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Curio cabinet build


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Thanks I will give that a shot.  Do you think I should make seperate blogs for Mortise and Tenon joint has been used for thousands of years by woodworkers around the world to join pieces of wood, mainly when the adjoining pieces connect at an angle of 90°. In its basic form it is both simple and strong. Although there are many joint variations, the basic mortise and tenon comprises two components: the mortise hole and the tenon tongue. The tenon, formed on the end of a member generally referred to as a rail, is inserted into a square or rectangular hole cut into the corresponding member. The tenon is cut to fit the mortise hole exactly and usually has shoulders that seat when the joint fully enters the mortise hole. The joint may be glued, pinned, or wedged to lock it in place">M&T joints and corrections.

Then how to properly prepare flat stock with machines  (Joint then plane then rip Plus 1/16" then plane to size.

Going back to the source board re joint the edge before ripping off another.

Then the best method to cut to size. (Cutting sled or mitre gage or shop saw).

 

 

For Mortise and Tenon joint has been used for thousands of years by woodworkers around the world to join pieces of wood, mainly when the adjoining pieces connect at an angle of 90°. In its basic form it is both simple and strong. Although there are many joint variations, the basic mortise and tenon comprises two components: the mortise hole and the tenon tongue. The tenon, formed on the end of a member generally referred to as a rail, is inserted into a square or rectangular hole cut into the corresponding member. The tenon is cut to fit the mortise hole exactly and usually has shoulders that seat when the joint fully enters the mortise hole. The joint may be glued, pinned, or wedged to lock it in place">M&T joints 

Make sure you have flat and square stock.

Mark the mortize and cut the mortise (mine wil show my DP attachment).

Measure with a calipers the location of the mortise and note that (it should be centered within .002.

Load a cross cut saw in the table saw.  

Set and lock the height exactly to correspond to the mortise measured dimensions.

Use a cross cut sled or mitre gage (verify it is squared) and cut the first wide and the corresponding short edge at the height of the tennon.

Turn over the work Adjust the blade to compensate and cut the other 2 sides.

Put tennon jig in the saw.

Confrim square and planar.

Move very slowly to the mortise side and leave it .002 to .005 heavy (tight).

Turn the wood over and adjust then cut the same as before.

Test the fitment in the mortise and against the overall placement in the mating peice  (should line up exactly).

 

Work around if you cut the tennon to thin (it should need a slight tap of a hammer to go in). It is slide in or falls in it is too loose.

buld it back up with cut offs of the same species and tune your tennon again.

 

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2 hours ago, Michael Thuman said:

Thanks all I will experiment with and overall blog then spit it out if required.

 

Given the detail you plan to provide, an advantage of creating the process in a blog it will be more readily visible and easier located than a thread (or multiple threads) here. While your thread(s) will always remain, the 'ole FIFO (First-In, First Out) applies. Eventually threads here roll off of the current page and keep moving backwards as new threads are created.

 

A personal blog stands alone. It makes it easier to point someone toward it rather than searching for a specific thread. My $.02

 

Regardless your decision looking forward to following along.

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