Once that cooled, I buffed it out with an old towel. A final dis-assembly; the maple shelves sanded through 320 grit; the poplar pieces sanded through 180 grit. All of the hardware was pre-drilled and pre-threaded using bee’s wax to lubricate the holes. The minister set a time and date to pick up the table and transport it to the church. It has to make the journey from south central PA to Ithaca NY. The day before he arrived, Mimi and I carried everything- except the top- to the carport and I did the final assembly. Due to the dimensions, the shelves had to be set in place during the assembly/glue up. That really added to the weight! The minister arrived right on time and we loaded the base and top into his van. The church members are going to do the final assembly and finishing on site. It was a long process and I was relieved that he was satisfied with the work. Even though we communicated via email and pictures, it is difficult to know what something is really like. Several days later, I received this picture I think the church members did an outstanding job painting and finishing the table. It looks right at home there in the kitchen. If you made it this far, thanks for following along. Also, thanks to John Moody for the advice on the butcher block top.
  11. Version 1.0.0


    This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use.
  12. View File Workbench Magazine Jan-Feb 1967 Playhouse Kitchen This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 04/28/2019 Category Wooden Toys
  13. I recently bid a job to build in cabinets in a back kitchen of a house that was built in 1874. I bid the job way high because I really didn't want to do it. Unfortunately, the customer (who is a friend of mine) accepted the bid. The house has 10 ft. ceilings and the outside wall was out of plumb about 3/4" top to bottom. I custom built two 45" x 23 1/4" x 24 deep raised panel cabinets to go in a nook over the refrigerator, a 10" wide broom closet and built in the range. Here's the before pictures. Here's the after pictures.
  14. My wife worked hard sorting through the boxes of porcelain tiles, from HD, so that we only used the “pretty” tiles. I wanted to have a “mirror image” corner and we did not want to have vertical gap lines near each other between the 2nd row and the decorative tiles. She also wanted some of the tiles rotated 45 deg. We used approx. 132 6” x 6” tiles and I had to cut all but 16 of them. Used 1/16 spacers. Yea it is complete! My wife is happy, so I am happy. Danl It
  15. My wife has finally found tile for the kitchen back splash which she believes she can live with. She did not want subway tile nor glass mosaic. That accounts for 98% of what is on out there for sale. My wife was wanting to have a 1/16 grout gap between the tile. It is my understanding that matching caulk is used between the tile and the counter top and between the tile and the wooden refrigerator panel. What gap is commonly used in these locations when 1/16 gap is between the tiles? I appreciate your help. Thanks in advance. Danl
  16. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    Below the bar area was a dead space the customer wanted me to take advantage of, so I cut in a door and I also installed a nice shelf inside as well. The Aztec style cut out is prevalent throughout the kitchen.
  17. My kitchen is now operational. 7 weeks. My wife and I did all of the work except for electrical routing/installation, flooring installation, and granite counter top installation. If you are an immigrant from the WOOD forum you know this kitchen project has had a few birthdays. Cabinet construction is cherry wood with birch pre-finished ply. 3/4" matl for the sides, top, and bottom. 1/2" matl for the backs. Finish schedule is one coat BLO, one coat garnet shellac 1-1/2 lb cut, and three coats Sherwin-Williams Sher-wood Kem Aqua clear finish medium rubbed. Full extension soft close drawer slides. Punch list: Complete base board installation Install crown molding Danl
  18. From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook

    I decided the space above the sink could use a shelf and I decided to use plumbing instead of normal brackets. A typical bracket would take up too much length not allowing clearance for my tall bottles. I used 2 1/2" floor flanges, 2 10" nipples and 2 end caps. Just cut a board to size and made a permanent home for a few items.

    © © Cindy Trine

  19. Hi everyone, I want to do a full kitchen remodel next year and want to start saving up, but I'm wondering how much I should save before spending money by calling a contractor.
  20. DRAGON1

    kitchen third

    From the album: 1960 retro kitchen

    1960 retro kitchen, everything built in. Heat under sink cabinet. Dishwasher built into island. Sink has touch on/off. hand painted mexican tiles on backsplash. All built in customers driveway and garage.
  21. After the mezanine deck and great room the kitchen was attacked next... something to keep in mind the woman of the house is barely 5' tall... There was nothing special about these cherry cabinets... pretty much routine builds... all the shelves are on easy close glides... same for the drawers.. this corner cab was the only difficult piece... nothing plumb/level/square by a wide margin... inches in just a few feet... if you look hard enough you can see the issues... slight of hand for the aesthetics... this island isn't special either... another ripped out page of a home magazine (here, this is what I want only different – got that a lot)and scaled for comfort for the woman of the house (WOTH) and to fit well into the space available... the floor was ripped up and all the joists were sistered and intermediate doubled joists installed to support the granite CT on the island... built the stools to fit the WOTH.. for regular sized mortals they feel funny... but her husband is 5'8'' and thinks they are just fine.. that is all that matters... because the WOTH was vertically challenged the bases of the cabs had pull out steps/step stools... now she could reach the uppers and use the sink in comfort... cook easier too... closer look/see... the flooring is cork and the original floor was not flat in the least... 2x6's @ 16OC and the crowns were alternated at random w/ 5 ply ½'' CDX for the deck... 2 joists were longitudinally cracked... can we say springy here??? all were sistered, additional joists to bring the spacing up to 8''OC and shims had to happen... 7ply AC 5/8 T&G for the new deck.. Cab bases were built and installed separate of the boxes to comp for the floor... layup to the walls was fun... the random lay of the crowns worked out to be a major issue all through this project... back-splash is Swanstone... best fix for the irregular walls we could come up w/...
  22. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    This image was taken from the family room looking into the kitchen. The long slender cabinets were built to sandwich the copper stove hood. The stools were bought by the customer, they were not made by me.
  23. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    The center island was built with open shelving, my customer wanted open shelving in much of the kitchen. They placed baskets on top of the shelves which I thought was a great touch. The top is 1 /12" maple butcher block purchased at the local hardwood lumber dealer.
  24. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    The buffet has book matched solid pine doors, the gussets in the corners of the door frames are walnut, and resemble Aztec architecture.
  25. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    These upper cabinets were built as three separate units, the little cubby's below are for wine. I installed 1/4" wire mesh in the doors to keep it rustic and my customer wanted to display the contents of the cabinets. There is also lighting installed at the top inside of these cabinets. You'll see in the corner there is also a little appliance cubby I built as well.
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