How many bowls have I done, and still have the same problem getting the bottom smooth without waves in it?

I smooth it with a bowl gouge and negative rake scraper. I sand with 80 grit. I scribble all over the bottom and sand again until all marks are gone.

I wipe on some thinner to see how the gloss might show me where it is still wavy. I repeat until it all looks OK. I sand to a grit suitable to apply a finish.

Then, I put on a finish, dull like danish oil or Odies, or a bit shinier like satin poly, and these waves show up as in the center of this small plate.

I need wisdom here to finally get more skillful on this one topic.

What is a sure fire way to get the bottom of a platter or bowl smooth clear to the bottom?

First off, it is a nice looking bowl!

I would first ask what size (wide) scraper you are using? If you have a skew, you could use it as a negative rake scraper. Also a straight edge across the bottom will help identify any ridges or valleys.

Thanks for this. My scraper is 1.5 inches wide, about as big as I could get, thinking that it would even things out better than a narrower scraper.

Typically, I don't make the bottoms flat, but kind of "slide" in from the sides in a very gentle arc. I try to find "fit" a bit with a curved

cabinet scraper and that helps but I still end up with my problems of "waves" between the sides and bottom.

I have a knife making friend and have talked with her about making a very wide negative rake scraper, yet there just has to be a smarter

way than what I am doing. I am sure that I just must be missing something.

The other thing I can think of is try using the tool rest as a guide when shaping the bottom. Hold the scraper firmly then slide it across the Bowl bottom surface keeping even pressure on the tool rest. Sorta like your hand/scraper are using the tool rest as a duplicating device- if any of that makes sense

And use a really light touch

Thanks for these initial thoughts.

BTW, it is made of "story wood", my favorite kind. It is from a church pew, to be returned to the donor.

Lew gave you some great advise. I would say to recognize the problem a small straight edge is best. I used to have problems with the center until I started using a Hunter #4 and approach from the lower side of center. On the size of your scraper the more important thing is the shape. Better flatness would be from using a square end scraper with a slight curve to the edge. Lew made the suggestion of using the toolrest, to do this set your grip on the tool so that you can rub your finger along the rest to get an even cut. Also might try setting the rest inside the bowl to give better support through the cut.

Have you tried just the bowl gouge without the scraper. I can get a straight cut with a bowl gouge floating on the bevel, if I use a scraper after it is not as nice.

Rusty, to do that do you need a steeper bevel on the gouge. I wouldn't be able to do that with the ones I have. Well, maybe on a platter, but not on a bowl.

3 hours ago, Fred W. Hargis Jr said:

Rusty, to do that do you need a steeper bevel on the gouge. I wouldn't be able to do that with the ones I have. Well, maybe on a platter, but not on a bowl.

I grind mine at 55 degrees with a relief on the bottom of the bevel. About the only bowl I can’t make the turn at the bottom is a dog bowl.

Thanks for the responses. I am watching a video that Lew suggests. That is also helpful.

One additional thing I am discovering is my poor lighting. Coming from the tailstock end, it

washes out any of the "waves". Adding or moving the light to come from above or the back

adds contrast.

I will consider a gouge with a more shallow bevel, making those last passes in one full swing.

I think that will make a significant difference. Being cheap, I try to do everything with my one

gouge, but it is time to do better, especially as I have worked up to 16-18 inch bowls and platters

where the "waves" seem to show up more.

@Bob Hodge Sent you a PM with a different video

Something I struggle with as well. Fortunately I don't a lot of bowls anymore and haven't a problem that for a while now! I prefer a bottom feeder rather than a scraper and Glenn Lucas taught me to check for flatness with that lathe off instead of running. You can feel imperfections you'd miss if the bowl is spinning. Another thing is not go for flat but rather a very gentle curve even in the bottom.

Edited August 3Aug 3 by Steve Krumanaker
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