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Found 53 results

  1. It just needs to be delivered. Scheduled for this weekend. My oldest son asked me to build him an additional base kitchen cabinet. After talking with him and his wife, they decided that it had it be portable. The final cabinet size is 24” deep x 36” wide x 36” tall. The cabinet box is made from UV white birch ply and the drawer front, door frames, end-panel frames and face frame are made from poplar wood. The door and end-panel center panels are made with MDF. The three drawers are made from ½” Baltic birch ply and have dovetail joinery. The pull-out soft close trash drawer mechanism is from Rev-A-drawer. The drawers were sprayed with 1-1/2# cut shellac, the countertop was sprayed with Sherwin Williams Sher-wood Hi-Bild pre-cat lacquer, and the outer surfaces were painted with Sherwin Williams Sher-wood Kem Aqua plus white. Thanks for looking. Danl
  2. Gerald


    @Woodbutcherbynight This will answer most of your questions on this subject and maybe we coul all try this . It is not really that hard once you start just get snug fits and approach tenon size carefully. I have had the blank to turn this peppermill for almost a year and the test was done in walnut, the finial piece is a blank of colorply or some other brand of the same . It is red and blue but the Tru Oil made the blue look black. Both pieces came out fine and I just happen to have a good bit of walnut in the shop, but I would suggest a test piece before you commit to expensive wood . My ply blank was $28 and it is probably even higher if you have to order and pay freight as I got it at a symposium. Now Gunny asked how. Craft Supply has a video I got most of the specifics from the video and sheet instructions.INSTRUCTIONS AND VIDEO. I had to call a buddy as the video wants you to use a 1 1/16 bit but you can use a 1 inch for the thru hole. To start turn the blank down round and cut tenon on both ends. Mark for the top usually 2-3 inches. You will cut a tenon on the upper part of the base and a spigot 1/2 long on the top( do this after parting the bottom off because you need to size it for a snugg fit into the bottom). Mount the bottom in chuck and drill the bottom with forstner 1 5/8 for a depth of 1/2 inch. Then drill the thru hole of wither the 1 1/16 or 1 inch about half way thru. Reverse the blank in chuck and drill from the other end. Now mount the top in chuck and drill a thru hole 9/32 . Now turn the spigot 1/2 to 3/4 inch in length to fit the bottom snuggly. The spigot will need a hole to fit the slightly over 3/4 drive plate. I used a 3/4 forstner and then carved just a little bit to get the fit. Now comes the "fun" part. You will need to turn a drive center to fit the bottom of the base. So it will need a tenon to fit the center and then a wider tenon to fit the 1 5/8 recess. Oh this piece will need a tenon to fit chuck. Mount the base on the drive center and insert the spigot on the top into the top of the base. Then bring up the tailstock with cone center. Turn the body and top to your desired shape. Might help if you draw that out before starting to do this step. Noe put it together and check for fit . You may need to shorten the rod. NOTE if you do the 1 inch thru hole the bottom grinder will not fit so you will need to carve away a little to fit the bracket (that u shaped piece) so the mechanism will fit. Have fun . It would be fun to have everyone try to make one and then we could have a contest for best piece @John Morris
  3. Since my brother and his wife retired, they are spending more time experimenting with various cuisines. I though I'd get them a micro-plane/grater for the kitchen. Rather than just buy the completed item, I ordered the planer/grater and made the handle. In the past, I sent them various kitchen/serving utensils so this handle would reflect the previous designs. The biggest disappointment, with this particular grater, was that the handle was designed to be permanently attached to the grater using epoxy. In my opinion, handles should be detachable so that the metal portions can be adequately cleaned without damaging the handle. Fortunately, the threads on the grater were standard 3/8 x 16 so creating a better solution was pretty easy. I started with a piece of maple, squared into a turning blank. Then drilled the end of the blank to accept a 3/8 x 16 brass threaded insert- this will allow the grater to removed and placed into the dish washer. The insert was installed on the drill press using a shop made bottle stopper mandrel. The insert can be seen in this photo- The handle blank was then prepared to receive contrasting walnut inserts. The insert slots were cut on the table saw using a simple angle jig to hold the blank in the proper orientation. The blank is cut four times, using a single pass thru the blade. The depth of the cut is arbitrary but between 1/4 and 1/3 the thickness of the blank produces a nice pattern. The inserts are glued into the saw kerfs. the inserts are 1/8" thick and just long enough to extend past the end of the kerfs at either end. Once the glue dries, the inserts are trimmed to be flush with the blank sides. I trimmed these on the band saw. They don't have to be perfect. Trimming just makes the turning process a little easier. Now it's just a matter of turning the handle. I used the bottle stopper mandrel and a Jacobs chuck to mount the blank in the head stock. The inserts create a "twist" pattern as the blank is rounded Shaped the blank Finished with a bunch of layers of wipe on poly And the grater screwed into the handle Now I need to make something for my Mom.
  4. Part 2: This build was not going to be particularly difficult. My biggest concern was the maple top. I’ve built smaller edge grain tops before so the process was not unfamiliar; however, the staggered shorter length field pieces had me scratching my head about clamping and gluing. Also, I needed to consider the size of the top versus the capabilities of my shop equipment. My Dewalt 735 planer maxes out at around 13” wide and my little shop made drum sander can only handle very small work. John Moody suggested making the top in several sections and then assembling those sections into the final width. He also suggested using biscuits to aid in aligning the pieces during glue up. Sounded good to me so that’s what I did. I started with 8/4 rough, hard maple. Milled it down into the strips I’d need to build the top. I was really worried about the amount of waste there might. Sometimes thick pieces have a lot of internal stress and can end up looking like a piper cub propeller after they are cut. I got really lucky and almost all of the pieces were nice and straight. I spent several hours sorting, moving and labeling the pieces so there would be less of a chance of a mistake during glue up (not that completely eliminated snafus). I also marked all of the biscuit locations. As John suggested, the biscuits really helped align and keep the strips in place while clamping each section. I also used biscuits on the end joints where the shorter field pieces were joined. Maybe overkill on the clamps but I didn’t want to take any chances. For the field pieces that were made up from shorter lengths, I clamped the pieces end to end. Instead of trying to completely assemble each section at once, I opted to glue on and clamp one strip at a time until the section was finished. It took longer but I had more time to make sure everything was lining up. Working by yourself forces you to think the entire assembly process through thoroughly and sometimes even do a “practice run”. Eventually, I ended up here- All the labels and notes are clearly visible and I transferred some of the markings to the edges/back for reference during the final glue up. It seems like every time I clamp up an assembly like, I end up with a little irregularity on the edges. A quick pass through the jointer trued the edges and then it was on to the planer. 2 Next, the sections were glued together and sized for length. I used a straight edge and skill saw to trim the top to length. I guess I could have used the belt sander to smooth out the sections but I’ve really become a fan of the card scraper. One of our newer member- Todd Clippinger- has a really nice and quick procedure for sharpening card scrapers so you spend more time finishing then trying to produce that elusive “hook”. Originally, the edges of the top were to be square. The minister thought a chamfered edge would look nicer. A simple design change. Router and chamfer bit took care of it. A little more sanding (through 320 grit) and the top is done (except for the oil/wax). It weighed in at around 90 pounds.
  5. Part 4: With the legs finished, it was time to create the aprons, shelf supports, and stretchers. These were all made from 1” thick poplar. The apron was 5” wide and the remaining pieces were 3” wide. The tenons were all done on the table saw. First establishing the shoulders- I have an old Delta tenoning jig that makes quick work of making the tenon cheek cuts. However, the length of the long aprons and shelf supports exceeded the distance between my table saw and the ceiling. Looks like a job for the dado blade. I used the same setup here, as I did for the shoulder cuts, the rip fence with a “depth stop” and the miter gauge. My table saw is a right tilt model (old Bridgewood) but due to space limitations I had to move the rip fence to the “other side” of the blade to be able to make these cuts. After a couple of adjustments, the tenon thickness was what I was looking for. Now just run all of the pieces for the tenon thickness A blade height adjustment to establish the tenon width. That’ll do Finally, run the pieces, again, to finish the tenons.
  6. And Finally: The last bit of machining was to create the two lower shelves. The minister wanted to keep the “maple” look for the shelves but hard maple is a little expensive so we went with soft maple. Planed everything to ¾” and used biscuits to help with alignment during glue up. I made these shelves full width during the glue-ups A card scraper brought everything smooth. I sized the shelves using the same procedures as the top. Cut to length and width with the skill saw and a guide; then used the router, flush trim bit and a guide to finish off the saw marks. The guide is held in place with double sided tape and screws. The screw holes are located in the area that will be removed where the shelf wraps around the legs. I also ran the chamfer detail around the perimeter of both shelves. Marked and cut the corners Finished shelves One more dry fit to make certain everything fits Set the top in place to locate and thread the lag bolt holes. While I had the top in position, I did its’ final sanding and oiling. The top is sanded through 320 grit. I used two applications of mineral oil; allowing each to soak in about a day. Then, I used one application of hot “Bumble Bee Wax”- a blend of mineral oil and bee’s wax. Once that cooled, I buffed it out with an old towel. A final dis-assembly; the maple shelves sanded through 320 grit; the poplar pieces sanded through 180 grit. All of the hardware was pre-drilled and pre-threaded using bee’s wax to lubricate the holes. The minister set a time and date to pick up the table and transport it to the church. It has to make the journey from south central PA to Ithaca NY. The day before he arrived, Mimi and I carried everything- except the top- to the carport and I did the final assembly. Due to the dimensions, the shelves had to be set in place during the assembly/glue up. That really added to the weight! The minister arrived right on time and we loaded the base and top into his van. The church members are going to do the final assembly and finishing on site. It was a long process and I was relieved that he was satisfied with the work. Even though we communicated via email and pictures, it is difficult to know what something is really like. Several days later, I received this picture I think the church members did an outstanding job painting and finishing the table. It looks right at home there in the kitchen. If you made it this far, thanks for following along. Also, thanks to John Moody for the advice on the butcher block top.
  7. Version 1.0.0


    This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use.
  8. View File Workbench Magazine Jan-Feb 1967 Playhouse Kitchen This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 04/28/2019 Category Wooden Toys  
  9. I recently bid a job to build in cabinets in a back kitchen of a house that was built in 1874. I bid the job way high because I really didn't want to do it. Unfortunately, the customer (who is a friend of mine) accepted the bid. The house has 10 ft. ceilings and the outside wall was out of plumb about 3/4" top to bottom. I custom built two 45" x 23 1/4" x 24 deep raised panel cabinets to go in a nook over the refrigerator, a 10" wide broom closet and built in the range. Here's the before pictures. Here's the after pictures.
  10. It is time to start planning to install a new kitchen floor. I will be removing the old ¾” ply underlayment and two layers of vinyl sheet flooring. I will still have the original ¾” ply subfloor which will not be removed. I believe I want to install a new ½” ply subfloor over the existing subfloor and a new ¼” lauan underlayment. The customer (my wife) has already purchased Armstrong Luxury Vinyl. Questions: What is needed to install the ½” ply subfloor to the existing subfloor? I know it is best to install it perpendicular to the existing subfloor. What is needed to install the ¼” lauan underlayment to the ½”subfloor? I assume I will install it perpendicular to the ½” subfloor? Danl
  11. My wife worked hard sorting through the boxes of porcelain tiles, from HD, so that we only used the “pretty” tiles. I wanted to have a “mirror image” corner and we did not want to have vertical gap lines near each other between the 2nd row and the decorative tiles. She also wanted some of the tiles rotated 45 deg. We used approx. 132 6” x 6” tiles and I had to cut all but 16 of them. Used 1/16 spacers. Yea it is complete! My wife is happy, so I am happy. Danl It
  12. My wife has finally found tile for the kitchen back splash which she believes she can live with. She did not want subway tile nor glass mosaic. That accounts for 98% of what is on out there for sale. My wife was wanting to have a 1/16 grout gap between the tile. It is my understanding that matching caulk is used between the tile and the counter top and between the tile and the wooden refrigerator panel. What gap is commonly used in these locations when 1/16 gap is between the tiles? I appreciate your help. Thanks in advance. Danl
  13. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    Below the bar area was a dead space the customer wanted me to take advantage of, so I cut in a door and I also installed a nice shelf inside as well. The Aztec style cut out is prevalent throughout the kitchen.
  14. My kitchen is now operational. 7 weeks. My wife and I did all of the work except for electrical routing/installation, flooring installation, and granite counter top installation. If you are an immigrant from the WOOD forum you know this kitchen project has had a few birthdays. Cabinet construction is cherry wood with birch pre-finished ply. 3/4" matl for the sides, top, and bottom. 1/2" matl for the backs. Finish schedule is one coat BLO, one coat garnet shellac 1-1/2 lb cut, and three coats Sherwin-Williams Sher-wood Kem Aqua clear finish medium rubbed. Full extension soft close drawer slides. Punch list: Complete base board installation Install crown molding Danl
  15. From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook

    I decided the space above the sink could use a shelf and I decided to use plumbing instead of normal brackets. A typical bracket would take up too much length not allowing clearance for my tall bottles. I used 2 1/2" floor flanges, 2 10" nipples and 2 end caps. Just cut a board to size and made a permanent home for a few items.

    © © Cindy Trine

  16. Jeff Branch just posted a free Sketchup plan for a kitchen cupboard- https://jeffbranchww.com/2017/08/01/free-woodworking-plan-build-a-modern-kitchen-cupboard/
  17. Hi everyone, I want to do a full kitchen remodel next year and want to start saving up, but I'm wondering how much I should save before spending money by calling a contractor.
  18. DRAGON1

    kitchen third

    From the album: 1960 retro kitchen

    1960 retro kitchen, everything built in. Heat under sink cabinet. Dishwasher built into island. Sink has touch on/off. hand painted mexican tiles on backsplash. All built in customers driveway and garage.
  19. After the mezanine deck and great room the kitchen was attacked next... something to keep in mind the woman of the house is barely 5' tall... There was nothing special about these cherry cabinets... pretty much routine builds... all the shelves are on easy close glides... same for the drawers.. this corner cab was the only difficult piece... nothing plumb/level/square by a wide margin... inches in just a few feet... if you look hard enough you can see the issues... slight of hand for the aesthetics... this island isn't special either... another ripped out page of a home magazine (here, this is what I want only different – got that a lot)and scaled for comfort for the woman of the house (WOTH) and to fit well into the space available... the floor was ripped up and all the joists were sistered and intermediate doubled joists installed to support the granite CT on the island... built the stools to fit the WOTH.. for regular sized mortals they feel funny... but her husband is 5'8'' and thinks they are just fine.. that is all that matters... because the WOTH was vertically challenged the bases of the cabs had pull out steps/step stools... now she could reach the uppers and use the sink in comfort... cook easier too... closer look/see... the flooring is cork and the original floor was not flat in the least... 2x6's @ 16OC and the crowns were alternated at random w/ 5 ply ½'' CDX for the deck... 2 joists were longitudinally cracked... can we say springy here??? all were sistered, additional joists to bring the spacing up to 8''OC and shims had to happen... 7ply AC 5/8 T&G for the new deck.. Cab bases were built and installed separate of the boxes to comp for the floor... layup to the walls was fun... the random lay of the crowns worked out to be a major issue all through this project... back-splash is Swanstone... best fix for the irregular walls we could come up w/...
  20. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    This image was taken from the family room looking into the kitchen. The long slender cabinets were built to sandwich the copper stove hood. The stools were bought by the customer, they were not made by me.
  21. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    The center island was built with open shelving, my customer wanted open shelving in much of the kitchen. They placed baskets on top of the shelves which I thought was a great touch. The top is 1 /12" maple butcher block purchased at the local hardwood lumber dealer.
  22. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    The buffet has book matched solid pine doors, the gussets in the corners of the door frames are walnut, and resemble Aztec architecture.
  23. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    These upper cabinets were built as three separate units, the little cubby's below are for wine. I installed 1/4" wire mesh in the doors to keep it rustic and my customer wanted to display the contents of the cabinets. There is also lighting installed at the top inside of these cabinets. You'll see in the corner there is also a little appliance cubby I built as well.
  24. From the album: Southwest Kitchen Cabinets

    This kitchen was made from solid pine and pine laminated ply, with walnut accents. This was a really neat project, the customer let me have a ton flexibility in the design of the cabinets, so I was able to inject some creativity into this job, and I had a blast. I will find more images!
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